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Sapporo - Nijo Market advice?

I'm headed to Sapporo in September. My Japanese colleague has booked dinner at a top sushi place, but I'd like to have early morning, jet-lagged breakfast at Nijo Market. As context, I love going to Tsukiji early morning on Tokyo trips for sushi, the tamago stands, tempura anago, and that really old coffee lady.

I've read about a vendor that sells fresh uni right out of the shell... that sounds great. Is that easy to find in the market? Also, any specific suggestions for a donburi place? Any other chow-ish must-dos in the market? Thanks!

Aug 15, 2015
jmarek in Japan

Sobahiyamugisagatani in Hamamatsucho

Tabelog in English is a wonderful thing!

After my business meetings yesterday, I went to Hamamatsucho to walk around the Kyu-Shiba-Rikyu garden right next to the station (well worth visiting). Looking on Tabelog for places on the walk back to the hotel, I found this pretty little soba restaurant.

After ordering via ticket machine (matching the kanji from the plastic food), you walk in to the sound of the mill grinding buckwheat. Zaru soba was cut a little wide. I loved the elastic texture of the noodles. Came with a little pitcher of soba-yu that was deeply buckwheat-y. I had a combo with oyakodon, which was fine but not special. It's the kind of place you find so often in Japan that does one thing really carefully and very well.

May 21, 2015
jmarek in Japan

ISO Bay Area restaurants with delicious grilled octopus preparations.

Artisan Bistro in Lafayette has a good one. It is sous vide then charred - which in general I think creates a great texture and flavor. Have to try that at home...

May 19, 2015
jmarek in San Francisco Bay Area

Casual Post-Flight Restaurant in Tennoji, Osaka

I'll be flying into KIX and staying at Tennoji for a night. I'm looking for a quick, casual early dinner spot in/near Tennoji Station. Maybe ramen, udon, sushi, or okanomiyaki?

As a comparable, when I fly into Narita and take the NEX, I'll usually go to Ramen Street or the Standing Sushi Bar at Tokyo Station.

Feb 13, 2015
jmarek in Japan

Where to buy Foie gras in East Bay?

That website is for Mirepoix. We keep a package of their frozen portioned slices of raw foie gras in our freezer, and it is delicious and easy to work with (thaw and quickly sear). As I understand it, the sale takes place in their shop in Nevada and they had no issue shipping it to us in the Bay Area.

Dec 23, 2014
jmarek in San Francisco Bay Area

Hash : SFBA Dish of the Month October 2014

Best I've had in the Bay Area is actually at Orinda Village Cafe in Orinda. Crispy and flavorful with nice chunks of house corned beef - I always get it ith 2 eggs poached. Better than any I've had at the typical brunch places in Oakland.

(The hand sliced bacon is great too.)

Oct 28, 2014
jmarek in San Francisco Bay Area

Tsukiji outer market - recommended vendors?

For something completely different, and very cool, stop into Amakane Coffee if you are there when she is open. A wonderful 80-something year old woman will serve you a delicious cup of coffee in a very tiny shop for 250 yen. I think she is only open Saturday morning and one day during the week (I was there this past Saturday).

Oct 28, 2014
jmarek in Japan


Just make sure if you go to Namjatown, you also go to the dessert area. One place has all kinds of crazy Japanese ice cream flavors (think "miso ramen" or "parmesan cheese"), and a sampler platter where you can try a bunch. My wife picked out 2 different samplers and then my kids and I tried to guess the flavors blind. Not the best ice cream to be sure, but a fun and quintessentially Japanese food experience.

Oct 27, 2014
jmarek in Japan

Kushiro (Marunouchi) or Kaba (Kyobashi)

As promised, a report back:
My friend's flight was delayed so I ended up going to Kushiro alone. I loved the location. A pretty elegant interior and counter seating with a view of the chefs which is always nice as a solo diner. The adjoining roof garden is lovely as well.

I had the 8 dish set menu plus an order of charcoal-grilled botan-ebi and a Hokkaido sake sampler.

The botan-ebi were amazing -- perhaps the best shrimp I've ever had. They were grilled whole, filled with roe, sweet with a hint of smoke and tons of flavor in the heads. The only problem is that I have no idea how I was supposed to eat them delicately. I had to use my hands... the server ended up bringing me a second oshibori.

