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The rest of our trip report (Paris + Burgundy)

actually we have to thank you :) the mains didn't interest us much and we were glad to have read from yr past post that the lamb shoulder was good.

Nov 27, 2013
grovina in France

The rest of our trip report (Paris + Burgundy)

At ma cuisine, we felt the sauce on the beef bourguinon was something special. The rest of our dinner was okgood but nothing that blew our minds.

Went by Le P'tit Paradis to check out the menu too. Very small interesting looking place. Too bad our trip was too short to fit it in. hopefully, fingers crossed, there will be a next time for us.

Nov 26, 2013
grovina in France

The rest of our trip report (Paris + Burgundy)

You are absolutely right JT. But we felt we had to take some blame as we didn't know what "rémoulade" was :) Plus the waiter described it as "celery vegetables, green apples" - so was expecting something sharp, salady, refreshing.

But that all said, the dish wasn't very tasty even when taken as a slaw.

Nov 26, 2013
grovina in France

The rest of our trip report (Paris + Burgundy)

Spring, Premices, Pierre Sang and Le Cinq came out tops. Mr Desnoyer oozes charm. Lazare was fun but the food not quite our thing. Trip report as below. Thanks CHers!

Day 1
http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/9225...


DAY 2

SPRING (dinner
)Very nice progression (missing a lot these days but spring has that).
Scallops with cauliflower (best scallop dish we had this trip, the rest poor – what’s up Paris?) And don’t miss the wine pairing! It’s awesome.

DAY 3

CHEZ L'AMI JEAN (lunch)
7 huge courses for ONE mini degustation was more than enough food for two of us. But after serving DH’s main of roasted veal chop, the kitchen gave him 3 extra courses - including a salmon, palombe and creme brulee. When riz au lait finally came, we were beyond stuffed. As you can see, Chef Jego took real good care of us.

(Too full for dinner)

DAY 4 - Burgundy

LE CELLIER DE VOLNAYSIEN (lunch)
The simplicity of this restaurant was much welcomed after 3 days of non stop eating. Though it's my first time having oeuf meurette (love it, yum) I believe this is a nice, solid version.

MA CUISINE (dinner)
Food fatigue was beginning to set in - initially decided not to order the beef bourgignon but had a change of heart when we saw it at the next table. It was gleaming – like black gold! The sauce coated the meat beautifully, but the beef was not as tender as expected. Still, since other dishes we had were pedestrian, I say head straight for the Beef Bourgignon if dining here.

DAY 5 - Burgundy/Paris

AUPRES DU CLOCHER (lunch)
Under-delivered a little (when it came to the mains) but still generally good.

Duo of foie natural and with pinot – v good. Protein mains superbly cooked (kept all the juices intact ) but marred by too much going on in the plates. Nice ending with famous mousse d'époisse and well-conceived desserts

PREMICES (dinner)
Interesting that it is such a lean outfit - manned by just 2 in kitchen and 1 FOH.

Seared foie gras cooked PERFECT – wished they got rid of the pumpkin mash under it. DH’s pigeon was stunning. (I want to eat it again!). Scallop done two ways was a lil disappointing. Scallop lacked taste and one of the mash was too sweet. But overall, highly recommended. Go!

DAY 6

HUGO DESNOYER (lunch)
Mr Desnoyer is so charming! We also learned an important lesson that day. Ordered a Faux fillet for one and asked for “medium rare” but it turned out medium. Apparently I should’ve asked for saignant. They graciously replaced it and Mr D even treated us to dessert. DH’s tartare au Couteau was ok, but we preferred the steaks.

(Too full for dinner)

DAY 7

JACQUES GENIN (“lunch”)
Started the day with Pierre Herme Croissants – serious yum. Trooped to JG and ordered the praline mille feuille but I think chocolate shd be better. And do not, in the world, miss the tart citron!

LAZARE (dinner)
Somewhat disappointing. Started off nicely enough at the bar with a great terrine but went downhill. Moved to tables and maybe our fault with ordering and limited understanding of the French menu but our starters were uninspired (celeriac “coleslaw” and deviled eggs). Mains felt heavy. But restaurant had great vibes. Fun, busy place.

DAY 8

LE CINQ (170e autumn lunch)

So 11 nov was a bank holiday (we didn’t know) and to our horror, the 110e set lunch wasn’t available. We stayed and boy, no regrets. Nice progression to the meal (impt) and yes, we asked for the famous lamb shoulder and got it. Special mention to the pre-dessert of grapefruit sorbet tt looked like an onsen egg- its bitterness and citrus flavours just THE THING to reset yr tastebuds. Brilliant.

If we were to nit-pick, only the scallop sashimi on one of the dishes was pretty tasteless, but nonetheless fresh. Oh, and we bumped into Jonathan (the sommelier at Spring) having lunch there on his off day!

