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Singapore (36 hours) from NYC - Please help!

Oh yes, I forgot there was a court dispute which was settled in June - CÉ LA VI is the new name for the former KU DE TA premises:

Glad to hear you enjoyed Candlenut, and thanks for reporting back.

Aug 30, 2015
klyeoh in China & Southeast Asia

Singapore Moon Cake festival.

Or just drop by Takashimaya's annual mooncake fair at Ngee Ann City Level B2 - all the major hotels and bakeries will have their pop-up stalls there, plus HK ones from the Peninsula, Maxim's, Kee Wah, Hang Heung, etc. Best place to taste the samples and compare before you buy.

Aug 29, 2015
klyeoh in China & Southeast Asia

Singapore Moon Cake festival.

There are so many new varieties these days, it's become mind-boggling. For many hotel outlets and bakery chains which offer these when the mooncake season comes round, the quality fluctuates each year, as sometimes the bakers may have changed by the next mooncake season.

Consequently, many Singaporeans chose traditional brand-names like 65-year-old Tai Thong (大同饼家) & 79-year-old Tai Chong Kok (大中国饼家) which specialize in mooncakes.

Aug 28, 2015
klyeoh in China & Southeast Asia

Chinese food in London...

Some food pics from our Chowmeet at Crystal China early this year:

Aug 27, 2015
klyeoh in U.K./Ireland

Singapore (36 hours) from NYC - Please help!

Yes, you'll be able to get Peking duck during lunch there, together with your dim sum.

Aug 27, 2015
klyeoh in China & Southeast Asia

Singapore (36 hours) from NYC - Please help!

Candlenut might suit you, as the spice level has been tapered down a bit somewhat. The restaurant has changed its concept recently and only serves set dinner menus these days - but the dishes in the set are standard Nyonya favourites, so you should enjoy those. True Blue is a bit more elaborate, with very nice traditional Nyonya decor - the prices there are a bit high, though.

There are some very good Indian restaurants in Singapore - my current fave is Punjab Grill by Jiggs Kalra

Other good options:
1) Song of India on Scotts Road:

2) Yantra at Tanglin Mall:

3) Mustard at Race Course Road for Bengali (& Punjabi) cuisine:

For more casual Indian eats, try Jaggi's on Race Course Road - it's very casual & canteen-like, but is the place that Indian chefs from other restaurants come to eat with their families on their day-off.

Aug 27, 2015
klyeoh in China & Southeast Asia

Singapore (36 hours) from NYC - Please help!

Oops, meant to say 'celebratory', not 'celebrity'. Actually, on the same level at the 57th floor of the Marina Bay Sands, you can also try Ku De Ta - it's an offshoot from the original in Bali. Great views from up there.

Aug 24, 2015
klyeoh in China & Southeast Asia

Singapore (36 hours) from NYC - Please help!

For a celebrity dinner, maybe you'd like to try Sky on 57 atop Marina Bay Sands: cuisine-wise, it's had its fans as well as detractors - but Justin Quek is Singapore's best-known local chef:

Restaurants which serve the best Nyonya cuisine tend to be bright, noisy family restaurants. Candlenut ( and Violet Oon ( would be quieter - though their ambience would be more bistro-like, rather than fine dining.

True Blue is another option (

Since you're in Fairmont Hotel downtown, it's quite convenient for you to hop over to Capitol Piazza across the road and try Four Seasons roast duck:

Fairmont Hotel is attached to Raffles City, a largish mall but most of the eateries there (you can check out the basement level)are part of chains.

Equinox on the 72nd floor offers great views and pretty respectable cuisine:

Aug 24, 2015
klyeoh in China & Southeast Asia

Chinese food in London...

For me, it just *has* to be Kai Mayfair:

Aug 20, 2015
klyeoh in U.K./Ireland

Recs Sought for Thailand: Chiang Mai and Bangkok

Aug 18, 2015
klyeoh in China & Southeast Asia

What dish is this called that I vaguely remember from a movie?

It is Peking duck.

Besides, Moo shu pork is essentially a Chinese-American dish which you won't find outside the US.

Aug 14, 2015
klyeoh in General Topics

Teenager's First Trip to London - Restaurant Advice

+1 for Rules & Moti Mahal.

Tayyab's great, too, but a bit too grungy for me.

Aug 13, 2015
klyeoh in U.K./Ireland

Teenager's First Trip to London - Restaurant Advice

For Indian, try the Bombay Brasserie, esp the Sunday brunch. Okay, so it's *not* exactly low-key, but my first experience there over 25 years was so memorable, it's set the benchmark for Indian food in London for me ever since.

Aug 13, 2015
klyeoh in U.K./Ireland

"Squirrel Fish" in Oakland Chinatown?

You're right, edgrimley - it is a style of preparation.

The restaurants in Singapore and Hong Kong (I'm Singaporean but lived in HK in the 90s) where we find this dish are usually the ones specialising in Shanghainese or Suzhou cuisine. In fact, my first experiences of "squirrel-like mandarin fish" (松鼠桂鱼) were in Shanghai itself. Why don't you call the Shanghai Restaurant in Oakland and see if they can do the whole fish for you? I used to work in Oakland (2007-2011) and had lunched there a couple of times. I'd not seen that particular dish, although they do other Shanghainese specialties pretty well.

Shanghai Restaurant
930 Webster St
Oakland, CA 94607, United States
Tel: +1 510-465-6878

My fave Chinese spots in Oakland Chinatown are Peony (the go-to place for Singaporeans visiting Oakland) and Legendary Palace, but these are Cantonese spots so not likely to do the dish.

For more on "squirrel-like mandarin fish" (松鼠桂鱼), see Item #16 in CNN's list below:

Aug 10, 2015
klyeoh in San Francisco Bay Area

Recs Sought for Thailand: Chiang Mai and Bangkok

Curt - interested to do a Chowmeet in Oct during ejcsanfran's visit? I can fly up to BKK if you're game for it.

