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Burgundy Restaurants not to be missed

Sounds great. I am glad the Ferme got intouch with you.
As for the wine try to find the styrofoam containers in Santenay. There is a great place on the main road pass the main square of the town. They will have the standard 6 bottles packages and you can get two of those withe their matching boxes. About 10 euros each.
In Santenay there is also a great store in which you can purchase some wine in the street next to the main square, it is nicely stocked with many producers. I found their premier crus to bd great and a total bargain. I would really advice you to possible taste some in the town by appointment and then have a picnic lunch with the family around the canal. We found this amazing spot by the canal and had a great time.
Another place that has styrofoam wine packages is a wine store in Beaune in the square with the caroussel.

Also i ran into Monsieur Leflaive while we try to have a tasting and tour of their winery but unfortunely it was full for that day. Seems like a very nice place.
Good luck and i will post some pictures in the coming weeks.

As for Drouhin i don't see why they would not allow the children in. It is a great place and you would love it. If you cannot make it then stop by their store anyways , next to the cathedral.

Jun 21, 2014
javi777 in France

Burgundy Restaurants not to be missed

Hello all. First thank you so much for your thoughtful suggestions on Burgundy. We had such a great time. The weather was radiant thanks to the gods and the wine and food superb thanks to you all. I will write a bit about the places we visited

RESTAURANTS:
Ferme de la Ruchotte:
Driving to the Ferme could be quite tricky but we had a GPS with their coordinates so it was a breeze, lots of one way dirt roads to the gates of this small and modest temple to taste. We arrived promptly at 12:30 sharp, following another car that was in front of us. We proceeded to the small dining area and were seated next to the heated fireplace by the Madame who spoke English and greeted us warmly. The dining room is located in the lower level of their living quarters and adjacent to the kitchen, it quickly filled with about 16 people including us, all older French. We thought we would get what it seems to me to be their regular and standard fare that I had read in several posts: a heritage breed of chicken, so you could image our surprise and delight when we saw written in the chalkboard COCHE DE 5 ANS. The Gascon pork of 5 years was cooked perfectly with its juices and presented to each table in a family style serving copper pan. It was incredible, both crispy and delicate, and an amazing treat. The 45 euro prepaid menu comprised of Terrine de Cochon, Salade du Moment (very simple and tasty, the main dish Coche de 5 ans rotie au jus, puree de bouillon on the side (a mash potatoes dish), a selection of local cheeses by Sauniers (local producer) and finished off with a cream and fresh strawberries desert. We order a great wine from their list which champions biodynamic producer, 2011 Didier Montchovet Bourgogne Hautes Cotes de Beaune. It was a perfect time. The chef came at the end and chatted with us briefly although he seem to not be comfortable speaking English as much as his wife. He sat and chatted next to other customer or friends as we left.

Ma Cuisine:
Ma Cuisine was wonderful and had a very relaxed pace and look to it. It is a simple place which looks much better than the pictures it has in Trip Advisor. We arrived earlier than our reservation (at around 7:30) and were seating by the front door. The restaurant was full already. We decided not to go for the prix fix which we had done in many other placed since their menu look so interesting and did not compare to the prix fix choices. Definitely order a la carte in this place if you make it. We had the seasonal white asparagus, escargots (12 in 1 portion), roasted duck with potatoes and a grilled sweetbreads dish. Finished off with almonds crumble pie of some sort which was great. Everything was cooked perfectly and very gently prepared. It is hearty cooking and yet it was refined. Ordered a bottle of 2009 Champs Martin Lorenzon Mercurey Premier Cru. Their wine list was great and varied with lots of hidden gems, a couple next to us ordered a bottle of 1979 Marsannay which seemed incredible for the 180 euro price. After going I can now tell why this place is such a classic and hopefully will continue to be.

Domaine Comte Senard Lunch, Aloxe Corton.
We arrived on time and the place was quite empty since it is a very large dining area. There was another 2 persons and a large party of Chinese wine enthusiast. We opted for the 6 wines middle range option of 69 Euros. The hostess explained to us their vineyard sites, their history, the bottling types, etc and she was very informative. The wine was quite good and we bought a few bottles that are aging in our cellar as we speak. We day’s dish was had the Boeuf Bourguignon which was excellent. We also took a small tour through their vineyards and in the mediaeval cellars that were recently discovered under the property. Great place for lunch and taste.

