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Trip report: A. Noste, Les Déserteurs, Bistrot des Capucines, Le Lulli, Mangetout, La Vache et le Cuisiner, Le Pramil, Stéphane Martin

Hi Mikey - I think an hour and a half would be fine for a short visit to Giverny. Plenty of time to walk around the gardens and even maybe a quick look at Monet's home. But since the gardens don't open until 9:30am, it would be really tight to catch that 10:53 train. I recall it took about 20 minutes to drive from Vernon to Giverny. We had friends pick us up, but there is a bus shuttle that provides the connection, or you could take a taxi. So taking the 12:53pm train may be the safer bet. Then book the latest lunch you can at Hugo Desnoyer - I think they serve until 3pm, but take into account that they're way out in the 16th. In any case you'll be famished when you arrive there which would be a good thing. And no need to plan on dinner that evening! As much as I love Le Lulli, their lunch hours are probably more traditional.

Mar 20, 2015
sfcarole in France

Specific Paris Sunday Question

With your bottle of Champagne from Nicolas, why not head over to Huîtrerie Régis (near metro Mabillon) for a platter of oysters and charcuterie to take away. They are open Sunday evenings from 6:30 to 10:30, and would probably sell you some bread as well.

Mar 20, 2015
sfcarole in France

Trip report: A. Noste, Les Déserteurs, Bistrot des Capucines, Le Lulli, Mangetout, La Vache et le Cuisiner, Le Pramil, Stéphane Martin

Your wonderful report reminded me how much we enjoyed Les Deserteurs last October. It was our last meal of the trip and, like you, I can't wait to return. Your review has convinced me to put it at the head of the list for next fall and go for the full six courses.

Mar 20, 2015
sfcarole in France

Restaurant Roulette in Paris

And don't forget Uber (UberPop and UberX being less expensive), if you intend to have your phone activated.

Mar 11, 2015
sfcarole in France

Restaurant Roulette in Paris

The Louvre is also open Wednesday night. One of our favorite things to do is visit at around 7-7:30 Wed. and wander around the empty rooms until the guards kick us out, then go to dinner. Of course, this means we have to get back to our apartment by 4pm for a sufficient amount of toes up time. ;

Mar 11, 2015
sfcarole in France

Restaurant Roulette in Paris

Mangeur - agree completely. And depending on the kick back time sometimes we don't make it out 'til 9 or later. All the better to avoid PYs or get tables without reservations.

Mar 11, 2015
sfcarole in France

Books, Mostly About Food, Food, Delicious Food in Paris and Brussels

Aside from the Elizabeth David books (French Provincial Cooking & French Country Cooking especially, I also recommend Waverley Root's The Food of France. Then there is Paris in a Basket by Meyer and Smith. Lots of history & lore about the markets of Paris, plus great photos. (Just noticed a bargain price for it on Amazon).

Feb 21, 2015
sfcarole in France

Knives for a Paris rental kitchen

Top of my list when we're in Paris in September.

Feb 16, 2015
sfcarole in France

Knives for a Paris rental kitchen

My first carbon steel folder will be here soon. With global warming I'm hoping for more picnics in San Francisco.

Feb 15, 2015
sfcarole in France

Knives for a Paris rental kitchen

Note to self: throw a paring knife in the glove compartment.

Feb 15, 2015
sfcarole in France

Knives for a Paris rental kitchen

And here I thought I had a well-equipped kitchen. Guess I've been living under a rock, knife-wise. Will look for the #12 carbon steel.

Feb 15, 2015
sfcarole in France

Paris trip report - end of December 2014/January 2015

Thank you for the great report! It brought back many memories from last fall, and even better gave me some new ideas for later this year. I'm always on the hunt for a great walnut bread, so a stop at Landemaine is on the list, and the raspberry/champagne confiture sounds irresistible.

Feb 08, 2015
sfcarole in France

Aux Enfants Gates - What A sigh of Pleasure

What a lovely commentary! Sounds like a perfect evening---one of
those nights which seem to happen more often when we throw our expectations out the window. I'm putting AEG on the list for next fall.

Feb 01, 2015
sfcarole in France
1

Foraging in the 5th?

Ahhh, les Arènes de Lutèce. I have loved this spot since my student days. Always a spot to have a private picnic. And don't forget Grégory Renard for macarons and chocolate on 35 rue Daubenton.

Feb 01, 2015
sfcarole in France

I am in sympathy with my Parisian food lovers

Jan 12, 2015
sfcarole in France
1

I am in sympathy with my Parisian food lovers

My heart goes out to all of you, and I will be with you in spirit tomorrow. In these sad times nous sommes tous Français. Last night at Jardinière this was all my friends talked about, while sharing a bit of French foie gras and a bottle of Meursault.

Jan 10, 2015
sfcarole in France
1

Good news for all foie gras lovers

Maybe this exciting news in California does not strictly relate to France, but I couldn't help sharing it with all of you. A U.S. federal judge ruled today that California's two year ban on foie gras is unconstitutional since it is preempted by federal laws regulating poultry products. So, as the Mercury News aptly put it, "break out that bottle of Sauternes and celebrate"!!!!!!

http://www.nytimes.com/2015/01/08/us/...

http://www.mercurynews.com/crime-cour...

