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EllenGST's Profile

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Feedback on our Paris Trip

I'm glad you enjoyed my report - I worried that it would be too long, but know that I've enjoyed others' detailed reports.
I made the fruit salad with fruit purchased at the market that morning and the previous day. It was all so nicely ripe that I didn't add anything to it - simply let the fresh fruit flavors shine.
I love the Berthillon ice cream - especially the fruit flavors. They're not as creamy as some, but I think that allows the flavors of fruit to be dominant. It helps that I've been lucky to never experience the iciness that others complain about.

Aug 19, 2013
EllenGST in France

Paris - unusual salad green at Marche Maubert?

Thank you! I hope we find out what it is, it was very good

Aug 06, 2013
EllenGST in France

Paris - unusual salad green at Marche Maubert?

we're home from Paris for a week, and I've not been able to identify something I purchased at Marche Maubert for a salad. The greens (and darker leaves) were gorgeous the morning after a thunderstorm and rain, and there was one green I'd never seen before (I meant to take a photo of the salad I made, but of course, I forgot!) This particular green was very finely cut - sort of resembled dill fronds but closer. The flavor was slightly salty. It's not frisee/chicory or arugula - I know those. I doubt it was fennel - there was absolutely no anise flavor. The vendor just said it was "salade." Does anyone have any idea what this might have been?

We enjoy interesting salads and also garden, so I'd love to identify this and grow it.
thanks in advance,
Ellen

Aug 06, 2013
EllenGST in France

Feedback on our Paris Trip

First of all, I want to thank you all - those who replied to my questions before our trip, and those who have posted about food in Paris. I went armed with a long list of fromageries, boulangeries, marches, and restaurants that made our week in a Paris apartment fantastic!

Our first night in Paris was spent at Villa Beaumarchais in Le Marais. We dined at Le Bar Huitre, simply because it was the closest place to our apartment and we were a bit tired. The next morning we walked around - a lot - down a small side street where we found an artisan boulangerie with a wonderful baguette des graines. From there we headed to rue Rambuteau for Pain du Sucre. Also ran across Legay Choc, where we found some delicious little tarts. Then to rue Rivoli where we visited a fromagerie and charcuterie. My husband popped into a little greengrocer and bought some cherries and fresh apricots. All of this, with some bottle gazeuse comprised a wonderful picnic on the train to Germany, where one of our sons was marrying a German girl.

We returned to Paris in the late afternoon on Tuesday 7/23, for our apartment on rue de Navarre, just off of rue Monge. After 5 days in Germany (where moderation in food or drink was not the norm) we wanted a light dinner, so we walked to the end of rue Monge where we had a fabulous meal at Dans le Landes. Sardines rillettes and a passion fruit creme brulee were the high points of that meal.
Wednesday morning we visited Erik Kayser for croissants and more, followed by Marche Monge for fruit to make a breakfast chez nous.
Our almost 21 year old wanted to do the Eiffel Tower, so we purchased a 2 day Batobus pass for transport. The lines were outrageous, so did not ascend the tower. I'd left my list of restaurants at the apartment, so we headed away from the river until we found a place that appeared to have no tourists and where the diners all seemed content or better. The Suffren Bar/Brasserie did not disappoint.
Dinner that night was at Lilane - our 3rd time there, and it did not disappoint at all! My husband won the lottery - of the 3 plats he had the ris d'agneau. Lilane does sweetbreads very well! I had a beef dish with a mushroom lasagna - not very lasagna-like, but incredible with chanterelles! Our son had a veal dish that was also spectacular. At age 20 and a budding foodie, I'm not sure whether he was more impressed by the food or the the French women! Somewhere between all of these events we made a trip to Laurent Dubois - after that, I couldn't even think of buying cheese from any of the other shops on my list.

