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shakti2's Profile

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Lyon, France - Poulet de Bresse?

Sadly Lyon isn't part of my routine but in case it's helpful, here's where I would eat this kind of thing in Paris - their 'famous' poulet in cream with vin jaune and morilles is on the carte at 30 euros :

http://www.auberge-bressane.com

about 14 hours ago
shakti2 in France
2

Lyon, France - Poulet de Bresse?

"Volaille is a word for chicken breast."

Really makes you wonder about what passes as expertise ...

But thanks Pti for shedding light on why I can buy a quite useful bone-in skin-on joint at the butcher but receive a blob of uninteresting white meat when ordering the same thing at a restaurant. And chicken with morels is definitely traditional - it says springtime in France to me, even though I didn't know about its regional origins.

about 17 hours ago
shakti2 in France
1

Paris - back to the 9th, all of September

Yes do. I went for lunch when they first opened, was bowled over, but somehow didn't follow up on my own mental note to try dinner until recently. Nice to see them thriving.

Jul 03, 2015
shakti2 in France

Paris - back to the 9th, all of September

Hi Peter, my Affranchis info was an impression formed by peering in at the window - you should definitely take a look and decide for yourself since you'll be right there. I've since looked at Dr. T's reviews and they do indeed seem like nice folks worth supporting.

Btw the boulangerie Petrin Medieval on Henri Monnier has a good levain-raised baguette, sold as 'baguette Medieval' surprise surprise. And on this one, I go by the evidence of my tastebuds, not just my eyes :)

Jul 03, 2015
shakti2 in France

Paris - back to the 9th, all of September

Evidence of my own eyes sir !

Coulisses had a curtain drawn over a dusty window (and a small for-rent sign iirc). Affranchis had a short unambitious menu posted which seems to have had a price re-set vs. the one which accompanied reports of the ownership change in March :

http://www.gillespudlowski.com/112820...

(not that I quibble over whatever small increase folks want to try on but I recall dining quite well at the old Affranchis for under 35 euros/ head before drinks, which seems to be the magic number for many of the spots on PeterCL's list)

Jul 01, 2015
shakti2 in France

14th around Montparnasse

Rue Daguerre is a neighbourhood shopping street and will be very lively on a Saturday, with shops extending onto the partly-pedestrianised street. The big fishmonger on the Denfert-Rochereau end has an annex for oysters and chilled seafood - good prices sometimes on the usually pricey Gillardeaus. For more fish, I like la Cagouille, which isn't universally loved on this board, but which gets a big vote for reliably excellent fish cookery from folks I know at the nearby Tour Montparnasse who regularly take clients. The weekend lunch crowd runs more to multi-generation families, grandma, grandpa, kids, pets.

Jul 01, 2015
shakti2 in France

Paris - back to the 9th, all of September

For narrowing down : Les Coulisses seems to be no more and les Affranchis seems to have taken a confused turn since a recent change of ownership (initial hop in prices for similar cuisine as its neighbourhood peers, then a reversal accompanied by a menu re-org).

To increase the riches : I would check out Oka on rue Tour d'Auvergne if you like less-trad French. 6 itty-bitty but beautifully-rendered courses, unusual flavour combinations which work, a young Brazilian chef and his Sri Lankan #2, lots of soul as Mangeur would put it. 2 seatings at dinner, 35 euros a head.

Jul 01, 2015
shakti2 in France

Last night in Paris. Have reservations at Bones, but having second thoughts...

Parn will decide for himself if/ how to respond, but online fora work when people take the time and trouble to contribute. If they choose what and how to contribute, I don't see anything to wonder at - in fact I usually assume that a pseudonymous poster withholds details out of consideration for dining companions who may not appreciate their shared experience being recounted to online strangers.

Jul 01, 2015
shakti2 in France
1

Last night in Paris. Have reservations at Bones, but having second thoughts...

