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shakti2's Profile

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Please suggest NOT THIS

Smilingal, what happened to your idea of sticking to restaurants where you can order from the carte ? They are the majority of establishments in Paris - fixed-only is typically a minority of relatively small places and there is absolutely no need for you to even consider them, since you know your own priorities. You've posted on the Tablettes de Nomicos thread - that's a fine option, what didn't you like about it ?

Anyway, take a look at Terroir Parisien (2 locations in the 1st and 5th) and the Constant mini-empire on rue St.-Dominique (Cafe Constant, Cocottes etc). These are visitor-friendly, in central locations convenient for sight-seeing, serve updated bistro dishes which will fit most people's ideas of French cuisine and will have sufficient menu choices for unadventurous eaters including steak and chicken (or at least some kind of poultry).

http://www.yannick-alleno.com/restaur...
http://www.yannick-alleno.com/restaur...
http://www.maisonconstant.com/restaur...

about 10 hours ago
shakti2 in France

First time in Paris and I'd love some feedback on my list...

Dr. T speaks with wisdom as usual : yes, reserve always especially in your central visitor-heavy quartier; yes, your list is heavy on a certain type of trad restaurant (meat-centric cuisine, waiters in black-and-white and long aprons, old-school interior). If this is intentional, carry on. If not, you may want to add in some diversity.

For more contemporary near you : Saturne, Heimat. For celebratory : le Grand Vefour. For no reservations : the downstairs tapas-oriented part of A. Noste. For a sweet local place, I'll also throw in le Rubis on rue L. Bellan (not the one on marche St.-Honore) for carefully-sourced nicely-cooked plats in a casual but convivial space with nice folks keen on natural wine.

Or try out Pirouette first, which is a fairly representative modern chef-driven bistro, and adjust your plans accordingly if you find this style to your taste.

Jul 27, 2015
shakti2 in France

Place d'Italie

Place d'Italie is famous for its Asian restaurants. Look for the ones which have Thai, Laotian, Cambodian and Chinese dishes on the same menu, so you can try everything !

Jul 24, 2015
shakti2 in France

Paris for 4 nights - recommendations/advice for mid range to cheap eat

Breakfast in Montmartre : any one of the cafes along rue des Abbesses should be able to provide what you're looking for. Le Sancerre usually looks to have the most lively crowd and Coquelicot is attached to its own well-regarded bakery. Or if you want to buy your own to eat on the go, the bakers at the Grenier a Pain branch on Abbesses have multiple awards for both baguettes and croissants (you'll spot it from the queues).

Veggie-heavy North African dinner : I like le Tagine in the 11th for warm hospitality and their cooked dishes usually strike me as loaded with veggies although I don't specifically remember that they have a veggie-only option. Easy metro ride, 1 change at Daumesnil from Bercy.

Superb-value modern French : Tempero or its spin-off Comptoir Tempero in the 13th. I've only been to the latter, once, but everything we had was terrific with one particular dish sounding very odd on paper (raw fish with a pearl-barley 'risotto') and proving to be an absolute knock-out in person. Very nice folks front and back. Lunch on weekdays (15 euros for 2 courses), dinner only on Thurs and Fri. A couple of stops from Bercy to Nationale/ Chevarelet/ Bibliotheque FM, no changes. This would be a no-brainer for me, if I were in your shoes.

On modern food, the differences between eating in France and elsewhere are there if you care to notice them - access to local ingredients including wine, many of which are produced and distributed with traditional or non-industrial methods; cooks - even young ones - trained within a particular tradition and many having exposure to large-scale rigorously classical kitchens. And in Paris, you have the willingness of a sophisticated local and visiting customership to support quality and ambition, and great breadth and depth in terms of restaurant choices at many levels in most neighbourhoods vs. a handful of 'special' places which you would cross town to find in other cities. My mileage clearly differs from others.

Jul 24, 2015
shakti2 in France

Upcoming Paris trip advice...Neige D'ete, A.T., ES, Pages, Gares aux Gorilles and more?