Aug 10, 2015
klyeoh in China & Southeast Asia

Kuala Lumpur - A Taste of Malaysian Chilli Crabs!

I must go to Port Klang one of these days! More than 4 years of living in KL and I'd never gone beyond Klang town proper.

Aug 10, 2015
klyeoh in China & Southeast Asia

So what do you think of horse meat?

I'd also had raw horse-meat - in Roppongi, Tokyo - the restaurant labelled it as "yama-gujira" (mountain whale) on the menu: I presume the Japanese have lesser objections to consuming whale-meat as compared to horse-meat?

Aug 07, 2015
klyeoh in General Topics

Jalapenos in Vietnamese food--just an American thing?

Yes, brought over by Portuguese missionaries. The Thais took readily to it as they were using green peppercorns before that.

Off-topic, the Portuguese missionaries also introduced the egg thread dessert (called "Fio de Ovos" in Brazil) which the Thais called "Foi Thong".

Aug 07, 2015
klyeoh in General Topics

Jalapenos in Vietnamese food--just an American thing?

Vietnamese food is quite regional, and Southern Vietnamese food tend to be spicier. In my dining experiences in Ho Chi Minh City/Saigon, but I do get red chilli powder or chilli flakes, or cut green peppers, on little dipping bowls which accompany the main dishes.

Aug 07, 2015
klyeoh in General Topics

Taxila, Pakistan - Chapli Kabab & Freshwater "Rohu" Carp from Shahzada Khan

None at all! The chapli kebab is more rustic and basic, unlike the fine-textured and well-spiced shami kebab.

Aug 07, 2015
klyeoh in India & South Asia

Afghan Specialties at Kabul, Islamabad

The clientele seemed to be mainly Pakistanis - Pashtuns, but there is a sizeable Afghan presence that evening. The restaurant wait-staff are entirely Afghan.

Aug 07, 2015
klyeoh in India & South Asia

[Singapore] Sembawang White Beehoon from You Huak

Agreed, Martha. And from where you are, it's closer & much more convenient for you to do Cantonese 'hor fun'/'mai fun' at Ka-Soh in Amoy Street, or even pop over to Great World City for Imperial Treasure or Crystal Jade's rendition - amidst much more comfortable environs than You Huak's :-)

Aug 06, 2015
klyeoh in China & Southeast Asia

5 days eating cheaply in Rome report (absurdly long)

Best post I'd ever read on CH ;-)

Aug 06, 2015
klyeoh in Italy

Long report: a Franco-African week in Paris

"3b. Le Nouveau Paris Dakar
In the end we didn't quite feel like eating his yassa- "le meilleure du monde", he assured me- that evening. The next morning however, after the flavours deepened further overnight, it made the best breakfast we had in Paris, creamy, rich and lemony with rice and a snappy palm oil, chilli and dried prawn relish."

That sounded absolutely amazing!

Aug 06, 2015
klyeoh in France

So what do you think of horse meat?

Absolutely love horse-meat - it's a more tender, sweeter and more fragrant version of red meat, better than beef. Had it every other day when I was in Almaty, Kazakhstan, last year:

Aug 06, 2015
klyeoh in General Topics

[Kosice, Slovakia] Whole roasted pig & stuff at Koliba Zlatá Podkova

Aug 05, 2015
klyeoh in Europe

[Kosice, Slovakia] Ukrainian Dinner at Barvinok

Barvinok on Alžbetina Ulica in Kosice touts itself as being the first Ukrainian restaurant in Slovakia. It's a family-run restaurant, helmed by Hennadiy Mikhnov, the larger-than-life patriarch. A warm, cosy restaurant filled with Ukrainian decoratives and located right at the heart of Kosice, intersection of Alžbetina and Hlavna Ulica, near the 13th-century St Elisabeth Cathedral.

Aug 05, 2015
klyeoh in Europe

Bangkok recs?

No worries. BTW, if your friends are more into hanging out in the malls (BKK's weather may be a bit hot-humid for them), some chain restaurants like Greyhound Cafe, Kalpapruek, Taling Pling (in major malls like Central World @ Pathumwan, Siam Paragon and Emporium) are actually pretty good.

Aug 04, 2015
klyeoh in China & Southeast Asia

Bangkok recs?

"don't have too much experience in thai food" + "authentic real thai food recs" = may be a bit too much for them, especially if it's the street food variety :-D

But if they are game to explore, here are some old faves:

Bangkok's 100 Best Street Food Eats

1) Platoo pad krapao (stir-fried mackerel with basil, B90)
Soei, across from Samsen Railway Station, Settasiri Rd., 087-508-8402, 081-563-3131. Open Sun-Fri 11:30am-10pm
Krapao is a ubiquitous favorite, but platoo pad krapao is rare. Soei’s is well known for its unique taste and spiciness. However, this secret dish is not even on the menu. It’s a special order for connoisseurs only. Bring a book though, because the average wait for dinner is more than an hour. We think it’s worth it.

2) Guay Jub (Chinese noodles, B40)
Guay Jub Nai Aoun, in front of Charoen Nakorn Soi 21. Open daily 6pm-10pm
Compared with the famous version served in Yaowarat, the soup here is more full-bodied and, as a result, more scrumptious. It’s peppery just the way it should be, and the odorless entrails are properly cleaned and perfectly cooked.

3) Bok-kia (steamed flour and a mix of fruits and beans in syrup, B20)
Bok-kia Thadindang, 323 Thadindang Rd., 02-438-0574. Open daily 5pm-10pm
One of the best syrupy, icy treats in town. It’s not too sweet and really refreshing. All you have to put up with are the sharp-elbowed aunties who always cut ahead of the line.