The next day's breakfast was from Maison Gregoire, and was followed by a visit of le Marche Maubert before the college student awoke. Off again for the Batobus in hopes that the lines at the Eiffel Tower would be shorter if we arrived earlier. (the kid really wanted to do this, and his father felt a need to atone for a tomahawk not purchased in Arizona years ago. Never mind that he would have used said tomahawk to murder his older brother, Dad felt a need to atone.) Lines were not as bad as we'd seen previously, so we made the ascent to the first stop - the summit was already at peak capacity. This time I had my list of restaurants and Paris Pratique with me, and realized Chez l'Ami Jean made a convenient stop on the way to Musee d'Orsay. What a lunch! 3 courses of mushrooms - the most tantastic mushroom soup ever, something salmon with a few mushrooms, and a rabbit stew. Dessert was creme brulee. After that lunch, our dinner was comprised of some cheese, fruit, baguette and bottle of wine at the apartment.
Friday was Maison Gregoire again, and lunch at Le Bonaparte in the St Germain du Pres area. Husband had a layered beet and goat cheese served over salad, I had salad nicoise (and was glad it did NOT have rice.) our son was diappointed with his Croque Monsieur (misunderstood his father's recommendation that this is a fairly safe thing if he was out on his own as a recommendation to have it at that time.) Friday night he had a picnic on the banks of the Seine with a friend who is a native Parisienne. We met a friend (his wife grew up in our town) and dined at Chez Clement. Not what I would have chosen - it wasn't horrid, but wasn't a high point of gastronomy. Not sorry for the experience - it's all part of education oneself about a particular city.
Saturday morning my stepsister and her family arrived from Cote d'Ivoire and from Virginia. We had a brunch for them - pastries from Erik Kayser and a fruit salad made from muskmelon, fresh apricots, cherries, white nectarines and currants. We didn't need lunch that day, but did have ice cream from Berthillon while walking around. Dinner for 6 of us was at L'Atlas - every bit as good as the recommendations, and the decor and dishes were spectacular.
We'd been warned that many restaurants close on Sunday, but not all bakeries or butchers. So, on Sunday morning we walked up the stairs across from rue de Navarre, and across Place Contrescarpe, and bought our morning croissants at Anthony Bosson, as well as a tiramisu framboise for dinner. Walked back down to rue Monge and stood in line at Boucherie de Tradition (corner of Monge & de Navarre) with the locals to buy 2 rotisserie chickens. Chicken and tiramisu were safely stored in the fridge, and we were off le Jardin du Luxembourg. I sat and painted, husband wrote in his travel journal. Son came along and found us, then they went off to purchase sandwiches from the vendor in the garden. The saucisson sec with butter on baguette was simple but delicious! Dinner for 6 was chez nous - chicken, roasted potatoes and a salad of the most fantastic mixed greens - purchased at le Marche Maubert on Saturday morning! Dessert of course was the tiramisu framboise. We also had more cheese from Laurent Dubois - the roquefort with quince paste was entirely too good!
After dinner, the young men went to Place Contrescarpe for beers, while the old fogeys headed to Cafe L'universel for jazz and cocktails.
On Monday, breakfast was again from Erik Kayser, where we also purchased 2 baguettes. Lunch was a picnic on the banks of the seine - leftover chicken with mesclun and olives on baguette. A little bit of cheese, and some cherries. After that we walked to Les Halles to explore and met up with my step-sister, her husband and son at Au Pied du Cochon - again not my choice but a favorite of my step-sister and her husband, and I had chosen L'Atlas as our other meal out together. As long as I was there, I braved the pigs foot. That was definitely a been there, done that experience (as was my husband's experience with St Anthony's temptation.) We had an early departure the next day, so breakfast was coffee and croissant at a cafe on rue Monge, and then we were off to the airport.

Although not all of our meals were fantastic, the overall experience was. We really enjoyed the taste of living in apartment, and experiencing the food of Paris almost as though we lived there.
I'm already planning the next trip - though we'll probably wait 2 years, as the 21 yr old has 1 1/2 more years of college.
Thank again to all for your help.

Aug 02, 2013
EllenGST in France
1

Restaurants in Paris

Hello again - first, I want to thank you all for your advice on the markets, boulangeries, fromageries, etc. I feel well prepared with your advice!

To recap - we are spending one night (17 juillet) in the Marais (villa Beaumarchais on the Bd Beaumarchais. I would appreciate recommendations (from my list, or others) for dinner that night.

The next day (Thursday) we take a noon train to Germany for a family wedding. I have read that food on the train is abysmal, and would appreciate recommendations for somewhere to pick up picnic food suitable for the train.

