dflack's Profile
Amazing thai cuisine at Soi 4 in Scottsdale
Four of us had one of the best dining experiences in recent memory at Soi 4 in Gainey Village Scottsdale last night. This is not your typical Thai restaurant-it is obvious that the owners have spent a lot of time and thought on the details that are the difference between good and great restaurants. Starting with the upscale, slightly modern asian decor, thoughful lighting, and enthusiastic staff, first impressions are a sgn of what's to come.
An interesting wine and cocktail list, including a nice selection of wines by the glass, gives an opportunity to sip something good while deciding what to order from the large and varied menu. While there are many of the standard Thai dishes found in many Phx area thai places, based on our experience, I can recommend branching out and trying some of the more interesting items such as pork shoulder braised in a spicy Thai paste that becomes a complex "gravy" for the pork and veggies that are simmered in it, or fork tender melt in your mouth beef short ribs in a fragrant cocunut milk infused, rich and spicy sauce.
As good as our entrees were, we were blown away with the fresh, vibrant flavors we found on the salads and small plates section of the menu. A salad of crispy, fried catfish, green mango, julienne apples, and a melange of sour, spicy, and sweet Thai flavors, arrives artfully plated on a long, slender white platter. Thirty seconds later the platter was empty and our taste buds were singing.
Next up, crunchy pillows of phylo dough stuffed with a spicy shrimp, ground pork, and curry filling. A green papaya, lime, chili, and vinegar salad offered fresh and vibrant flavors withou any heat. We also enjoyed large, grilled river prawns accompanied with a composed salad of fresh field greens, green apples, and a just slightly creamy Thai dressing with hints of Thai chili, fish sauce, and cilantro.
The highlight of the night was unquestionably the whole crispy sea bass. A large, very fresh sea bass is deep fried whole and presented at the table swimming in an intoxicating sauce and vegetable combination. i can't tell you what the sauce was made from-the menu simply states three flavor Thai sauce, but it was packed with flavor and was the perfect accompaniment to the crispy fish. The fish was cooked perfectly, and we had fun picking the large chunks of tender white flesh off the sea bass skeleton.
We finished off the meal with sticky, sweet coconut rice and mango- a Thai restaurant staple dessert, and addicting tempura battered fried banana chunks perfectly matched with creamy, smooth coconut ice cream.
This 11- month old restaurant is putting out some very interesting and very chow worthy cuisine, in a vibrant atmosphere, with professional and friendly service to match. It is refreshing to find an ethnic restaurant in Scottsdale that could easily be a success in NYC, LA, or San Francisco. We will definitely put Soi 4 into our regular restaurant rotation-can't wait to return to try seared duck breast in red curry sauce or stir fried garlic noodle with manila clams, chilis, and fresh thai basil. Yum.
Best of Chamonix
By far my favorite experience is lunch on the slopes at Grand Montets, Chalet Refuge de Lognan. It is only accessed skiing down a black run and not easy to find, but by far the best on mountain lunch. Reservations are necessary. Nothing like this anywhere in the US.
Either of the restaurants at Hotel Albert 1er are terrific, but the more casual Le Maison Carrier is the least expensive of the two and is more of what you want after a day of skiing. Every night there is a different meat on the rotissiere, and always great. Very traditional Savoie menu,pro service, and authentic atmosphere.
In the town of Chamonix, Le Atmosphere,on the river is very good, also.
Phx-Rabbit Legs
I buy rabbit at least once per month for rabbit curry or to grill. I have never seen rabbit legs sold separately anywhere, and I can't imagine what you would do with just the legs as there is very little meat on them. When AJ's has rabbit it is very expensive. Best value and always available is either Meekong or LeeLee (note that the rabbit is frozen and requires butchering to use). Forget Whole Foods they do not carry it.
Caribbean beach resorts or Miami / South Beach resorts with best food? Help, fellow foodies! :)
I cannot understand how you can try and compare Miami Beach resorts with the Caribbean-they share nothing in common. Do you want to go to an island and experience a different culture and mood or do you want a big US city with sand?
IMHO, forget both Ritz properties. St. Thomas and Puerto Rico offer all of the worst of the Caribbean at once. Crowded, touristy, dirty, and full of cruise ships.
Anguilla is a very special island and has some incredible chow worthy options. Could not be more different from Miami Beach or St. Thomas.