4) Bamee ped (noodles with grilled duck, B55)
Mandarin, 729/1 Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor), 02-391-4062. Open daily 9.30am-6pm
The crispy skin on this roast duck is pretty delectable—and look at that amazing price!

5) Guay jub yuan (Vietnamese noodles, B35)
Dang, 68 Prasumen Rd., 085-246-0111. Open daily 11am-10pm
Portions are small but the gooey soup is just amazing, plus the moo yor is peppery and fragrant thanks to the quality pork meat.

6) Ta go (Thai dessert with coconut pudding, B15)
Maliwan Kanom Thai, 2/9 beginning of Ari Soi 1, 02-278-1179. Open daily 7am-3pm
For over 30 years, Maliwan Kanom Thai has been making fresh Thai desserts. There’s a good chance that their heavenly ta go will run out early, so make sure to get there before lunch.

7) Kanom pang sang ka ya (toast with Thai custard, B15)
Pang Yaa Ari, across Ari Soi 2. Open Mon-Sat 5-10pm
The recipe is more than 10 years old and there’s clearly no reason to change it. This stall is packed daily with people ordering this rich sang ka ya on a slender slice of toast.

8) Nuea kwang gata ron (stir-fried deer in hot pan, B120)
Tang Jua Lee, 70/5-8 Charoen Nakorn Rd., 02-861-3213, 085-859-2179. Open daily 2-11pm
Your grandma may have eaten here, as this legendary Chinese restaurant is more than 70 years old. Try their generous portions of tender but flavorful meat marinated in a secret mix of spices, and served in a sizzling hot pan. Note that their hue-zae (Chinese raw fish, B120) is also a must-try.

9) Ped mo din (braised duck in clay pot, B150)
Buay Pochana, in front of Chula Soi 36, 201/1 Bantadtong Rd., 02-215-2075. Open daily 7am-5pm
There are so many branches for this place, but we think the best one is on Bantadtong (get ready for a fun jostle with the hungry grandmas). The ped mo din comes in many kinds, so you can eat the whole duck from beak to feet.

10) Suki haeng (sukiyakaki without broth, B50)
Suki Elvis, 200/37 Soi Yosse, 02-223-4979. Open daily 4-11pm
The battle never ends between Suki Elvis and the next-door Suki Maverick. Both are delicious, but we think Suki Elvis is just that bit juicier.

11) Khao mun kai Singapore (Hainanese steamed chicken with rice, B65)
Boon Tong Kiat, 440/5 in front of Thonglor Soi 16, 02-390-2508. Open daily 10am-10pm
With its fatty rice and powerful sauces, we think this beats the pants off Pratunam’s version of steamed chicken.

12) Ice cream kati (Coconut milk ice cream, B15)
Nattaporn Ice Cream, 94 Phraeng Phutorn Rd., 02-221-3954, 02-622-2455. Open Mon-Sat 9am-4pm
This half-century-old ice cream parlor is a sure bet for light and refreshing Thai-style frozen treats. Make sure you order a slice of their matum cake, too.

13) Guay tiew moo krob (noodles with fried pork crackling, B40)
Haa Bai Tao, 1486/4 Charoen Nakorn Rd., 02-438-6840. Open Tue-Sun 10am-1:30pm
This recipe comes from the five sisters who gave the shop its name. What’s so special about it? The noodles aren’t too soggy and the soup is naturally sweetened from the pork ribs. And if you love pork entrails, these are to die for. Just make sure you get there before 1pm, otherwise, the moo krob will have run out.

14) Khao niew moon (sticky rice with coconut milk and mango, B90)
Maewaree, 1 Sukhumvit Soi 55, 02-392-4304. Open 24/7, khao niew only available 5am-11pm
A few steps from BTS Thong Lor, you can’t miss the mango displays taking up half the sidewalk. The moist sticky rice looks like a really big portion, but that’s because they sneak the mango seed underneath. Still, this remains one of our faves.

15) Guay tiew kua gai (fried noodles with chicken, B40)
Chonticha, 63/8-9 Aumnuaysongkram Rd., 02-244-8887. Open daily 10am-9pm
Competition is fierce for guay tiew kua gai in Bangkok, but what makes this one extra special is the rumor that members of the royal family love eating here. Is it as yummy as it is famous? Not quite, but it’s clearly one of the best in town.

16) Eggplant fries (B110)
Giew Jeen, 5/4 Soi Ngamduplee, Rama 4 Rd., 02-679-7019. Open daily 10:30am-2pm, 5-10:30pm
Don’t let being vegetarian get in the way of your love for all things deep-fried. These eggplant fries are wonderfully crispy (and slightly tangy), so you won’t be missing no chicken and potatoes.

17) Pla muek pad prik gluea (stir-fried squid with chili and salt, B150)
Tong Taa, 52 Ladprao Soi 86, 02-539-4436. Open daily (except 20th of every month) 10:30-10:30pm
Ladies, go during the day and order this highly recommended dish because at night, the place is a bit rough, thanks to the occasional drunks. We gotta say, though, the perfect combination of chili, salt and plump squid does soak up booze incredibly well.

18) Guay tiew nuea (beef noodles, B50)
Gate Ocha, 200 meters from the beginning of Pattanakarn Soi 53, Open 9am-1pm
Many Bangkokians rank Gate Ocha as their most favorite in town. Period.

19) Khao mun gai (Hainanese steamed chicken with rice, B40)

Mongkol Wattana, near Paolo Memorial Hospital, 670/6 Phaholyothin Rd., 02-270-1107. Open daily (except the last Wed of every month) 9am-9pm
The walls of this restaurant have been completely covered in certificates singing the merits of their khao mun gai—all well-deserved in our humble opinion.