I've liked Hexagone and JF Piege's new-ish Clover recently for upscale and somewhat fashion-y (the former in a more grown-up way and with very accomplished food, the latter for better people-watching but cramped conditions).

Jul 23, 2015
shakti2 in France

La Cave à Michel

I'd recommend counting Sunday out, even early. I was one of the crowd drinking outside at 8, going in to get food never looked like a possibility (luckily my husband and our friend arrived earlier and secured a bottle plus glasses) and we ended up at one of the cafes on the square at 10, with steak frites and a sad excuse of a caesar salad, which was all the kitchen had left at that point.

Jul 23, 2015
shakti2 in France
1

Suggestions needed for Menton, Ste. Agnes, Gorbio, Nice et al...

A really pretty part of the world, lucky you.

For getting to Nice, wonder if you've considered the train instead ? The Nice ville station is a 15-ish minute walk to the beachfront promenade or an easy tram ride through downtown to the vieille ville. Or you can hop off at Riquier before the main train station for a 15-ish min walk to the lively port area and a couple of tram stops to the old town. You can get the train from Menton ville or drive and park somewhere along the route - there is handy parking at Cap d'Ail and Beaulieu, if memory serves.

On Bistrot d'Antoine vs. Comptoir du Marche, the owner now has 3 establishments, and all seem to share pretty high standards. The differences seem to be the customers (more local at the newest Bar des Oiseaux, least local at the longest-running Bistrot d'Antoine especially if you dine early) and the addition of a fresh-pasta element to many dishes at Bar des Oiseaux which is a collaboration with a local specialist pasta-maker (pasta is very much part of cuisine Nicoise). Otherwise the style of cuisine is similar at all 3 places (modern bistro with some non-trad but very tasty takes on local dishes) and Comptoir du Marche and Antoine do have quite a bit of menu overlap.

Also the owner has been a very visible presence at Bar des Oiseaux when I've been this past spring and summer, which seems to contribute to the nice buzz of the room (or rather the series of adjoining rooms), along with the more-local crowd.

Jul 23, 2015
shakti2 in France

Wild Goose chases wanted...

This is entirely tangential even to this wide-ranging thread but I think I've once had soft-serve ice-cream made entirely and exclusively from high-quality full-cream cow milk, no other additives.

It was in a Tokyo department store running a Hokkaido food fair with all sorts of regional foodstuffs for sale, including a case full of milk and other goods from some special cottage-scale producers. There was also a soft-serve ice-cream stand, and I saw the lady in charge grab bags of this for-sale milk and pour it straight into the hopper of her machine.

Of course I had to have some after seeing this (also the long row of people happily slurping away at their cones was persuasive). The stuff was hauntingly good, very intensely dairy-flavoured, no more sweet-seeming than a glass of milk, a little savoury even (no tanginess though). Perhaps the machine was already loaded up with sugar and whatever necessary chemical coagulants, perhaps not. But I've tried 'Hokkaido soft serve' many times since then in hope of recapturing the experience, without success.

Anyway, I just mention it as a nice thing to do with superb-quality milk.

Jul 20, 2015
shakti2 in France
1

Ice cream

'Not a lot of posters here have eaten out or published more than he.'

+1 and some of us would hardly venture to post if Rio's thoughtful critiques and imaginative prose set the benchmark, instead of being freely served up as a generous treat to his readers.

In both French and English, on the dining scene in Paris, Seoul and elsewhere, mind.

Jul 19, 2015
shakti2 in France
1

Wild Goose chases wanted...

Spoilage isn't a big issue in the absence of complicated connections. Any cheese can go in a checked bag; I sometimes have vacuum-packed non-runny cheese in my cabin bag and ask the steward, very nicely, to store it in the plane's chiller cabinet for the duration of the flight. On anything more specific, here's a long US-oriented thread :

http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/747205

Jul 17, 2015
shakti2 in France

Wild Goose chases wanted...

