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Help planning Christmas 2012 - 2 weeks in Paris with a kitchen

Hi!

I thought I owed everyone a short trip report.

At our slow pace, we only did half of what we had intended. We didn't make it to Rouen. My wife now is reading lists of things people wished they had done in Paris. We could easily have stayed another week or two.

Our Val de Grace apartment though a bit tight for 5 and with a squeaky hallway floor, I'd give 4+/5. Our landlady was very nice. She gave a christmas tree, welcome pastry basket, and an initial load of coffee and supplies. Location was great (especially once we understood the bus routes). Big tv and lots of dvds. We'd stay there again. Kitchen had practically everything (still am glad I brought a sharp knife) including spices, dishwasher, baking trays, etc.

Foodwise as follows:

Breakfasts - Big breakfasts were the norm, sausages, eggs, croissants, etc. berries, fruit, yogurt, granola, nespresso or the cheap nespresso clone. Made french toast from leftover baguettes. We only discovered the washing machine halfway through the stay, so wasted a lot of time washing dishes.

Markets - I liked Rue daguerre, 20 minute walk (vs Cler, Buci, Wilson). Best seafood I've seen in Paris, though no sushi grade tuna but lots of sparkling fish, including live lobsters and scallops, good boulangerie, monoprix near by. They had dressed suckling pigs, but I was worried about the oven clean up (we always clean up before we leave). I will give it a go next time. I liked Monoprix for basics plus if they recommend wine it's quite good qpr. Mouff was also interesting but a little bit further off.

Butchers - Went to Charcellay a few times, as well as one of the four in the daguerre area. Got closed out at Desnoyer on NY eve. I wanted to try the Nathan Myrhvold steak with two extra thick ribeyes for Dec 31 dinner. Alas it seems all the stores were ransacked that day. I managed to get some flank steak which I seared and served with a sauce made from panfried mixed mushrooms (frozen cepes, fresh chanterelles + others), garlic and creme fraiche.

Poultry - I got a 30euro black footed farm chicken, not the priciest. It's more expensive than it looks as it includes innards when weighed. Roasted at home as instructed. This was the best roast chicken we've had in our lives. It took almost an hour at 350 with some fiddling at higher heat to crisp skin. Next time I will invest in the 60 euro chickens. At the market, a single beautifully roasted pintade was just finishing on the spit. I tried to buy it but it was someone's order. I also roasted some quail which was not bad. I resisted the temptation to stuff it with foie.

Fresh Truffles - I only saw this at Grand Epicerie (3500 euro per kg) and at La valette in Rue Daguerre (half the price). I bought one and made an omeltte. Hmm was ok, not bad but didn't hear music play in the background as we ate. I bought a couple to bring home.

Boulangeries - Went to many excellent ones. Went to poilane, bread's good and bought some for presents. I liked their croissant and apple tart. Best pan choclat was the freshly baked one in Versailles. However, our overall favorite was Eric Kayser. I need to learn to make their raspberry muffins, crunchy, chewy on the outside and moist and good amount of berry. We went back 4x for the muffins. Gosselin looked really good but we were on the way to the Louvre.

Restaurants - Well we didn't go to that many but overall not bad. I really liked Dans Les Landes (truffle risotto, calamari, pumpkin soup) and very reasonable. A great suggestion. Spring was excellent, perfectly cooked sea trout, perfectly cooked guinea hen with crispy skin and good dessert. We also splurged in Atelier de Robuchon. My wife and I got the tasting menu and my kids ordered a la carte. Hmm, well we really liked half the dishes (scallop with foie and truffle, bone marrow on toast, pigs feet, dessert) and I would eat there again but choosing with greater wisdom. L'as du falafel was the best cheap date. Our fr friend also took me to the cafe at the Louvre, which was very good. Worst resto was on the second floor of epicerie.

Best home cooked meals - Lobster risotto (live canadian at 29e/kg, not the bretton blue at 3x the price), escargot - my kids discovered they liked snails, panfried scallops, roast chicken, pasta with mixed mushrooms, razor clams with white wine, steak. All my kids got a little bit of wine. Asian - made pretty good katsudon, also had sushi night w japanese rice, nori, salmon roe, sliced avocado, salmon and vinegared mackarel.