As an aside, Mme. Mangeur, I want to mention a terrific recent lunch at Comptoir Tempero in the 13th (hat-tip to Dr. T and Parn who originally put it on my radar, I think). I suspect we have similar palates - happy with tangy and/ or herbal flavours, smaller plates, not too much protein - and I was really very happy with this meal. We had a precisely-seasoned bar ceviche, nicely-cooked magret with lightly-pickled veggies and more raw fish atop risotto-style barley. The chef has a wonderful touch with balancing acidity with lushness. And for my money at least, plenty of soul in a small but busy room with a single server and 2 young folks in the kitchen.

(not that much money was involved - these marvels were consumed for 15 euros for 2 courses ...)

Jun 30, 2015
shakti2 in France
1

Last night in Paris. Have reservations at Bones, but having second thoughts...

Well, there are bystanders who enjoy the move-able feast of Parnassien's approach though (this one at least) and it may well take the pressure off OP's decision-making to know that there are many right answers to his question, not just a single guru with a single correct answer.

I myself have loved Bones much less than others - too many misses on a single menu - and the crowd, tight space and noise in Paris' current hot weather can't be pleasant.

Jun 30, 2015
shakti2 in France
1

Last night in Paris. Have reservations at Bones, but having second thoughts...

Coretta needs a lunch-time caveat to skip the ungenerous and uninteresting 24-euro menu dejeuner in favor of the carte. At a recent meal, the former was an egg in beurre noisette followed by a mushy and flavourless lieu jaune, which my husband took (along with the majority of the visible diners in the restaurant's upstairs space). Both dishes looked and tasted beige and boring, missing some final seasoning or garnishing to snap together overly-similar flavours and textures.

I on the other hand, ate a delicious cuttlefish with tempura asparagus dotted with 2 contrasting sauces, followed by ris de veau imaginatively paired with rhubarb, both excellent, and seeming to have come from an entirely different operation than my poor husband's meal. Closer to 50 euros though including the supplement.

Gorille's short and sweet lunch menu is much less susceptible to the lottery of poor choices.

Jun 30, 2015
shakti2 in France
1

Trendy Paris grab and go lunches

Newly-opened Plisson on blvd Beaumarchais fits a lot of your brief : casual setting, eat in or takeaway, continuous hours, adjoining emporium with stylish-looking food in glass cases, nice-looking crowd (early days though) and a quick walk from the Sunday-shopping epicentre at rue des Rosiers.

Jun 28, 2015
shakti2 in France

Southern France - Input on Food Itinerary Requested

2 cents :

I am agog at the ambitiousness of your driving/ touring schedule. Agree with Jake that roads can be rather slower than expected and also add that getting in/ out and finding parking in some of your larger destinations will be a challenge (I recall from one trip that exiting from Aix took an hour).

In between Nice and Cassis, you can snack in Antibes. I recommend Veziano, a 2nd-generation baker that supplies many of the prominent restaurants on the coast (try the pissaladiere) and Josy, a beach kiosk with terrific pan bagnat (east of the old town, facing the cape, may or may not be open in October).

You seem to be missing cuisine Niçoise, especially if one of you is inclined to good but non-gastro cuisine. Voyageur Nissart near the train station is family-run and likely to fit with most folks' idea of a cozy ambience and I also like Palmyre and Armand Crespo's bistros in the old town (more hectic than cozy).

Be prepared to spend 3 hours or more at the table for any of Mirazur, Louis XV or Chantecler. Caloric intake aside, I myself would avoid scheduling 2 sessions like this on a single day but ymmv. I wouldn't worry about the cuisine at Mirazur on account of Grand Coeur in Paris which is an inexpensive all-day operation, closer to Mauro Colagreco's secondary gigs elsewhere (a beach club in Nice, a Latin-themed bar in Shanghai) ie. these are not Mirazur 2 in scope or ambition.

Jun 28, 2015
shakti2 in France

Paris Diary - 5/26 - 6/7/15

It very frequently used to be the case in formal places in France that lady diners received menus without prices, weren't given the wine list etc etc, all anomalies when at least some women were actually hosting the meals in question (I was one).