It was a wonderful trip. Thanks once again to u guys for helping make our trip a success. We hope that our report can help others in their planning.

Nov 25, 2013
grovina in France

PARIS + BURGUNDY PLAN (and some Questions)

Oh yes, the wine bar looked fun and casual. Everyone seemed to be having a great time. So if anyone needs to satisfy the Frenchie curiosity, I think heading there might be a better idea.

Nov 20, 2013
grovina in France

PARIS + BURGUNDY PLAN (and some Questions)

I believe too that food here shd be better in the past. It's a shame we did not enjoy it but we are sure there are others who enjoyed it. Paris has so many interesting choices that all I can say is perhaps Frenchie need not be such a must do for people planning their trip.

Nov 19, 2013
grovina in France

Pierre Sang Boyer Question

Hi traveller27, we recently went to the 12pm seating and did not need to queue. you can read the report I posted right here :) http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/9225...

Nov 19, 2013
grovina in France

PARIS + BURGUNDY PLAN (and some Questions)

Thank you to everyone on chowhound who gave us the most awesome advice for our trip. The thread's OP, cyberk13, is actually my husband - who has been absolutely snowed under with work since we came back. I thought I will help him pen down the beginnings of our (long) trip report.

DAY 1- MONDAY
Reached our apartment on Ile st Louis at about 4pm from CDG. Settled down and dashed out for our first reunion with Paris food. First stop: Pain de Sucre for croissants. We were not aware that there were 2 parts to Pain de Sucre - the Patisserie and the Boulangerie. and from the direction we were walking, we saw the patisserie first.

Walked in - but oops, no croissant. Instead we were surrounded by colourful rows of macarons and equally stunning cakes. I thought Pain de Sucre displayed their products like Pierre Herme (croissants in one lonely corner like in the rue bonaparte store) and that they had sold out.

Slightly disappointed, we eyed a cake topped with delicious looking figs. We are here already, aren't we? Cant walk away empty handed. We were about to get it packed when I tot I will just ask about the croissants. Server pointed "Next door"

How overjoyed we were! Scooted off next door. Everything looked really gd but we resisted and bought a normal petit and a chocolat croissant.The petit was gd,with its butteriness really standing out. I liked it but we've still got a list to try out

Our dinner reservation was actually 930pm Frenchie.The plan was to go grab a wine and small snack at Verjus wine bar but we were so caught up walking around that we reached Verjus at roughly 10minutes to 7pm. Too bad, it was filled to the brim already. The bar menu sounded nice and lite though, which would have been a nice prelude to dinner.

FRENCHIE - by far the most disappointing meal we had on this trip. Started with a shared foie gras torchon (supplement 16E). Nice and smooth. I thought it was lovely. Also my favourite part of the entire meal. The accompanying warm bread basket was tasty but couple of pieces were burnt. I happen to like burnt edges but not everyone does.

On to the entrees:

Him: 'wild mushroom, quail, chestnuts – perfectly cooked piece of quail and great visual presentation. He thought the best dish of the night.

Me: Scallop, parsley, porkbelly, radish - The nice sweetness you look for in a dish like this was lacking. Parsley sauce and use of lemon was tad overpowering.

Mains:

Him: Veal, trumpet mushrooms, cauliflower, - trumpet mushrooms were over salted.

Me: Stripe bass, carrots, cape gooseberry, hispi cabbage - it was okay.

Desserts:

Him: Salted butter caramel, peanut, chocolate - I did feel this was better than the other dessert.

Me: Tapioca, mango sorbet, pineapple - reminded me of this common HK dessert "mango pomelo sago" we have in asia. I actually prefer the HK version which has the sharpness and bitterness of pomelo.

Overall disappointed, esp with all the anticipation we had for frenchie.

Damage - 2 pre fix dinners + Foie Gras (adtl 16E) + 2 glasses of wine = 142E

side note: Frenchie wine bar looks happening! maybe that will be a better place to check out?

DAY 2 - TUESDAY
The plan was to go to Marche Maubert Mutualite in the morning but the rain was pretty heavy. Scrapped the plan for another day and decided to grab coffee instead. Headed to Telescope which was such a cute lil place. Had a nice chat with the owner who told us to go check out La Buvette.

PIERRE SANG lunch. We opted for freestyle 4 course pre fixe for one of us, while the other had the 2 course. We will share dessert and cheese course.

We started off with this very tasty thick crusted bread and a messy scoop/slab of butter. The butter was superb with the bread. Yummy start.

Next came the amuse bouche:
Tiny little clams with a mousse of aubergine and tiny brocolli bits, topped with smoked haddock foam, - a great play of textures, flavours to tease yr palate.