Best quickie food - we liked the supermarket chipolatas for breakfast, also Monoprix sells pizza which when fortified with parmiggiano + fresh mozzarella or left over brie, properly crisped, topped with ruccola is excellent.

Ice cream and other overrated stuff- Found the real berthillon amidst the fakes, but haagen daz is better and San Crispino in Rome more so by an order of magnitude. Grand Epicerie, hot chocolate at Angelina's at Galeries Lafayette. Roast chestnuts at the Xmas market. Higuma (only one of us finished the ramen). Not too many actually.

Chocolate & Macaron - Patrick Roger was the best chocolate we've had in our lives(our favorite real world choc is See's), best among the three others we tried in Paris (maison, one in lafayette). Pierre Herme - certainly the best flavored macarons we've had...but something about the texture, like raw cookie dough.

I took home some bread, olives, cheese, dried salami, mi-cuit foie gras, expensive olive oil, a couple more truffles for a friend in Manila and for me. The chocolate we brought home my wife had to give to a client :(

Souvenirs - My wife bought a handbag, expensive but not the ridic one. With the detax, rimowas are about 30% less than Manila, so we bought 2 salsa airs. We could spend more time in Clignacourt, didn't realize it was so big. I tried to buy a wooden lion's head that the store owner said was 500 years old, but he was asking for 2000e. My wife was looking for vintage clothing and bags in the 8th and while womens items were really expensive, the men's stuff was actually quite cheap. I found a really nice Schott B-3 shearling bomber jacket (sold for $1.1k) for 200e and my kids all got nice stuff.

Weight - walking 4-5 hours a day....we ended up not gaining any weight! It's taking us longer to get over jetlag though.

Weather - Maybe rained 25% of the days. Darker and colder than we are used to but it's novelty for us.

French people - Well you know it was mostly good. The lady at the jamon counter in epicerie was unaccomodating in terms of tasting. My wife also got scolded by the baker when she put a wet bag on the bread counter when she dropped something. But that was pretty much it. This guy let us cut in line for the train ticket on the way to the airport. We made a real French friend, a business acquaintance. He and his wife live in London though he was in Paris for the break. We ate out a few times and he took us to a classical concert at the St Germain church. My wife thought his dad,80, was very charming, kissed her hand when they said goodbye. Apparently he dated Ursula Andres (one of the bond girls).

Overall - A really happy trip, would have been so even if we had only eaten at Mcd. We were all together. My son from NY is finding his way, my wife and two other boys laughing with him, college admission, business cares set aside. Moments that make you pause, bow your head and give silent thanks.

Also, thanks for all the great suggestions.

Jan 12, 2013
jojogumabew in France

Help planning Christmas 2012 - 2 weeks in Paris with a kitchen

You've reminded me to start my diet. I would like to end the year without gaining any weight.

Hmm japanese ingredients. Actually basic japanese is doable in an apartment. I learned from my Japanese friend. Just need to get really great fish, rice, vinegar (to season the sushi rice), soy sauce, some nori and a wasabi tube. But nothing deepfried.

Sep 16, 2012
jojogumabew in France

Help planning Christmas 2012 - 2 weeks in Paris with a kitchen

Thanks Nancy. Wilson is a bit far, but I've heard a lot about it and I plan to make the trip.

Sep 16, 2012
jojogumabew in France

Help planning Christmas 2012 - 2 weeks in Paris with a kitchen

Ptipois, what's the best way to roast a french chicken? 45-50mins at 350F? or 425 for 15 mins, then finish at 325? Or start low 325 and 10 minutes at 425 at the end? I guess it will depend on the size. I baste every 15 mins or so? And should I flip (breast side down/breast side up) in the middle?

Actually, goose I've never been able to do well. In case I find one, will the long slow roast (4-5 hours at very low temp, 300) plus 10-15 minutes at 425 work? This is how I do duck and it works very well, juicy, tender, crisp skin (punctured/scored many times).

Thanks!

Sep 16, 2012
jojogumabew in France

Help planning Christmas 2012 - 2 weeks in Paris with a kitchen

"I would agree that you're going overboard with planning. It's your vacation!"

Yes. We realized we like doing research. When are there, we choose what seems most interesting from our menu of choices. Even though it takes more effort, somehow it's more relaxing for us than just going with the flow.

It's been fun planning this, especially with everyone's advice. I've actually been avoiding work. I think I have some really great options now, which I've also inputted into our map.