20) Guay tiew yam bok (noodles in spicy salad without broth, B35)
Krob Krueng, 5 Ari Samphan Soi 10, 02-278-3279. Open Mon-Sat 9am-3pm
This is like noodles crossed with a Thai-style spicy salad, so you’ll get that typical full-on, limey sourness and the sugary sweetness combined in one hearty, yummy bowl.

21) Giew goong naam (shrimp wonton in soup, B60)
Jaak Kee, 1/35-36 Ratwithee Soi 7, 02-245-0849. Open daily (except the first Mon of every month) 10am-3pm
Famous for its raad naa (noodles in gravy sauce), we actually go to Jaak Kee for the giew goong naam’s plump, fleshy goodness.

22) Fried roti (B30)
Roti Poh Chang, opposite to Poh Chang College Tripetch Rd., Pahurat, 02-221-2084. Open daily 10am-6pm.
Drop by wearing your loosest pants as the paper-thin roti sprinkled with sugar and condensed milk is extremely addictive. Of course, this illusion of lightness hides a sweet, fatty bomb of carb-heavy goodness.

23) Guay tiew kua gai (fried noodles with chicken, B30-B50)
Guay tiew kua gai Yaowarat, Trok Issaranuphap, Yaowarat. Open daily 8pm-1am
This hole-in-the-wall is so popular that the grumpy auntie makes sure everyone at the table is eating—so don’t even think about sharing. And why would you? Her chicken noodles, cooked on a small brass pan, are simply amazing.

24) Teen gai (aka super chicken feet in spicy soup, B60)
Khao Tom OT, 16/136 Songprapa, 02-566-1326, 02-566-4926. Open daily 4:30pm-4:30am
Foot fetishists who like it spicy (and sour) look no further.

25) Guay tiew nuea (beef noodles, B35)
Rod Ded, in front of Soi Ratchakru, Phaholyothin Rd., 02-278-1551. Open daily 9:30am-4pm
Portions are practically bite-sized but very big on flavor. Plus, their incredibly fragrant homemade chili powder is worth the visit alone.

26) Raad naa (noodles in gravy sauce, B40)
Raad Naa 40 Pee, next to 7-Eleven, Ratpattana Rd., 089-219-3963. Open daily 8:30am-8pm
From father to son, the faces in the kitchen may change but the dish remains identical. This long-standing establishment’s preserved pork is simply stunning.

27) Gang som tai (sweet and sour curry, B80-B100)
Samui, 61/2 Soi Liab Tang Duan, Ratburana Rd., 083-815-1180. Open Mon-Fri 11am-9pm
Authentic and pungent, this curry packs only the freshest spices—such as the turmeric. Note, call ahead for directions.

28) Congee (rice porridge, B30)
Joke Prince, 1391 Charoenkrung Rd., across Robinson Bangrak, 0-2234-9407. Open daily 6am-12pm and 5-9pm
An original congee the way it’s meant to be: with a full body and a natural, smoky flavor.

29) Mee krob (fried rice noodles with tamarind juice, B120)
Mee Krob Jeen Lee, 326-330 Talad Plu Pier, 0-2466-9170, 0-2466-9037. Open daily 10am-10pm
The story goes that their great-great-grandfather once cooked for HM King Rama V the same mee krob recipe they serve today. In any case, the use of real tamarind is definitely becoming rarer, making this mee krob the real deal.

30) Moo Tod (fried pork, B50)
Khao Niew Moo St. Gabriel, 61/2 Samsen Soi 13, 02-241-2377. Open Mon-Sat 7am-4pm, Sun 7am-2pm
White or black sticky rice is paired with various homemade toppings, from fried liver, shredded beef and sausages to sun-dried pork. Also known as Metta Moo Tod, it’s the perfect 11am pick-me-up.

31) Guay tiew kua gai (fried noodles with chicken, B35)
Nai Seng, at the beginning of Soi Ari, in front of the pawn. Open Tue-Fri and Sun 6-9:30pm
The grandpa often won’t bother to cook up his noodles unless there are 15 of you ready to be served. Not that it takes long to collect a crowd. Once you’ve tasted his stuff, you’ll understand why he can afford to be such a diva.

32) Kanompang sangkaya (starts from B15)
Nom Joe, 441 Tanao Rd. Open Mon-Sat 10am-11pm
Those who have already tried Mon Nom Sod and are looking for a more relaxed atmosphere should come here. The toasts are just as good, and you can also order heartier dishes like congee and fresh spring rolls.

33) Moo tod (fried pork on rice, B20-B25)
Jae Jong, behind Tesco-Lotus Rama 4, 348 Rim Tang Rod Fai Sai Pak Nam Rd. Open Mon-Sat 9am-3pm
Jae Jong is an idol worshipped by messengers and motorcycle-taxis as she blesses them with her rice topped with moo tod, moo yaw and poo jaa at bargain prices (B20-B25, B200 for a kilo). And even if you don’t ride a bike, this is one blessing we can all be thankful for.

34) Khao pad poo (fried rice with crabmeat, B40)
Ko Yee, Soi Charoennakorn 21, 02-863-6955. Open daily 10am-10pm
Fresh and lovingly hand-picked crab meat in fluffy, stir-fried rice. Call for directions first.

35) Bamee poo (noodles with crab meat, B50-B300)
Sawang, 336/2 Rama 4 Rd. MRT Hua Lamphong. 02-236-1772. Open Tue-Sun 5-11pm
Passed down for over three generations, this recipe for homemade egg noodles is jealously guarded due to its incredibly silky texture.

36) Ped palo (braised goose, B130 for small plate)
Chua Kim Heng, across from Pattanakarn Soi 6, 81, 83, 02-319-2511. Open daily 8:30am-6pm
The place is packed with neighborhood hi-so’s, as many claim that it’s one of the best braised geese in town: salty, sweet and wonderfully meaty.