We return to Paris on 7/23, for a week in apartment off the rue Monge. We want some flexibility but are also prepared to commit to some reservations. Last year, in July, we were able to get last minute reservations - probably by dining early - at Lilane. I've put together a list of possibilities - enough to give us flexibility depending on where we are. Many of these are gleaned from Chowhound posts.

I have all accumulated in a spreadsheet with hours, full address, arondissment, type of food, etc as an easy reference for travelling.

Recommendations would be appreciated on which to make a priority, which need reservations, and which are likely to be a problem between 7/23 and 7/30. Many thanks again!

Middle Eastern:
l'Atlas (Blvd St Germain)
Chez Hamadi (rue Boutebrie)

Crepes:
Le Pot o Lait (rue Censior)
Little Breizh (rue Gregoire de Tours)

Cafes:
Cafe Bonaparte (St Germain de Pres) - had a very good lunch there last year
Le Procope (rue de l'Ancienne de Comedie, oldest cafe in Paris)
Cafe de la Nouvelle Mairie (rue Fosses St Jacques)

French or French Fusion
Chez Grenouille (rue Blanche)
Chez l'Ami Jean (rue Malar)
Dans les Landes (rue Monge)
Jardins d'Ivy (rue Mouffetard) - had a decent dinner last summer
Lilane (rue Gracieuse) had 2 very good dinners last summer
L'Epouvantail (rue Jarente)
Restaurant la Gaigne (rue Pecquay)
Ze Kitchen Gallerie (rue des Grands Augustines)

Wine Bars
Grains Nobles (rue Boutebrie)
Les Pipos (rue des Ecoles Polytechnique)
Rubis (rue de Marche St Honore)

Again - many thanks for your assistance - if you're evern in the Boston area or suburbs of Boston, I will try to return the favor.

Jun 25, 2013
EllenGST in France

First time posting - our 2nd trip to Paris

That sounds good! Le Lanne is very near our apartment, but I do want to try Laurent Dubois as well. I expect that week will be part of my osteoporosis prevention plan.

Jun 25, 2013
EllenGST in France

Do you wash your dishes before you place them in the dishwasher?

No - unless there's something dried on or really sticky (like rice) or really stuck on a baking dish. For ordinary meals, I often don't even rinse. Maybe 2-3 times a year I find something that doesn't come out clean.

We do have a relatively new - 10 years old - dishwasher. Our previous one required much more aggressive pre-treatment.

We also have a lot of things we wash by hand - some artisan pottery serving bowls and glassware other than our every day water glasses. I also don't

First time posting - our 2nd trip to Paris

Thank you! this makes a lot of sense - I remember one really gorgeous display of fruits and vegetables at Marche Monge - but the only thing we bought was a small box of raspberries. We will definitely check out the Marche Maubert.

Jun 24, 2013
EllenGST in France

First time posting - our 2nd trip to Paris

Thank you very much for the tips on the markets. To put things in perspective, at home we buy our fruit and vegetables at a permanent market that is know for being expensive but having the best quality.

For one week, expense is not going to break the budget - since you're on CH, my guess is that you don't find less quality at Maubert as compared to Monge?

Jun 24, 2013
EllenGST in France

First time posting - our 2nd trip to Paris

Thank you for the info on the markets. Marche Monge was so close to us last year - and my first experience with the Paris markets so it seemed impressive. We will probably shop there for our first day - we arrive Tuesday afternoon, and Marche Monge is open on Wednesday, Maubert not until Thursday. It is definitely good to know about others in case we are in other neighborhoods in the mornings.

and - thanks for the correction on Le Lann - it was late at night and very warm here when I was typing my post. I hope we will manage to try more than one cheese shop - with only one week in Paris, we can afford a little cheese every day.

We happened on Anthony Bosson on our 1st afternoon last year! Loved the way they wrapped our 2 little pastries in a pyramid for safe travel. We also tried Gregoire - and didn't understand why our hotel did NOT purchase from this bakery. We liked the hotel - but quickly stopped eating breakfast there!