For the best of food, service, island culture, and exclusivity, I would strongly recommend St. Barth's. There are several great choices of resorts, just depends on your budget. On the highest end you cannot go wrong at either Le Toiney or Hotel Ile de France.
Provence Blowout Dinner, Need Help!
I was under the impression that Villa Madie closed last year. Has it re-opened?
It was one of the highlights of our France trip two years ago, but we skipped Cassis in June because we had been told they closed shortly after receiving their Michelin star. I couldn't believe it when I heard, since we found the setting, the cuisine, and the wine selection to be unsurpassed and a much more relaxing vibe than anything further east to St. Tropez, Nice, Monaco, etc.
If it is open, it is not to be missed.
Where should I stay/eat in the Luberon? Where to eat on a Sunday and Monday in Avignon? (questions on Provence)
For a great dining experience and a very charming small inn situated in the heart of the Louberon, I suggest Auberge La Feniere just outside the charming town of Lourmarin. If possible try to time it with the market day in Lourmarin, which is Friday.
Chef Rene Sammut of Auberge La Feniere is considered by many to be France's top female chef and lunch or dinner at her beautiful restaurant situated on her small farm is a very special experience. In the summer you will dine on the patio and at other times in the equally stunning dining room. The menu features the best of the season, much of which is grown there on the property, and the wines heavily favor the local vintners.
Rooms are exceptional and the grounds very peaceful. Well worth a visit.
http://www.reinesammut.com/index.php?lang=en
Also, do not miss Bistrot de Paradou, in Paradou just outside of St. Remy.
Best Foie Gras not in a Michelin Star restaurant? And anyone been to Au Gourmand?
For the past five or six years we have made the incredible foie gras main course at Bistro de Paris our traditional first night's dinner every trip to Paris. It came recommended by a Parisian hotelier friend and we have since suggested it to many friends, all of whom have become fans of their foie gras. The plate is comprised of several very large portions of beautifully sauteed fresh foie gras lovingly placed on top of decadent pommes puree and topped with a rich port/truffle sauce. If you truly love foie gras and cannot usually get enough of the stuff, this is the meal for you. Bistrot de Paris may sound like a tourist restaurant, but it is in fact very much a local's spot. Reservations are almost always needed. While I always have the foie gras, they also serve an excellent calve's liver plate as well. Bistrot de Paris is in the 7th at 33 rue lille.
Major Yasu Bistro disappointment
Not only is it in the best interests of the customer to make a reservation, but it is also in the best interest of the restaurant to take the reservation. Not only do they have a count of at least the minimum number of clients that they will serve that evening, but there is also the fact that once someone has made a reservation the likelihood of their actually showing up and spending money is greatly increased than if they are just told to "show up".
Vosne-Romanee + Beaune - Wine Tasting + Restos
Had a great dinner two years ago at a small restaurant in the town of Flagey-Echezeaux,
Robert Losset. Phone number 03 80 62 88 10.
The restaurant is in the old train station and does not look like much from outside, but it is excellent cuisine in very nice dining room and won't take all of your euros.
There is also a little cafe in Gevrey-Chambertin that I cannot remember the name of, but it is in the center of the village on the main street. The menu is very limited, but we went back three afternoons in a row because we could not get enough of their escargot. I think we went through 2 dozen each every day. They also offer several wines from local producers at a good price. Look for the large, white dog named Blackie lounging around the outside tables.
one late lunch in French St. Martin
I used to live in Anguilla and would often take the ferry over to St. Martin just to have lunch at Tropicana. This excellent al fresco French restaurant is located a couple of minutes walk from the ferry dock in Marigot in the marina.
Not sure how late you were thinking about going over-I would call to check how late they will take you. We often lingered after lunch until well past 3:30, but not sure how late they will seat you.
You will love your lunch there. I have sent loads of people there over the years and no one has been disappointed. Enjoy.
Which Vaucluse restaurant to choose...?
Le Fournil is a good choice, always reliable and great regional cooking.
For a special evening, I strongly suggest Auberge La Feniere, just outside of the village of Lourmarin. In good weather you will dine outside on the terrace overlooking the Vaucluse. All aspects of this restaurant are superb. An excellent selection of regional wines, friendly, knowledgable service, and the cuisine of one of France's best female chefs, Reine Sammut. Reservations are essential, it is not inexpensive, but you will be rewarded with an evening that you will long remember.