37) Khao mok gai (biryani rice topped with chicken, B40)
Aisa Rot Dee, beginning of Tani Road, 02-282-6378. Open daily (except the fourth Mon of every month) 8am-5pm
This food-court style venue is home to many Thai-Muslim stalls including this place serving tender chicken cooked in a deep, yellow curry.

38) Guay tiew lord (stuffed rice flour rolls, B35)
Guay Tiew Lord, Yaowaraj Rd. in front of the Seiko shop, next to La Scala shark fin restaurant. Open Tue-Sun 6:30pm-1am
This little roll is loaded with so many flavors: pork, shiitake mushrooms and dried shrimp. And it’s all held together by toothsome rice noodles.

39) Laad naa (noodles with gravy sauce, B350 for seafood)
Jae Fai, 327 Mahachai Rd., 02-223-9384. Open Mon-Sat 3pm-2am
The street laad naa has a pretty fancy price but it—and its reputation—are deserved thanks to a killer combination of seafood with crispy noodles prepared three ways.

40) Guay tiew ped (duck noodles, B35)
Xia, 2856 Rama IV Rd., 02-671-3279, Open Mon-Sat 7:30pm-midnight
This simple (and ubiquitous) dish gets a five-spice powder treatment—just what the Chinese doctor ordered.

41) Pad see ew (fried noodles with sweet sauce, B30)
Nay Lao, 124/8 Nang Linchi Rd., 02-678-3517. Open Tue-Sun 11am-11pm, Mon 11am-3pm
The owner makes this dish fast and never combines orders, making it even more remarkable that he’s always smiling and nice. You’ll smile, too, after one bite.

42) Yen ta fo (noodles in pickled bean curd, B40)
Yen Ta Fo Ko Du, behind Central Silom and across from the Baptist Church. Open Mon-Fri 11am-2pm
The broth is balanced with plenty of deep-fried crispy garlic, sour pickled squid and slightly salty tao huu yii. Be warned, the grumpy owner is in charge of seating, so don’t just grab a stool.

43) Hoy tod (fried oysters with flour, B65)
Nay Mong, corner of Plaeng Naam and Charoenkrung Rd., 02-623-1980. Open daily 11am-9pm
Here you’re getting a brilliant combo of seafood and egg; smoky, rich and cooked to perfection. Also, these are some of the fattest oysters we’ve ever seen.

44) Khao tom (boiled rice, B80-B100)
Khao Tom Prung, 1083 Sukhumvit Road (corner of Soi Thong Lor), 02-391-8433. Open daily 5pm-10pm
Fresh and hygienic condiments go a long way when dealing with a dish where you just toss the ingredients into the boiled rice without cooking them first. Here, they’re also aromatic and served in very generous portions.

45) Tao tung (variety of beans in syrup B15-B40)
Tao Tung, near Sapanluerng Church, close to Samyan Market, 02-214-0612. Open daily (except Weds) 12pm-midnight.
All the beans offered here are prepared by hand, and clearly a lot of attention goes into the process. A rare treat these days when you can just buy these things in bulk at the market.

46) Kanompang ping (toast with toppings, B20)
Pang Yaowarat, across from Chinatown Scala Restaurant, Yaowarat Rd.
Many kinds of toasted bread are offered here, but we recommend you go for the crispy one. You can forget about their drinks, though (and you’ll see no one else orders any).

47) Guay tiew nuea (beef noodles, B50)
Mit Pochana, 49 Thaprachan Pier, Open daily 7am-5:30pm
It’s a steamy, seedy backdrop with smells wafting in from all sides—not all of them pleasant. But having to wash your hair after a visit to Mit Pochana is a small price to pay for their tender, juicy beef noodles.

48) Gui chai (flour stuffed with Chinese chives, B6 for a piece)
Jae Toi, 122 Mahannop Rd., 02-622-1221, 085-347-2121. Open daily 7am-3pm
A thin—so thin it’s see-through—rice flour wrapping packed with a generous stuffing that explodes in your mouth.

49) Guay tiew nuea (beef noodles, B40)
Gao Lao Nuea Toon, 575/1 Radpattana Rd., 02-872-0672. Open 10am-3pm, 4:30-10pm
Two brothers take turns selling their delicious beef noodles. We suggest you go for the first round, which is even better than the evening offering.

50) Khao soi (Northern Thai noodles, B30)
Khao Soi Chiang Mai, 328/10 Sukhothai Soi 5, 02-668-4497 Open Mon-Sat 8am-2:30pm
It’s not easy to find the perfect khao soi, but khao soi Soi Haa (as it’s also known) has a really rich hearty soup and chicken that’s tender and moist, unlike most other places.

51) Gai baan yang khao suan kwang (grilled domestic chicken, B140)
Paa Nuek, 939/22 Bangna-Trad Soi 23, Bangna-Trad Km. 3 Rd., 081-732-8011. Open daily 10:30am-11:00pm (kitchen closed 10:30pm)
Famous for their chicken marinade, which keeps it moist despite the firm flesh of these free-range birds—a perfect match for their fiery Isaan food.

52) Tom yum pung kai plachon naa (snakehead fish belly in tom yum B80-B150)
Manaowaan, near Lotus Prachachuen, 1027 Rimklong Prapa Rd., 081-641-6225. Open daily 4pm-midnight
A lemony soup packed with many herbs, fish belly and big fish eggs floating around in your bowl—it tastes better than it sounds, trust us.

53) Ice cream boran (old style ice cream, B15)
Lung Chuan, Klong Ladmayom, Bangramaad Rd., 02-422-4270, 089-215-2659. Open daily 8am-5pm
The uncle making this traditional ice-cream handpicks the coconuts—or so we’re told. The result is exquisite.