My current special excursions are to the marche Dejean near Chateau Rouge (more for the waxed-cotton shops than for the food, though there's plenty of interest, many variants of chillies and starchy root vegetables, eye-popping displays of butchered goat/ sheep) and to the well-priced good-quality cheese shop in the marche Beauvau for when I'm set to buy kilos for the trip home (many thanks to Delucacheesemonger for this one !)

Looking forward to hearing others !

Jul 17, 2015
shakti2 in France

Les Chouettes, Paris - report

I generally *DREAD* experimental food (especially as a paying customer) but oh yes, there are sometimes rare breakthroughs and they are shocking and wonderful.

Jul 17, 2015
shakti2 in France

Itinerary Review - Paris and Nice, September 2015

Your Nice list is very much less interesting than your Paris one, I'm afraid. Since you've posted elsewhere seeking Nice resources, I'd suggest looking at le Fooding's recs as a start - their list is a little top-heavy with particular favourites (Armand Crespo's establishments and la Part des Anges and its spin-offs) but I've enjoyed all these places nevertheless. I also like Palmyre and Voyageur Nissart for cuisine nicoise and great hospitality, and you might consider Lou Pantail near place Liberation and Acchiardo in the old town for nicoise-italien (the latter is pretty much entirely visitors before 10 pm).

I'd take any of these over l'Agua, which delivers well enough but at a rather higher price point for an all-fish all-local all-line caught menu. I haven't eaten in any of Keisuke Matsushima's Nice places after a direly bad experience at their Tokyo outpost but Poseidon near the main resto may be a better bet than Ecole de Nice, which seems to be limping along without customers every time I've passed. Cafe de Turin is a good Sunday stand-by with great people-watching if you get a table on beautiful place Garibaldi, but quality can vary.

Also consider making a short hop to Menton for Mirazur whose cuisine will appeal if you like the franco-nipponaise style of Sola, Pages etc (full disclosure though : I'm unlikely to return myself unless the service issues get fixed).

Have a great trip, looking forward to see your report !

Jul 17, 2015
shakti2 in France

Is it acceptable to just order a plat?

Actually, you are less likely to be knocked sideways by portion size for confit de canard where a standard portion is a single duck leg, albeit a meaty one, with fried potatoes and some salad greens. The comments on size may have more to do with items like foie gras where chez Josephine cuts 2 generous slices per portion iirc, or braises which comes in their own cocotte, or desserts.

There are also restaurants and wine bars which do a small-plate format at dinner time, in case that works better for you. But even for these, Parn's comments still hold. There is nothing to prevent you from ordering just a plat but you certainly wouldn't have the energy of the house on your side as a non-drinking single-course solo diner.

Jul 09, 2015
shakti2 in France
1

Ober-salé - Rio Yeti report

'A split forum'

Well yes, but those of us who are here for the free-form exchange of views between interested food-lovers are unlikely to bother with a board whose function is to dispense concierge-style on-demand advice for visitors. Also I feel certain we've had this discussion before ...

Jul 09, 2015
shakti2 in France

Trip report, Paris Part 2: GrandCoeur, Neige d’été, Ellsworth, Pirouette, Spring, L’Avant Comptoir, Pierre Sang Boyer Oberkampf, Le Cinq, Gare au Gorille, Bistrot Paul Bert

Onzième's linked carte clearly says the lunch menu is on the blackboard.

I wouldn't call it below-par waitering if a diner ignores this info and replaces it with his own take that the prices apply to the rest of the carte.

Anyway, hopefully your upset will continue to recede.

Jul 09, 2015
shakti2 in France
1

Lyon, France - Poulet de Bresse?

Sadly Lyon isn't part of my routine but in case it's helpful, here's where I would eat this kind of thing in Paris - their 'famous' poulet in cream with vin jaune and morilles is on the carte at 30 euros :

http://www.auberge-bressane.com

Jul 06, 2015
shakti2 in France
2

Lyon, France - Poulet de Bresse?

"Volaille is a word for chicken breast."

