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Restaurants in Torino (Turin)

Sorry for the vagueness, Jeff. I was trying to propose a little giro for you. The "Roman stuff" reference was to the Palatina towers, which date from the 1st century and are well worth seeing. Heading north beyond the towers you come to Porta Palazzo, which is where you will find the enormous outdoor food market - you mustn't miss it. Then another 100 metres or so brings you to the Borgo Dora, where there is a sprawling flea market at weekends - and Trattoria Valenza.

Other suggestions: I have really enjoyed Osteria Antiche Sere, Consorzio, L'Acino,L'Oca Fola, Le Vitel Etonne and Circolo dei Lettori. All are easy-going trattoria-type places except the Circolo which is a bit more formal.

Over the river, a good old-style Turin place with traditional menu is Ristorante Monferrato. San Salvario is the "happening" area where you will find less traditional, more creative places such as Scannabue, which I have never been to but which has been recommended.

Antiche Sere (not central): 011 385 4347
Consorzio: 011 276 7661
L'Acino: 011 521 7077
L'Oca Fola: http://ocafola.it/
Vitel Etonne: http://www.leviteletonne.com/ita/Il-R...
Circolo del Lettori: http://www.circololettori.it/il-risto...
Monferrato: http://www.ristorantemonferrato.com/m...
Scannabue: http://www.scannabue.it/

Jul 29, 2015
Parmasam in Italy

Restaurants in Torino (Turin)

Maybe not for dinner, but Trattoria Valenza is always good for lunch. Proper old-school Torinese trattoria food. It's just beyond the Porta Palatina and the Porta Palazzo food market and bang in the middle of the Borgo Dora. So if you're there on a Saturday: Roman stuff>food market>flea market>Valenza. But maybe you know all this already...
Trattoria Valenza
Via Borgo Dora, 39, 10152 Torino

Jul 28, 2015
Parmasam in Italy

Need recs for 7 day driving tour from Veneto to Emiglia Romagna

A couple of suggestions for dinner near Castell’Arquato: Da Giovanni (http://www.dagiovanniacortina.com/) and Trattoria del Ponte (https://www.facebook.com/pages/Tratto...). You will also be only a few kilometres away from the bassa, so by car you can easily each Bussetto, Soragna, Roccabianca, Zibello etc. Very close to Castell’Arquato, just north of the Via Emilia is Trattoria Campanini (http://www.culatelloandwine.it/culate...). If you don’t mind taking pot luck, the colli Piacentini are great for just cruising around and picking a sign that looks promising. You might get a dud, but usually the food will be pretty good.

You probably know that you will be in what lambrusco-phobes regard as the “proper” wine-making area of E-R (although, in August, a chilled bottle of lambrusco or malvasia will serve you very well), and some of the best producers – such as La Tosa, La Stoppa and Barracone – are congregated around Rivergaro and Ponte dell’Olio. Just outside Castell’Arquato are Casa Benna and Tenuta la Bertuzza.

For the leg to Parma, you could forgo the motorway and take a southwards loop via Bardi, for the daddy of the E-R castles, then Varsi and Varano Melegari, stopping for lunch at Da Gelsy (and a swim in the river nearby). You can then pick up the Parma-Felino road to Calestano and… Trattoria Mariella. Just remember that in August nothing is guaranteed. I hope you have a great time.

Da Gelsy: http://www.villagelsomina.com/wordpre...

Jun 03, 2015
Parmasam in Italy

Seeking tiny producer olive oil and/or cheese that's worth traveling for just to bring home a bottle or wheel

Podere il Casale, between Pienza and Montepulciano, serves very good food on its terrace (with view of the Val d'Orcia), including pecorino and goat's cheese made in-house. Book ahead and you can watch them making the cheese in the morning. If it's cheese you crave, you should go there. http://www.podereilcasale.it/farm

May 27, 2015
Parmasam in Italy

Trip in June to Florence, Bologna, Parma, Lucca, Certaldo

Cocchi is good for the first night in Parma, but if you have a car then I suggest you try one of the many good trattorias outside town (10-45 mins) for your second dinner. Mariella in Fragno Calestano, Antichi Sapori in Gaione, or Milla in Sala Baganza are all easy to get to and, in my opinion, better bets than the Tribunale both for food and ambience. If you want a meat experience rather than prosciutto and pasta (the meat secondi are rarely good in these parts) then try Mariposa, a Sardinian place that does incredible roast suckling pig (you have to book two days ahead).