There are two restaurants and a small upscale hotel within the property. For a special evening you will want to reserve a table in the restaurant Le Cuisine de Reine, rather than the more rustic (but excellent) La Cour de Ferme. Her menu changes seasonally, but you can expect excellent preparations of Sisteron Lamb, fish from the Mediterranean, and if you hit it on the right day amazing stuffed courgette blossoms.
www.reinesammut.com
Route de Cadenet
84160 Lourmarin
Tél. : 04 90 68 11 79
Fax : 04 90 68 18 60
Dinner recs in St. Remy/Avignon/Gordes area?
I don't know if it is too late, but Bistrot du Paradou in the nearby town of Paradou. It is about 10 minutes from St. Remy and it is exactly what you are asking for. They have a single pre-fixe 4 course meal that changes every day. Reservations are a must as it is extremely popular. Excellent cuisines, ambiance, friendly service, all at a very good price (which includes apperitif, wine, and coffee). If I remember, dinner is around 105 euro for two.
57 Ave. de la Vallée des Baux; 33-4/90-54-32-70;
Paris Questions
I would definitely second the recommendation of Monsieur Lapin-a great neighborhood restaurant with a very friendly welcome and some of the most interesting rabbit dishes I have ever had (they have much more than just rabbit on the menu). This is not a typical tourist restaurant, but a true Parisian experience.
Sorry you cannot get into Hidden Kitchen. Despite what people that have not been there say, this is a great experience and something different if you are in Paris for a longer stay. I would not recommend it for first timers or anyone coming for a 2-3 night stay, there are just too many other great options. But after several days in Paris it is fun to enjoy a great meal in a very relaxing, casual environment. I don't know how you can classify HK as an "American" experience as the technique is mostly French and the ingredients bought that day are most assuredly French. Also not sure what is wrong with wanting to have dinner with people who share the same language, culture, and experiences while in a foreign city, but you will also probably have several Parisian's at dinner with you and can learn a lot more about the city, the people, and the culture through them than you can from the waiter or Parisians at the next table at any bistro.
For anyone who is into wine an absolute must is Il vino in the 7th. Enrico Bernardo the young owner is as passionate about wine as he is an expert. The concept at Il Vino is that the menu only lists wines by the glass-once you order your wines the food portion of the menu is decided for you by the kitchen. Very unique experience, but they are doing something right as it is very popular and earned a Michelin star shortly after opening.
Also, if you are a wine lover spend some time browsing downstairs at Lavinia, especially for more mature French wines at reasonable prices (not just First Growths or Grand Cru bordeaux and burgundies, but also wines that the French drink every day).
One last suggestion-if you are a foie gras lover then you should go to Bistrot de Paris on rue Lille in the 7th. Although by the name it sounds touristy, it is anything but. It is very Parisian, with most of the patrons seeming to be regulars based on the reception they get, although they were also most welcoming to us. It was recommended to us by a friend who is Managing Director at a 5-star Leading Hotel of the World in Paris. Anyway, back to the foie gras. This is a main course and consists of several large chunks of perfectly sauteed fresh goose liver placed atop a perfect pomme puree with a truffle, port, demi glace sauce. It is simple and perfect, especially if you always are craving a little more foie gras when you order it as a first course in most restaurants. This is a must stop at least one evening on every trip to Paris. FYI, reservations are essential.
Hope you have a great time.
Il Vino in the 7th
Jock,
Are you saying that Villa Maddie in Cassis has closed? I cannot believe this-had an unbelievable lunch there in late September and was looking forward to going back. It looked as though quite a bit of money had been invested in the restaurant. I wonder what will happen to the building and the very large cellar full of wine.
I was pretty sure that they would earn at least one star.
Five days/nights in Aix en Provence
Sounds like you have a good strategy, staying centrally in Aix but planning to get out and expolore each day & enjoying lunch at a restaurant and making dinner in your kitchen. We followed this same strategy with a group of 3 couples staying at a villa near Les Beaux and it was perfect.
You must go to Villa Maddie in Cassis. This restaurant opened last summer and has by far the best table and the best view in Cassis. The chef and sommelier are both from top Paris restaurants and have created something very special. This was one of the highlights from a 15 day eating and drinking tour of France last September, which also included several 2/3 star Michelin meals. After lunch take a tour of the adjacent Clos de Madelleine, the best vineyard in the area. Also worth visiting a few of the excellent vineyards in nearby Bandol, to taste and purchase some of the best reds to be found in France.
