javi777's Profile

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Italia Trip September_Rome to Venice_Middle to Top

Thank you so much...your experience is worth more than i can say!!!
I will post and take pictures on our return.
Sounds like Alle Vedova is a great option...

Aug 29, 2012
javi777 in Italy

Italia Trip September_Rome to Venice_Middle to Top

I wonder if you could help me at the last minute.
My father has purchased tickets (and he is very willing about this for he loves classical music) for a concert in the Atteneo S Basso near Saint Marks at 8:30 pm on our last day in Venice.
I am thinking of reserving somewhere for lunch so as not to be rushing to and early or late dinner. Could you recommend a place for us...anywhere.
We are already having dinner at Antiche Carampane, Vini di Gigio and Fiascheteria Toscana.

This will be on a Monday....was thiking of Ai Promisi Sposi but they are closed for lunch that day?
Any thoughts? Thanks in advance.

Aug 28, 2012
javi777 in Italy

Rome_outside seating_piazza, alley, anywhere

Thanks Maureen
It does seem that Meo Pattaca has always appealed to the tourist crowds, but I don't think that's always a bad thing. As a tourist myself I don't always look for the monotonous , real experiences of the residents because they after all might be a bit boring. I would hate for someone to come to NYC and try my usual lunch spots that although good they are not what I woul suggest for experience sake.
I think Meo Pattaca tries really hard to provide an experience, with the singers, plays, and actors in their mini show in a wonderful setting.
Hopefully someone here can chime in their food and their ambience.

Aug 26, 2012
javi777 in Italy

What to order here?....Italy_Middle to Top

Thanks to all for your previous suggestions. We are traveling in a week and would love to hear your input on what we should order, as a must, in the restaurants that we have reserved? What are the dishes that are not to be missed and that you usually ahve at these havens. A recommendation for wines that you have had recently would also be lovely. Thanks!!!

Armando al Pantheon

Taverna dei Fori Imperiali


Flavio al Velavevodetto


Trattoria Pallotta (Assisi)

Ristoro di Lamole (Chianti_ Lamole near Greve)

Officina della Bistecca (Panzano)

Trattoria Sostanza (Florence)

Vini e Vecchi Sapori (Florence)

Da Gianni (Bologna)

Antique Carampane (Venice)

Fiaschetteria Toscana (Venice)

Vini da Gigio (Venice)

Aug 24, 2012
javi777 in Italy

Rome_outside seating_piazza, alley, anywhere

I used to live around the corner and tried one of their restaurants once (might have been di Marzio). It is a beautiful place at nigth with the church glowing in golden splendor.
It can also be filled with students drinking so that migth be a turn off sometimes, (although i believe that happens later i the night)...but the confines of the restaurant seating seems to shelter pretty well.

The restaurants there are Sabatini (heard about its quality and high prices), Di Marzio and Galeassi. Any comments on them?

Also, has anyone heard of Osteria Meo Pattaca in Piazza dei Mercanti in Trastevere.
I dined at La Taverna dei Marcanti across the piazza once for a birthday and although extremelly touristy, with an act and singing through a 4th floor window, it was rather charming and the people were having a great time. Any thougth on the food there?

How about restaurants in the area to the west of Piazza Navona, in the smaller streets....only know of Osteria del gallo which is good. but the smaller square is not that interesting. I love this area at night!

Aug 24, 2012
javi777 in Italy

ferme auberges in the Luberons

Do try Le Mas Tourteron, a wonderful restaurant run by a female chef in a spectacular setting. At the beginning of November it might be too cold to dine in their courtyard but their interior dining room is incredibly rustic and refined at the same time. Try the 5 course prix fix and at the end you will be surprised by a 3 tier desert table in which you can choose from up to 12 deserts made daily (Callison Aix was my favorite as others based on almod).
It is an amazing experience.


In Bonnieux try to make it to the market, and specially to the saucisson and the olive vendors.
Have a great time, and watch some Maurice Ronet films in preparation. He settled in Bonnieux where a street is named after him.

Aug 24, 2012
javi777 in France

Rome_outside seating_piazza, alley, anywhere

Thanks these are gret suggestions.
As far as Vecchia Roma, i have passed it many times and know it above all for this great article years ago in Conde Nast traveller about rome, ghost spots and the past that comes to hunts us . I have not heard anything on these boards about their food? Although like you said the piazza is beautiful and Santa Maria in Campitelli is great.