Starter:
slow poached egg resting atop a deep blood sausage sauce, topped with crunchy kimchi - absolutely delicious. Plate licking good.

Main:
A lamb stew-like dish with sweet caramelized onions, cabbage, topped with fresh (spinach?) leaves and a big piece of chorizo. Visually beautifully to look at, oh so colorful, with nice rich flavours that didn't feel too heavy.

Dessert + cheese:
Pistachio cake with lavender ice cream, mascapone, apple sauce, pomegranate - again, the balance of flavours were commendable. (sorry did not note the cheese)

And the best part?
Damage: One 4-course, One 2-course, 3 glasses of wine = 75E (great value!)

Will not hesitate to return.

After lunch, we did dORsay and for dinner, we have a 930pm rez at Spring . The museum closes at 5pm and we did a fun Pastry spree leading us back in the direction of our apartment. In this order:

Picked up a demi size traditional baguette from Philippe Gosselin near dOrsay.

A mini Brioche Feuilletée ( i love this!!!) from La Patisserie des Reves

A triangular shaped pastry/cake made of pistachio, hazelnut, praline, chocolate from Un Dimanche.

All very very nice and a reminder of why we had to come back to Paris just to eat... next up Spring.

(to be continued with (hopefully)shorter entries)

Nov 18, 2013
grovina in France

Paris and the Dordogne in late October

if you order the lamb shoulder, a couple must have it? how was the hare royale then?

Oct 24, 2013
grovina in France

Recommendations on bars that serve food?

Thanks to everyone for your wonderful recs - it has been great hearing everyone's favourites. I will report back on my food trip in paris as soon as i can :)

Oct 24, 2013
grovina in France

Recommendations on bars that serve food?

oh goodie. we plan on going to Hugo Desnoyer already - so if tartare is worth it there, he can order it then. please let us know about yr trip there if possible. thank you in advance.

Oct 24, 2013
grovina in France

Recommendations on bars that serve food?

Thanks lemarais for the recc. Now you mention steak tartare. My husband is hell bent on finding the "best" while in paris. So far I am wholly in charge of our paris menu (haha) so if you know where is the best, I may juz swop one of our restaurant choices for the best steak tartare. Does hugo desnoyer serve it in any case?

Oct 23, 2013
grovina in France

Recommendations on bars that serve food?

Hmm..agree I may steer clear from Eiffel area and head elsewhere more interesting.

Ok this may be an extreme but I am thinking of doing a bar hop thingey between Braisenville, La Guepe and la Cantine de la Cigale (or juz 2 out of 3) I checked google maps and seems they are 15 min apart. I want to sample one or two things and move on. It will also be on a Saturday night. Is this crazy/feasible?

About Bercy on Sundays, juz read JT's blog on Lazare and hmmm, Im thinking of travelling there after Bercy for an early-ish dinner since I only plan to have pastries at Jacque Genin and other pastries for my 'other' meal after 7 days of eating. And it seems like they have a wide enough menu, not to mention fun lookig one, to cater to whatever I'm feeling that day/time. What do you guys think.

Oct 23, 2013
grovina in France

Recommendations on bars that serve food?

Yes. The chance to try a variety of dishes. I think for a tourist it will make even more sense since our time in Paris is limited. However if the bars are all popular then it may be hard to get in easily. Which brings us back to square one, the tourist quest to find the very 'best''

That said, I definitely find it exciting to find places like la cantine de la cigale and Braisenville being found on this board. I think we need to eat at such places!

Oct 20, 2013
grovina in France

Recommendations on bars that serve food?

Lol, Thanks in advance parnassien. Looked at my itinerary and it is likely I need to find a place after being in the area of:
1) 7th Eiffel
2) 18th Montmartre
3) lastly, gonna be in the 12th after my visit to musee art forain (note this will be a Sunday).

I don't mind traveling on the metro to get to good food. So don't need to be confined to the 7th/18th/12th. So long as it is in the direction back to my apartment, not away fr it will b ideal. anywhere near my apartment at the ile St. Louis is cool too

Oct 20, 2013
grovina in France

Recommendations on bars that serve food?

Okay wow Braisenville looks like a place we will like. Did a rough scan on the internet and the small plates look serious yum. Any must haves there? yeah , how come no one ever talks about it?

Oct 19, 2013
grovina in France

Recommendations on bars that serve food?

Thanks to all for weighing in. Many many great recs there thank you.Yes, we were looking for anything light, be it charcuterie n cheese or small plates - not wanting to be confined to the standard course items.

A convivial fun atmosphere with good wine and not too filling food ... Er perhaps something like a San Sebastián pintxo bar( except they usu only have basic wines)?Won't say no to a good charcuterie board Would love to try natural wines for the first time as well

I must say I'm not too sure of the exact differences in what Parisians define as bars with food. So noob question say something like dans les landes be defined as...