In Lourmarin I strongly recommend Auberge La Feniere for an excellent lunch at chef Rene Sammut's farm just outside of town. This time of the year you will be dining on the beautiful outside patio overlooking the gardens and nearby hills. You will be wowed with the cuisine from one of the best female chefs in all of France.
On Wednesday, take a drive into St. Remy for the morning market and then drive a few miles down the road to the small town of Paradou for lunch at Le Bistrot de Paradou. The St. Remy market is a great place to purchase the ingredients for that nights dinner-ask the restaurant to put your perishables in their cooler during lunch. The fixed menu changes every day and you will never be disapointed. It is a small, unpretentious restaurant that has many devotees, including Peter Mayle and Patricia Wells, but it remains the same as it has always been. A remarkable bargain, considering that all wine, apperitifs, and coffee is included in the fixed price, you will only be disappointed if you don't make a reservation and get turned away. This is a perfect slice of Provence.
On the drive to Chateaunuef de Pape, a very good lunch can be found at the Michelin starred Auberge de Cassagne in Le Pontet, just off the autoroute north east of Avignon. One of the largest of the winemakers in Chateaunuef de Pape is Chateau Mont-Redon who have a nice tasting area and very warm welcome. It is a good idea to call ahead. Best of all they have available to purchase many older vintages, so you can understand what all the fuss is about in a 10-20 year old Chateaunuef de Pape. We purchased a magnum of 1978 and 1972 and enjoyed them the next night with grilled Sisteron lamb-an unforgettable meal.
Enjoy your time in Provence!
Where to Buy Live Lobster (Phoenix)
I buy live lobsters at least once a month. My wife and I love to put them on the grill. In my opinion the best place to buy lobsters in the Phx/Scottsdale area is definitely Lee Lee's. They always have plenty available, although sometimes you might not have as many choices of size as other days, and most importantly their prices cannot be beat. About $10 less per pound than AJ's, which is a lot if you are buying several 2+ pound lobsters.
If you are looking for big lobsters, 4-6 pounders, Lee Lee's usually has some in their tanks.
Enjoy.
Le Bristol "versus" Le Cinq: Last Request of a Honeymooner-To-Be
Brian,
I would agree with pretty much everything Sophie has mentioned and add my own thoughts. Since you mention that you and your fiancee are somewhat novices to France starred restaurants, I would strongly recommend Le Bristol. I find that the staff are a bit less pretentious and in the past have been very welcoming to friends of mine who have dined their and were in a similar position as you.
Also, as Sophie mentioned, either one will do anything you ask to insure the experience is memorable. Raphael Courant is the restaurant manager at Le Bristol. Be sure to call him personally to make your reservation and explain what you would like. He speaks fluent English and is the type of front of the house personality that is very often missing in the U.S., outside of a few places in NYC. You will be welcomed and made to feel that you and your wife are the most special people in the room, without being patronized.
Have a great honeymoon!
ISO the Best High-End Place In Scottsdale
rbloom,
I am not positive what the total was, as lucky for me my brother in law paid. I do know that it was not cheap, and we added some special wines over and above the Sommelier's pairings (d'Quem & some very mature Madeiras). I believe the food portion was $250 per person.
I know this sounds expensive, but compared to a 2 or 3 star in France it is a relative bargain & the food was as good. I cannot say what the experience in the dining room at Mary Elaine's is like, but the meal we had in the kitchen was better than the degustation menu my wife and I had at Pierre Gagnaire in Paris last month (about $400 per person for food only).
FYI, we did not give the restaurant a budget for food or wine, just asked them to blow us away. This was a one time special occasion and they exceeded our expectations, usually I would want to set some cost parameters. I'm sure they can work with you if you have a budget in mind.
ISO the Best High-End Place In Scottsdale
David,
All of the places mentioned already are excellent & good choices for a special night. I would like to put in a word for Mary Elaine's-one of the last of the really fine dining restaurants in Phoenix/Scottsdale. If price is no object, call them up and reserve the chef's table in the kitchen and have their Master Sommelier Greg match wines with each of the chef's courses. We did just that last Friday for a party of four and had 10-12 courses(I can't remember all of them at the moment) that were expertly crafted and featured great ingredients (foie gras, truffles, caviar, black bass, blue fin tuna, local produce, ,,,) and great flavors.