I wonder, mbfant, if you could elaborate a bit more. Does it not come out on the CH boards because it is considered "old fashioned" these days?

I will write all of your suggestions and in our first nights there pass by them to see the atmosphere and compare. Thanks.

Aug 23, 2012
javi777 in Italy

Rome_outside seating_piazza, alley, anywhere

Hello all and thank you again for your priceless recommendations for our trip next week.

In Rome we have reserved for 3 of our 4 nights.
First night at Armando al Pantheon, then Roscioli and then Flavio al Velavevodetto. For lunch we are will be heading to Pizzarium and Taverna dei Fori Imperiali, with a possibility for porchetta in Trastevere, and the search for the perfect suppli.

We have 1 night that we have not reserved yet, and i feel like we will be missing dinning under the stars and golden hue of Rome which is something that i have really enjoyed in the past.
Could you recommend us some places that have amazing outdoor seating as well as terrific food? I would love to hear your suggestions on al fresco dinning. Our budget is around 250 euros for 4.

One of my options right now is Cul de Sac, on piazza pasquino. Would prefer somenthing grander and romantic.
Hopefully you can help! Thanks in advance.

Aug 23, 2012
javi777 in Italy

Italia Trip September_Rome to Venice_Middle to Top

Perfect....that is very informative...I think follow your advice.
We are going to Roscioli based on your recommendation.....Thank you so much!

If you can think of anything else i would really appreciatte it.

Aug 17, 2012
javi777 in Italy

Italia Trip September_Rome to Venice_Middle to Top

Hi Vinoroma.....Any thoughts on navigating the overwhelming Roscioli wine list?

If we will be having the standards caccio peppe, carbonara, etc, what would you recommend?

After browsing the list, i am leaning towards possibly a white, sparkling wine, or a frizzante red....Franciacorta, Trebbiano, Lambrusco....although some reds are starting to appeal....possibly a Barbera...

Anyways this list of close to 200 pages is exhausting.....i think i will only stick to the italian wines.....

Any thoughts?????

Thank you!

Aug 17, 2012
javi777 in Italy

Italia Trip September_Rome to Venice_Middle to Top

Thank you!
I have been debating among so many in Florence other than Sostanza, Casalinga, Da Sergio, Mario and Cipolla Rossa have definetly been on the radar.

Any thoughts on Due G or Vini e Vechi Sapori?

Aug 17, 2012
javi777 in Italy

Italia Trip September_Rome to Venice_Middle to Top

Leaving in 2 weeks.
Any further suggestions for Florence, Siena, and Chianti around Greve?
These are the places in which i am lacking solid recomendations.

Aug 16, 2012
javi777 in Italy

Dinner Near Eiffel Tower

I would highly recommend Chez L'Ami Jean, and would encourage you to do some research on it in the Chowhound boards.

It was the highly of our trip last summer. You really will not be dissapointed and it will be a great introduction to the new edge food scene with Chef Jago's elaborate mixes of land and sea,although for me this place is really a refuge of great tradition: controlled and polished. It is also fairly romantic, while being approachable and regular, and very close to the tower.

There is a new post that talks about it recently in the boards.


Another options from our last visit that i recommend are Robert and Louise and La Regalade Saint Honore.

Good luck.

Jul 31, 2012
javi777 in France

Italia Trip September_Rome to Venice_Middle to Top

Dear all
Thank you for your wonderful and confident recommendations.
Could i get your recommendations for Florence and Siena????
Thanks in advance

Also i would love to hear about your top notch wines to try in the cities that i will be travelling.

Jul 12, 2012
javi777 in Italy

Italia Trip September_Rome to Venice_Middle to Top

In their website they have 2 hour slots for reservations 7:00-9:00, 7:30-9:30 and 10:30.

Jul 12, 2012
javi777 in Italy

Italia Trip September_Rome to Venice_Middle to Top

Thanks for retyping all those wonderful comments. I really cannot thank enough your thoughtfulness and diligence to try to make our visit a memorable experience.

