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Deborah McDonald's Profile

Salt of the Earth

examiner.com/pittsburgh, just posted the opening notice for SALT. I like this site, written by food writer Deborah McDonald, a former restaurant critic for In Pittsburgh and Pittsburgh Magazine. We like her style, and examiner's "Cheap Eats" is a fun ride.
Check it out and Cheers! to Kevin Sousa. Good luck, even from fans in Philly (who used to live in the Burgh.

LA Chowhound needs Pittsburgh help

You will be pleasantly surprised. A new tip. Poke your head into Braddock's (American Brasserie) which is in the Renaissance Hotel (107 Sixth St. downtown!!): this is a beautiful old spot, a mini-hotel with history that was a disco in the 80s, then a fine dining place, now trying to ditch old memories and get folks to stop in after games, in their jeans, and enjoy the marvels of an old hotel cum restaurant/bar. You can literally eat anywhere--in the marvelous lobby with mosaic ceiling, in the little bar, plug in your computer in a marble alcove and they'll bring your meal, fancy restaurant too! It' s so neat, and the food is good bordering on great without being too creative (it's only downfall)--but it works if you've got companions, work buddies, mom and or kids...and I like it myself. That said, you'll find more than you need right in what we call the "Cultural District" but get to the Strip (Pittsburgh's outdoor marketplace) and you'll direct yourself,. Nine on Nine would be my choice for dinner with your requirements in mind; lunch at Penn Avenue Fish Market funky funky funky, but the best fish sandwich EVER and a totally wild place. Here's a review I thought you'd like, but look for the guy who dons the orange fisherman's pants after a few glasses of wine, grab the table by the window and follow everyone else!
If you're into it, there' s a great review at pittsburghmagazine.com (go to "restaurants" and hit " Penn Avenue Fish Company" on the right.

If you're gonna explore further, that's a whole new story.
Try dinner at DISH, South Side (tacos for lunch there at Yo Rita's);
or go to Shadyside , the once "Haight Ashbury" of Pittsburgh, and eat at Girasole.
It's fun just to look around in this district. A great neighborhood bar in nearby Point Breeze is Point Brugge for the best mussels around. Unless you've already eaten some in the Strip.

Yo Rita, Check out these tacos (Pittsburgh, South Side)

Who knows why there's so little Mexican in the 'Burgh--Taco Bell, Chi Chi's or fine stuff...it is practically nil. There used to be a little place in Etna in the 80s that I still long for--it was a chef's hangout sort of place, the real stuff.

But rather than moan about the derth of Mexican in Pittsburgh, let me say to some of you writing about Yo Rita--Yo, it IS NOT MEXICAN, not meant to be. In it's prior incarnation it was so so Americanized Mexican (Iquana Grill). Current owner Jackie White had a brainstorm--what would a top notch chef do with a little neighborhood joint. She wanted to do something really dynamite for under $10, and as if the gods were with her, she found Kevin Sousa--who just left Red Room, a pioneering chef around town--and is opening his own place (SALT OF THE EARTH< PENN AVENUE IN JANUARY). Kevin took the bite--he was a little antsy to get back in a kitchen, and he loves a challenge. It started out that he would consult and help on a temporary basis, but he just told me he is the "Bill Fuller of Yo Rita" which means he will get the place on its feet, with some seriously fresh tacos--and stay on as council after he opens his place.

THE TACOS!!! A mere template for his creations--they buy them from Reyna's in the Strip, and then Kevin fills them glorious stuff. There's not a word for it--potato, avocado, black eye pea, mushroom, wild salmon (replaced by walleye), fresh water eel, shrimp, flank steak, chicken, duck confit. The new autumn menu is about to come out. All tacos are under $8, The ingredients are simply stunning, heady lettuce and cabbage (try making a taco with cabbage--has to be fresh--I'm a total convert!

He braises meats, makes divine sauces and chilis, uses fresh fresh veggies. So, it's in no way attempting to be authentic Mexican...it's just a little bar with "tacos" like you've never tasted before. He even does some molecular gastronomy.

The tortilla soup and a chop salad are delicious. So are margaritas and lots of fine tequilas.
There's nothing like it around here--and the prices are amazing. I can't wait until they start serving dessert. Meanwhile, go to Dish or the chocolate factory, or even Beehive for coffee or icecream (Dish is a high end choice, but treat yourself not that you've just spent $4 on the best taco you'll ever eat.

I'm hooked. The recession has been a catalyst for some of the best cooking I've ever seen--smaller plates, lesser prices. Great business idea...I may open my own place after all!

1120 E.. Carson ST. 412-904-3557 for Yo Rita

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Yo Rita
1120 E Carson St, Pittsburgh, PA 15203