They have the whole dining in the kitchen experience down. With the Chef overseeing everything, each of the cooks who has created a dish brings it to your table and gives a detailed explanation of the ingredients, sauces, and cooking method. In between courses you can walk through the kitchen, peering into pots, asking questions, and observing a finely tuned staff create exquisite food. Wine service was equal to the cuisine, with many unique selections. The table is in a perfect position, allowing you to watch the show in the kitchen, but be out of the way of the service. The decor, china, linens, and stemware are five star and there is even a flat screen monitor that shows the various stations in the kitchen throughout the eveing. This is truly a unique and special experience. Mary Elaine's has one of the most complete wine lists in the valley, if you want to really add to the bill with something like a 1961 Chateau Petrus or a magnum of 1947 Chateau d'Quem, you can. They also have lots of reasonable priced selections and unlike most valley restaurants, you can easily find more mature wines rather than just recent vintages.
I know that there are differing opinions on Mary Elaine's on this site, but after my experience the other night, I would urge you to consider it. It was equal to, or better than recent meals at Binkley's and SeaSaw in terms of food, but the kitchen experience and the wine pairings took it to another level.
Wherever you decide to go, enjoy!
Oysters needed in Phoenix Online or Local?
Noticed that the subject of mignonette came up on this thread. Most recipes for this simple, yet perfect condiment for oysters, do not tell you to simmer the shallots, vinegar, and S&P and reduce by 25%, but this is the secret to a great mignonette. Try making it both ways and compare, I guarantee you will never serve it without heating again.
It does take a little longer, because you want the reduced mignonette to cool to at least room temperature.
Holiday Dinner for Staff (10) Phoenix
Travelchow,
Pretty sure that all will blow your budget, especially if you want a private room during the holiday party season. I would highly recommend the wine cellar at Lon's at the Hermosa Inn. It is perfect for 10 and you can customize the menu and wine selections. Very private and very unique. Again, if budget is a consideration, then Lon's will not be for you. Figure $125-150 per person including food, wines, & tip.
Pizzeria Bianco, Sea Saw & Cowboy Ciao...are they as good as I've been told?
I have eaten at all three places you mentioned-Cowboy Ciao on many occassions, See Saw just last Friday, and Pizzeria Bianco in August.
For me, the waiting process at Bianco totally ruins the overall experience. This has been discussed many times before on CH. I guess it comes down to how much time one has on their hands and is willing to wait for what in the end is really good pizza.
Cowboy Ciao has a very unique menu and an excellent wine list. I could spend an hour just reading the wine list. There are so many wines that you just don't see anywhere else and there are a lot of bargains to be found. It is so hard to decide what to order as everything is great here. If you are looking for a clone of Houston's you won't be happy, but if you want to experience food you don't see everyday (esp. in Scottsdale) and probably won't cook at home, Cowboy Ciao will not dissapoint. Some faves are the Soup, Mushroom Stir Fry, Chopped Salad, and the elk. But everything is great.
Went to See Saw for my wife's birthday on Friday night. When I made the reservation I asked about the omakasse dinner and was told no problem you will be at the kitchen counter and reserved for the omakasse. I made a mistake and did not understand that there are two omakasse choices-one a formatted 8 course menu that changes regularly and another that is whatever Chef Nobu decides to make you.
We were reserved for the set 8-course menu, $125 including wine pairing with each course. It was an incredible meal featuring very fresh ingredients (mostly seafood), small exquisite presentations, and sauces mostly composed of infused oils. I knew that it was going to be a good night with the very first bite- a cold, very fresh Kumomoto Oyster in its own liquid and topped with Sea Urchin. It was like taking a bite of the ocean. The parade of dishes went on from there. How can you not love a meal whose last course is a slab of fresh foie gras sauteed with asian pears? Best of all, after 8 courses we did not feel full or over fed, it was a similar feel that you get after a good trip to the sushi bar. Interestingly, dessert is not a part of the omakasse dinner and is an additional charge. Also, the wine pour for each course is very small, probably two or three sips at the most. In total, we had the equivalent of two regular glasses of wine-not much for a two and a half hour meal. There was no explanation of the wines and no bottles were every presented. The glasses came already with the wine poured. That is a little unusual & I did not get the feeling that there was anyone in the dining room with much knowledge or enthusiasm for wine. Most likely the pairings are done by Cowboy Ciao's sommelier (the two restaurants share the same owner, are next to each other, and share the same wine list).