Thanks!

Sep 16, 2012
jojogumabew in France

Help planning Christmas 2012 - 2 weeks in Paris with a kitchen

Wine in Manila is 70-100% more than comparable wines in the US (good rum on the other hand is ridiculously cheap). Well I don't mind spending less.

No one seems in favor of the car.

Sep 16, 2012
jojogumabew in France

Apartment or Hotel? How's a diner to choose?

Ooh, I like this thread. Count me in the apartment camp.

Some memorable meals:

1) Seafood risotto after a trip to Rialto market in Venice
2) Aged ribeye from Borough market in London
3) Burrata with ripe tomatoes and basil and plate of lampredotti from Florence mercato
4) Two kinds of temaki sushi, small tuna slivers and chopped tuna with green onions, from a chunk of blue fin tuna belly bought from Tsukiji market + a live alaskan king crab boiled and served with some reduced broth with butter and lemon, also from tsukiji. (this was actually at my friend's parent's house).
5) Freshly picked corn kept on ice in NYC.

Best apartment. London apartment owned by an architect converted from an old warehouse, right on the thames river.

If left on their own, I suspect my wife and kids would be just as happy in a hotel or still in an apartment, but mainly with take out.

Agree on South East Asia (and Hong Kong and China) as exceptions.

Sep 16, 2012
jojogumabew in France

Help planning Christmas 2012 - 2 weeks in Paris with a kitchen

This is from Ptipois on the other board. She says Vietnamese is better in Paris than Ramen. I've actually had good ramen in Paris. But having had great ramen in Osaka recently, maybe it was just average but it hit the spot on a cold day. Anyway:

"Vietnamese restaurants: try Pho Mui on avenue de Choisy, Pho Bida Vietnam on rue Nationale. The lower part of avenue de Choisy is more Cambodian. As for Laotian food, think Isaan food from Northeastern Thailand. They are identical. Actually many (if not all) restaurants claiming to be "Thai" in Paris are actually run by Lao people. My favorites are Lao Thai, rue de Tolbiac, and Lao Viet, boulevard Massena."

For ramen, on my map:

Kunitoraya
46 reviews
39 Rue Sainte-Anne
75001 Paris, France
01 47 03 33 65
kunitoraya.com

Kintaro
38 reviews
24 Rue Saint-Augustin
75002 Paris, France
01 47 42 13 14
kintaro.lamen.pagesperso-or...

I put the places we are interested in on a google map. If we are nearby, then it's easy to find with an unlocked iphone (i buy a local sim).

Sep 16, 2012
jojogumabew in France

Help planning Christmas 2012 - 2 weeks in Paris with a kitchen

"don't over-estimate the cooking equipment in your rental."

Josette, my landlady, says kitchen's complete and has a good oven. She seems to go out of her way to be helpful. So I am hopeful. But, I always bring a small sharp knife (dull knife a pet peeve).

"Also, you can buy stunning pastries (including stellar tarte tatin)."

I assure you we will hit the pastries hard:) You are right. Maybe tarte tatin is overkill on vacation. But, if I get bored...

"Finally, after a day of art, architecture and walking, etc. (and your daily shopping for you" you may be exhausted and not want to cook such ambitious menus."

Will cook only 1 or 2 items per meal and a salad. Most of the items are really not hard and I'll have help.

"so if you are cooking extra . . ."

Sure, potluck:)

"However, what about leaving some options open and make up your mind from all the beautiful, unexpected things you'll come across at markets and in shops?"

Ptipois, Phild, Sunshine absolutely. That's why I'm really looking forward to the trip. I will get what looks good and adjust.

So lower and slower on the chickens + basting?

I like the suggestion on the veal chop with the coquilette pasta. I expect that will be a hit. Medium rare ok on veal? Do you put grated cheese on the pasta also?

I would like to try the fish this trip. Normally we just go for the shellfish. But I'll see what looks good. Any kinds of fish I should look out for? My friend says winter is the best time for seafood (in japan anyway).

"No cherry clafoutis because no cherries." Aww.

Charcellay, Josette also recommended it. Thanks.