54) Pang sib (steamed fish dumpling, B4 for a piece)
Khun Kob, Talad Sahakorn Sala Namyen, Sutthawas Rd., 087-009-3748. Open daily 8am-4pm
Another vague royal claim: this recipe is from the owner’s husband’s grandmother who used to work in the kitchen of HM King Rama V. All we know for sure is that this baked dish, also known as pun sib, is hard to find, and very hard to find this well-made.

55) Kanom waan (varied sweets in syrup, B20)
Cheng Zim Ei, Talad Noi, Khao Lam Rd., 081-620-1788. Open 7pm–11pm.
Although we don’t have snow in Thailand, we have shaved ice with syrup. Sweet but not too sweet, the syrup here is particularly light and refreshing.

56) Puek hima (fried, sugar-coated taro, B50)
Jae Nee, 303 Tanao Rd., 02-224-6526. Open daily 9am-5pm
The trick with this treat is to cook the sugar for as long as you can without burning it. And the timing here is just perfect. Their use of very soft taro doesn’t hurt either.

57) Guay tiew nuea toon (steamed beef noodles, B60)
Wattana Panich, 338-336 Ekkamai Soi 18, 02-391-7264. Open daily (except last Mon of every month) 10am-9pm
Ekkamai has cheap eats, too, like this one. Their soup is wonderfully lumpy and gooey—the way it should be. While you’re here, try their famous goat meat in Chinese soup, too.

58) Woon ped (coconut milk jelly, B30 for a box)
Thanun, 419/27 Moo Baan Boon Maa Nakorn, Pracha Utit Soi 54, 02-870-4011. Open daily 6am-7pm
In this far away land, there’s a duck-shaped coconut jelly that we promise will make you forget every other coconut jelly you’ve ever tried.

59) Baa bin maprao namhom (sweet coconut pancake, B25 for 7 pieces)
Kanom Baa Bin Maprao Namhom Sampran, Talad Sriyan, Nakorn Chaisri Rd., 081-867-6573. Open Tue, Thu and Sat 6am-5pm
If you don’t call ahead, expect to wait two hours—yes, two hours—for their finger-licking good sweets made from the best Sampram coconuts.

60) Ped toon fuk manao dong (steamed duck in lime soup, B95)
Por Krua Tuen Yod Nuk Toon, at the end of the alley between Charoenkrung Soi 89 and Soi 91, 02-289-5105. Open Sun-Fri 9am-4pm
This is the top place to grab a steaming bowl of limey soup filled with soft morsels of duck meat.

61) Pork knuckle spring rolls (B40)
Pork Knuckle Spring Rolls, across the back door of Wat Tuek, Klong Tom, 089-052-1217. Open Tue-Sun 7am-5pm
This small stall does only one dish, but it’s really, really good at it—a salty and sweet gravy poured over these tender melt-in-your-mouth spring rolls.

62) Giam ee nam prik pao (Chinese noodles in chili sauce, B30)
Jae Chung, Charoenkrung Soi 23, 083-775-7600. Open daily 8:30am-2pm
Giam ee is hard to find, and harder still is sourcing the version with chili sauce. Served for more than 20 years, Jae Chung’s version manages to avoid this dish’s most common pitfall—sogginess. Note, cars can’t go in the soi.

63) Kanom chan (layered cake, B180 for the 8-inch tray)
Waan Dumrong, 573/115 Ramkhamhang Soi 39, Yak 14, Ramkhamhang Rd., 02-559-0677, 02-559-3134. Open daily 7am-6pm
Another famous Thai dessert, this lip-smacking recipe for Waan Dumrong’s kanom chan has been handed down more than 40 years. It has just the right amount of sweetness and a wonderful pandanus fragrance, so you can keep stuffing your face without feeling grossed out too quickly.

64) Guay tiew reua (boat noodles, B15)
Toi, Ratchawithi Soi 18, behind Wat Makok, 081-619-1925, 087-045-0073. Open daily 8:30am-5:30pm
The namtok soup is so rich and tasty, there’s no need to season it.

65) Kanom jeen hai lum (Hainanese noodles, B40)
Suthathip, 338-342 Dumrongrak Rd., 02-282-4313. Open Tue-Sun 8am-6pm
The shophouse offers many dishes, but their kanom jeen hai lum is unique, thanks to the addition of fragrant kapi (shrimp paste).

66) Lord chong Singapore (green noodles in coconut milk and shaved ice, B18)
Lord Chong Singapore, 680-682 Charoen Krung Rd., 02-221-5794. Open Fri-Wed 11am-10pm
This is where all the neighborhood grandpas can be found trying to beat the heat with some of the city’s lightest and most fragrant lord chong.

67) Goong ob woonsen (steamed shrimp with cellophane noodles, B70)
Ae Seafood, Chula Soi 14, Bantadtong Rd., 08-1619-1924, Open daily (except the 1st and 16th of every month) 5-11pm
This grungy, steamy street-side shophouse doesn’t need to be pretty thanks to the super fresh catches they serve up daily at ridiculously low prices.

68) Guay tiew tom yum (noodles in tom yum, B30)
Jae Bua, Tha Dindang Rd., 081-700-4132, 089-517-0387. Open Tue-Sun 9pm-2am
This simple classic is not that simple to get right. But we’ve seen many lick their plate clean here. Don’t underestimate this small stall and come armed with patience as it can get very busy.

69) Look chin ping (beef meatballs, B8)
Look Chin Anamai, across from Bangkok Insurance Company, 3 Soi Soonvijai, Rama 9 Rd., 02-318-1606. Open daily 9:30am-6pm
The beef’s flavor really comes through with smooth and tender meatballs. And if you’re super hungry, this place also serves noodles with their meatballs.

70) Kanom bueng (Thai pancakes, B15)
Kanom Bueng Werng Nakorn Kasem (Yaowarat), past Yaowarat Soi 6, Yaowarat Rd. Open daily 7pm-11pm
Their special ingredient is the egg that they spray on their perfectly crispy crepes. The very eggy (and not too sweet) foi tong (egg yolk threads) filling is heavenly.