The only thing that was a little disappointing, is that as we sat around the counter (14 people on this night) and the kitchen with Chef Nobu and three other cooks are just a few feet in front of us, we watch as the omakasse dinner that we had everything was prepared by the three young cooks. We had absolutely no interaction with Chef Nobu and he paid no attention to what we were eating, yet he was working for two hours just a few feet in front of us. On this evening he was completely focused on preparing a meal for a group of three and another group of two that looked incredible. Even though the meal we had was outstanding, we somehow felt slighted and that we were missing out on the best that the kitchen could do. Several times I even asked one of the young cooks what it was that Nobu was making, and most times got either a shrug or a one ingredient answer like "tuna"-which was obvious from the beautiful slab of ju toro he had just sliced a piece off of. Of course we all know that when you dine at a famous chef's restaurant you don't expect that the great chef personally prepared all or even any of what you are eating, but in most instances he is not cooking right in front of you, and for someone other than you. Imagine if you went to a Gordon Ramsey restaurant and watched Gordon cooking right in front of you, but not once make anything you were going to eat and never acknowledge that you are there. You would rightly probably think, "what an ass". We did not think this of Chef Nobu, but it did strike us as a little odd.
I don't know if this was an unusual night or is normal-I wonder if anyone else has noticed this. I do know that next time, which will be very soon, I will be more clear to reserve for Chef Nobu's personal omakasse, which I understand is more expensive. I think it will be memorable and how often do you get to have a James Beard award winning chef prepare your meal right in front of you? Actually, that is exactly what you get at Pizzeria Bianco, as well, for a lot less money and but a lot more patience required.
Sorry for the long response, but to summarize you have chosen three great dining experiences, so enjoy. Only other thing I would add, is if you have time try to get a table at Binkley's. When he is on, Chef Binkley raises his cuisine above anything else in the valley and on a par with the best of New York and Paris.
Anguilla - first time
IMO, the best combination of food and ambiance in Anguilla is Mango's. The food is always good, especially any of the fresh fish. Best of all, you sit outside on one of the best beaches on the island.
You cannot go wrong with Uncle Ernies ribs, chicken, or crayfish, and the ladies taking care of you all day are the best!
Also, you have to go to Scilly Cay for lunch. This tiny island has no power, a very strong rum punch, and a 3 item menu. But, it is the best chicken, crayfish, or lobster you have ever had. Owners Eudoxie and Sandra are the best hosts. This is the way that the Caribbean should be, be rarely is. Sundays are best, Wednesdays usually the quietest.
DO go to St. Martin for the day. Walk over to the marina in Marigot and you can have one of the best French meals outside of France, at Tropicana. If staying in Anguilla, you can only come for lunch due to the ferry schedule, but if you look around carefully you will probably see a chef or hotel manager from Anguilla enjoying lunch at the next table. Reservations are a must.
10th Anniversary in Paris...
L'as du Falafel is definitely casual.
It is a fine line in Paris between eating at as many different restaurants and have as much great food as you can and over doing it. I have found that it is better to have more big lunches than dinners, and always try and plan for a later reservation dinner on days that I know lunch is going to be one of those epic 3-4 hour occassions.
Do you know about Hidden Kitchen Paris? My friends and I were in Paris in September and our evening at Hidden Kitchen was one of the best meals and definitely the most relaxing evening we had. And the price is very agreeable.
Here is a link to their website:
http://www.hkmenus.com/english.htm
Also, must agree with other posters, securing a reservation at El Bulli without some kind of in (ie. call to Mr. Adria from another famous chef, owning a world famous vineyard, or dine with a celebrity) is a very big longshot at best. Good luck.
In Barcelona do not miss Restaurant Passadis del Pep (not to be confused with Cal Pep). If you like seafood you will not find a place that offers up such variety, quality, and fresh product. Best of all-there is no menu. As soon as you sit down a bottle of excellent sparkling wine is opened and poured and soon after the orgy of food starts arriving to your table. What the chef chooses to cook is based on what looks best in the market that day. Huge prawns, sea snails, tiny fried anchovie, whole fish, razor clams, cockles, perfect langostine, squid, baby octopus, and on and on. All of this does not come cheap (don't hold me to it, but I think we spent about 150 euros per person including wine & tip), but it is a memorable experience.