Ahh what to do in regards to Saturday dinner? I already reserved and had my heart set on going to Fiaschetteria Toscana based on your comments, but the similarities with Vini di Gigio could make it a bit redundant (although I am sure that we can try several and different dishes those two nights at both places.
It also seems like Antique Carampane is the place to go for seafood but it is only open 1 day during our stay, the same day as Fiaschetteria is opened. My initial thought is to cancel the reservation for Fiaschetteria, substitute it for Carampane and then go on Sunday to Vini di Gigio.
Would we be missing a wonderful experience by not going to Fiaschetteria that we could not achieve in the other places? Your description makes it look really interesting, delicious and alike my tastes, aside from being recommended in several post and by Plotkin in his book.
Ahh decisions!!!

As far as Ai Promessi Sposi and da Fiore, I will choose Ai Promissi (although i might do a bit of research more since both look fantastic).

Thank you and it is really kind of you for trying to suggest a bacari itinerary based on our sightseeing schedule. I will create a short list of places and try to pair ahead with the places that you have suggested before.
Thanks again !!!

Jul 12, 2012
javi777 in Italy

Italia Trip September_Rome to Venice_Middle to Top

I think i am going to have to add Roscioli as a dinner option for one of the nights. Their wine list, the simple classic food and all your recomendations of it have made me had a change of mind.
I actually was a constant regular on Thursdays for their lunch gnochi while studying a few blocks away. Will go back for their dinner at 7:30.

EKC thanks for sedimenting the suggestion of Schiavi. Might also use Cul de Sac as a wine stop, pate and to talk to Pasquino.


Jul 11, 2012
javi777 in Italy

Italia Trip September_Rome to Venice_Middle to Top

PBSF, i get the first sentences of your reply in my imbox but here there is only the first letter.
Could you please post it again.

Jul 11, 2012
javi777 in Italy

Italia Trip September_Rome to Venice_Middle to Top

Thank you all for your great suggestions.

I have reworked the itinerary to include a few lunch stops (other ones will be quicker affairs), the possibility for picnics, and dinner changes based on your priced recommendations.

I look forward to hearing what you think.



Lunch: Pizza al taglio at Forno Campo de Fiori

Dinner: Armando al Pantheon (introduction to classic roman fare)

Day2. (We will start in the Forum in the morning)

Lunch: L’Asino d’Oro or Osteria dei Fori Imperiali







Dinner: Flavio Velavodedetto


Todi and Montefalco: Lunch at Coccorone or L’Alchemista

Option to have a picnic on our way to Montefalco with some local produce.

Dinner: Trattoria Pallota, Assisi. (This is our hotel also but it is recommended in Plotkin’s Italy for the Gourmet Traveler)


Lunch in Montalcino ???

Dinner in Siena ???


Day 7

Lunch at Castello del Verrazano (wine tour)

Dinner: Ristoro del Lamole

Day 8

Lunch at Vignamaggio (wine tour)

Dinner: Officina della Bistecca, Ponzano


Day 9

Lunch at Imola ???


Day 10


Dinner: Trattoria Sostanza.


Lunch in Imola ???

Dinner in Bologna: Serghei, Da Gianni, Giampi e Ciccio

(Great options have to choose one of these, gearing towards Da Gianni)


Day 12 (Saturday)

Lunch: Alle Vedova, Cantinone di Schiavi

Dinner: Fiaschetteria Toscana

Day 13 (Sunday)

Lunch: Do Spade

Dinner: Vini di Gigio

Day14: (Monday)

Lunch: All’Arco

Dinner: Ai Promisi Sposi , Trattoria da Fiore

Jul 11, 2012
javi777 in Italy

Rome Trip Report

Thanks for the report Jessica.
I myself will be returning in September after having studied there is 2002 and 2006. Will use your great and concise post for reference.

Jul 10, 2012
javi777 in Italy

Italia Trip September_Rome to Venice_Middle to Top

Right i know you havent been to it but it has been discussed ont he boards before. Hopefully someone else could give us a direction.

Thank you for the fresco link. I wish that Montefalco was further than Assisi from Rome just to compare the ealier ones of Giotto to the later ones of Gozzoli.