May 04, 2015
Parmasam in Italy

Trip in June to Florence, Bologna, Parma, Lucca, Certaldo

Cocchi is good for the first night in Parma, but if you have a car then I suggest you try one of the many good trattorias outside town (10-45 mins) for your second dinner. Mariella in Fragno Calestano, Antichi Sapori in Gaione, or Milla in Sala Baganza are all easy to get to and, in my opinion, better bets than the Tribunale both for food and ambience. If you want a full-on meat experience rather than prosciutto and pasta (the meat secondi are rarely good in these parts) you could try Mariposa, a Sardinian place that does incredible roast suckling pig (you have to book two days ahead).

May 04, 2015
Parmasam in Italy

Piemonte 2014 and some links to previous years

And don't forget November Porc. If you end up at Ivan's or La Buca on a Saturday or Sunday next month try to make it to Sissa, Polesine, Zibello or Roccabianca.
http://www.novemberporc.it/it-IT/home...

Oct 13, 2014
Parmasam in Italy

Emilia Romagna Picks?

A couple of places in Monteveglio, about 20 km west of Bologna. The Parco Abbazia is a beautiful spot and great for walking.

Trattoria del Borgo, Monteveglio
Trattoria dai Mugnai.

http://www.trattoriadelborgomontevegl...
http://www.daimugnai.it/

Sep 26, 2014
Parmasam in Italy

relatively inexpensive agriturismo with great food? (anywhere in Italy)

Sep 12, 2014
Parmasam in Italy

Restaurant Recommendations in Parma

La Forchetta changed hands about a year ago and is indeed now more of a seafood restaurant. I've only been once since and the food was good but, like most of the places in the city, nothing special. I know that sounds pompous and maybe I'm spoilt, but the city centre trattorias and restaurants just aren't as interesting or friendly as the out-of-town places. Tribunale is a good example - decent food but now a bit soulless and perfunctory. It is another old establishment that has come "under new ownership". (It seems that quite a few of the Parma landmark trattorias are being gobbled up by a small group of "investors".) Even going out a couple of kilometres to Ai Due Platani, Antichi Sapori, Mille or Da Romeo you get a more inviting atmosphere and better food. Having said that, if I had one night in the town and wanted a decent Parmigiano meal I would happily eat at Sorelle Picchi (guess what, was sold on a couple of years ago, but still serves very good salumi misti, primi and, unusually for Parma, secondi, particularly the guanciale in vino rosso). But if I had the time and 20 euros to spare for a taxi I'd get out of town. Major caveat: it's only my opinion, others might disagree!

Sep 07, 2014
Parmasam in Italy

Restaurant Recommendations in Parma

Hi Z. For me Enoteca Fontana is a better bet than Tabarro. It's about 50 yards farther down Via Farini. The back room has a nice vibe and the plates of ham and nibbles are very good. The best spot for aperitivi is the Oltretorrente area on the west side of the river. There are some great wine bars off or near Via D'Azeglio such as Bar Kiko (Via D'Azeglio, specialises in organic wines), Osteria Oltrevino (Borgo Pietro Cocconi), Labo (Strada Inzani) and Le Minimum (Piazza Picelli). Also nearby is a decent birreria (artisanal beers are big in Parma) called Le Vecchie Maniere (Borgo Bernabei). You'll get decent stuzzichini at all of them.
https://www.facebook.com/Oltrevino
http://www.birreriavecchiemaniere.it/

Sep 05, 2014
Parmasam in Italy

Honeymoon in Italy (Genoa, Cinque Terre, Bologna, Modena, Parma, Venice, Tuscany, and Florence)

I think you'll be fine without a reservation in October.

