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Restaurants in Shoreditch

Not been to 100 Hoxton, but the Hawksmoor Bar just down from Shoreditch High St in Spitafields comes recommended. Unlike the restaurant proper upstairs it's based around smaller plates and a more dirty / junk food theme, albeit very highly elevated. Fab cocktails and a great atmosphere, although it does get rammed so try to book (I'm not sure of they take bookings you see) or avoid peak times.

I's also suggest you have a look at Eyre Bros and The Tramshed in Shoreditch, the latter not being small plates as such, but does encourage sharing. Plus Duck & Waffle in the Heron Tower, not least for the fab design, view and versatile menu.

Do go to Koya, it's ace, but be aware there's Koya proper now and the new noodle bar next door. Koya still does noodles, but the specials plates, which are often only offered in small sizes, are getting better and better. The restaurant is basically dividing itself into noodles one side so it can focus on more inventive cookery on the other. Whilst in Soho you could also do worse than check out Duck Soup, which does a brilliant small plate menu based around seasonal British produce. Small plates, small restaurant though, so try to avoid peak times again.

about 15 hours ago
marcusj in U.K./Ireland

Please critique our dinner itinerary

Rasoi is great, but like a lot of Michelin restaurants there's a huge disparity in pricing between lunch and dinner. My advice would be to skip the latter and lunch there where you can get 4 courses (plus the usual Michelin fripperies and extras) for around £30. Trishna, another starred peer, or its brand new rave reviewed sister Gymkhana, come recommended and both do a similar deal that is even cheaper. And the tiffin lunch at Moti Mahal in Covent Garden is fantastic at approx £17; it's not starred but every bit as good and considered highly. Their 'make your own salad' at the start of the meal is worth the price of admission alone. Note, with the possible exception of Moti Mahal (it blurs the lines a bit), the above are fine dining examples of curry and are not 'traditional' in the sense of rice and a bowl of spiced, braised meat by the side. If you want that you may wish to consider the likes of Zing or Potli, both in Hammersmith or Veeraswamay in Piccadilly, which is absolutely beautiful inside.

Ledbury and RHR are both on the top of their game, Ramsey because Clare Smyth is arguably London's best female chef right now (he's never there these days). She's transformed the food there. However, I'd echo Zuriga's shout of Hedone, which is simply sensational. Sit at the counter over looking the kitchen and let them take care of you, Mikael Jonsson is perhaps the most passionate and knowledgeable foodie chef in the world (try and converse if he has the time) and serves the best sourced produce in the country. Don't miss scallops, beef or millefuille if they're on, the dessert's basically the same as Passard's version in L'Arpege. Amazing.

At the fine dining end I'm also a fan of Ducasse at The Dorchester. Avoid the tasting menus and plump for the 4 course a la carte, which at £105 is a relative bargain for a 3 star restaurant - note use of the word relative! Again sourcing is top drawer, there's luxury to be had in spades and the portion's are generous to say the least. Service positively purrs too.

It's not open yet, but will be by the time of your arrival, so I can happily suggest Simon Rogan of L'Enclume in Cumbria's arrival at Claridges. If you don't know L'Enclume Google it and all will become clear. The hype is very much justified. Booking now would be essential I expect!

Another scorching hot new opening from one of Britian's most cutting edge chefs that may not have hit your radar is Nuno Mendes at the Chiltern Firehouse. I've not been yet, but all are raving about it from critics to bloggers alike and I've eaten enough of the man's food to know he can cook the balls off anything.

Finally, Harwood is fab, but to break things up how about a short train ride out to Marlowe to the Hand & Flowers, Britian's only 2 star gastropub? A) Marlowe's worth a look as a quintessential British town in it's own right and makes for a lovely day, plus B) Tom Kerridge's food is worth the pilgrimage. It's a proper old pub too and when I say old I mean old, it's Tudor with all the low ceilings, exposed beams and wonky walls you'd expect and want. A delightful experience. Again, this one's booked months in advance so get on it if you do decide to add it to the itinerary.

