carlux's Profile
Our six nights in Sarlat, Dordogne- March 2012
Some of us are not ex-pats or tourists in the Dordogne, and I think you can indeed eat more cheaply here than you seem to feel. I think AGM was having a good time and ordering some of the more expensive items (and perhaps eating from the Carte, rather than the Menu.) I'm amazed that their meal at the Rossignol cost so much, but I suspect that a great deal of it was wine.
30th Anniversary dinner in the Dordogne
Our favourite place for celebrations, but for lunch rather than dinner is about 40 minutes from Sarlat, at Tremolat the Vieux Logis http://www.vieux-logis.com/uk/index.php#prestations-et-services.php.
They offer at lunch, during the week only a 'Menu Tapas', which is not Spanish at all, but a selection of beautifully prepared small dishes, which are not only delicious, but interesting. It's a kind of 'menu surprise, and you wont know what you are eating until they bring it (although they do ask for any allergies/dislikes)
The restaurant itself is beautiful, whether you eat inside or in their attractive garden. It's about 40 Euros a person, all included, plus whatever wine you choose - they offer several local options, which aren't expensive. We usually choose one of these.
This is, as I say, our favourite place for celebrations. On the way you can stop in Cadouin, or at Limeuil, where the Dordogne and Vezere Rivers meet.
Closer to Sarlat, and I think just as good as Le Grand Bleu, is Le Saint Martial, at Saint Martial de Nabirat, just south of Domme/Cenac.http://www.restaurant-saint-martial-24.fr/
The owners are charming, and the restaurant extremely good.
Whirlpool Four Encastrable Pyrolase - Broiler setting?
What you have is a built in oven (four encastrable) with self cleaning (Pyrolyse, not pyrolase) function. I don't have one, but the assisted chef function seems to be programs for particular settings.
I would think there is a broil setting, usually marked with a wavy horizontal line, to indicate top heat. Most ovens have the temperature setting on one dial, and the function on the other. Hard to know without a model number. You should be able to tell it to use only the top element to broil, with the temperature turned up high
French Butchers - Chicken with heads and tails
All the poultry (and rabbits) where I live in the Dordogne come with heads attached.
I also remember the time we were helping clean up after a local fete, and the mayor came in with a number of wild ducks he had just shot (he's a great hunter) ready to pass them out to the loyal helpers. I'm used to chicken heads, but this little duck with his bill rather surprised me, and so I think I let out a little squeak. Oh, you dont like the heads he said? Got out his pocket knife and cut it off right then and there,and handed me the duck.
At this point I realised that it was heavier than I expected - of course, it hadn't been cleaned. As a city girl, I had never done this, so off to visit friends who gave me (and another French friend) a lesson on how to do do this. Can't say that I learned much though, as I had my eyes shut for most of the process.
Eating local products in Southwest France from markets or shops
I agree that Rocamadour is a tourist trap, and best seen from above. Park in the Hospitalet, above town, look down on Rocamadour, and I personally wouldn't bother going very far into town.
Figeac, however, is lovely. Try eating at La Cuisine du Marche, very good.
http://www.lacuisinedumarchefigeac.com/
The Champollion museum is interesting - you can stand on a facsimile of the Rosetta Stone, deciphered by Champollion. Also, the town is interesting - not as picture perfect as Sarlat, which got LOTS of reconstruction money. In Figeac they had to use what money they had/were given in constructive ways, renovating apartments for local people, rather than just for tourists.
And you will get salads with gesiers (gizzards) everywhere, so dont worry about missing them.
Eating local products in Southwest France from markets or shops
Magret is duck breast - you will find it in virtually all restaurants - to be eaten rare. As well as fresh, you will find it dried/smoked, etc., which would be good for a picnic.
Cabecou is the Rocamdour goat's cheese.
Eating local products in Southwest France from markets or shops
Most of those places will have farmers' markets, where you can pick up wonderful food.