Jan 07, 2015
sfcarole in France
1

Flour + Water v. Central Kitchen [San Francisco]

I wonder if the new chef has continued to rework his "team". We're going back next week with another couple to see if it's really that good. Will report back.

Flour + Water v. Central Kitchen [San Francisco]

Central Kitchen would be my choice, as much as I love the pasta at F+W. My husband and I were at CK for dinner last night. A day before we asked to increase our rez to 4, but they said they were fully booked for our 7pm slot. But that evening we noticed there were a few empty tables. However, the kitchen was working hard. That tells me they're trying to manage their reservations based on the meals they can put out. A good thing.

The music was a bit loud for us (mainly due to a vocalist with a high voice), so they changed the track and it got quieter. Very accommodating. In fact, service from everyone throughout couldn't have been more friendly, helpful or attentive. Everything was well paced and came out piping hot.

Now for the food. This was our first time so I had no idea what to expect. We started with their Cured Trout, shared the Spaghetti Nero, and then had the Pot Roast and Black Cod for mains. Oh god, everything was unbelievably good. The spaghetti with crab was silky and delicious, with a hint of spiciness. Both the pot roast and cod were cooked perfectly and meltingly tender. I'm on Open Table this morning to rebook.

I usually pass on dessert, but everything was done so well I thought it was a good time to make an exception. Chocolate custard for H and lemon pepper poundcake for me. Again, a hit. I'm not easily impressed, but CK's food has a definite wow-factor.

Please (oh please) review/comment on our hurriedly cobbled list....

Ah, but the sole purpose of this list is tell you the hours and address of any market you may be near, not to tell you where to go. Very helpful info. But rue Montorgueil and even rue Réaumur may well be your best bets.

Dec 11, 2014
sfcarole in France

Please (oh please) review/comment on our hurriedly cobbled list....

Your week sounds wonderful! We spent a month this fall visiting markets everyday. So many of them had a beautiful selection of prepared foods—tagines, stews, cooked veggies, patés, mousses, smoked fish—that we often remarked how interesting it would be to come to Paris and eat only what one finds in the markets. The Marché d’Aligre (12th) is fabulous, the Marché Bastille (11th) is huge and the Marché Président Wilson (16th) is selective, but this time of year the covered markets might be more inviting, such as the Marché Couvert d’Aligre, M.C. des Enfants Rouges (3rd), M.C. Saint-Quintin and M.C. Saint-Martin, plus others you can find on this handy list: http://marche.equipement.paris.fr/tou...

Dec 10, 2014
sfcarole in France

Yam'Tcha bao-mania sounds too good to be true

Has anyone tried this yet? http://lefooding.com/en/restaurants/r...

Dec 06, 2014
sfcarole in France

Table d'Aki

Beam me up Scotty.

Dec 06, 2014
sfcarole in France

Paris from mid-September to mid-October!

Btw, your questions are likely to get more attention if you post separately or on the NYE link above or one of the other posts for late December-early January options. You can find those by using the search function and limit search to this board.

Dec 06, 2014
sfcarole in France

Paris from mid-September to mid-October!

I know I posted a reply here last night but somehow it didn't appear. Haven't been to Central Kitchen but we're going next week for R's birthday. I love Range, a frequent stop for out of town guests.

Dec 06, 2014
sfcarole in France

Paris from mid-September to mid-October!

Slight typo there - it's A. Noste at 6 bis rue du 4 septembre.

Dec 05, 2014
sfcarole in France

Paris from mid-September to mid-October!

Re NYE, check out this thread which has some interesting suggestions, including Le Timbre that JT mentions below: http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/9965...

But whatever you do, you should probably move fast. Maybe call the concierge at your hotel to ask them to book for you or call the restaurants yourself. Many speak English. (But don't assume; better to ask first).

Or perhaps check out La Fourchette.com. It's like opentable. A quick look for NYE revealed a number of faves including Au Bon Coin (and I can't think of a better NYE's spot), Le Bistrot du Maquis, Le Sergent Recruteur, Les Climats (but pricey NYE menu) and a few others frequently mentioned here. Just plunge in and you're done.

Dec 05, 2014
sfcarole in France

Paris from mid-September to mid-October!

You'll love le Bat and l'Assiette. Interesting you're thinking of Frank Enee since that's on my list for next year.

One favorite on this board is Le Galopin. You might read this thread: http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/9842...

All the places you mentioned in San Francisco are places I love too. And considering how noisy A16 can be, you might not mind Bones as much as I did. It's another favorite of many who post here. You also might try a Noste for lunch downstairs for some interesting tapas like plates. Not sure what's available the four nights you're in Paris, but check these. I'll think of more later...

Dec 05, 2014
sfcarole in France

Restaurants near musee d'orsay

And don't forget to stop in for afternoon tea or a chocolat chaud or gifts to take home (or to your apartment!) at the new Jacques Genin shop on the SE corner of rue du Bac and rue de Varenne. Many of us can't leave town without a good supply of the mango-passionfruit caramels and some pâte de fruit.

Dec 03, 2014
sfcarole in France

Restaurants near musee d'orsay

And there's also Le 122 which is a great bargain at lunchtime and only a few blocks away.

Nov 29, 2014
sfcarole in France