Hidden Kitchen Paris
In early September my wife and I were in Paris with two other couples & had some excellent meals at L'Atelier Joel Robuchon, Pierre Gagnierre, & Bistro duSommelier, but the one we are still talking about is Paris' Hidden Kitchen restaurant.
I stumbled upon a mention of Hidden Kitchen somewhere on the net and after looking at their website, decided to see if we could get a reservation. I sent an e-mail and the response was positive. We were in!
True to form, the day before our dinner I received an email with directions. Not knowing what to expect was part of the intrigue of the whole experience. We were greeted by Brandon and Laura, the young American couple who prepare and serve everything. After 30 minutes or so of meeting the other diners there that evening and enjoying an appertif, we sat to one of the most relaxing and enjoyable 10-course meals you could hope to find in Paris. This was our last night in Paris and it was a welcome change to be eating restaurant quality cuisine (albeit more American in style than French) in a Parisian apartment dining room.
We could be as loud as we wanted to, laugh without getting looks from the Parisians at the next table, & 3 hours seemed to fly by. On this evening, only one diner was French, while the rest were American, either visitors or Americans working in Paris. Everyone had a great evening.
At 60 euros this is a great value, and even better we went to Lavin, one of the best wine shops in the city, and picked up some great bottles of Bandol, white Chateauneuf du Pape, & Cote Rotie, at a fraction of the price we would have paid in a Michelin starred restaurant and no corkage charge from HK.
If you are going to be in Paris for 4 days or longer and want a unique, fun, experience, I highly suggest trying to get a place at Hidden Kitchen. If you live in Paris, you should definitely go and experience these young American chefs and their untraditional approach.
http://www.hkmenus.com/
I would love to hear from anyone else who has been to HK.
provence/cote d'azur restaurant suggestions
Just returned from a three week to France including Paris, Provence, & Riviera. The main focus of the trip was food and wine, and we enjoyed some memorable meals including Pierre Gagnierre in Paris, Le Feniere in Lourmarin, & Joel Robuchon in Monte Carlo. However, all of us (3 couples) agreed that our most memorable experience was at a new restaurant on the western edge of Cassis near the picturesque vineyards of Clos de Magdeline, called Villa Maddie. Breathtaking views, inventive and delicious cuisine, impeccable decor, linens, china, & stemware, a young enthusiastic staff, and a very comprehensive wine program combined to create a memorable three hour lunch. It is not cheap, but is a very good price/value relationship. I am certain that they will earn at least one Michelin star in the next edition (and based on what we experienced I would not be surprised if they open with two Michelin stars). If you are in the area, do not miss this unique place.
I would second the recommendation of La Merenda in Nice, although getting a table does take a little extra effort-but well worth it.
Also, between Monte Carlo and Nice is the quaint old village of Eze, and the picturesque cliffside terrace dining room of Chateau Eza. You must have a reservation before making the trek up to the restaurant, but you will be rewarded with memorable food and views. Only one odd experience there-when ordering an appertif of champagne for our party of four the sommelier showed me a list of champagnes with the cheapest priced at 195 Euros per bottle. I don't mind spending for wine, but I do not want to be forced into something. When I asked for the list of other champagnes, saying that we did not need a prestige cuvee, I was rudely told that this was all the champagne that they offered (two bottles at 195 Euros, several 200-300 Euros, and then many more up from there). I was frankly stunned. The restaurant's lunch menus were 39 and 49 Euros, so I would expect some reasonably priced champagnes (at least under 100 Euros). Since I was entertaining a business client, I felt that I had no choice but to order the 195 Euro bottle-it was good, but really made the overall check much more than I wanted to spend. In 100+ meals in top restaurants in France, this was a first and to this day I still shake my head when I think about it.
If you have a car, I also suggest driving about 1 hour out of Nice to Lorgues and Chez Bruno. If you like truffles this is a must do. The gregarious chef is known as the king of truffles, and his menu does not disappoint. In four courses I had more truffles than in the past decade. His signature dish of a baked potatoe with truffles sounds so simple, but is one of the most sublime and decadent plates I have ever experienced. If you are not into truffles, you won't enjoy this, but if you are it is incredible & surprisingly a good value considering just how much truffle (not to mention foie gras) you are served.
Enjoy your time in France!
