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blacklicorice's Profile

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Prosecco Wine Route

Wow - ekc~
I can't thank you enough for all the details.
I definitely plan to visit most all your recs and have already emailed the Zoff's. Since we don't eat prosciutto, there's time for more more wine, cheese and claps stops. It sounds like you had a wonderful time and I wish you could meet us at the Enoteca while we're there so we could raise a glass to you for all your help! :)
We're only in the FVG area for 3 days - hoping to tour a few vineyards & local producers via vespa one day; explore Trieste on another day and I'm leaving the 3rd day up for grabs. Then we're off to Venice, Florence (with several day trips) and Le Marche.
I'd welcome any other restaurant suggestions, but will probably search other boards and possibly re-post once I've done more homework.

Jan 23, 2012
blacklicorice in Italy

Prosecco Wine Route

:)
Thank you!! I was just about to post a retraction since I, too, finally found something:
http://www.borgdaocjs.it/

Jan 18, 2012
blacklicorice in Italy

Prosecco Wine Route

I'll definitely go searching for them. Thanks for the link vinoroma.

I poked around online looking for Mr. Z and his cheese, ekc. No luck finding an agriturismo or caseificio in the area with an owner with last name Z. I'll definitely take the name or address of the place you recommend for the "Claps" once you recover the empty box as well as Mr. Z's info if you can find it!

Jan 18, 2012
blacklicorice in Italy

In Love with FVG and Veneto!!

allende~
It not only helps immensely, it makes it all the more difficult to wait to get there.
Your detailed insights are greatly appreciated! I emailed yesterday to make a reservation.
Thanks so much to all for all the input!

Jan 18, 2012
blacklicorice in Italy

Prosecco Wine Route

Are they really called "Claps" cookies or did you just find yourself clapping with joy every time you ate one, so you named them as such? :)

Jan 17, 2012
blacklicorice in Italy

Prosecco Wine Route

ekc~
Ok, now you MUST find your notes! :)
Can you tell me more specifically where to find Mr. Zoff? Fresh yogurt & cheese you say? I may need to stop there daily.
Ditto on the "Claps." I'm not a huge fan of fancy deserts, but cookies are my weakness. You didn't find any spectacular cantucci that you need to share details about, did you?

allende~
I wrote Josko earlier. I figured I had nothing to lose, right? I was very nice. Let's just hope nice ENOUGH and that the humor translated sufficiently into Italian! Fingers crossed.

Jan 16, 2012
blacklicorice in Italy

In Love with FVG and Veneto!!

Hi ekc ~
Still undecided about where to stay. I'd like to make that determination based on proximity to dining and wine tasting bookings. I'd imagine somewhere in or near Cormons, though. I'd been thinking about staying (and dining) at La Subida until I'd read from a few others (clearly not your opinion, though) that the quality had declined there of late.

Jan 16, 2012
blacklicorice in Italy

In Love with FVG and Veneto!!

Oh yes! Thank you for the reminder, allende! I'd seen your post in another thread and I meant to explore Antica Trattoria Boschetti further. Somehow it slipped off my list, though. Based on the website, it appears there are three menu options - "Work menu" (likely not a great translation - Menu di Lavoro?) "Tasting Menu" and "Fish Menu." Would you happen to know if fish is always an option as my partner eats no other meat?
When you've been in the past was there always a "fixed" menu course like this?
Given that you've explored this area for many years I'd be curious to know what 4 restaurants you'd select if you had limited time in FVG.
Many thanks in advance for any further information you can share!

Jan 16, 2012
blacklicorice in Italy

Prosecco Wine Route

Thank you for the link and the great reading. Actually, I'd already read your report (and printed it!) and thus knew that the Enoteca Cormons might be a good place to taste wines, but not worth the meal. I will look into the "Gravner style proponents" that you suggested. I've since learned that Radikon and Damian might be open to visits and tours. Hopefully I can get there on a moped from Cormons! :)
Oh, and most importantly - NEVER salted! ;)

Jan 16, 2012
blacklicorice in Italy

In Love with FVG and Veneto!!

Thank you so much for your guidance, vinoroma.
Campiello & La Frasca will be definite stops then - assuming I can get reservations.
I'm also very interested to taste cjarsens and gnocchi di susine (though I might be there a bit too early in the season to find the latter) so I'll likely try to add in Albergo Ristorante Salon in Arta Terme and Trattoria al Giardinetto into the mix as well.