Aug 20, 2014
Parmasam in Italy

Honeymoon in Italy (Genoa, Cinque Terre, Bologna, Modena, Parma, Venice, Tuscany, and Florence)

A lunch suggestion for Cinque Terre: Trattoria dal Billy in Manarola. I don't know where you are staying, but if it's one of the neighbouring villages you could walk to Manarola (about 1.5 hours from Monterosso, for example), eat pasta with fresh crab and lobster and then get the train back. Wonderful location and food. If they take you off menu, check the prices before you order (fish of the day will be delicious but can be pricey).

http://www.trattoriabilly.com/

Jul 24, 2014
Parmasam in Italy

Milan to Siena - recommendations along the way?

If you find yourself in the Parma area around lunchtime you could come off the A1 at the La Spezia exit and head north to La Porta di Felino. Or carry on to the Parma exit and try Le Viole (cucina parmigiana cooked by Friulians). Both only a few minutes from the motorway.
Porta di Felino: http://www.laportadifelino.it/real/ho...
Le Viole: Strada Nuova di Castelnuovo, 60, 43126 Castelnuovo Parma

Jun 10, 2014
Parmasam in Italy

Emilia-Romagna and Lombardia: a late report (l-o-n-g) and plans

I'm glad that Parma worked out for you.If you come again let me know and I will be happy to take you out to one of the country places (I was in London at Christmas getting my Indian and Turkish fixes). I have a theory about the olive oil at Santa Chiara - could the fishy additive have been lobster roe? I say this because I had shellfish with a delicious olive oil/roe kind of emulsion at another restaurant in the city. Did you track down the porcini?

Jan 17, 2014
Parmasam in Italy

Emilia-Romagna and Lombardia: a late report (l-o-n-g) and plans

I'm not sure I have the expertise to answer that one, Jihba, as I've never seen P-R for sale that's more than 60 months old! However, I do buy a fair amount of the younger stuff, and the delis (particularly Garibaldi, Verdi or the Prosciutteria http://www.noidaparma.it/en/shops.php) all sell top-quality P-R. Sorelle Pichi on via Farini and Casa del Formaggio on Via Bixio (over the river in the Oltretorrente) are also good bets. They will all sell it to you sottovuoto (vacuum-packed). I don't know about buying from a trattoria but it's worth a try.

Dec 18, 2013
Parmasam in Italy

Emilia-Romagna and Lombardia: a late report (l-o-n-g) and plans

Hi Jihba. I can add something on Parma which you might find helpful. Personally I would give Trattoria Santa Chiara a miss. The food is decent but it's a bit soulless and geared to tourists/business visitors. There are better restaurant options in the centre e.g Cocchi, La Greppia, La Forchetta. Tribunale, Antica Cereria, Osteria del 36, Osteria del Gesso and Il Norcino are less formal and the food is reliable. There's also a great Sardinian place, Sa Marjoga, if you fancy a rest from tortelli. For me, the better options are outside the city. As well as Mariella's, da Ivan, Ardenga etc there is Trattoria Milla in Sala Baganza (15 mins by car), which is wonderful - they do a very good guanciale in vino rosso and the cooked-to-order zabaione is incredible. You will be strong-armed into sampling the home-made digestivi on your way out. Antichi Sapori is also well worth the 10-minute drive as is Ai Due Platani. Of course, as you have discovered, the out-of-town places may not be be open on Christmas Eve. Good luck. Some lnks:
Del Gesso: http://www.osteriadelgesso.it/index.htm
Antica Cereria: http://www.anticacereria.it/Homepage....
Il Norcino: http://www.osteriailnorcinoparma.com/
Milla: http://www.trattoriamilla.it/
Antichi Sapori: http://www.cucinaparmigiana.it/

Regarding your question below about dried porcini, you will find them easily in Parma. The porcini from Borgo val di Taro, 60km from the city, are regarded as the best in the region. Look for the "Borgotaro" label or buy them loose in town.

