daniels's Profile
Buenos Aires Overview
Yeah, the selection at El Galpón is starting to taper off now that we're off the height of summer. It's never going to be the best selection in the city, but it does offer a chance to buy things direct from the farmers and support small-scale agriculture, as well as some social programs in some cases.
And since we're not talking huge producers, the selection can be sporadic. I got some great squash blossoms there earlier this year, but they were only around for a week. One weekend, I picked up a watermelon. But I haven't seen them before or since. It's all local stuff. So once the season is gone, it's gone.
Also, for what it's worth: The vast majority of it — if not all — is organic.
As for the Mercado Central, it's mostly wholesale but there is a part that's open to the public. I went a while ago and wasn't wowed. I didn't see anything I couldn't find in the city. Maybe things were cheaper (can't remember), but for me it's a long way to go (on a bus) to save a little money. I wouldn't tell you not to go, but I'd be surprised if you went back a lot.
Buenos Aires Overview
If you're facing the Lacroze train station, the market is maybe 200m down an alley to the right of the station. It's in a yellow building. Suerte.
Buenos Aires Overview
For what it's worth: That market in Belgrano is not a farmers market in the sense that I would use the term. That is, as far as I know, they aren't producers selling to the public. It's a European-style market with different stalls/vendors under one roof. Another one like it is the Mercado del Progreso off the A line subte in Caballito. You'll find fish stalls in both of them.
The only farmers market that I know of – where you'll find the farmers themselves selling to the public — is called El Galpón and it's next to the Federico Lacroze station off the B line subte. Wednesday it's on from 9-13h and Saturdays the hours are 9-15h.
Food in Patagonia
Great write-up, aledm.
We spent three days/two nights there at the beginning of the month and unfortunately ran into a lot of disappointing and overpriced food (my basis for comparison being Buenos Aires).
La Tablita, which you mention, was probably our best meal there. We had the mixed grill of lomo, bife de chorizo and cordero. It was good. It wasn't any better than anything I've had in many places in Buenos Aires, but given how many mediocre meals we'd had at that point in El Calafate, it was a welcome change. We did have to go a day beforehand and get a reservation for the following night.
One place I liked for breakfast, a snack or coffee was Don Luis (9 de Julio 250). Three years of eating medialunas in Argentina under my belt and these were probably the best I've ever had. It's off the main drag, so it wasn't packed. The service was friendly and they even had wi-fi (too slow to do much browsing, but fine for sending email). I believe they also do boxed lunches if you're planning to be out of town all day.
Buenos Aires on Christmas Eve/Christmas Day
I wasn't really looking, but I ran across two restaurants last night advertising they'd be open Dec. 24 and 31: Camila (Estado de Israel 4499, Tel: 4864-8001) and El Trapiche (Paraguay 5099, Tel: 4772-7343).
I've been to Camila. It's a solid neighborhood place with a nice atmosphere. I don't know if I'd recommend traveling across the globe to eat there, but it's good. I was at El Trapiche last night and had a very good steak.
Neither is in Recoleta and I have no specifics on their prices or menus for the nights in question, but I'd be shocked if they were charging $150 a head. Mostly I pass this along to suggest that you don't have to get room service on Christmas Eve unless you want to.
Buenos Aires - food & neighborhood recommendations
I'm not trying to be difficult when I say that a lot of neighborhoods would meet the requirement for "lots of cafes, shopping and local flavor." In fact, just about any neighborhood I could name. It's part of the city's charm.
The neighborhood that comes to mind most readily when you say "young and hip" is Palermo. It's where you'll find the greatest concentration of trendy bed and breakfasts, boutiques and "hip" restaurants. Doesn't mean those things can't be found elsewhere in the city, but probably not as many per square meter as in Palermo.
Meat recommendations have been thoroughly covered here in other threads. My recommendation beyond the specific places listed in those threads is to hit a neighborhood slightly off the beaten tourist path — maybe Villa Crespo, Almagro or Caballito — around dinner time or lunch time (lunch applies especially on the weekends), see what's crowded and looks good and give it a shot.
And definitely try the ice cream when you're here.
First trip to Buenos Aires: What are the must eats?
That explains it then. I definitely had a hard time picturing them closing for lack of business.
First trip to Buenos Aires: What are the must eats?
FYI: When I walked by Jangada last week, it looked permanently closed, which is a shame.