Toulouse has a huge covered market, with lots of great food shops surrounding it.
Brive and Cahors also have good markets, though smaller.
Souillac, where we go every Friday, smaller still but good food nonetheless.
Cabecou de Rocamadour can be found in all these markets, as will foie gras.
It's always a good time to eat here.
Anything new in the Dordogne/Lot
Not a bad place we live in! We've been here 17 years, and never a regret.
Healthy Food in Paris?
It didn't survive. He was right, it didn't deserve to - she ignored the good vegetarian dishes he suggested, didn't bother to open when she didn't feel like it, etc.
Searching for food experiences in and around Sarlat and Dordogne
Lunch in this area usually starts around 12-12.30, and goes on for several hours, depending on the place. However, usually restaurants don't accept people after 2 - and sometimes earlier - unless it's a quick bistro type place like in the square in Sarlat, where you can get an omelette and a glass of wine all afternoon. Unlike restaurants in North America, most here have specific lunch hours, and then close until dinner.
I would suggest a reservation, especially in July. You might not need it, but if you are coming down from Montignac, why risk not being able to get in? 05 53 30 83 40 http://lebistrodeloctroi.fr/
Uncivilized, maybe, but desperate.....Peanut Butter
We have a jar of Skippy in the drawer now, and I have to say I don't even remember how expensive it was. But there isn't any Intermarche in Souillac - or not that we've found in 17 years. Leclerc and Casino, but no Intermarche.
Uncivilized, maybe, but desperate.....Peanut Butter
Luckily we figure if we are going to eat junk food, then it needn't (shouldn't) be organic. So when we came here we searched for ordinary supermarket peanut butter, which 15 years ago, wasn't very accessible. Or it was Dutch, which just isn't the same.
So for years, whenever people asked us 'what do you miss about Canada?' our answer was peanut butter. Also corn on the cob, but not so easy to get, and so we grew our own for several years. Many Canadian suitcases came laden down with kilo jars of peanut butter.
Now our supermarkets, even in the Dordogne have reasonable peanut butter - and we find that we eat less now that it's accessible.
Anything new in the Dordogne/Lot
I may have mentioned this in an earlier post, but we really like La Gabarre, in St Julien de Lampon, which opened summer 2010. Particularly nice in good weather, as the terrace overlooks the Dordogne, (what there is left of it during this drought). Ludovic worked at the Grand Bleu in Sarlat when they were getting their Michelin star, Valentine is delightful front of house.
They do a cheaper menu during the week at lunch, but also menus from 19-34 Euros - typical menu on their site
http://www.restaurantlagabarre.com/carte.htm
They also do cooking ateliers, for those who speak French. We went to the last on, specializing in Saffron - becoming a specialty of the area.
Shrimp ravioli with saffron broth
Roast veal with tiny vegetable in saffron sauce, potatoes Anna
Saffron macaroon
All delicate flavours, and a good time was had by all - we ate what we had cooked.
June 27 they are doing an Atelier Pique Nique.
GLUTEN FREE IN THE CHARENTE
I live in the Dordogne, rather than in Charente but I was pleasantly surprised when going out last week with someone who is Celiac. We just mentioned in every restaurant that 'elle ne tolere pas le gluten,' and everyone responded well. She even managed to find a corn bread in a boulangerie that didn't include wheat flour.
For groceries, you may have to go to health food stores. Certainly here I've never seen the variety that you see in a Canadian supermarket. But health food stores do have a selection.
When my Celiac sister stayed with me I found it quite easy to cook for her, as it's easy to buy fresh products that don't have gluten additives. Roast chicken, salads, cheese, all good things to eat.
Searching for food experiences in and around Sarlat and Dordogne
We didn't actually make it this week, as our friends came down with colds. So still to look forward to. Always our favourite restaurant.
Searching for food experiences in and around Sarlat and Dordogne
Always for tapas - we really like the change from bigger, heavier meals, and besides it's an hour's drive home, so better done when we are a little fresher.