71) Kanom jeen (rice vermicelli with curries, B20)
Kanom Jeen Banglumpoo, in a tiny alley near Tang Hua Seng department store, Chakraphong Rd., Open daily 10am-7pm
The kanom jeen has some irresistibly rich curries, including naamya (fish curry), naamya pah (fermented fish curry), namprik (sweet curry) and green curry. Accompanying veggies are on the house. Here’s to healthy binge eating!

72) Moo tod (fried pork, B35 per 100g.)
Moo tord chao wang, opposite Siriraj Hospital, in front of TMB Bank, 087-594-2466, 085-351-4777. Open Mon-Sat 9am-6pm
In a nice twist from the usual crispy skewered options, this comes with a savory, full-flavored sauce slathered onto the soft pieces of pork. The owner says the secret to the great taste is the fact that he changes the cooking oil daily.

73) Khao niew moon (Sticky rice with mango, B70-B80, depending on the price of mango)
Pa Lek Pa Yai, Maitri Chit Rd., Wongwian 22, 303. 084-935-2935. Open daily 9am–8pm (only during Feb-Jul)
You know a place is serious about their mangoes when they only open a few months a year. Their coconut milk is also particularly rich and addictive, making this place worth the trek. Call ahead for directions.

74) Guay tiew moo sub gradook on (baby back ribs and noodles, B30)
Guay Tiew Moo Sub Gradook On Boran, 300m from Sukhapiban 5 Rd., 085-446-6760. Open daily 8am-4pm
Take Ayutthaya-style noodles—the original namtok soup—throw in some fresh lemon juice and add baby-back ribs. Need we say more?

75) Sunnork gata ron (sirloin in hot pan, B165)
Ko Khun Ponyang Kum, Nualchan Soi 21, 085-819-8832. Open daily 11:30am-midnight
Cheap and tender, the beef is cooked just right as it sizzles its way to the table on a hot plate

76) Ped yang (grilled duck, B90)
Jibkee, across Talad Nanglerng, 355-359 Nakhon Sawan Rd., 02-281-1283. Open daily 9am-2pm
For over 80 years, this shophouse has been serving authentic Cantonese grilled duck. Put this one at the top of your list because the grandpa’s family doesn’t want to take on the business. We’re so sad.

77) Yum poo dong (fermented raw crab in spicy salad, B300)
Jae Liab, next to Phyathai Hospital, Phaholyothin Rd., 02-619-8639. Open daily 6pm-3am
It’s sour and spicy, with incredibly fresh crab—despite the fermentation process. Our favorite part is the seven different dipping sauces, with one designed just for the yum poo dong.

78) Pla krapong tod rad prik (fried seabass with chili and garlic, B80)
Chairode, next to Phyathai Dental Group, 467/25 Phyathai Rd., 02-354-4090. Open daily 11am-8pm
This must-order dish is not so easy to find, especially with skin this crispy and flesh this tender.

79) Guay tiew neua (beef noodles, B40)
Wandee, 1561 Charoenkrung Rd., 02-211-8566, 081-3730846. Open daily (except Buddhist holy days) 10am-5pm
This small shophouse is packed with people buying nearly flourless meatballs hundreds at a time, but we suggest you enjoy them with noodles, the perfect match.

80) Suki (Sukiyaki, B145 for pork and B290 for seafood)
Suki Ruen Pet, across Amari Atrium, 1903-5 New Petchburi Rd., 02-314-5047, 02-314-4274. Open daily 11am-9:30pm
Another legendary shophouse, this Hainanese suki—the first in Bangkok—really shines thanks to its naam jim.

81) Guay tiew pak mo (steamed rice dumpling in soup, B40)
Pee Kay, 95 Ladprao Soi 71, 083-697-6336. Open Tue-Sun (except holidays) 10:30am-6pm
Take your regular khao griab pak mo dumplings, drop them into a clear broth and add the extras: minced pork with tofu, minced pork with cabbage and much more. Delicious!

82) Nue pad nummun hoy kai dib (stir-fried beef with oyster sauce and raw egg, B150)
Tai Heng Pochana, 593-595 Charoennakorn Rd., 02-877-9050-1. Open Tue-Sun 10am-9pm
A former chef at Hoy Tien Lao, he now runs his own place, reputed for importing many ingredients from Hong Kong just to make sure the tastes are just right—in particular his stir-fried beef specialty.

83) Gao lao (Beef hotpot, B50)
Iam Pochana, near Wong Wian 22, 215/2-3 Maitrijit Rd., 02-225-0582. Open daily 4pm-4am
Meat lovers never tire of this 60-year-old establishment for its scrumptious beef hotpot and moo krata (hot pan buffet) at low prices.

84.) Kai tod (fried chicken, B180)
Jae Kee, 137/1-2 Soi Polo, 02-655-8489. Open daily 7:30am-9:30pm
One of the city’s most popular somtam joints, we actually like their finger-licking fried chicken even better. It comes covered with heaps of totally addictive deep-fried garlic. Delivery is also available at an additional charge.

85) Seafood porridge (B150-B200)
Viroon Ice Cream, 505/2-3 Soi Pranakares, near Saphan Lueng, 02-233-6735. Open daily 6pm-midnight
Don’t let the name mislead you, Viroon Ice Cream actually serves up yummy (but pricey) seafood porridges. Get the one with big chunks of seabass or oysters.

86) Ped toon ya jeen (steamed duck in Chinese soup, B50)
Ped Toon Ya Jeen Rod Chao Wang, 124/71-73 Pattanakarn Soi 47-49, 02-321-4469. Open daily 8am-3pm
Situated on the very edge of Bangkok, this place executes this Chinese recipe with tender duck that melts in your mouth.