Happy munching!

Mar 25, 2014
marcusj in U.K./Ireland

Meal of the Year, 2013 - what's yours?

L'Enclume
Eleven Madison Park
Hedone
Hand & Flowers

And then it's a fifth place tie between Le Gavroche, Trishna and the Princess Victoria (Uxbridge Rd), the latter being a seriously under-rated gastropub with amazing sourcing and execution.

Dec 03, 2013
marcusj in U.K./Ireland

Another NYC addition to London - Shake Shack coming to town....

Kavey, I don't know what process they use for the custard but it is soft, rich and of very good consistency. There wasn't an ice crystal in sight on my last tasting. I actually consider this a much stronger offering to their burger if I'm honest.

With regard to those said burgers, I think we really need to distinguish between the different types. Brits may be shocked by how thin the In'n'Out / SS style is. If you don't have a double at either I think the overall bun balance falls apart. Personally, I much prefer a thicker patty which can be served a little pink , which is why I rate the other British providers I mentioned earlier. Each to their own though.

Nov 24, 2013
marcusj in U.K./Ireland

Another NYC addition to London - Shake Shack coming to town....

Apparently Shake Shack are using British meat.

However, I don't think it's all that, not least because it's really expensive here. It seems to be bang on a £ for $ equivalent. The burgers are very much in the style of In N Out, ie a thin patty, so you have to order a double to get the full - or rather, any - impact, which is £7. Fries £3. Frozen custard (which is very good I admit) another £3. Drink £2-odd, thus £15 is well and truly gone for very little.

I know burgers are a very subjective thing and there are many variables, but personally I think the Meatmarket/Liquor/Mission group / Tommi's and Patty & Bun all have these new US imports beaten hands down. I am sure many American's will be up in arms at this statement, but you're being owned right now.

Nov 14, 2013
marcusj in U.K./Ireland

solo bar dining in London

L'Atelier Joel Rubuchon is very good if you're on your own (and is open Sundays). Similarly try the 'bar' around the kitchen at Hedone. Bit of a trek out to Chiswick, but worth it none the less.

You could also consider Kitchen Table out back at Bubbledogs.

Sep 14, 2013
marcusj in U.K./Ireland

[Bray, Berkshire] Waterside Inn

There are a lot of intern chefs at The Fat Duck who assist with the intricate mise en place, rather than the cooking, but not so much the front of house where the direct customer contact demands professionals who know what they're doing at 3 star level.

Sep 14, 2013
marcusj in U.K./Ireland

[Bray, Berkshire] Waterside Inn

I'm not entirely sure service is the issue here. Whether you add 12-15% on, even if it's done automatically, what people seem to forget, or get blinkered about is these UK restaurants source the same ingredients as their peers in France, yet charge 50-75% of the price.

The Waterside and Fat Duck, whatever you think of their styles of food, also have some of the highest levels of staffing in the UK, equivalent to that of their over-the-channel peers. We actually should be thankful that all our UK 3-stars haven't yet caught up with their European cousins. Consequently, I think the service is actually relatively trivial in context.

And here's another, almost all 3 stars in France charge you for one bottle of water and gratis the rest. No so here. If you're a table of 4 you can therefore drink you're difference in service charge.

The bottom line is just pay close attention to all the possibilities, but ultimately thank your stars about the kinder UK price points.

Sep 13, 2013
marcusj in U.K./Ireland

Little Social/Social Eating House/Galvin la Chapelle/Alyn Williams at the Westbury/Murano thoughts or other options? [London]

If it isn't too expensive Ducasse at The Dorchester usually has tables and has really come into it's own after a shakey launch. And it would provide that special occasion feel. The pastry chef who has been there from the start has to be amongst the best in London, the soufflés are incredible.

Sep 03, 2013
marcusj in U.K./Ireland

Laguiole knives in London

I know this may sound crazy, but have a look around TK Maxx or their Home Sense subsidiary. It's a gamble but they frequently have Laguiole knives in and you'll get a bargain to boot.