Jul 10, 2012
javi777 in Italy

Italia Trip September_Rome to Venice_Middle to Top

Thank you PBSF,
I was really hoping you would join the conversation since your suggestions are always tailored, beautifully-worded and informative.
I will reserve one of the days for Fiaschetteria Toscana. Possibly the first night, as an introduction to the city’s classic dishes (that will be Friday)
I am also thinking about Al Paraiso and Antiche Carampane.
As for Osteria alla Madonna and Antica Locanda Montin, there were places that I went while I was in Venice last time. I remember a delicious fritto antipasto there, as well as the black ink spaghetti which I thought was good, even if the pasta and the sauce seemed to be one on top of the other without much mixing and delicacy. My memories of it and of the Locanda Montin are probably weighed up by the then company of good friends in the back garden.

I would love to hear what you have to say about your classic recommendations such as Vini di Gigio, da Alberto, Ai Promisi Sposi, Anise Stellato, L'Orte dei Mori, Tratorie da Fiore and Osteria Santa Marina. Which ones would you definitely recommend based on my criteria and as a counterpart to Fiaschetteria Toscana?

As for the Bacari and wine, i am beyond excited, and will choose a combination of places by the market and the others you mentioned. Any particular wine varietals, producers or vintage recommendations, or roads that I should follow?

We will be in Venice Friday, Saturday and Sunday and I will plan accordingly for opening times.
Look forward to your further suggestions!

Jul 10, 2012
javi777 in Italy

Italia Trip September_Rome to Venice_Middle to Top

I will definitely deviate plans and slow down to have a nice relaxing lunch at Montefalco, at either your suggestions Coccorone or at L'Alchimista. This day will be a rather relaxing one after the large scale sounds,monuments and people of Roma.
I really have enjoyed Gozzoli in the past, but my limited experience is the hyper-detailed, finery -showy and flashy-golden one in the Palazzo Medici in Florence. Will research and climb the hill!
Thank you for that great insight and the rest recommendation!

Jul 10, 2012
javi777 in Italy

Italia Trip September_Rome to Venice_Middle to Top

Hi Jen,
Thanks for the reply and suggestions.
I agree with the Piero della Francesca frescoes in Arezzo, they are wonderful and i have also been to the Scrovegni chapel before (i was actually lucky to be there after the restoration and was allowed to stay for 30 minutes, twice as long as the standard 15 minute time frame. I love Giotto and although the Assisi frescoes are contested i feel like it is a great place to see the early works of fresco paintings from Cimabue, to Giotto to Martini. It is really a place that i think is wonderful and we are going most for the my parents than for me. I am trying to compromise between the things that i have already seen and would like them to experience and to the new ones that i havent seen and might be interesting for all of us in the same level.
Will definetly make it to the Tempio si SanBiaggio in Montepulciano, Antonio de Sangallo is a favorite of mine and i really enjoy his work in Rome. This is very similar to the Consolazione.

Don't want to go much further from the food purpose of his board, although in Italy every experience builts a momentum on the next and a great dinner followed by seeing a great work of art becomes a memorable experience to be treasured forever.

I think my itinerary is pretty much set since i have already reserved for all the hotels. I chose to stay in some of the cities because i find the night ambience in italian cities to be somenthing really wonderful and unique, the peopel moving, dark corners and lampadari glows, etc.

I woudl love to hear you imput on some of the dinner options and possible lunch spots. Look forward to your reply!!!

Jul 09, 2012
javi777 in Italy

Italia Trip September_Rome to Venice_Middle to Top

Thanks barberini.
I will definitely look a bit more into Serghei as it sounds wonderful the way you describe it.
We had initially plan to stop by Orvieto but then decided against it because of time constrains, as much as I would love to see those wonderfully carved reliefs at the base of the cathedral.
Sangrantino is a wine i have never had, although i recently purchased a bottled in NY which is on my cellar waiting to be opened. I do have heard about Sangrantino's hometown of Montefalco and particularly about L'Alchimista for a lunch spot and well as its fine enoteca. Any thought on it as a destination, first taste of Umbria after Roma?

We will definetly stop by Todi as i must see the great Santa Maria della Consolazione (it’s been in all of my architecture books and is an early example of the pure centrally planned church in the way of Bramante and Leonardo, i believe the interior space will be sublime) and most likely will head to Montefalco for lunch (and frescoes?...will research this and thank for the tip) and Assisi afterwards.

I will happily handle the keys after the Sangrantino bottle is emptied.