" in Paris could mean only driving around the neighbourhood for 40 minutes"

On driving out of paris, we haven't decided. If we do decide to rent a car, it costs almost the same to rent a car for one day as it is for three days. Excluding parking of course. It seems like a waste to rent just for day. Since we're five, the train is only a little bit less expensive (for example if we go to Rouen). Decisions... My wife probably would rather go to the flea markets.

Thanks!

Sep 16, 2012
jojogumabew in France

Help planning Christmas 2012 - 2 weeks in Paris with a kitchen

My landlady said she'll set up a Christmas tree for us and will also show us a shop where we can buy truffles. She also said it's not so hard to find parking in our area.

I think I am going overboard on the food planning, but this is what we plan to eat in the apartment:

Truffle Dishes – fresh truffle peeled and shaved (peels crushed with a little salt and mixed with olive oil for a dressing)
• Soft scrambled eggs w truffles
• Truffle risotto (with a little pancetta, parmiggiano reggiano, butter, and a creamy cheese like taleggio or brie)
• Beef carpaccio on arugula/greens with some chopped ripe tomatoes and drizzled with truffled olive oil, and with shaved parmiggiano, and lemon
• Poached langoustine with truffled olive oi + salad

Poultry
• Two kinds of roast chicken (cou cou and landes), salted a few hours ahead, brought to room temperature, spatchcocked, rubbed with butter and roasted at high heat
• Guinea hen browned and braised with choucroute and sausages
• Bresse chicken with cream and mixed mushrooms (morels or porcini or button) and parsley

Quickie dishes or bought from market
• Foie gras (whole) semi-cooked served with some fruit sauce on the side (cherries, vinegar, wine, sugar reduced)
• Roast quail
• Duck confit (from a big can) crisped on a pan + salad
• Hard and soft raw milk cheeses, dried salami, ham, fruits, bread and butter
• Pizza (frozen) but baked with added cheese and fresh bell peppers, salami or anchovies
• Cassoulet
• Quiche if freshly baked
• Mixed panfried sausages (pork, boudin noir)
• Lots of salad (nicoise, walnut + pears + blue cheese, etc)
• Grilled cheese sandwich with butter and pinch of sugar

Sea food
• If sushi grade available – fresh raw sardines marinated in lemon and olive oil or tuna tartar
• Lobster and clams in cream sauce
• Razor clams or mussels with garlic and white wine
• Ice cold oysters with hot sauce or mignonette
• Scallops with coral seared in butter
• Pot of poached langoustines

Beef/Pork
• Pan fried veal chops
• Pot au feu
• Small rib roast or striploin roast with garlic and rock salt

Leftovers
• Onion soup w toast and gruyere
• Chicken soup and veggies
• Roast beef sandwich

Vegetables – lots of salads, vegetables, sliced tomato

Desserts and pastries
• Apple tart, maybe will try to make tarte tatin with ice cream or crème fraiche
• Ripe pears and other fruit
• Cherry clafoutis, crème caramel, pistachio custard

Breakfast
• Croissants, pan choclat, fruit and yogurt and coffee or tea
• Soft-boiled eggs

Good bread and butter

Wine (20-50e per bottle). I let my younger kids taste but not have their own glass.

Seems like a lot but really it's over two weeks. My kids are starting to like cooking so I plan to assign a meal or two. Luckily my wife finds washing relaxing.

Sep 14, 2012
jojogumabew in France

Help planning Christmas 2012 - 2 weeks in Paris with a kitchen

I've never been and will make it a point to go.

We've gone go to Fauchon and Hediard a few times just to look, but I don't see how I could ever really shop there.

We've stayed before in a decent apartment right above the Rue Cler/Rue grenelle market. We all enjoyed it and there was a great boulangerie nearby. But we found that area a bit far from where the more interesting things/shops (to us) were.

Sep 06, 2012
jojogumabew in France

Help planning Christmas 2012 - 2 weeks in Paris with a kitchen

'Get the real foie gras, not foie gras terrine, god forbid !"

Do you mean the whole uncooked foie liver, that you need to de-vein and soak in milk and after pan fry, bake or poach?

Do french people do that at home?

Sep 06, 2012
jojogumabew in France

Help planning Christmas 2012 - 2 weeks in Paris with a kitchen

Am curious what street food at St Sulpice garners a secret liking? I think I will be obliged by my family to do the Christmas market thing. But, yes, I know what you mean.

But the Alsatian market sounds good. I like Alsace wine.