This year we look forward to going out for un cafe while our son sleeps late, then going to the boulangerie to bring breakfast back to the apartment. (exception, that if he wants to see Notre Dame he MUST get up early or go without us.)

Thank you again for your advice!

Jun 24, 2013
EllenGST in France

First time posting - our 2nd trip to Paris

Apologies that I forgot to be more specific on our address. Last year's hote was on the corner of rue Monge. This year we're in an apartment on rue Navarre - 1 1/2 blocks away.

Thank you very much for the info on closing hours of the markets - I'll correct the closing hours on my list!

And we're definitely not planning on travelling all over Paris to shop - but want to be prepared to combine small quantity shopping with other activities if that suits the day's activities.

Thank you for the wonderful information - especially the tip about Dans Les Landes.

Jun 24, 2013
EllenGST in France

First time posting - our 2nd trip to Paris

I hope I can get a little critique and advice about some info I've put together for our trip - in a little over 3 weeks!

Last summer I was at last able to fulfill a lifelong dream to visit France. We had a wonderful first timers' experience - 3 days in Paris at L'Hotel St Christophe, in the Latin Quarter, Saturday train to Rennes in time to explore le marche while waiting for friends who teach on the Isle of Jersey to meet us. Then a week in a house in the tiny town of Roz sure Couesnon with views of Mont St Michel, 4 days on Jersey and back to Paris for 3 more days at the same hotel. We had many wonderful meals, some very acceptable meals and one that we laugh about to this day.

This July we will, again, be in Paris - timing constrained by our middle son's wedding in Germany. Our plans are: fly from Boston to Paris, arriving on 7/17. We spend one night at the Villa Beaumarchais (reviews seem to have worsened since I made the res, but it's only one night so we can deal.) The following day we train to Germany for the family festivities. We return to Paris on 7/23 to an apartment that is 1 1/2 blocks from L'Hotel St Christophe. We spend a week before returning home.

With an apartment, we hope to take advantage of the markets and food shops where we only browsed last summer. I like to plan thoroughly so that spontaneity doesn't cause disaster, so the places I've found to shop and eat are more than we could possibly do in 1 week - one can't always predict where one will be when hunger strikes! We are certain this won't be our last trip - though the next will probably NOT be in July. And, next time we can try to get to some of the places we don't manage on this trip.

We will have our youngest - a 21 (almost) yr old art student and budding foodie. We will meet up with my stepsister, her husband and son - about 25 halfway through our week. They have an flat 1km away and are more gourmand than gourmet.

With all of that - this is what I've found for shopping that makes sense with our known plans - we know we'll be doing some museums - Rodin and D'Orsay, and some exploring, as well as revisiting favorite spots from last summer - Jardin des Plantes and Jardin Luxembourg.

Markets - we know from last year that Marche Monge is very good and it's very nearby. Others that seem to be good depending on whether we're nearby when they're open
Marche Bastille (11e)
Marche Montorgeuil (2e, permanent market)
Marche Maubert (5e)
Marche Baudoyer (2e)

Boulangerie:
Maison Kayser - rue Monge
Phillippe Gosselin (St Honore or St Germain)
Le Boulanger de Monge
Boulanger L'Essential - we had baguette and pastries from them last year. I read that they were noted as 3rd best butter croissants this year - and they are not far from us.

Charcuterie
Oteiza - blvd St Michel
Bellotta Bellotta - rue Jean Nicot or rue de Seine
Verot - rue Notre Dame des Champs

Fromagerie
Christian LaLanne - rue Monge - 2 blocks away and on Ile St Louis
Fromagerie Trotte - rue St Antoine
Laurent Dubois - Blvd St Germain
Barthelmy - rue de Grennelle

Patisserie - I only have one recommendation so far
Carl Marletti

And, perhaps Le Grand Epicerie - rue de Sevres. Is this the one that used to be on Ile St Louis? A friend had asked me to pick up some of their violet sugar last year, and we were surprised that the store where she had shopped 2-3 years earlier was gone.

I also have a list of restaurants that are possible, but will post those tomorrow, as this list appears long enough.

Thank you (in advance for this, and in general for all the information I've already gleaned.)
Ellen

Jun 23, 2013
EllenGST in France