Jul 09, 2012
javi777 in Italy

Italia Trip September_Rome to Venice_Middle to Top

Thank you Vinoroma, straight to the point and assertive.
I will do a bit more of research about Armando but sounds like a great intro venue (that day will be a Tuesday Sept 4th). Will also look into roscioli and antico arco as well.

As far as Flavio i am thinking about the Testaccio location (Friday, Sept 7)

Can you elaborate a bit about Renato e Luisa and Ditirambo. I enjoy the cacio e peppe ar Renato's and although the preparations tend to be a bit over the top and contrived, it is a sentimental favorite. We have been many times there and are willing to rethink it as well.

I think Filetti might even be closed as part of Ferragosto on our visit. My experience before has been that they open in mid september.

Would you mind recomending somenthing further based on my suggestions.
I am also reading about Chechino's wonderful wine list, from a post by TENORTOM. Might be a place for me, including what it seems to be that wonderful Fiorano Bianco wine.

Sora lella has always been on my radar as well. Great Isola location.

I have already confirmed the reservation for the wine tours at Verrazano as well as Vignamaggio. Would welcome other Tuscan wine recomendations or in Rome as well.

Look forward to hearing from you all!

Jul 09, 2012
javi777 in Italy

Italia Trip September_Rome to Venice_Middle to Top

Thank you so much Barberinibee,
(Really like your chow name...will say hello to your insignia in the works of Bernini in Rome...I love the Barberini bees in the small fountain by Piazza Tritone and of course in the Baldachino.

Your suggestions and input are very thoughtful and sensitive. Thank you for all the recommendations and for opening my eyes to other plans. Will plan accordingly based on your comments.

We are going to Imola because my father has some old friends there and to see the Rocca Sforzesca. San Domenico might be a good detour but i think it is out of our league prize wise for this trip and for our current plans. In Imola we just plan to have a snack or light lunch.

We are indeed looking for a full dinner in Bologna and will carefully review your suggestions. The reason I listed Taverna dei Lords is because i ate there back in 2006 as a student when it was recommended by our hotel during a weekend trip (although i remember it to be a fairly nice place with a few locals and some foreigners, no students whatsoever...well I was at that time..but we were definitely the fish in the wrong pond there as we felt a little out of place . The memory of my experience there is quite a fond one with food on the heartier and heavier side, rich local specialties, and in a nice atmosphere. I am not sure how that would relate to my current tastes so I will follow your advice and skip it.

I will definitely welcome great suggestions for lunch to rest and relax (one of my great previous lunches while traveling was a middle of the day stop at Bistrot de Paradou in the Luberon, southern France and that set a nice rhythm for the rest of the day. I will definitely research some lunch spots and possibly visit and enoteca for wine and small dishes for dinner.

My italian is fairly apt to the challenge of Serghei, i would not want to skip the possibility of a great meal because of a communication barrier. I would love to hear what you think of it a bit more.

Thank you again for your great reply!

Jul 09, 2012
javi777 in Italy

Italia Trip September_Rome to Venice_Middle to Top

Right that is my mistake....Montalcino for Brunello of course..
I have read that Montalcino is smaller and somehow nicer than Montepulciano....anyways this is a mythical city for any wine lover. Will definetly make it.
Thanks Allende...any other thought.

Jul 09, 2012
javi777 in Italy

Italia Trip September_Rome to Venice_Middle to Top

Dear all.

I would really appreciate your help and guidance on this upcoming trip!

My girlfriend and I will be taking my parents for their first Italian trip this September (have been planning and saving for this a while now), so I hope I can count on you to make their experience of the cities, culture and great art a bit more memorable with the perfect culinary counterpart. They live in Miami and are in their 60's and we live in NYC and are in our early 30's.

I studied in Rome and travel extensively in Italy for two semesters during college and grad school, and have my old favorites that I am hoping to revisit, together with your priced suggestions.

Aside for doing a lot of reading in the boards, i have frequented several websites, downloaded Elizabeth Minchili' apps for Florence and Rome, and bought several books including Fred Plotkin' Italy for the Gourmet Traveler.

We are looking for great food leaning towards classic places, dishes and rustic atmosphere, ranging from the simple to the romantic. I particularly love wine and would love to hear also from your local suggestions, producers, and vintages you prefer for the places we are visiting. I am very exciting about this since it will be great weather and harvest season.