Sep 06, 2012
jojogumabew in France

Help planning Christmas 2012 - 2 weeks in Paris with a kitchen

I checked out that Beurre Bordier. Where do you get that?

Ok wll sprinkle it on foie. So I buy a mi-cuit foie terrine?

Sep 06, 2012
jojogumabew in France

Help planning Christmas 2012 - 2 weeks in Paris with a kitchen

Ok guys. I give up and will buy salt when I get there :)

Anyway, you've all given me great advice. If you are ever going to Manila and need any assistance or would like a free beer, please let me know.

Sep 06, 2012
jojogumabew in France

Help planning Christmas 2012 - 2 weeks in Paris with a kitchen

Ooh sorry. I think my response sounded abrupt. But am interested to know what it's best for. Thanks!

Sep 05, 2012
jojogumabew in France

Help planning Christmas 2012 - 2 weeks in Paris with a kitchen

Hi Nancy, what do you use the fleur de sel for that makes it especially worthwhile? I just buy coarse sea salt because I need a lot. I cook regularly for 5 people several times a week and not too infrequently for more people.

Sep 05, 2012
jojogumabew in France

Help planning Christmas 2012 - 2 weeks in Paris with a kitchen

Thanks Sunshine. We arrive the 21st. I suppose the 22nd and 23rd will already be a madhouse? I plan to go very early just as the markets open. Is that 7 or 8am?

Sep 05, 2012
jojogumabew in France

Help planning Christmas 2012 - 2 weeks in Paris with a kitchen

P, P, P (Ptipois, Parigi, Parnassien)

Hmm okay. That's very good advice. Its good to know that it's ok to ask to handle and smell. A bit complicated. Well, I did not expect it to be so easy.

Assuming I am successful, to peel or not to peel? Am inclined not to. And what to do with it? Omelette, risotto, pasta or with the expensive chicken. Probably too much to risk in one meal. Or mix some trimmings with olive oil and dress sea food?

Also do you mind my asking, do French people really buy a lot of truffles and is it seen as a worthwhile? For an omelette how much do you use? One whole?

What is a typical French christmas dinner like at home?

Thanks again.

DS86. We're leaving Jan 3. Seems tight, but normally the day before we leave I will be shopping for food to take home. I can post or email how I do.

Sep 05, 2012
jojogumabew in France

Help planning Christmas 2012 - 2 weeks in Paris with a kitchen

"A huge percentage of the moving cars in Paris are not going somewhere. They are just going round and round looking to park."

This was quite amusing.

I like the baker and parisians at work suggestion. I am somewhat determined to get a brand name starter. I think it makes for a good story. I will pass on slow trav to my wife. So far I've done all the trip planning. But she intends to take french language lessons at Alliance with a friend of ours. I've seen this before though and nothing happened.

Paris Omaha. Yes, maybe a bit daunting especially with a stop over in Rouen. If we just walk around Rouen, maybe taking the train is better than getting a car. If we get a car, a 3 day rental is practically the same cost as a one day rental. But there is the parking as you say.

Sep 05, 2012
jojogumabew in France

Help planning Christmas 2012 - 2 weeks in Paris with a kitchen

Parigi,

I think that's a good plan for the chicken roasting part of our tour. Well we're five so I think I can try several kinds. I've started my diet (no carbs) so I can eat well by year end.

I am now fixated on getting some dough starter from Poilane or another good baker (as well as a bakery visit). Would appreciate any thoughts you have on this. Otherwise, my plan is to visit the baker daily and have my wife (much more charming than me) sweet talk them.

We've also decided to ditch Versailles (where we've been) and maybe go to Rouen and maybe Giverny or WWII memorials on Omaha Beach. Not sure if this is doable on a day trip, or how street parking is in Paris where we are in case I have to keep the car overnight. Have to ask my landlord.

If you can manage to sneak in the thread some nonfood suggestions for my wife (window shopping, antiques, fabric - for me discounted is better) I would also appreciate it.

Sep 05, 2012
jojogumabew in France

Help planning Christmas 2012 - 2 weeks in Paris with a kitchen

Yes I thought it was scandalous. Thank you. That's quite useful. I will check it out. I read prices in the South were around 800-900e per kg. So 2x that in Paris I thought was kinda fair. Att 4x, I would feel violated. If there no other choice I would still consider it. But thanks. It appears there are alternatives.