Le Montrachet:
This was our last dinner and the place is quite nice and elegant. We opted for the 90 euro prix fix menu which you can substitute any of the items if they are not to your liking. We saw that Egg Meurette was not included in the pre fix which we wanted to try and they substituted it for one of our dishes. They are around 8 dishes including the infamous cheese cart which was the highlight. We really enjoyed a soft cheese that was coated in ash, very earthy crust yet subtle and mild inside. Ordered a bottle of 2007 Puligny Montrachet Les Combettes Domaine Vincent Girardin recommended by the sommelier. The dishes we had were all great and included a crab tartare dish, egg meurette, seasonal asparagus, langoustine with carrots, sweetbreads, cheese cart/basket, a 2 kinds of chocolate cake dessert and an apple tart. We were offer also a plate of small dessert bites afterwards, caramels, etc. We has a great night there.
A tip: Their chicken dish seems to be quite popular and looked fantastic!

One of the nights we dined in our hotel’s restaurant at Chateau Saint Sabine, Le Lassey. We actually sort of sample the whole menu as the day before had wine and appetizers in their terrace. Food was great, duck and lamb dishes were exceptional. Their terrine was my favorite in the whole trip. The other days for lunch we always did picnics and got supplied in several small towns here and there. On our last day we picnic next to be Burgundy canal past the town of Santenay. They had tables and it was perfectly peaceful. Really recommend to search for a spot next to the river in one of the many picnic areas.

We also visited Fromagerie Gaugry around Gevrey Chambertin. The place was great, we visited early in the morning while they were coating the cheeses. They are always open so if you find the door close just go around the corner and enter through their little store. We watched the videos in English, saw the process through the windows and has the tasting at the end. The price is 5 euros for 5 cheeses including Le Brillat Savarin, Le Soumaintrain, Le Plaisir au Chablis (this was great), L’Ami de Chambertin and L’Epoisses AOP, and includes a glass of red burgundy. The tasting room is very nice and we were just with another 2 persons. Bought some cheeses in their shop which we ate in a few picnics. They sealed some of the cheese which we intended to bring home but because we did not refrigerated them they did not make the trip. Lesson learned. The place is great, definitely make a quick stop for the tour and tasting and check out their great shop.

On the wine:
On this trip we were partial to reds and we toured mostly in Gevrey de Chambertin. In Gevrey we did not have any appointments and made only stops at a few places we knew were going to be open for tasting. We visited Philippe Leclerc which was very nice and got 2 Premier and 1 Grand Cru bottles from them (2008, 2009). We also stopped while we were there at Domaine Gerard Quivy and got a few bottles there as well (2009, 2011) They are all very young wine and I will probably not touch them for the next 7 years, yet they have lots of potential and I cannot wait for the earthiness and truffle that is sensed in some of them to hopefully express itself.

We tasted in Alone Corton in Domeine Comte Senard with their lunch. I found their variety and complexity really interesting. We also taste at Santenay which is where we bought a 12 bottle styrofoam container at a wine packaging supply shop at the edge of town. We had debated whether to ship via Cote D’Or Imports or Wine Flite but it was much more convenient to take it ourselves and not have to drive to a place and drop them there and also have to wait for them after we got back. We actually visited several stores and asked all the time about shipping and rates. It seems like if you buy several bottles here or there you have to go to their address in Nuit Saint Georges and drop them there which was not convenient enough for us. We did not have any problems bringing the wine back since we checked it as one of our luggage allowances and customs did not seem to care if it is less than 10,000 dollars in value.

Of the major houses we tasted at Domaine Louis Jadot just outside of Beaune center. We actually made the mistake of going to their Beaune center address for our appointment and were given the correct address, jointing our tour or 4 others about 5 minutes late. Actually on our way back to the car we spotted Rick Steves going into one of his recommended hotels. It was a treat for me since I discovered Rue Clear thanks to him many years ago when I when to Paris for the first time as a student. Did not engage in conversation just a polite nod.