87) Moo yang kati sod (grilled pork topped with coconut milk, B60)
Pepper Don Mueng Moo Yang Kati Sod, Talad Airport, 02-503-8822, 081-426-3181. Open daily 11am-7pm
Known for its special recipe with rich coconut milk and pork, Pepper Don Mueng Moo Yang Kati Sod often has a long queue of loyal customers. They’re not just here for the pork, but also for the stellar sticky rice, which comes in different variations such as khao niew dum (black sticky rice) and pandanus.

88) Guay tiew tom yum goong namkon (noodles in milky tom yum, B50)
Pee or, 68/51 Petchburi Soi 5, 02-612-9013. Open Mon-Sat 10am-10pm
At this price, those are some seriously big shrimps in your tomyam noodles. Despite the generous portion, you should have it as a snack in the afternoon because they often run out in the evening

89) Bamee kai (noodles with egg, B30)
Lung Chuey, in front of Ekkamai Soi 19, Open Tue-Sun 8pm-4am
The partying crowds throng to this red pick-up truck when the clubs throw them out. The soft-boiled egg adds a velvety touch to the dish. Be prepared for long wait times—which aren’t helped by the somewhat rude and clueless staff.

90) Bua loy kai kem (taro mixed with flour in coconut milk and salted eggs, B18)
Bua Loy Kai Kem, E 5/2 Block, Klongsan Pier Plaza, Charoennakorn Rd., 081-697-5971, 089-016-7959. Open daily 2-7pm
Their seven-color bua loy is made with seven herbs and veggies like butterfly pea, carrot or beetroot. The result is not only beautiful colors, but also a very aromatic smell.

91) Khao mok nuea (yellow beef with biryani rice, B90)
Ahmad Rotdee, Praram 9-Srinakarin Rd., 081-811-4601, 089-076-7610. Open daily 9am-3pm
This is the real deal khao mok: fragant, not too fatty with great rice and tender meat. The beef, goat or chicken on biryani rice can be had with a hearty bowl of oxtail soup. (If you prefer goat meat, khao mok pae is available only on Mon, Wed and Fri.)

92) Guay tiew moo (pork noodles, B40)
Rung Rueng, 10/1-2 Sukhumvit Soi 26, 02-258-6744. Open Mon-Fri 8:30am-4:30pm.
A family-run business that offers only one dish—noodles with pork and fish. Their pork broth is rich and flavorful as are the trimmings of liver and intestine. Just be warned this place gets packed on weekends, always the sign of a good restaurant.

93) Kanom tung taek (Thai crepe with filling, B10)
Pa Tim, opposite Siriraj Hospital, in front of Kasikorn Bank, 085-937-1193, 085-110-0467. Open Tue-Sun 9am-8pm
The crowd gathered around the stall makes it hard to miss. They are not only here because of the reasonable price, but also for the fantastic taste of this old-school tung taek. The fillings available are coconut, corn, foi tong (sweet egg yolk threads), steamed custard and raisin.

94) Pagrim kaitao (sweet vermicelli in coconut milk, B15)
Jia Chai, Yaowarat Rd., 087-936-0671. Open daily 9pm-midnight
Good pagrim kaitao is so rare. This mobile motorcycle stall hits the perfect balance of sweet and salty. The texture, too, with its chewy vermicelli, is just right.

95) Moo Satay (pork satay, B6)
Jirawat Pattakarn, 331/20 Ratburana Rd., 02-427-3101. Open daily 11:30-10pm
Jirawat Pattakarn is really a Chinese restaurant, but in front of the restaurant, they have a small grill serving up a mean moo satay. Warning to the health-conscious: this dish comes with big chunks of tender, but fatty, pork.

96) Yen ta fo (noodles in pickled bean curd, B40)
Yen Ta Fo Wat Kaek, next to Wat Kaek, 8 Pan Rd., 02-236-4393. Open Mon-Sat 10am-4pm
Another yen ta fo favorite for its potent sauce, big portions and crispy water spinach.

97) Pla yang (grilled mango fish with herbs, B160)
Praram 9 Kaiyang, in front of Rama IX Soi 39, 02-719-8039. Open Tue-Sun 10am-8:30pm
The place is packed almost every day, all day, for its Isaan food, but our favorite is the pla yang, which has a wonderful herbal scent and pleasantly chewy texture.

98) Jim joom (herbal hot pot, B90)
Jim Joom Ladya, in front of SCB, Ladya Rd. Open daily 7pm-1am
If you get here, you’ll find more than ten places selling the big, clay hot pots. They almost all taste similar, but we think this particular one is the best, as are the other Isaan dishes here.

99) Nam nueng (Vietnamese sausage wrapped with veggies, B140)
Nong Kai, 74/49 Soi Senanikom, Phaholyothin Rd., 02-578-0532. Open daily 9am-9:30pm
This nam nueng comes with fresh, fragrant, herbal flavors. And even though this place is not a fancy restaurant, their veggies sure are clean. A healthy option that doesn’t skimp on flavor.

100) Nuea yang (grilled beef, B70)
Lum Duan Nuea Yang, 1820 in front of On Nut Soi 52, 088-187-1612. Open daily 12pm-midnight
Love meat tender? Love meat true? Then you’ll love this dish; their beef has such an appetizing smell with its fermented seasoning and is really juicy. Also, try their equally delicious som tam poo ma (papaya salad with blue crab, B75).

Aug 04, 2015
klyeoh in China & Southeast Asia

NY foodies in Bangalore

Yes, compared to the SF Bay Area board, the India/South Asia board might as well be the Night of the Living Dead.

For a country where the IT industry is very important and a major job sector, food sites and food-blogging are surprisingly still in their infancy in India.

Aug 03, 2015
klyeoh in India & South Asia