It is slightly less bad now, or at least I stick to places where I know my guests and I will be correctly looked-after, but it still happens. Recently encountered the no-price menu again at a Côte d'Azur 2-star and can only wonder how they juggled the party of mid-east ladies with rock-sized precious gems and an assortment of male and female flunkies at the end of their table.

Lovely lovely reporting btw.

Jun 23, 2015
shakti2 in France

crazy questions

'We don't know how close/ far everything is from each other'

This is what Google maps is for - go by the advised time, not the distance on a 2-dimensional map, since you don't know when routes get steeper/ flatter, and perhaps add 5 min for a bit of extra navigation enroute.

For a first night, any one of Parn's meat-oriented recs for your neighbourhood would be a good choice when simpler heartier food works best followed by a short walk back to your hotel and bed. Also you can't account for weather - if it's wet (and why not, in October ?), you won't want to trek across town just for a warm bite. If it's nice, well, take an extra turn along the champs or down to the river before turning in. I'll also throw in Savy on rue Bayard for good measure, also trad ie. meat-oriented, plus an enjoyable ballet of old-school waiters in black and white whizzing about the room.

And as always, Mangeur provides very wise advice.

Jun 23, 2015
shakti2 in France
2

Clown Bar

I've ordered from the same menu quite recently - had the white tuna with sabayon, then ris de veau, both excellent especially the unlikely-sounding first combo (a dollop of savoury sabayon atop marinated - or lightly-cured ? - tuna).

Clown Bar is one of my currents faves, the chef has a wonderful unfussy touch (I especially like the treatment of fish here, usually not specified on the menu as cooked or raw but emerging somewhere in between, maybe with intelligent use of marinades and very very light application of heat, perhaps just enough to scorch the skin on a rouget). Haven't encountered any service issues and as Onzieme notes, a diverse and watchable crowd.

Jun 21, 2015
shakti2 in France

9 days in Nice

No need to make hard decisions : Armand Crespo of Comptoir du Marche has a new-ish 3rd place Bar des Oiseaux, which is a collaboration with Barale to showcase their pasta products. As long as a person is prepared for modern bistro dishes which happen to incorporate pasta rather than Italian food, this place is terrific, very buzzy French-speaking crowd, the proprietor on hand directing operations on the occasions when I've been this past spring. All our dishes except desserts were good and the noodles with sausages ('perugiennes') seem to be a particular hit given their consistent presence on an otherwise changing menu.

Chez Palmyre also seems to be in absolutely crackling form. The 17-euro 3-course lunch is great value for high-quality execution of bistro classics (lamb shoulder, pork ribs, more perugiennes again, this time in a cocotte with veggies) plus lighter starters and desserts. Am pretty sure there's been a fair bit of intelligent tweaking of traditional recipes to deliver such a streamlined format so consistently (I've been eating here multiple times also) but the overall effect is sweetly old-school : stuffy cramped room, brisk menu scribbled on a mirror, limited and inexpensive choice of what to drink, a single waiter who seems to know half his customers by name (the local half that is). The menu changes every second Tuesday.

Jun 21, 2015
shakti2 in France

Has anyone used Le Fooding's app in the South of France?

Fooding is useful for urban destinations - I've had roaring success with their recs for Nice and Marseilles and I like that their focus is on modern bistros popular with local customers, rather than the typically conservative Riviera picks I see here and elsewhere (bouillabaisse palaces etc). But it isn't helpful if you expect to be in really small towns - a more trad guide like Michelin has broader coverage.

Jun 05, 2015
shakti2 in France

Great desserts in Hong Kong?

Try a post-dinner stroll around Tai Hang, a former neighbourhood of auto repair shops near Causeway Bay well on the road to gentrification. I can't go pass Xiao Tian Gu for trad canto desserts myself (steamed milk, tong yuen) but there are also some cool-looking places for ice cream and 'artisanal' sweets.

Seeking advice: Week long foodie trip from Japan to somewhere else.