Jan 16, 2012
blacklicorice in Italy

In Love with FVG and Veneto!!

ekc ~

I meant to ask if you made it to any of the following as I'm trying to determine if I should bump something out of the top 3 for one of these?

La Frasca
Da Nando
Antica Trattoria Boschetti

We'll likely only have time for 3 sit down meals while there and there are so many tempting choices. Since my partner only eats seafood and chicken, I'd be interested what the choices were at the meat centric La Frasca, if you ate there.

Jan 15, 2012
blacklicorice in Italy

Prosecco Wine Route

Vinoroma,
I will be visiting FVG in May and would welcome recommendations on any wineries you may know of that welcome visitors. We're particularly interested to find complex full bodied whites that we wouldn't be familiar with in the states. We're desirous to delve into orange wines and those aged in amphora. That said, your entry caught my eye. I welcome any suggestions you may have.

If this clarification helps, the bottom line is that we're more interested in tasting a wide variety of interesting wines than necessarily visiting the wineries per se. If pulling up a stool at a wine bar (that offers a multitude of options by the glass) is a better bet, we'll likely opt for that route. Would you recommend Enoteca di Cormons for this? Or is there a place with a more varied and substantive selection?

Thank you in advance for sharing your insights and experience. It's much appreciated!

If I only visit one winery, I believe this is where I'd want to go. Have you been?
http://www.nytimes.com/2005/05/25/din...

Jan 15, 2012
blacklicorice in Italy

In Love with FVG and Veneto!!

ekc ~
Any chance I could convince you to share a condensed report of your top picks in FVG? I'll be visiting FVG for 3 nights in May and am trying to make restaurant decisions.
Given what I've read on these boards and from Fred Plotkin, I'm trying to narrow it down from the following:

Campiello in San Giovanni Natisone (#1 pick thus far given the focus on fish on rave reviews)
Trattoria al Giardinetto (#2 pick thus far. I hope gnocchi di susine are "in season" in May. Would you happen to know if they are?)
Restaurant Salon - (#3 pick thus far as Plotkin says this place is a must for trying the cjarsens.)

Enoteca di Cormons (for wine tasting only and making snacks, but not for a meal.)
La Subida had been tops on my list until reading of the decline in food quality. Did you go? If so, what was your experience?

Any thoughts or advice on the above restaurants? Am I missing any great finds? Is it a mistake to rule out La Subida?

Additionally, do you have any advice about wine tasting? Did you go? If so, did you find it easy to make reservations for tastings? Any words of wisdom on that front?

Many thanks for your input and I was delighted to read that you had such a wonderful trip!

Jan 15, 2012
blacklicorice in Italy

PUGLIA & BASILICATA "CLOSED" FOR DECEMBER?

Katie: Thank you for sharing your expertise and insights - and for the link!
toitoi: Will definitely explore the Osteria.
LivinginPuglia: This will actually be a perfect spot since we'll be traveling by car from Lecce to Lecce to Ostuni. It appears this is a great mid way stop. Might you happen to know if it's open on Dec. 26?

On another note: Can anyone recommend a wine bar that has an extensive "by the glass" selection? It was our hope to sample many of the local varietals that we have limited access to in the states. Are there any wine bars that come to mind that might fit this bill? Sadly, limited time will prevent us from traveling to all the Puglian AOC's to do this, so I'm hoping to find one bar with an extensive representation.

Many thanks in advance for all the invaluable input!

Dec 05, 2011
blacklicorice in Italy

PUGLIA & BASILICATA "CLOSED" FOR DECEMBER?

Thanks for this and ALL your helpful information, Jen. I've begun trying to connect with my top choice restaurants one by one.

Many thanks for your help!

Dec 04, 2011
blacklicorice in Italy

PUGLIA & BASILICATA "CLOSED" FOR DECEMBER?

Has anyone been in Matera, Lecce, Martina Franca or Polignano a Mare during the last two weeks of December? I'm having difficulty finding information about whether or not restaurants and food related businesses (bakeries, cheese shops, wineries) will be closed ONLY on Christmas Day or if they close between Christmas and New Year. Does anyone have any first hand experience? I will be traveling in Puglia from 12/23 - 12/30 and wanted to visit some of the highly reviewed restaurants I've been reading about on this board. Am I in for a disappointing and hungry holiday in Italy?

Dec 02, 2011
blacklicorice in Italy