Really makes you wonder about what passes as expertise ...

But thanks Pti for shedding light on why I can buy a quite useful bone-in skin-on joint at the butcher but receive a blob of uninteresting white meat when ordering the same thing at a restaurant. And chicken with morels is definitely traditional - it says springtime in France to me, even though I didn't know about its regional origins.

Jul 06, 2015
shakti2 in France
1

Paris - back to the 9th, all of September

Yes do. I went for lunch when they first opened, was bowled over, but somehow didn't follow up on my own mental note to try dinner until recently. Nice to see them thriving.

Jul 03, 2015
shakti2 in France

Paris - back to the 9th, all of September

Hi Peter, my Affranchis info was an impression formed by peering in at the window - you should definitely take a look and decide for yourself since you'll be right there. I've since looked at Dr. T's reviews and they do indeed seem like nice folks worth supporting.

Btw the boulangerie Petrin Medieval on Henri Monnier has a good levain-raised baguette, sold as 'baguette Medieval' surprise surprise. And on this one, I go by the evidence of my tastebuds, not just my eyes :)

Jul 03, 2015
shakti2 in France

Paris - back to the 9th, all of September

Evidence of my own eyes sir !

Coulisses had a curtain drawn over a dusty window (and a small for-rent sign iirc). Affranchis had a short unambitious menu posted which seems to have had a price re-set vs. the one which accompanied reports of the ownership change in March :

http://www.gillespudlowski.com/112820...

(not that I quibble over whatever small increase folks want to try on but I recall dining quite well at the old Affranchis for under 35 euros/ head before drinks, which seems to be the magic number for many of the spots on PeterCL's list)

Jul 01, 2015
shakti2 in France

14th around Montparnasse

Rue Daguerre is a neighbourhood shopping street and will be very lively on a Saturday, with shops extending onto the partly-pedestrianised street. The big fishmonger on the Denfert-Rochereau end has an annex for oysters and chilled seafood - good prices sometimes on the usually pricey Gillardeaus. For more fish, I like la Cagouille, which isn't universally loved on this board, but which gets a big vote for reliably excellent fish cookery from folks I know at the nearby Tour Montparnasse who regularly take clients. The weekend lunch crowd runs more to multi-generation families, grandma, grandpa, kids, pets.

Jul 01, 2015
shakti2 in France

Paris - back to the 9th, all of September

For narrowing down : Les Coulisses seems to be no more and les Affranchis seems to have taken a confused turn since a recent change of ownership (initial hop in prices for similar cuisine as its neighbourhood peers, then a reversal accompanied by a menu re-org).

To increase the riches : I would check out Oka on rue Tour d'Auvergne if you like less-trad French. 6 itty-bitty but beautifully-rendered courses, unusual flavour combinations which work, a young Brazilian chef and his Sri Lankan #2, lots of soul as Mangeur would put it. 2 seatings at dinner, 35 euros a head.

Jul 01, 2015
shakti2 in France

Last night in Paris. Have reservations at Bones, but having second thoughts...

Parn will decide for himself if/ how to respond, but online fora work when people take the time and trouble to contribute. If they choose what and how to contribute, I don't see anything to wonder at - in fact I usually assume that a pseudonymous poster withholds details out of consideration for dining companions who may not appreciate their shared experience being recounted to online strangers.

Jul 01, 2015
shakti2 in France
1

Last night in Paris. Have reservations at Bones, but having second thoughts...

As an aside, Mme. Mangeur, I want to mention a terrific recent lunch at Comptoir Tempero in the 13th (hat-tip to Dr. T and Parn who originally put it on my radar, I think). I suspect we have similar palates - happy with tangy and/ or herbal flavours, smaller plates, not too much protein - and I was really very happy with this meal. We had a precisely-seasoned bar ceviche, nicely-cooked magret with lightly-pickled veggies and more raw fish atop risotto-style barley. The chef has a wonderful touch with balancing acidity with lushness. And for my money at least, plenty of soul in a small but busy room with a single server and 2 young folks in the kitchen.

