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lisaonthecape's Profile

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Rome visit over the Holidays

I've been savoring these posts, especially since we are heading back to Italy in the fall (mostly Umbria and Le Marche, with a little time in Rome at both ends of the trip). I agree with you about the gnocchi fritti--delicious but very rich and, at least for us, too much for the two of us. I think that Cesare would be best with a group of 4-6, although if it were just we two, I'd still return.

Feb 27, 2015
lisaonthecape in Italy

Recommendations for Le Marche this fall

I've researched the site for dining recommendations in Le Marche, trying both the region and several individual towns, but there is precious little on CH about this region. Anyone holding out on some promised-but-never-sent trip reports? I will do some separate research with Slow Food guides/apps but would love to hear from someone who has spent time in Le Marche.

We will be staying in a rental just outside of Cagli. Our typical plan is to take day trips, eat lunch out, then cook dinner at "home." We are hoping to have one Home Food dinner, though, if the timing works out. We will be concentrating on inland Le Marche, not the coast, as we are not beachy people (despite living on Cape Cod) and my husband does not care for seafood. We prefer intensely local places and not fine dining, especially if it involves lots of foam and fusion. As our youngest heads off to college this fall, there will just be the two newly-empty nesters on this trip.

Thanks to all.

Feb 26, 2015
lisaonthecape in Italy

How common is it for Italian restaurants to offer to plate multiple pastas per plate?

Glad that I kept reading or I would have essentially duplicated your post. Cumpa' Cosimo was my first "tris" offering, on menu, as well.

Feb 25, 2015
lisaonthecape in Manhattan

Eataly?

Sounds remarkably like my shopping list there a couple of years ago. I spent a school vacation with my son in a hotel with a tiny kitchenette (you know, two burners, two plates, two pans and not much else) but we happily foraged at Eataly, especially the agnolotti del plin. My son was thrilled to discover the various proscuitti and chocolates, too. Even though I completely understand what many don't like about Eataly, it was perfect for us that week.

Feb 24, 2015
lisaonthecape in Manhattan

Eight thoughts for food-crawling with children in Rome and Venice

Good to hear back from you after your trip; enjoyed your report. I couldn't agree with you more on much of your advice, and especially #6. When my boys were younger, the apartment rentals were a lifesaver. I'll be in Rome this fall, and can't wait to try Emma.

Feb 24, 2015
lisaonthecape in Italy

Cesare al Casaletto – solo dining?

I've been meaning to chime in on your post: I wouldn't write off Cesare, which my husband and I really enjoyed on our last trip to Rome; however, we did come out of there thinking that the experience would have been even better with a group of 4-6. A few years ago, I arrived in Rome a few days before my husband, and some places I enjoyed as a solo were lunches at L'Asino d'Oro and L'Arcangelo and any time of day (depending on where you're staying) at Al Vino Al Vino. I haven't been to Pizzaria Emma yet, but would also check that out (and let me know how you liked it before my next trip, please).

Feb 21, 2015
lisaonthecape in Italy

Would like your opinion on what coffee supplies to provide for a nicer end vacation rental

When we rent vacation homes (mostly in Italy, but sometimes in the U.S.) we always travel with our stovetop moka. Anyone seriously picky about their coffee is likely to do the same. In Europe, it's pretty standard to leave a bottle of wine and a bottle of water, which is also nice. What we always appreciate, though, is a few staples that you don't want to buy in large quantity for a week or so--e.g., olive oil, cooking oil, flour, sugar, salt and pepper. The important thing is to label them with the date, so someone coming in isn't wondering whether these items have been on a shelf for months. Dish detergent, extra soap, toilet paper and paper towels are also key. The coffee is nice, but I find the other items more helpful.

Cacio e pepe in Boston

I didn't realize that Cinquecento was intended as a Maialino knock-off. I just had dinner at the latter and must say that Cinquecento has a way to go to compare. That said, I liked my one visit to Cinquecento and would definitely return (I live on the Cape and don't get to Boston as often as I would like)--but you're right; you can't really call it Roman. Maialino, by the way, makes a fabulous cacio e pepe.

Another Yorkville legend Passes.. Michael Carlevale

Nice to see a mention of Michael on Chowhound; he would have appreciated it. We live on Cape Cod, Michael's retirement home, and he was a very dear friend of ours. We had many wonderful dinners with him, including the night before his unexpected death. We never knew him during his days in Toronto but miss him very much.

Need a recipe to impress my landlord in Napoli

What do you think your landlord doesn't like about Roman food? Too earthy, too close to its cucina povera roots? Do you think something more refined would better suit her tastes?

Just trying to get a better handle on what might work for your dinner.

Jan 07, 2015
lisaonthecape in Italy

Rome Restaurant Reccomendations: Toddler & Infant

Spring is a good time to visit Rome with children; summers can be intolerably hot, which can lead to very cranky kids. Having an apartment is also a good choice--not only will you have more space, but you can also have some meals at "home." When my boys were that age, we found that dinnertime in Rome was just too late for them, so we generally had our main meal at lunchtime. Your kids might be different, though, and sometimes the time change gives you an opportunity to set their schedule consistent with Rome dining times.