Most likely we will have out biggest meal at dinner, but are also looking for some great lunch recommendations. Our price range will be 250 euros for the 4 of us for dinner.

Our itinerary is as follows (14 total days) I know this schedule seems like a bit too much, but I am trying to balance a relaxing time in Tuscany and Chianti while also showing my parents the great Italian cities of Rome, Florence and Venice in their first trip.

Rome is a city I know very well and would love to hear your suggestions. I have chosen these places as a combination of old favorites and others discovered in this board.

DAY 1_Rome

Thinking of a classic place to introduce everyone to Roman food in our first night there. I am looking for a classic place with great standard fare (caccio peppe, carbonara, amatriciana, etc) . Could also be a Roman Jewish food in the Ghetto. Romantic setting indoors or in a piazza is a plus.

Options are: Nino, Armando Al Pantheon, Antico Arco, Roscioli and Taverna del Ghetto ( this is an old favorite (love their torta della nonna), but can't wait to hear your recommendations on Roman Jewish food)

DAY 2_Rome

Renato e Luisa (dinner)

This is another old favorite as i studied in Palazzo Lazzaroni across the street and Renato cooked our thanksgiving turkeys. Have always visited each time in Rome.

DAY 3_Rome


DAY 4_Rome

Flavio Velavevodetto

For lunch we will probably head to Filetti di baccala, get some pizza, etc. We plan of eating light for lunch as not to waste too much time ,although was thinking of Roma Sparita because i am a huge fan of Cacio Peppe and their preparation seems different from all the other.

DAY 5_Umbria

We are renting a car at Termini the next day and driving to Umbria for some great early renaissance architecture and frescoes.

_Todi (visit Santa Maria della Conzolazione) possible have some lunch here and sample some of the great Sangrantino wine.

_ Assisi after lunch for Giotto and Saint Francis, and spend the night.

Dinner at Assisi (no plans yet)

DAY 6.

Visiting Montalcino (not sure what to do but i love the Brunellos and Rossos)

Siena (dinner)

Ristorante Guido is the only one that has caught my attention.

DAY 7. GREVE IN CHIANTI. Staying at Vignamaggio.

Wine tour at Castello Verrazano (lunch)

Dinner at Ristoro del Lamole.

Other options are:

Ristorante Malborghetto, Osteria del Castello, Badia a Coltibuono, Taverna dell Guerrino, Ristorante le Vigne in Radda.

Day 8. GREVE IN CHIANTI. Staying at Vignamaggio.

Wine tour at Vignamaggio.

Dinner at Officina della Bistecca (have reservations already)

Plan to visit some of the smaller towns such as Radda, Castellina, Panzano and possibly San Gimignano.


Dinner options are:

Cipolla Rossa, Cavolo Nero, Nerbone, Osteria dei Benci, Bucca dell'Orafo


Dinner at Sostanza (have reservations already)


Dinner in Bologna (very undecided here!!)

Options are Da Gianni, Serghei, Taverna dei Lords, Caminetto D'oro, Trattoria Anna Maria, Giampi e Ciccio, Meloncello

Day 12, 13, 14. VENICE. (Staing at Leone Bianco)

We are planning on having cicetti at some Bacari for lunch those 3 days, that way we can have a quick lunch while sampling several dishes and some delicious wine. There are several great post in the boards for this.

Options are La Cantina, Al Prosecco.

Dinner: Options are Osteria alla Madonna, Antiche Carampane, Al Paradiso, Antica Locanda Montin, Al Garanghelo, La Zucca, Fiaschetteria Toscana.

I know this might be too much to take in but I hope to hear from your excellent experiences and suggestions. Thank you so much in advance!!!!

Jul 09, 2012
javi777 in Italy

Lyon recomendations.......

Thank you Chef Jeune and EDL!!!!!!
I will definetly consider your top choices, since i am starting to steer away from the bouchon type that we had originally plan to go with.
I will defintly post on or return trip..we are spending 3 nights in paris, the driving down to Lyon with a quick stop in Vezelay. Afterwards we will be heading for Provence with stops in Arles, Gordes and Cassis.

Thank you all for your wonderful suggestions. Time to pick only 1,,,,which im not going to enjoy whatsoever.

Aug 27, 2011
javi777 in France