Searching for food experiences in and around Sarlat and Dordogne
We rarely go to Bergerac, and so don't have favourites. However, I think there are votes for La Table du Marche. But we really would appreciate this more if it were spread out over several months. However, we're having a busy month, and everyone wants to thank us by taking us out. South African friends at the end of the week. Sometimes we do 'just say no' but probably not often enough.
Searching for food experiences in and around Sarlat and Dordogne
About to eat myself silly in the Perigord this week. Tomorrow La Gabarre, already discussed, then somewhere in Bergerac on Tuesday when picking up roses from a local grower, then the Vieux Logis in Tremolat, one of our all time favourites, Thursday. And last week Chez Alphonse in Limoges, really good. Beginning to think it would be good for all our generous friends who want to take us out to go back to Toronto/Hawaii/Australia so that we can go back to a slower pace. And perhaps have some hope of losing weight!
Trappe Echourgnac in Paris or Bordeaux?
It's even in the supermarkets in the Dordogne (our local Leclerc anyway) so hard to imagine you wouldn't find it in Bordeaux
Searching for food experiences in and around Sarlat and Dordogne
From a review in the Sud-Ouest June 2010:
'Après un Baccalauréat professionnel à l’école hôtelière du Touquet, Ludovic a fait son apprentissage dans un restaurant étoilé au Michelin et a travaillé dans des restaurants parisiens réputés. Après une expérience au Mexique de dix mois avec Valentine, il a été son propre chef dans un établissement du Val d’Isère avant de devenir second au Grand Bleu où il a contribué à décrocher l’étoile au Michelin .'
http://carluxais.blogs.sudouest.fr/gastronomie/
Searching for food experiences in and around Sarlat and Dordogne
Two very recent recommendations:
La Gabarre, St Julien de Lampon - about 15 km.east of Sarlat.
We were there last night (and several times last year) and it is really excellent. The chef worked at Le Grand Bleu in Sarlat, with the team that obtained a Michelin Star. His wife does front of house, and is charming. Two course menus at lunch, 2-3 at dinner.
I had foie gras with rhubarb confit, spring lamb 'two ways', one being with very interesting spicing, from somewhere in the Middle East. Then a strawberry tart beautifully presented, with basil ice cream. Great food, inventive cooking, great location, above the Dordogne. Highly recommended. (Sorry, I dont take photos - usually too busy appreciating the food.)
http://www.restaurantlagabarre.com/carte.htm
Monpazier, Bistrot 2.
Earlier in the week we were in Monpazier, buying fabric at Karine B, lots of Provencal type fabric, and even better as they were getting rid of ends of line, at 50% off. Just across the square (Forail) is the Bistrot 2. Again an excellent meal, as we sat under the wisteria, had white asparagus with lemon cream dressing, large and very tender pork chop with oven roasted potatoes, strawberries with almond cream, for 19.75 Euros.
http://bistrot2.fr/
Toulouse - gluten free dining
You might find this interesting - someone writing about travelling as a celiac in France. Refers also the the French site for those who are intolerant to gluten
http://www.celiac.com/articles/21485/1/France-sans-Pain-How-to-Travel-Gluten-Free-in-France/Page1.html
And cards with information to give to a restaurant
http://www.celiactravel.com/gluten-free-cards/14-french.html
My experience of travelling with someone who has dietary issues is that it really varies from one restaurant to another - and it doesn't always depend on the quality or price range of the restaurant. Sometimes they hear part of the message, but not all, and so still bring something he can't eat. Sometimes they just provide the safest/but dullest meal, sometimes they go out of their way to provide something even more interesting than what the rest of us get. Just be careful, and if you have doubts, despite your conversation with the waiter, ask again - sometimes the message hasn't been transferred to the kitchen.