Aug 29, 2013
marcusj in U.K./Ireland

Dog friendly Edinburgh?

OK, I know there are countless Edinburgh threads, and I've been there umpteen times myself and wouldn't normally ask as would head straight for the usual suspects, however...

I'm passing through on the way to the Highlands on a Sunday and Monday in November, but will have the dog with me this time. I've ascertained Scan & Scallie, Maison Bleue and Bon Vivant are all pet-freindly, but are there any other gastro pub or restaurant doggy sympathisers of note to consider? I know a few Edinburgh residents post here regularly and am wanting to be sure I've left no stone unturned.

Thanks in advance for any advice.

Aug 29, 2013
marcusj in U.K./Ireland

Little Social/Social Eating House/Galvin la Chapelle/Alyn Williams at the Westbury/Murano thoughts or other options? [London]

I know you mention your lunches are sorted, but have you considered Ducasse or Le Gavroche? Their £55 / 60 set lunches (which inc wine) are phenomenal and you still get all the amuse, mignardises, petit four knobs and whistles that set them apart. Same is true of Wareing and The Square as it goes.

I've not done Social Eating yet, but I did do Pollen St the other day on a la carte and it was great. Stylish and clever theatrics with every course that made for a really great experience.

Murano is also fab. Beautiful food that isn't overworked or fiddly and would undoubtedly please your mum by the sounds of it.

Aug 29, 2013
marcusj in U.K./Ireland

Ledbury or Hedone???? [London]

This is sooooooooo true Phil. Was totally underwhelmed by Hedone not long after it first opened, the execution was undoubtedly questionable. I've got to take it all back; I returned for the first time last month and it blew my mind. Was it on this board someone reported there's isn't a chef in the kitchen from anything less than a 2 star now? Either way, it's brilliant. Am still dreaming about the whole king scallop (the biggest I've ever seen) with the orach spinach.

It's also developed a really relaxed neighbourhood feel befitting it's Chiswick location. I hope it stays that way when the inevitable bubble bursts and demand far out strips supply.

Aug 23, 2013
marcusj in U.K./Ireland

FT's "Five of the best: dry gin martinis in London"

I'm sure Rules is as good as ever, although it should be noted their former head barman (I forget his name), who was widely credited with the recent re-vamp of their cocktail menu, has just moved over to Balthazar, so assume the booze there to be rather splendid as well!

Jul 25, 2013
marcusj in U.K./Ireland

London- How would you have handled this?

Yes, Harters has this exactly right. Standard practice in good restaurants is to apologise profusely, offer some form of discount and then ask the guest to submit their dry-cleaning bill afterwards, either by post, email or in person.

Jul 12, 2013
marcusj in Not About Food

In London for 4 nights this weekend - pls review our food itinerary!

I know you're going to PSS, but their newly opened Soho outpost of Social Eating House has an upstairs bar doing some VERY innovative cocktails. Def worth considering for Sat evening. I believe there's some interesting bar food if you fancy a nibble too. I'd also suggest popping round the corner to Yauatcha, where not many know you can sit at the bar and sample their ace concoctions; all are on that Asian influenced tip so can make a nice alternative when you're mixing-up the mix-up if you get my drift.

I'd echo brokentelephone and def do Trishna over Providores, especially at lunch where they do a fantastic multi-course offering at a very, very reasonable price. I've been on a bit of an Indian jaunt lately and this is one of, possibly, the best in London. I really like the interior too, it's a bit like an Asian Noma.

Oh, and it's prob worth adding that Borough is also at the base of The Shard. I've not been but both Hutong and Obelix have bars that are open all day and - assuming you don't want to eat there - worthy of itinerary consideration. It also gets you half-way up The Shard for free!

Jul 11, 2013
marcusj in U.K./Ireland

Interesting London eating

I just did lunch at Cinnamon Soho and can't recommend the £7.50 thali lunch enough. Very impressive. Prices go up quite a bit outside of the lunch set, but well worth considering. The cooking and spicing was spot on.