The tour and tasting at Jadot is quite informal which was quite nice. Our oenologist tour guide, Cristine Botton took us through the wine making areas and through several of their cellars before arriving to the tasting area. There she just started pouring and pouring from an enomatic machine. We had several appellations and varietals and afterwards she poured several vintage treats for us, mostly 1990’s. It was quite generous and very nice because it was quick and you could see the progression in the development of the wine while sampling from current to older vintages. Their wine shop is nicely stocked with older vintages at phenomenal prices. Wish we knew that from before but we had already bought and packaged all of our wine. Never thought I would have bought Jadot since they are very common in the States but their vintage selection is very worth checking after the tasting.

On the last day we tour Joseph Drouhin which was another highlight of the wine side of the trip. We toured the cellars early in the morning and we were just the 2 of us with the guide. We toured through the old cellars from the monks next to the cathedral, and followed to the cellars of the Kings and Dukes of Burgundy. All these separate cellars have been connected recently in the past years before Drouhin opened for touring. We tasted 6 wines, 3 white and 3 reds included their flagship Clos de Mouches. Similar to other venues all the wines were quite young but in their store they had great vintage bargains to be enjoyed as of now. Really recommends the wine tour and tasting since it was nice to be immersed in the history of a city seen through the lens of a wine glass. You get to see the remnants of a ancient roman wall to the gate in which monsieur Drouhin who was part for the resistance during the war fled when the Germans came looking for him.
I know I am forgetting other things so I will post later on and try to answer all your questions.

Hope this report helps those who are looking in the forums, and again thank you all for your amazing suggestions. This trip was a surprise after our engagement in NY the previous night and you made it truly memorable with your thoughtful replies to my inexperienced questioning. My compliment and regards to each of you. Will post a link with images shortly.

Jun 20, 2014
javi777 in France

Burgundy Restaurants not to be missed

I believe WineFlite does. It was another option that was available in several places we visited. At the end i ended up getting some styrofoam packaging at a wine packaging supply store in Santenay. The packaging for 6 bottles is quite small at around 16x16x8inches and quite light. Didnt even had to pay for extra luggage since we used our checked in allowance. I bought from 3 producers in Gevrey Chambertin and would have loved to get more vintage bottles at the Jadot and Drouhin tours which had a great price.
If i would have had more info on how easy it was to bring on the plane i would have brought 1 or 2 cases.
Will write a full report in the following days.

May 24, 2014
javi777 in France

Burgundy Restaurants not to be missed

Non sequitor.
Im in Beaune right now with about twelve bottles that we have purchased here and there. Want to ship them with cote d or imports but it seems i must drop them in nuits saint georges.
Went to a few places and they do not seem to havd any contacts for them in Burgundy, only the Oregon address in their website. I managed to get a phone number and an address from one wine store to possibly drop our shipment.
Attached is an image i took of the business card. Do you have an address or number other than this one?
Have lots of comments and will post extensively when j return in a few days.

May 20, 2014
javi777 in France

Burgundy Restaurants not to be missed

I know, Its so tough to plan with limited time.
I think this is the only day that we are planning to eat twice.
We have 2 nights around Beaune and i loved the suggestions of Ma Cuisine and Le Montrachet.

Maybe i will limit the food during lunch a bit to enjoy Ma Cuisine better which i am looking forward to!

May 09, 2014
javi777 in France

Burgundy Restaurants not to be missed

Will let you know. Hopefully there will be lots of interest and they will open when you are there. I'll report when i get back

May 07, 2014
javi777 in France

Burgundy Restaurants not to be missed

Thank you PhilD, that looks wonderful, ill stick with Le Montrachet and save quite a lot of room for the cheese cart. Other than Epoisses, are there any other must try cheeses
in Burgundy?

May 07, 2014
javi777 in France

Burgundy Restaurants not to be missed

Thank you so much! Invaluable info.
Will definitely limit to one large meal being lunch or dinner and snacks here or there.
Will definitely follow your picnic suggestions.
Thanks again!!!