Rounding out the restaurant list in the Dordogne
Just a correction - you will be in Nadaillac de ROUGE, - only about 10 minutes from us. If you are going to the Vieux Logis, I'd highly recommend the weekday lunch menu. Excellent value, superb food, and since it's a good hour's drive home, better to do it in the afternoon than in the dark after a long meal.
Also consider Bistrot: d'Epicure in Castels, just outside St Cyprien. I've never seen it mentioned here, but it's very good, more interesting food than many other duck-centred restaurants, and run by a charming couple.: 05 53 30 40 95
Restaurants in Dordogne/Lot region
Two suggestions that I haven't seen here, one in St Cyprien and one about 40 minutes away.
Le Bistrot d'Epicure in Castels, about 1 km. from St Cyprien Tél : 05 53 30 40 95 . Interesting food, more imaginative than many in the area, run by a charming couple.
LE Vieux Logis in Tremolat. A Michelin one star, with a great weekday lunch 'Menu tapas' Not Spanish tapas, but tiny (and plentiful) tastes of, again very imaginative cooking. IT used to be VERY good value, and at 39 Euros is still pretty good for what you get.
A gorgeous site, beautiful room. Our favourite, even though we have to drive an hour to get there. http://www.vieux-logis.com/
I wouldn't spend too much time in Rocamadour - the view of it from afar is the best.
Restaurants in Dordogne/Lot region
I don't think Les Ecuries exists any more. I haven't heard anyone talk about it for several years, and there is no listing in the telephone book.
Is it truffle season in France?
Since the original poster actually asked about truffle season in France, not just in Paris, I thought I'd mention that in the Perigord, Sarlat has its Fete De La Truffe 16th and 17th January 2010 (and has the truffle market from 2 December to 17 March.)
At the fete, there are visits of the old town, demonstrations of preparing/cooking truffles, and a 'diner gastronomique.'
http://www.truffe-sarlat-perigord.com/
Does anyone know the Krups stand mixer?
I live in France, where the range of stand mixers is somewhat different. For the last year I have had an ongoing saga of trying to choose/keep a good stand mixer.
I started with the Kitchenaid Artisan (regular 570 Euros here, avaiable online around 400) which was defective, the head wouldn't stay down. Since then I have checked them whenever I go to an appliance store, and find that a number of them have the same problem. So I'm a little leery of buying one without testing it. (This is about the only model available here)
Having sent the KitchenAid back, I then bought a Kenwood Chef Titanium (made by Delonghi in the US) After 3 weeks I had a problem with the patisserie head, which broke partly my problem, partly theirs. Took it to the recommended repair shop for a new part (had the Kenwood 1 year guarantee, and two year vendor guarantee). That was last July. After waiting 7 weeks for the part the repair man suggested asking for a replacment, as he had had no luck getting parts for a year!. Everyone agreed this was the right way to go, he says he took the serial number plate off the machine, and sent it to the vendor. They say they never got it, and since then nothing seems to happen. I write/call regularly to Kenwood France, the vendor, even Kenwood UK, pointing out tha someone shoudl care that I havent had a machine for 7 months.
SO far no luck.
If I ever get a refund, obviously I dont ever want to deal with Kenwood again (too bad, I had an earlier machine of theirs for 25 years, and loved it) Recently saw someone on French television using a Krups stand mixer, which is somewhat cheaper and looked reasonably good. Does anyone have experience with this? I don't know if it's even sold in the US, so maybe American experience is limited. Thanks.
Is there brown sugar available around Aix-en-Provence or on-line?
Regarding molasses, you may be able to find it in a health food store. An alternative is the 'foreign' food section of your supermarket. This is often heavily British, and I found black treacle there - I use it for bran muffins, and it seems to work.
I haven't had any luck with brown sugar in France though. It isn't what I was used to in Canada, not the same moisture content at all. I had always understood that North Amrican brown sugar was at least partly unrefined.
And here most sugar is from sugar beets, not cane.