Jul 09, 2013
marcusj in U.K./Ireland

Interesting London eating

I'm sure others can elaborate, but my central London pound for pound favourites are:

Koya or Tonkotsu in Soho for home made soba and ramen respectively.

Bar Shu off Shaftesbury for spicy, hot Szechuan.

Dumpling Legends in China Town for dim sum (the Michelin starred Yauatcha in Soho is also good but slightly more expensive). And if you haven't done it yet, getting abused by the waiters over a £5 plate of noodles at the infamous Wong Kei is a student / young person must.

Meatmarket or the just opened Shake Shack in Covent Garden for burgers and the like.

Finally, staying in Cov Gdn, it's a wee bit posh but Moti Mahal does a fantastic £16 Indian tiffin lunch. The unadvertised 'make your own' salad at the start is worth the price of admission alone. Otherwise head down Long Acre to Dishoom for affordable curry in a very funky setting.

Jul 05, 2013
marcusj in U.K./Ireland

Birmingham - Alternatives to Purnell's

Bugger, massive pressure now! I hope Mr. Turner delivers. Enjoy!

Jun 19, 2013
marcusj in U.K./Ireland

Conde Nast's Take on Best New London Restaurants

It's a surprisingly good list. Nice mix of cutting-edge with comforting food you may want to eat.

Conde Nast was always related to paying for listing though. It would be interesting to know if that's the case here...

Jun 19, 2013
marcusj in U.K./Ireland

Birmingham - Alternatives to Purnell's

I've not done Simpsons, but I thought Turners superior to Purnells. Nothing wrong with Purnells (and to be fair, their wine list and venue is much better), I just thought Turners dazzled more in terms of the food. It's a bit of a quiet achiever for my money and deserves wider recognition.

Lasan's very good, but you're right, it ain't cheap, the mains make some of London's starred Indian's appear reasonable, which is really saying something. £22 for just the curry before rice or any side is eye watering. Definitely worth a go, but just be aware of the cost before hand as it can be an unexpected distraction. That soft shell crab starter they do is brilliant to be fair.

Jun 18, 2013
marcusj in U.K./Ireland

Seeking Feedback on June London Dining Itinerary

Yes, I have to admit I wasn't at all convinced when I first went not long after it opened, but it was light years better. Twice as many chefs in the kitchen now with execution to match (I think I read they've all come from 2 / 3 stars). Highlight was probably the best - and biggest - scallop I've ever eaten with a purée of Italian spinach, but it was all spectacular. It was 2 stars all day long in my book.

I happily stand corrected from my first visit.

Jun 16, 2013
marcusj in U.K./Ireland

Seeking Feedback on June London Dining Itinerary

On the Sunday you could try L'Atelier Joel Robuchon (2 star French), Hawksmoor (steak), Balthazar (trendy faux French brasserie), Delaunay (same-ish, but a bit more Austrian) or Bar Shu (Sichuan). All have 7 day openings with fairly long hours (I think).

Of your gaps, my best meals of late have been at Pollen St Social, Trishna and Hedone. The latter is a way out at Chiswick, but well worth the effort, it's developed into one of the capital's best restaurants and seems set for further gastro greatness. Not that it's without support, but go now as I sense the bubble is about to well and truly burst on this one; it crashed in to the top 100 of the world's top 50 restaurants this year and it's trajectory seems assured.

Similarly to Darroze, the set lunches at both Le Gavroche and Alain Ducasse offer phenomenal high-end value, although to be fair to their peers, you can find a competitive lunches at all the fine dining gaffs, so it's actually a case of take your pick.

Hix vs Rules is interesting. Hix has slightly better food in a very trendy, contemporary setting, whilst Rules is obviously steeped in heritage with an old world feel. In the context of all else you're going to visit this week it will probably offer better variety. You could always do Rules on Sunday and book something else for the Friday of course...

Are you doing the Kitchen Table at Bubbledogs? If not and you're out front, take note that although it's a really fun place, it's probably better described as more of a champagne bar that serves hotdogs, rather than a meal in the traditional sense. I'd treat it more as a snack option or a filler on those days where you're looking to take your foot off the gas a little.