A couple of places that seemed family-friendly on recent visits were Cesare al Casaletto and Flavio al Velavevodetto. My kids always did well at Armando al Pantheon, too, and you can't beat the central location. I would not recommend Roscioli; the tables are far too tight to deal with strollers and such.

You mentioned that you haven't been satisfied with prior restaurant choices. Where did you eat in the past, and what didn't you like? That information might be helpful for some additional suggestions.

Jan 04, 2015
lisaonthecape in Italy

Your Meal of the Year 2014

There were several favorite dishes that I had in 2014--the gnocchi we made in a cooking class at Il Salotto di Penelope in Bologna, the tagliata at Il Ceppo in Rome, and the tagliolini with gamberettini, zucchini and pomodori at Antica Hosteria della Valle in Todi. I think my favorite meal, though, was at my house the day after Christmas. We invited our friend Michael to join us for dinner. I made a slow-roasted spoon roast, duchess potatoes, and Brussels sprouts with pancetta and garlic. Dinners with Michael (who used to own Prego in Toronto) were always an event--good food, good wine, good company.

Later that night, suddenly and unexpectedly, Michael passed away in his sleep, so I will always remember this final meal together and what turned out to be his last words to me: "The roast was perfect."

Jan 02, 2015
lisaonthecape in Italy
2

Cuba!! Where and what to eat! Finally to be legal!

I'll second the paladares--my son was in Cuba on a school-sponsored trip in April, and he loved the food there.

Wedding Reception Venue for 6

Where is the wedding? Location would help to narrow down some choices, as would a budget.

Dec 16, 2014
lisaonthecape in Italy

Charcuterie in Rome

Sorpasso might be a good choice. If you're interested in exploring cheeses as well, Beppe e I suoi formaggi.

I'll let someone better versed on porchetta address that question.

Dec 14, 2014
lisaonthecape in Italy

Live from Emilia Romagna

Yes, please! It's been nearly six months since my last Italy trip, and I could use an Italy fix.

Dec 13, 2014
lisaonthecape in Italy

Critique/revise my rough Italy itinerary (Rome/Florence/Venice)

For Rome, you might want to check out Katie Parla's list of restaurants open through the holiday season, which just came out (www.parlafood.com).

Dec 11, 2014
lisaonthecape in Italy
1

Sunday lunch or brunch in Park Slope?

Lots of good ideas, everyone. Thanks for your help, and I'll write after our trip.

Dec 10, 2014
lisaonthecape in Outer Boroughs

Sunday lunch or brunch in Park Slope?

My husband and I are spending a long weekend in Manhattan next month and would like to visit his much younger (30-ish) cousin, who recently moved to Park Slope. We're looking for a suitable spot for Sunday lunch (preferably) or brunch. Here are our preferences: (1) accessible by public transportation; (2)accepts reservations; (3) can accommodate one diner allergic to dairy and another who doesn't like seafood; and (4) not too noisy for conversation. We're flexible about cuisine--we like real Italian (not the red-sauce Italian-American) but would love to try something we can't get here on Cape Cod. Some good craft beer would make my husband very happy, and we would be willing to venture beyond Park Slope to Williamsburg or Red Hook.

Any ideas for us? I'm reasonably familiar with Manhattan, but not Brooklyn, and haven't come up with much searching the board. Thanks.

Dec 03, 2014
lisaonthecape in Outer Boroughs

Critique/revise my rough Italy itinerary (Rome/Florence/Venice)

From your Rome list, my choices in order of preference would be: Cesare, Perilli, Armando. It sounds like you will be dining with just your husband, but if you have the opportunity to join friends at Cesare, I think it would be perfect with a group of 4-6. Portions are generous, and you can taste more things. But don't skip it if there are only two of you.

In Florence, Sostanza has excellent steaks, although I can never resist the butter chicken myself. For a more leisurely experience, I prefer to have lunch there and not dinner, as the latter can be very crowded. Have a light evening meal at an enoteca instead and perhaps a decadent hot chocolate a bit later instead of dessert.

Dec 03, 2014
lisaonthecape in Italy

MIlan Lunch/Rome Dinner on December 26

OK--then I would check out Al Vino Al Vino for the night you arrive. It's an enoteca, but lots of salumi and cheeses, very good caponata. We've often had a light evening meal there when we had a big lunch. It's probably about a 10-minute walk from Santa Maria Maggiore. Also (and no idea if they would be open on 12/26), but you're not that far from Trattoria Monti.

Dec 02, 2014
lisaonthecape in Italy

MIlan Lunch/Rome Dinner on December 26

I can't help with Milan, as I don't know that city well, nor could I find any definite info for the holidays in Rome. I would check out Sorpasso as a possibility, and of course the kosher or kosher-style restaurants in the Ghetto. If you don't mind a bit of distance, Antico Arco seems to be open almost always.