HK and Singapore are a win as eating cities in Asia if the criteria are well-covered by traditional media and accessible for visitors relying on a modern metro network and English-speaking cabbies. They are a fail if the criteria includes access to quality local product, cost and local licensing structures which support independent establishments and a discriminating local audience for both traditional and innovative cuisine at different price levels.

My picks : Taipei, Bangkok and a special mention for Ho Chi Minh City for the visitor up for all street food all the time. For a first-time visitor, I wouldn't obsess unduly about research unless there are specific items you want to seek out. Quality is high and prices are reasonable, rather than a reflection of high rents. In Taipei, try a night market if you must, but the good stuff is in regular sit-down establishments.

KL isn't as bad as seems to be made out but the good stuff is indeed a challenge to get to without a willing local driver.

Paris - one night, meal for one, in hiking boots...

Fun question ! You can store your bag at Gare de Lyon and try the bunch of options approx. 10 min on foot around the Aligre market - try Will for modern French w. a nod to south-east Asia by way of seasoning elements, Cotte Roti or l'Ebauchoir for modern bistro (there are others, these just happen to be the ones I know). Or a bit further, les Deserteurs or Clande for modern French w. seasonal limited-choice menus.

All should fit in your budget with a glass or two of wine, Cotte Roti and l'Ebauchoir a bit cheaper. Your hiking boots will raise eyebrows amongst those folks who didn't get this memo on dining in Paris with sporty shoes (halfway down the very long comments) but I think you'll be able to bear it :

http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/1012698

Your bigger issue will be trying to conclude your meal in time. Best look for somewhere that starts serving as early as possible, 7 or 7.30 pm, and call first to confirm that they can get you out the door in time.

May 19, 2015
shakti2 in France

Paris trip report!

Terrific report, thanks !

May 15, 2015
shakti2 in France

Tips for Dining Well in Paris

Price performance is pretty dreadful though, even in comparison with other properties within the Four Seasons or Dorchester groups, all of which are likely to turn out impeccable breakfasts, similarly populated with suits talking shop plus the occasional prosperous tourist.

Get a cafe to fry you some eggs while you bide time till dinner, then award yourself a more generous wine budget. Or take yourself out to a nice lunch the next day with the 60 or 70 euros you saved from breakfast.

May 11, 2015
shakti2 in France

Report: Comptoir des Canailles

Sounds terrific, thank you. Have to say I especially love recs based on multiple visits !

May 11, 2015
shakti2 in France

Tips for Dining Well in Paris

At an establishment informal enough to dispense with reservations, I'd take my chances with good humour and a complicit smile over dressing to impress.

May 10, 2015
shakti2 in France

Tips for Dining Well in Paris

Clipboards/ velvet ropes/ door b*tches of either gender = you aren't there for the food.

May 10, 2015
shakti2 in France

Tips for Dining Well in Paris

Yes, they're doing amazing things, improvements in size and lustre every time I look.

May 10, 2015
shakti2 in France

Restaurants in Nice

I'd go straight to Cafe de Turin which has all-day brasserie service and reliably good seafood. Plenty of tourists - that's the Côte d'Azur for you - but lots of locals too.

May 10, 2015
shakti2 in France

Elkano - when to book?

No problems so far with getting my hotel in San Sebastián to ring a day or two before. I would only make arrangements further in advance if I had a bigger group intent on eating something specific (a large turbot in season for example) and then we might be talking a week or so in advance so the restaurant can do its best with coordinating its buying accordingly.

There is indeed a narrow terrace with tables, though I haven't seen it in use when I've been in May.

May 09, 2015
shakti2 in Spain/Portugal

La Cagouille, Paris 14ème -- Bad Report

He's still on the website fwiw. I've had the same excellent and consistent experience over the years, maybe once a year, as Chef June. But we do tend to stick to specific things : fried small fish (anchovies, sardines, rougets and the like), grilled razor clams, a large grilled whole fish for the table if something good is available, the mackerel with mustard sauce otherwise. Always Sunday lunch.

The one time I went off-piste was not so great - rebarbatively over-cooked and bouncy cheeks, can't quite recall if cod or monk-fish.

May 09, 2015
shakti2 in France