Finally, staying with lighter, cheaper alternatives, Tonkotsu (ramen) and Koya (Soba) in Soho are brilliant. Both make their own noodles and offer sensational cooking. It's just a shame about their ever-increasing, communal seating policy!

Happy eating!

Jun 15, 2013
marcusj in U.K./Ireland

Dinner in London this Sunday

Alas John, I do not.

I'm sure they'd share though if you gave them a call or gave it a whirl on your next London jaunt. Definitely worth finding out though as it's a seriously good product.

Jun 15, 2013
marcusj in U.K./Ireland

Dinner in London this Sunday

The Malt House, Claude Bosi's latest gastro-pub in Fulham is well worth a shout. They've opened it fairly softly to date without shouting too much so tables seem to be widely available.

Marcus McGuiness, Claude's long time head chef from Hibiscus, has been installed at the stoves and it shows. It's brilliantly re-invented, contemporary gastro grub with Michelin execution.

The beef for their Sunday roast comes from the same Hibiscus supplier in the Lakes and is finished on one of those fancy Japanese ceramic BBQ's. I have to say it's probably the best roast I've ever had. Not overly cheap at £18, but you undoubtedly get what you pay for.

Don't be surprised if this place joins The Harwood (which is coincidentally round the corner) on a star come October...

Jun 15, 2013
marcusj in U.K./Ireland

what happened to j sheekey?

I think the model of a good all round restaurant that isn't chef driven is far more accessible for most people and probably the reason why they endure.

Another restaurant that falls into the 'Ivy' ilk is the recently opened Balthazar (Careing again). Interestingly they have Robert Reid in charge of the stoves who was MPW's head chef at The Restaurant and Oak Room when they held 3 stars. That man can seriously cook.

Jun 08, 2013
marcusj in U.K./Ireland

what happened to j sheekey?

Actually Conran's empire was bought by a company called D&D who have - to give them credit - managed to maintain and retain all the venues he established in the 90's; a remarkable achievement when you consider how many other high-profile restaurants and chefs have come and gone over / within the period.

Jun 07, 2013
marcusj in U.K./Ireland

what happened to j sheekey?

It was a bit like The Ivy before Corbin & King re-invented that; a famed establishment that was deemed to have gone past its sell-by date. They replicated the model basically and were the ones responsible for the way it currently looks today.

Mark Hix was the executive head of the whole group when Corbin & King had it. They all went their separate ways when that got sold (although Mark did stay on for a wee bit to oversee the transition I think). C&K went on to launch the Wolesely, Delauney, Zedel and, most recently, Colbert, whilst Mark has his Hix venues and the Tramshed in Shoreditch.

Careing has his hand in just about everything these days. The latest push seems to be the rapid expansion of the Bill Granger chain, 'Bills'.

Jun 07, 2013
marcusj in U.K./Ireland

Mistake in Jermyn Street, London.

Robin - what size was your glass of wine? All West End restaurants work on 3xcost + VAT so if you were on 250ml measures that would be about right.

As for the steaks, were they sirloin, fillet etc? Ginger Pig is over £40 a kilo for fillet over their butchers counter now an not much less for sirloin (just a guide). Standard steak measure is 300 gms / 10oz. Apply the rule of 3 mark-up again and do the maths...

Bottom line - a la carte, luxury ingredients cost.

Yes, the Gavroche lunch is belting value, but check the menu - it's cheaper cuts and simpler processes which is how they make it work.

Jun 06, 2013
marcusj in U.K./Ireland

what happened to j sheekey?

J Sheekey was re-opened by Corbin & King around 1999 / 2000 when they had the Ivy and Le Caprice; nothing else.

It was sold at some point in the mid-noughties to Richard Caring's now vast - and ever expanding - empire. Given consistency is easier to monitor and administer at a more intimate level there's a very good chance this may have something to do with it.

Jun 06, 2013
marcusj in U.K./Ireland