Sep 05, 2012
jojogumabew in France

Help planning Christmas 2012 - 2 weeks in Paris with a kitchen

On the maison de truffe website it's 165euro for 50g sold seasonally. It's feasible if we get only one but when I brought up the idea of two, my wife raised her eyebrow. I was half thinking of taking the tvg to carpentras and getting a handful.

Sep 04, 2012
jojogumabew in France

Help planning Christmas 2012 - 2 weeks in Paris with a kitchen

Thanks! I will look for that. Any idea on prices? My only experience with a fresh one was in Florence Mercato and it was 50 euro for a nugget.

Sep 04, 2012
jojogumabew in France

Help planning Christmas 2012 - 2 weeks in Paris with a kitchen

John,

Ah I love quail and will look for that. The last time we found it, they were the last 2 and there were 5 of us.

I got some more Asian suggestions from Ptitpois. I suspect if we eat there too often, I will get scolded by this board.

I would really like to see the basement bakery at Poilane though and maybe bring
home some starter dough.

I think I like that idea. If I were to impose, would you have an idea of the best time so it's least bothersome to the bakery?

Sep 04, 2012
jojogumabew in France

Help planning Christmas 2012 - 2 weeks in Paris with a kitchen

Lagatta, thanks! We like vietnamese. Ptipois on the other board also suggested it and gave me some names. She said she''s from the fifth.

Sep 04, 2012
jojogumabew in France

Help planning Christmas 2012 - 2 weeks in Paris with a kitchen

No offense and I didn't think that was your intention. It was a fair point.

I appreciate the comments on value. This is a talk I have with my children, knowing the value of money. Hence, my insistence on somewhat ridiculous things, like bringing the salt and pepper to Paris. It does not mean we deprive ourselves of great experiences or some things that are meaningful to us.

Well you know I could go on and on about this topic.

But....that's how I justify the 40euro chicken - an affordable luxury, and a unique experience, hopefully worthwhile when cooked properly, and better than 100e if we bought it in the restaurant.

Sep 04, 2012
jojogumabew in France

Help planning Christmas 2012 - 2 weeks in Paris with a kitchen

Thanks John.

Hmm ok. I think meant Sola. I better check the address as well. L'as du fallafel my friend said was good. I've never had it.

Sep 03, 2012
jojogumabew in France

Help planning Christmas 2012 - 2 weeks in Paris with a kitchen

Parnassien,

Thanks very much for the excellent information and the detail is much appreciated. Rue da Guerre and the buses sound good. Paris metro gets the job done, but is not our favorite either. I was thinking of buying tickets for Velib, but we have never biked in winter. Might be slippery also if it rains. Bus 82 to wilson we'll do for sure.

I was actually looking at the pictures in Hugo Desnoyer's website trying to figure out what prices are in Paris now. I am glad it's not just me who finds it high. Still we'll probably try it out, what the heck. Thanks also for the truffle info. I am confident it will be shocking also. I am sure it will be a bargain vs eating it in a fancy restaurant.

You've actually hit on what we want to do most of the time, which is nothing:) Much better than the vacation where you are more tired at the end than at the beginning.

Best wishes.

Sep 03, 2012
jojogumabew in France

Help planning Christmas 2012 - 2 weeks in Paris with a kitchen

Dnd, I can afford it. It's going to be less expensive than if five of us eat it in a nice restaurant. Whether I can do it justice in the kitchen is another matter: But I shall do my best:)

I thought about your post though. I realize I hardly say this: I am very grateful for what I have in life, foremost my wife and kids and our health (knock on wood). While not a magic carpet ride and there is still hard work and sleepless nights, I'm quite fortunate. I've gone to a great school in the US, gotten good employment, and now own part of a small business. I can send my kids to school in America on my own steam and give them the same opportunity I've had. My work is interesting and I have some control over my time. Before I give the wrong impression, it's all pretty modest. But still, I think it's as much as one can expect. Anyway, as my kids grow older and start leaving us, I want to celebrate the times all of us can be together.

But admittedly the chicken is quite expensive and it better be a darn good.

On French food fatigue, believe me I am better than all my friends save one who grew up in Europe. Once or twice in 40 meals is not so bad.

Thanks!

Sep 03, 2012
jojogumabew in France