(not that much money was involved - these marvels were consumed for 15 euros for 2 courses ...)

Jun 30, 2015
shakti2 in France
1

Last night in Paris. Have reservations at Bones, but having second thoughts...

Well, there are bystanders who enjoy the move-able feast of Parnassien's approach though (this one at least) and it may well take the pressure off OP's decision-making to know that there are many right answers to his question, not just a single guru with a single correct answer.

I myself have loved Bones much less than others - too many misses on a single menu - and the crowd, tight space and noise in Paris' current hot weather can't be pleasant.

Jun 30, 2015
shakti2 in France
1

Last night in Paris. Have reservations at Bones, but having second thoughts...

Coretta needs a lunch-time caveat to skip the ungenerous and uninteresting 24-euro menu dejeuner in favor of the carte. At a recent meal, the former was an egg in beurre noisette followed by a mushy and flavourless lieu jaune, which my husband took (along with the majority of the visible diners in the restaurant's upstairs space). Both dishes looked and tasted beige and boring, missing some final seasoning or garnishing to snap together overly-similar flavours and textures.

I on the other hand, ate a delicious cuttlefish with tempura asparagus dotted with 2 contrasting sauces, followed by ris de veau imaginatively paired with rhubarb, both excellent, and seeming to have come from an entirely different operation than my poor husband's meal. Closer to 50 euros though including the supplement.

Gorille's short and sweet lunch menu is much less susceptible to the lottery of poor choices.

Jun 30, 2015
shakti2 in France
1

Trendy Paris grab and go lunches

Newly-opened Plisson on blvd Beaumarchais fits a lot of your brief : casual setting, eat in or takeaway, continuous hours, adjoining emporium with stylish-looking food in glass cases, nice-looking crowd (early days though) and a quick walk from the Sunday-shopping epicentre at rue des Rosiers.

Jun 28, 2015
shakti2 in France

Southern France - Input on Food Itinerary Requested

2 cents :

I am agog at the ambitiousness of your driving/ touring schedule. Agree with Jake that roads can be rather slower than expected and also add that getting in/ out and finding parking in some of your larger destinations will be a challenge (I recall from one trip that exiting from Aix took an hour).

In between Nice and Cassis, you can snack in Antibes. I recommend Veziano, a 2nd-generation baker that supplies many of the prominent restaurants on the coast (try the pissaladiere) and Josy, a beach kiosk with terrific pan bagnat (east of the old town, facing the cape, may or may not be open in October).

You seem to be missing cuisine Niçoise, especially if one of you is inclined to good but non-gastro cuisine. Voyageur Nissart near the train station is family-run and likely to fit with most folks' idea of a cozy ambience and I also like Palmyre and Armand Crespo's bistros in the old town (more hectic than cozy).

Be prepared to spend 3 hours or more at the table for any of Mirazur, Louis XV or Chantecler. Caloric intake aside, I myself would avoid scheduling 2 sessions like this on a single day but ymmv. I wouldn't worry about the cuisine at Mirazur on account of Grand Coeur in Paris which is an inexpensive all-day operation, closer to Mauro Colagreco's secondary gigs elsewhere (a beach club in Nice, a Latin-themed bar in Shanghai) ie. these are not Mirazur 2 in scope or ambition.

Jun 28, 2015
shakti2 in France

Paris Diary - 5/26 - 6/7/15

It very frequently used to be the case in formal places in France that lady diners received menus without prices, weren't given the wine list etc etc, all anomalies when at least some women were actually hosting the meals in question (I was one).

It is slightly less bad now, or at least I stick to places where I know my guests and I will be correctly looked-after, but it still happens. Recently encountered the no-price menu again at a Côte d'Azur 2-star and can only wonder how they juggled the party of mid-east ladies with rock-sized precious gems and an assortment of male and female flunkies at the end of their table.

Lovely lovely reporting btw.

Jun 23, 2015
shakti2 in France