Not necessarily for 12/26, but places that we really liked when we were in Rome this summer: Cesare al Casaletto (not that far--just go), Beppe e I Suoi Formaggi, and Al Ceppo (I know--Parioli--but it's easily combined with a visit to Galleria Borghese, which I find hard to resist whenever I'm in Rome).

Dec 02, 2014
lisaonthecape in Italy

Local dinner choices in Park Slope

Thanks, Jen. Happy Thanksgiving--back to my kitchen.

Nov 26, 2014
lisaonthecape in Outer Boroughs

Monti trattoria in April for solo traveler?

I stayed in the same neighborhood as a solo traveler two years ago and really enjoyed it. The piazza is a great spot for people watching. You will be steps away from L'Asino D'Oro, discussed frequently on this board. Slightly further away are Enoteca della Provincia, which just reopened under new management, and Nerone, which I haven't visited in years. Maureen Fant likes it; others on the board not so much. Urbana 47 is nearby as well, although it strikes me as more modern, less "cozy trattoria."

Also be sure to visit Al Vino Al Vino--an enoteca, not a trattoria, but plenty of choices for a light meal and a great place to hang out with a glass of wine or two.

Nov 26, 2014
lisaonthecape in Italy

Local dinner choices in Park Slope

I was checking out the Outer Boroughs in anticipation of an early January trip and was happy to see this relatively recent post from you, as I am reasonably familiar with Manhattan but not so much with Brooklyn.

My husband and I will be celebrating our 25th anniversary with a New York City getaway. While we are there, we would like to visit my husband's younger (30-ish) cousin, who recently moved to Park Slope. We're looking for something for Sunday afternoon, lunch preferred but brunch o.k. We're coming from midtown Manhattan, so something accessible by public transportation. Reservations would be a plus. We have one lactose-intolerant and one who doesn't like seafood, but otherwise no real dietary constraints. No redsauce Italian-American; "real" Italian is fine (you know what I mean), but other cuisines welcome as well.

Mostly what I'm looking for is a cozy, reasonably quiet place for a good meal to sit and catch up with the cousin. Something that might be a treat for them (the edgy, freelancing types without a lot of money) but not in a condescending way....Any ideas?

Nov 20, 2014
lisaonthecape in Outer Boroughs

Four days Rome, four days Venice

I'm glad you ate so well it Italy, but surprised that San Francisco compares so unfavorably. Although we've barely skimmed the surface of everything SF has to offer, we always enjoy the food and especially the quality and variety of produce. So much better than we get here in New England. (If I had to choose, though, of course Italy would win out over SF.)

Nov 09, 2014
lisaonthecape in Italy

Live From Piedmont

If you know, any connection between La Bottega del Vicoletto and Il Vicoletto, also in Alba, from many years ago? Had one of my favorite meals at Il Vicoletto, but this was many, many years ago. (This was a parents' escape while our boys were toddlers. One is now in college, the other, a senior in high school, so--as I said--quite awhile ago.) The last time I was in Alba, I heard that the former owners now had a small scale deli (perhaps the bottega where you ate?). I think that the old Vicoletto site now houses a very high-end place.

Oct 26, 2014
lisaonthecape in Italy

Live From Piedmont

The "celery like vegetable"--possibly cardoons (cardi)? That would be my guess.

Oct 26, 2014
lisaonthecape in Italy

Four days Rome, four days Venice

For pizza al taglio in Rome: Antico Forno Roscioli and Forno Campo de' Fiori (both in the Campo de' Fiori area) or Pizzarium (near the Vatican). For a sit-down meal, Li Rioni (near the Coliseum) probably has the most convenient location, although Katie Parla recommends Pizzaria Emma--this one is newer, and I haven't tried it.

I also love Maureen Fant's suggestion of Al Ceppo for one meal. We were there in early summer for my husband's birthday, as we wanted something a little more upscale, but still in keeping with my husband's taste for straightforward food--no foam, no fusion, nothing fussy. It was perfect and I would imagine even better in winter, with their wonderful grilled meats.

Oct 20, 2014
lisaonthecape in Italy

Four days Rome, four days Venice

While in Rome, I would definitely try to fit Cesare al Casaletto into your plans (assuming no Christmas closings, which I have not researched). I think it meets your description well (food with a twist but still recognisably rooted in the region). Yes, you have to take the tram, but it's really neither far nor difficult to reach. You can always go to Armando when you're visiting either Campo dei Fiore or the Spanish Steps, since Armando is so centrally located.

Trattoria Monti should satisfy your desire for la cucina Marchegiana.

I haven't been to Vino e Camino and therefore cannot comment.

I do think you should fit some pizza into your Rome experience. Lots of choices there, but you need to decide if you want a "grab and go" or sit-down experience.

Oct 19, 2014
lisaonthecape in Italy