The set menu was good but not phenomenal. The highlights were:
- tempura: a crab leg and a maitake mushroom. The mushroom was the best thing in the set, really flavorful and fried perfectly
- salad with anago, cubes of tamago-yaki, and green beans. Really good combination of flavors and textures
- chawan mushi with corn and uni: well-made version, exactly as it sounds

Thank you for the recommendation.

Oct 27, 2014
jmarek in Japan

Four Great Noodles around Tokyo

I've been on about a dozen trips from SF to Tokyo over the past 18 months, and I'm constantly seeking out new noodle places around Tokyo. I wanted to post on a few I've liked best and to hear if others have must-tries outside of the usual suspects.

Ramen: of course there is Ramen Street at Tokyo Station and Shinagawa Station, but outside of those:
- Ramen Bario in Toranamon: This is the richest, most porky soup I've ever tried, probably because it looked like they were grating pork fat into the bowl (oh yes...). The noodles were slightly thick and chewy, which I love. I ate here at 11:30am and I literally couldn't eat the rest of the day (and probably didn't need to given the calorie load), but man it was good.
- Sharin in Otemachi, specifically Marunouchi Eiraku (iiyo!!): tsukemen with a great fishy-porky broth (maybe mackerel-based?). This is my favorite tsukemen but doesn't seem to fill up like more popular places.

Soba: much of the best I've had is in the mountains, but in Tokyo:
- Soba Jiro (Giro?) in Akasaka-Mitsuke. On Google this is marked 手打ち蕎麦GIRO. They have a tsukemen-style soba with handmade thick soba noodles that was amazing (I like thick, chewy noodles). The dipping soup has ajitama and pork belly like tsukemen ramen. I also went once for dinner and got other things, but the dipping soba was the best.
- Muho in Shirokane-Takanawa: pretty little shop with great soba. I've had kamo namban and zaru soba - both are great. Haven't tried their udon yet.

Would love to hear of others' favorites off the beaten path!

Oct 23, 2014
jmarek in Japan

Kushiro (Marunouchi) or Kaba (Kyobashi)

My friend and I would like to go an izakaya near Kyobashi early evening this coming Friday - probably around 5 or 5:30. My friend will have just flown in from SF so need to stay on the early side.

Based on Robb S's awesome site plus chowhound, Kushiro and Kaba look great, with maybe a leaning towards Kushiro. My questions are:
- would you recommend one of these places in particular?
- will we need a reservation or is walk in fine that early?
- any particular "must order" dishes for late October?

I will follow up with a report once we go!

Oct 21, 2014
jmarek in Japan

What's with all the lining up for hours for miserable, crappy food?

The Garrett popcorn lines are baffling to me. The line at Tokyo Station is consistently longer than any of the Ramen Street lines. For a place that reminds me of O'Hare airport (where they've had a stand for many years and I've never once seen a line).

Sep 22, 2014
jmarek in Japan

Okonomiyaki: SFBA Dish of the Month August 2014

When I had it in Hiroshima, it was very different. No yamaimo (mountain potato), but it had noodles and an egg (almost like a thin omelet) on one side. Really good. Perhaps the Hiroshima-style is spreading, as it was also on the menu (along with the traditional Osaka style) at the two places we had okonomiyaki in Osaka.

I'd love to know if there is any of the Hiroshima style in the Bay Area.

Aug 02, 2014
jmarek in San Francisco Bay Area

Looking for lunch delivery in the Financial District [San Francisco]

We've been getting some really good food from Caviar. They'll even deliver from Shanghai Dumpling King to the Financial District.

Value restaurants in Tokyo

Sushi Otaku: FWIW, I make regular business trips from SF to Tokyo, and I am also looking for new places like the OP describes. I'd love to see your list if you don't mind posting it! So maybe one of those who Robb S is describing :)

Jun 26, 2014
jmarek in Japan

Ischia help requested

Bumping an old thread... but in case others have the same basic request. We were in Italy 3.5 weeks in May and one of the best things we ate was the Coniglio all'Ischitana at La Bussola in Forio, Ischia. We had it in 2 courses -- the rabbit sauce with pasta first, bursting with herbs and rabbit flavor. Then the whole rabbit in pieces as the second course. I still dream of that dish -- will have to try to recreate at home.

Jun 20, 2014
jmarek in Italy

Recs for Culinary Tour of Puglia

We were in Puglia last month and had a wonderful time. We didn't take a tour... but here are some ideas for you anyway.

I highly recommend the tour at Masseria Brancati outside of Ostuni. It's an olive oil producer with the oldest trees dating back 3000 years and a fascinating underground production facility that pre-dates the Romans. Great olive oil to taste as well. If you like food and history, it's perfect.