Dec 18, 2013
Parmasam in Italy

Seeking Advice for Parma and Environs

Sorry, but another thought. If you are going to the afternoon performance at the Teatro, why not head out of town for your evening meal? E.g. Mariella's (maybe a bit far), Ai Due Platani in Coloreto or Antichi Sapori in Gaione.

Aug 28, 2013
Parmasam in Italy

Seeking Advice for Parma and Environs

Hi chowtraveler. I wouldn't bother with Stella D'Oro. If you're in the Soragna area, Osteria Ardenga is a much better bet. In Parma, Angiol D'Or seems to have gone downhill and there are not really any trattorie that stand out. However, La Greppia, Antica Cereria and Osteria del 36 are usually reliable. Good luck.
http://www.osteriardenga.it/

Aug 28, 2013
Parmasam in Italy

Need help deciding which airport to fly into...

Hi Jazzy K, I have just caught up with this thread and can only add that if you decide to go to Locanda Mariella you shouldn't miss the Black Truffle Fair in Calestano Fragno, which runs from mid-October to early November.
http://www.winefoodemiliaromagna.com/...

Aug 27, 2013
Parmasam in Italy

Need a countryside restaurant between Parma and Bologna

Or try this place in Rubbiara (careful with those spellings...), just north of Modena

http://www.acetaiapedroni.it/en/osteria/

Jun 27, 2013
Parmasam in Italy

Restaurant Recommendations in Parma

Unfortunately a lot of the trattorie in Parma have become quite bland and uninspiring. If you want to experience good local cooking in an authentic atmosphere I would suggest that you get out of town (but not necessarily too far), although I guess you're asking about places in town because you won't have a car. However, if you do have wheels or your budget stretches to a couple of short taxi rides it's worth heading to Trattoria da Romeo (in Botteghino, 10 mins from Parmal; tel: 0521 641167), Trattoria Milla (Sala Baganza, 15 mins; http://www.trattoriamilla.it/), or Antichi Sapori (Gaione, 10 mins; 0521648165). Il Granaio (10 mins; 0521 804110) in Lemignano was recommended to me by a local couple but I haven't got round to visiting yet. A bit further out in Fragnolo di Calestano is the fantastic Locanda Mariella (20 mins: 0525 52102). In town, the Tribunale and Sorelle Picchi have both changed hands recently but the food is still very good. Over the river in the Oltretorrente is the Antica Cereria, which has a lovely vaulted dining room and reliable parmigiano cooking. Bring an extra case for the parmigiano-reggiano and culatello...

May 28, 2013
Parmasam in Italy

looking for north Italy agriturismo with great food/wine

Emilia Romagna is definitely a good bet. The bassa area north of Parma has plenty of places that meet your criteria i.e. wonderful food and a room to crash afterwards. Be aware though: in August it will be HOT. These three are all excellent:

Trattoria la Buca (Zibello)

http://www.trattorialabuca.com/iPhone...

Antica Corte Pallavicina (Polesine Parmense

)

http://www.acpallavicina.com/

Osteria Ardenga (Soragna). No rooms

http://www.osteriardenga.it/

If you don't mind a slightly longer drive I would suggest that you head for the Langhe area of Piedmont. It is stunningly beautiful and has the best wine and food on the planet. I'm not exaggerating; it's a fact. There are some well regarded agriturismi around Monforte d'Alba, which is a good base for exploring the area.

To stay: La Torricella

http://www.latorricella.eu/

To eat:

Trattoria della Posta

http://www.trattoriadellaposta.it/

Osteria dei Catari

http://www.osteriadeicatari.com/

Jul 31, 2012
Parmasam in Italy