May 07, 2014
javi777 in France

Burgundy Restaurants not to be missed

Leaving in a few days here is the list of what i have so far.
Please let me know what you think

Driving from Paris_Staying at Vezelay
Sat Lunch at L'Esperance, will try to make it on time from Paris
Sat Dinner?

Staying at Sainte Sabine.
Sunday Lunch Ferme de la Ruchotte
Sunday Dinner at Hotel_ Restaurant Le Lassey
Monday Lunch Picnic....Fromagerie Gaugry.
Monday Dinner- Somewhere around Sainte Sabine or probably Dijon?

Staying in Beaune.
Tuesday Lunch- Domaine Comte Senard
Tuesday Dinner- Ma Cuisine
Wednesday Lunch- ? (possibly another picnic) Any favorite picnic grounds....
Wednesday Dinner- Le Montrachet

Have also reservations to taste at Jadot, and Drouhin. We will stop by Phillipe Leclerc at Gevrey Chambertin and play everything else by ears.
Will most likely go to other Caves with many selections which sounds fine to discover multiple producers.

Also interesting in going to 1 or 2 markets to get some picnic food (we have loved the Bonnieux market in the past).
Which ones would you recommend.? Too bad we will miss the Beaune market on Saturday.

Thanks in advance!

May 07, 2014
javi777 in France

Burgundy Restaurants not to be missed

That is really something!!!
Don't know what to do now. I hope the Montrachet has an equally crazy cart and selections
Will definitely make it to Fromagerie Gaugry for tasting and picking some picking some picnic cheeses.
Thank you!

May 07, 2014
javi777 in France

Burgundy Restaurants not to be missed

DaTulip
I'm reviewing all you recommendations since I am leaving next week. I reserved already for Ma Cuisine and Le Montrachet but I am totally wondering about the cheese cart from Bistrot Chez Jeanette. Is it as amazing as it looks on Tripadvisor? Would you mind letting me know how it compares to Le Montrachet?
I'll follow the best cheese cart....I will!

May 06, 2014
javi777 in France

Around Vezelay?

Leaving very soon and we'll stop in Vezelay for a day.
Are there any interesting places in the area that you could recommend other than L'Esperance within a 30 minute drive?
There has not been a post about this in a while i cannot find any recommendations. I am looking for a dinner place and could drive around the area. For lunch we will probably have a picnic from our Paris stock.

Also will be spending another 2 days around Sainte Sabine in the Chateux hotel with the same name. They have a restaurant called Le Lassey. Anyone has heard anything about it? Would appreciate any suggestions around the area.

Already have a reservation for Sunday lunch one of the days at Ferme de la Ruchotte and will post afterwards about it. I'm super excited about this one.

Thanks in advance

May 04, 2014
javi777 in France

If I say Chez L'Ami Jean, you say....

Thanks Pammi, i got that from before....fresh of its Bib Gourmand designation...great choice

May 02, 2014
javi777 in France

If I say Chez L'Ami Jean, you say....

Already made a reservation. It look just like what i was searching for.
Thanks Pamni and John.

I am also thinking of going to some wine bars for lunch, especially the L'Avant Comptoir.
Any other thoughts?
Also would appreciate a good lunch or snack place around Musee Rodin.
Thanks in advance.

May 02, 2014
javi777 in France

If I say Chez L'Ami Jean, you say....

Thanks this seems great. i will call them tomorrow. Hopefully they will have some room

May 01, 2014
javi777 in France

If I say Chez L'Ami Jean, you say....

Ok so i reserved for L'Ami Jean. Tried Frenchie but it was booked and so was Septime. Waiting to hear from Spring which is closed until the 5th.
What else around those lines would you recommend, something with an interesting fix menu.
Thinking of Le 6 Bert and David Tourtain

May 01, 2014
javi777 in France

Burgundy Restaurants not to be missed

Such a great point about Mercurey. Wine Spectator had an issue centered on Burgundy a few years ago (June 2012) that talks about low radar zones such as Mercurey, Chorey les Beaune, Marsannay, Ruly and St Aubun. I will be searching for these in my coming trip.....along with my Chambertin of course.