Oct 18, 2013
grovina in France

Recommendations on bars that serve food?

For my upcoming trip to Paris, me and my husband are planning to have one heavy meal, be it lunch or dinner, and then head to a nice bar with food for the other meal. So far we are definitely going to Le Mary Celeste. Any other bars we shdn't miss? Vivant Cave vs Septime Cave for example? Not really on our list but Le Dauphin worth the trouble?

I understand too that most of these places do not take reservations. How 'bad' can the crowd get on weekdays vs weekends?

Oct 17, 2013
grovina in France

First Time in Paris - staying in the 6th...help please?

thanks for the info parnassien

Sep 24, 2013
grovina in France

First Time in Paris - staying in the 6th...help please?

Any idea what time does the jazz start at Point Bulles on sunday nights (in november)? what's the price point for this place? many thanks!

Sep 22, 2013
grovina in France

Guy Savoy [Paris Part 3]

yes, my heart was pretty set on le cinq lunch too until i read phil's trip report and it sounds superb from beginning to end. however guy savoy does have a decent outpost in singapore which is accessible to us over in asia. But then again, i am not sure if it will be like 'the real thing'. so may still try to do both GS and LC in a matter of a week. That, on top of, trying to figure if i wanna do vivant cave vs le dauphin, abri vs pierre sang.

Sep 10, 2013
grovina in France

Guy Savoy [Paris Part 3]

Hi! Wondering how does this 110e internet lunch pit against Le Cinq lunch or Goust dinner in terms of value and quality?

Sep 09, 2013
grovina in France

1st time in Burgundy

getting so excited just reading your post. we are so going there. Good hearing about Le Volnaysien, will bookmark that. Anyone here ate at this place called La Table de Guigone? we are looking at that too coz it's convenient to our hotel.

May 12, 2013
grovina in France

Any pleasant surprises in Paris that you found by chance?

I totally understand why people want to go to the few 'usual' places. If it is my 1st trip, I would want to have something to benchmark against. Just to know how good it can get.

That said, it is not necessary to have the entire list read like the 'who's who' of Paris. As i found in my 1st trip, the experience to try something out of the usual was highly rewarding. I would totally do it again. Besides, these places tend to have more locals dining there and offer more value

I'd say mix it up. I know i'll be doing that in my next trip.

May 08, 2013
grovina in France

Need Barcelona advice!

I second bcc. Hisop was excellent. Not in your list up there, but we enjoyed Tapeo very much too. We also went to Quimet&Quimet and had a great time standing around eating. Quirky, fun place. But I must add, the food they serve is probably not really up everyone's alley.

May 08, 2013
grovina in Spain/Portugal

Any pleasant surprises in Paris that you found by chance?

Last year, my husband and I went on our 1st trip to paris and did the ultimate faux pas of not having any prior reservations (don't ask me how it happened, but it did, and won't ever again). We did pretty ok despite the fact. For example, we went to Spring to try to score a table and failed, but had a wonderful lunch at Chez La Vielle just 1 minute away. We also got lucky at Huiterie Regis which doesn't take reservations and had the loveliest wine with oysters. Le Grand Pan in the 15th was out of the way and not usually discussed, but boy, the place was packed and we sat at the counter, but had a blast.

May 07, 2013
grovina in France

1st time in Burgundy

Wonderful. I will be dropping them an email to see what's up in november, though I am fairly annoyed I just read my dates miss the Hospices de Beaune festival just narrowly. If not, it would've been a great experience.

May 07, 2013
grovina in France

1st time in Burgundy

Cheers Jeremy. Never thought of having japanese in beaune but me and my husband are always open (and love) trying out food not found in the country of origin of the cuisine. For lack of a better example, we always found the best dim sum to be in australia actually. But I digress.... lol. Thanks for the great info on which wineries to look out for. Will be hunting down a tour still, but i believe there are no really "bad" wineries out there (hopefully of course).

May 07, 2013
grovina in France

1st time in Burgundy

hey sistereurope, did you opt for the 4/6/8 wine menu at comte senard? I spotted a "special menu: « 6 Prestigious Grands Crus » is possible for € 70" on their website. did you come across this option when u were there?

May 07, 2013
grovina in France

1st time in Burgundy

thanks chefJune. After consideration, yes I am of the opinion too that having both meals on the same day could potentially ruin dinner at Ma Cuisine. We are staying near the train station and seems most things are walkable - though we will be travelling in chilly november. Also, thanks for the BIVB recommendation, do you sign up ad-hoc on the day of arrival, or do you recommend booking a place online? however I don't seem to find the right links on their website

May 07, 2013
grovina in France