If you go to the Castellana Grotte caves (which are worth seeing), we found an awesome bakery nearby, Panificio Mancini. It looks pretty industrial on the outside but the bread stuffed with anchovy, caramelized onions, and olives was one of the best things I ate in Puglia. The kids loved the stuffed-to-order nutella cornetti.

Eat as much stracciatella and burrata as you can. Finally, make sure you go to Matera -- amazing small city with great food and warm people. The pictures you find don't do justice to how beautiful it is.

Jun 20, 2014
jmarek in Italy

Sfogliatelle/Focaccia at 54 Mint Il Forno, Walnut Creek

Yes, bakery case with counter service and some very casual seating.

Jun 18, 2014
jmarek in San Francisco Bay Area

Ike's at Stanford -- Closed

Yes, I still think about that place 19 years later! In the psych building, next door to Math Corner. Jordan Hall Café. The curries and the chicken soup were cheap and awesome, and as a math major it was so convenient.

Jun 14, 2014
jmarek in San Francisco Bay Area

Sfogliatelle/Focaccia at 54 Mint Il Forno, Walnut Creek

54 Mint Il Forno soft opened in early May. Grand opening is next week, June 19 in the evening. I'm assuming this is related to 54 Mint in SF and totally unrelated to Il Fornaio... but regardless the name is confusing.

This place is a winner.

Got the sfogliatella this morning. We just returned from Naples so seeing these anywhere near home is a joy! It was a very good rendition, with great crunchy thin layers of the pastry and great flavor on the filling. The filling was a touch less tender than the best. I think it had small bits of orange peel but no chunks of candied orange. This would hold its own in Naples, though wouldn't compete with the very best.

The focaccia was very good -- I'd say it was similar to what we had in Puglia.

Tried a sample of ricotta almond cake that was fantastic as well.

They also have a $2 deal on some items after 2pm.

Jun 11, 2014
jmarek in San Francisco Bay Area

Tokyo Sushi Recommendations for a Family?

Others will need to weigh in on the 20k+ yen per person places (so this may not totally answer your question) but:

For a total experience, I think the two classic early morning places (Dai and Daiwa) in Tsukiji are unique. Great for jet lag if you are coming from the states since early morning = afternoon in the US. Yeah, it's touristy and there's a wait. While the quality may not be the very top tier, I think it is quite good. And if you don't live in Japan, the location and vibe of the market and the sushi bars are just so cool. It was unforgettable for our 10 year old son.

It may not be "high-end" enough for you, but I thought Sushi No Midori in Akasaka Sacas was great for our family (me, wife and kids ages 5, 7, and 10). Definitely a lower tier price point but very good and seems well respected by locals. Lots of locals but you'll do fine in English.

Mar 19, 2014
jmarek in Japan

Best Dishes at Low Key Tokyo Station Area Places

Here's my situation: I visit Japan from the US West Coast every 1-2 months for 4-5 days. I usually stay near Tokyo Station and my office is in Shirokane Takanawa. When possible, I try to keep close to U.S. Pacific time to minimize jet lag. So I'll go to sleep at ~7pm local time and wake at 2am. I'll work in the hotel until the city wakes, then go to meetings during the day Japan time.

I'll often have a little free time between 5 and 7pm and want to use that time to eat great Japanese food. I don't usually know in advance (so no reservations) and I just want something low key near my hotel (Tokyo Sta/Otemachi/Marunouchi). I am too tired to wait in lines or have multi-course meals.

Where I've been:
- Ramen Street (I pick any one without a line). Always very good to great ("lunch" at 8am local time at Rokurinsha is great!)
- Kitchen Street: udon and tonkatsu places both pretty good - suspect there are many great dishes lurking here!
- Oazo: liked the soba place and really liked the tempura place. Sushi place was just OK, nothing special
- Yo!!: I really like the tsukemen at Sharin. Went to Birdland which was good but didn't seem good enough to justify the price to me.
- Standing Sushi Bar in Tokyo Station: I like it. Fast, tasty, cheap, super easy

I would love to expand my repertoire of great walk-in type places (any sort of Japanese food), low to moderate price points. Also of specific outstanding dishes at those restaurants. Any ideas?

Feb 28, 2014
jmarek in Japan

January Tokyo trip report

I found the Tokyo, Kanto, Yokohama, and Shizuoka region flavors (which include wasabi and rum raisin) at a store on the lower level of Narita Terminal 1 in mid-December. The level where the ticket booths and fare gates are for the Narita Express and Keisei trains. The store was near the express elevators to the 4th floor.