Apr 29, 2014
javi777 in France

If I say Chez L'Ami Jean, you say....

Exactly...but wouldn't mind something a bit classic either in terms of food.
What do you think of Bistrot Paul Bert?

Apr 29, 2014
javi777 in France

Burgundy Restaurants not to be missed

I sympathize with NonSequitur since my personal preferences are not attuned to white wine at this moment and only buy a bottle when it is an odd grape than i haven't tried before, such as falanghina or vermentino. My palate just responds better to the fruit and tastes in reds. We all have our preferences.
That said i also see your point PhilD since the whites of burgundy are as acclaimed as the red. I will personally seek to try some Puligny Montrachet and Chablis. This is one of the reasons the table d'hote at Olivier La Flave is appealing to me since they focus on whites.

Apr 29, 2014
javi777 in France

If I say Chez L'Ami Jean, you say....

That's what i was looking for!!!!
My compliments and apologies for the confusion.

Apr 29, 2014
javi777 in France

If I say Chez L'Ami Jean, you say....

Sorry everyone i didn't mean that i was looking for basque recommendations. Just some great places to go. Some new ones like ones John mentioned i will definitely research, Basque or not, Chevalier or Clooney.
Thanks

Any more solid options.

Apr 29, 2014
javi777 in France

If I say Chez L'Ami Jean, you say....

Thanks John haven't heard of these before.
Pottoka looks great...any cons with it.

Apr 29, 2014
javi777 in France

If I say Chez L'Ami Jean, you say....

I am more interested in the preparations and the flavor pack combos of land and sea.
Doesn't have to be the same cause he is difficult to match, just somewhere great....please narrow my options with your knowledge.

So far i got Chez Ami which is booked.
Le Chateubriand and Frenchie are leads.

Thanks!

Apr 29, 2014
javi777 in France

In search of iconic meals

In the south if you can make it to La Mas Tourteron near Gordes you will be blown away. Its a beautiful place with a lovely courtyard and a great interior space as well. Amazing food and the winning ticket is their 3 tier dessert table. I still dream about that Calisson Aix cake.

Calisson = ICON

http://www.mastourteron.com/uk/index.php

Enjoy!

Apr 29, 2014
javi777 in France

If I say Chez L'Ami Jean, you say....

Oh come on there has to be something similar, doesn't Le Chateaubriand also have basque inspired constructions.
Please do not make me go to Chez L'Ami for both lunch and dinner because of lack of options. Do not submit me to that,,,noo!

The biggest disappointment in a recent trip for work was to find Chez L'Ami's door close due to Easter week.I had made my way to Rue Malar on a beautiful April afternoon full of expectations and afterwards all that was left was sorrow.

Apr 29, 2014
javi777 in France

Burgundy Restaurants not to be missed

Quite wonderful DaTulip.
Thank you so much!

Apr 29, 2014
javi777 in France

Burgundy Restaurants not to be missed

Mmm Domaine Thierry Violot_Guillemard in Pommard seems like a great find. Very close to Beaune as well.
Thanks for sharing those 2 they are great finds and incredible options. Making me question my already found ones.
Any other insights. What are you thinking as far a wine tasting schedule?

Apr 29, 2014
javi777 in France

Burgundy Restaurants not to be missed

In about 2 weeks.
They have definite availability for lunch on May 17. I am inquiring for May 18 as well which is the day that we can make it to their place.

Apr 29, 2014
javi777 in France

Burgundy Restaurants not to be missed

We changed plans slightly, meaning that we ill not be staying at their B&B, and that drastically lowered the dining options to just 1 lunch date which we cannot make.
They promised to confirm another date once they have more than 10 customers.
Hope it works. Seems a tad unorganized.

Apr 29, 2014
javi777 in France

Burgundy Restaurants not to be missed

I also came across the Forbes article when i was researching. Very interesting.
Great that you mention Gevrey Chambertin, those would be my go to places if we could all dig some out together. Love that wine.

Comte Senard testing and lunch sounds truly wonderful!

Apr 29, 2014
javi777 in France