Jan 30, 2014
jmarek in Japan

January Tokyo trip report

I bought wasabi and rum raisin Kit Kats to bring back to the US, figuring that the first was a joke and the second would be good. Turns out the rum raisin wasn't very good - just tasted greasy to me, like poor quality white chocolate. The wasabi was pretty good, though. It wasn't too sharp, just enough to cut that same mediocre white chocolate mouth feel and add interest. I'd actually recommend it.

Jan 27, 2014
jmarek in Japan

Ottavio in Walnut Creek?

Last went last fall and it was still very good. The chef-owner gave us tastes of the "fish charcuterie" (or something like that) which were fantastic - highly recommended. The smoked duck sugo and octopus salad were still great.

I wouldn't recommend the panna cotta nearly as much anymore. It used to be made in individual molds and now is made in larger quantities, which require more gelatin to set. Still good flavor but the best-I've-ever-had texture was gone.

Mar 21, 2013
jmarek in San Francisco Bay Area

Thai in the East Bay: Soi 4 in Rockridge

We have great roti canai in the south of Thailand, near the Malaysian border. Lots of Malay/Muslim influence down there and it was served in all the Muslim restaurants, despite the fact that I believe it is originally Tamil dish...

Aug 09, 2012
jmarek in San Francisco Bay Area

Outdoor dining in Walnut Creek/Concord?

Another option is to BART to Lafayette. Weather is about the same as Walnut Creek. You can easily walk to Chow and eat outdoors. Food is good (not great but good), casual atmosphere, sit down. Sounds like the type of place you want.

It's a longer walk to Artisan Bistro - less casual but the food is fantastic. Or rather, the food is less casual, though you can easily show up in shorts and the outdoor seating feels casual. Metro is another option in that vein, but I think it is a bit overated.

May 12, 2012
jmarek in San Francisco Bay Area

Three Three Five, Green Bay, WI - fantastic!

I'm a San Francisco Bay Area hound who visited Green Bay, WI last Wednesday. My born-in-Naples-Italy food-obsessed colleague and I asked at the hotel "where should we go?" and were directed downtown to Hinterland or Chefusion. We figured we would check them both out and pick our favorite menu/atmosphere, but when we got downtown we stumbled onto something much better: Three Three Five.

Apparently, the restaurant is only open Wednesday night. Other nights, the space is used for events or the chef does private catering. The space revolves around the kitchen -- not just an open kitchen but a kitchen that centers the space. A long poured concrete counter gives a chef's table feel. Good start.

The food was excellent: modern, elegant, delicious, and not at all pretentuous. The chef (who came and talked with us -- he's a super nice guy!) has a knack for flavors. Some of our dishes, from memory:

- Beef tartare: great flavor, well seasoned, perfect texture because of the knivework - exactly what tartare should be
- Truffled grilled cheese with tomato jam - classic combo down well, good balance of sweet and earthy
- Chicken liver pate - again, classic flavors done perfectly
- Tiger shrimp with peas, tortellini, and mint - great Spring combo, best dish of the night, one of the three best pasta dishes I've had in the past couple years
- Pork belly with black rice and pineapple - another good flavor combo, but a tiny bit overseasoned for my taste. Still great
- Sticky date "coffee cake" - awesome dessert, not too sweet but great date flavors
- Rosemary panna cotta with candied pine nuts - would have been fantastic but the texture of the panna cotta was off (too much gelatin). The flavor idea was brilliant, though, and shows the chef's skill. The rosemary was subtle - you get the fragrance but don't quite taste it, which is exactly what you want. The candied pine nuts were a revelation (I'm stealing the idea for home!). Exactly the right level of sweetness. With some work on the texture, this would be a perfect dessert.

Service was a bit slow but fine -- what you'd expect from a place that isn't a restaurant every night.

Apr 22, 2012
jmarek in Great Lakes

DJ's Bistro in Concord

The deli area is great, Melanie. I think it's better than Delikateski, which makes me sad because I'm Polish but I'm selling out to the Russians ;) ... oh well, at least the Polish folks at Chopin are still doing good work.

Apr 22, 2012
jmarek in San Francisco Bay Area

Chez Panisse 2012

I think we had the same type of shrimp, flash fried, at Central Market in Petaluma. They were unbelievable!

Apr 22, 2012
jmarek in San Francisco Bay Area