Although I have owned and used (at work and home) fibrox/plastic handle Forschners and Dexters.. my preference like your son is for a forged knife. It looks a lot more upscale versus a plastic handle knife. I am slowly gifting away my fibrox/plastic handle knives.

My preference for a low price point forged knife is Update International Forged line. They have the same look and feel of much more expensive German knives but at a much lower price point.

http://www.foodservicewarehouse.com/u...

You can also get a digital thermometer and test it. Maverick makes a few. The ET 732 is popular in bbq circles.

Most commercial kitchens use inexpensive aluminum like Winware
http://www.katom.com/080-ASP2.html

This Update International stainless is a little step up. I'm not sure if a lid is included.
http://www.katom.com/370-SSP3.html

Tirbo Pots were popluar in one kitchen I worked in for their speed of getting water to boil.

http://marinrestaurantsupply.com/prod...

I have experience both at home and professionally with Victorinox/Forschner and Dexters. I don't like the plastic handle 8 inch versions of either lines. The bulky handle allows minimal to no knuckle clearance of my pinch grip and my hands are about average size.

I prefer an Update International (8 or 10 inch Chef's knife) in the Forged full tang line.

http://www.foodservicewarehouse.com/u...

They have similar steel quaility as the Victorinox/Forschner and Dexters except with a POM riveted handle which looks like a much more expensive knife. As a bonus ... the bolster is minimal allowing sharpening the entire blade.

Other than the price I don't think there is much comparison between this knife and a Kiwi.

Duffy, I also used an Accusharp at work. Evetually the edge does not last as long after subsequent sharpennings.

The edge is getting shorter and needs to be reprofiled or thinned. The Accusharp cannot thin the edge.

Chad Ward describes this process as follows:
"the metal behind the edge gets progressively thicker as the knife is sharpened over time. The knife doesn’t cut as well and becomes harder and harder to sharpen. The answer is to grind the shoulders off the edge at an acute angle, i.e. add a back bevel, then reestablish the primary bevel."

The complete online tutotial is here:
http://forums.egullet.org/topic/26036...

"That's too coarse. I'd look for a 800/4000 or 1000/5000 or something like that. I have the King 800/4000, and it's good, not great. I also have Shapton Pro 1K and 5K, and those are the stones I actually use."

Seattle Lee, JIS Grits and US Grit sizes are different and can't be compared.

That $20 Norton India Course/Fine is sufficient on German quality steel knives. I used such a knife in a prep room for 6 +- hours each day and used the Norton India combo to keep the knife in shape.

Some would say that polishing steel that can't hold an edge as well as harder steel is wasteful.

A detailed review is here.
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/sho...

I'll 2nd the Norton India stones for german quality steel. I use the same course, fine, then an extra fine from razor edge systems but if I didn't have the extra fine I would use a hard/black Arkansas to finish it up.

After sharpening I have no problem shaving arm hair with a Forschner or any similar german quality steel knife.

If it wasn't recommeded please read through Chad Ward's online info and/or book.
http://forums.egullet.org/topic/26036...

Although I have moved away from a pro kitchen (at one time as a prep cook with knife work 6+- hrs a day) I used both the provided knives and my own.

To me, it didn't matter too much what I used as long as it was sharp. So the sharpness, in my opinion trumps any specific knife brand. All knives will dull especially in a pro kitchen.... so if one does not have the maintenance part of it down, then it doesn't matter too much what knife brand it is.

Dexters, Forschners are OK.. I once used an 8.5 inch forged Update International for a while which worked fine but felt a little short sometimes.. All kitchens are a little different and some have more room than others.. but for the most part room is scarce which means that the knife has the potential to get banged around by different objects or dropped ... so I would favor the less expensive brands like Dexters, Forschners, or Update Internationals instead of Gyutos.

From my experience, remote probes and high end thermometers are not often used in commercial kitchens.

I'm not sure if it meets all your criteria but in BBQ circles, Maverick Thermometers are popular.
I have an ET-73 (dual probe-remote) and it has worked fine for about 5 years now. Although the distance of the remote is sometimes spotty.

http://www.maverickhousewares.com/digital_thermometers.htm

Dual Probe, oven only, no remotes looks like model ET-83
http://www.maverickhousewares.com/et8...

Restaurant supply house pots are fine to use, either aluminum or stainless with disk bottom.

Thanks for posting. Looks like another lower cost J knife style option to to along with the KAi (AUS-8 steel) knives.

http://www.chefsresource.com/kai-4000...

I little different than most..

I form in a loaf pan but then turn over onto parchment paper.

The meatloaf then get wrapped like a tootsie roll in the paper and baked on a sheet pan.

When cooked remove the paper and slice away .. the paper keeps it's shape pretty well and the fat drains much more than if using a loaf pan.

I mentioned in another post that one of the challenges with the Victoinox Fibrox and Dexter lines are the large plastic handles. With the 8 inch Chef's knives, your fingers will bang against the cutting board when chopping with a Pinch Grip. This condition does not exist with the Victorinox Rosewood handle or 10 inch versions of either line.

At a similar price point is the Mercer Renaissance line.

http://www.knifemerchant.com/product.asp?productID=5912

or

KAI Seki- AUS8 alloy

http://www.chefsresource.com/kai-4000st-chefs-knife-8.html

At an even lower price point are Update International (German steel forged) knives where a forged 10 inch Chef's knife (made in China) can be picked up at your local Restaurant Supply for about $15 or less.

http://www.foodservicewarehouse.com/update-international/kge-09/p515630.aspx

Regardless of knife choice it's long term performance relates to it's maintenance. Pick a maintenance program. Check out Chad Ward's online info:

http://forums.egullet.org/topic/26036...

I usually use a knife for most cuts that a Mandoline can do... equal small Julienne cuts at speed is tough to duplicate with a knife, however the handheld Julienne Peelers work pretty well and can cut about the same speed (or faster) than a mandoline.

http://www.amazon.com/Kuhn-Rikon-Juli...

Agree...

I have both a Thermapen and Delta Track. If you can wait an extra 2-3 seconds (over the Thermapen) the Delta Track is a lower cost alternative to a Thermapen at 1/5th the price.
http://www.amazon.com/Deltatrak-Scientific-DeltaTRAK-Pocket-Thermometer/dp/B0071NWTY4/ref=sr_1_2?s=home-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1340737588&sr=1-2

I have model 11066 which has a cover with a magnet, so it stays on the fridge at home or in my sleeve pocket at work.
http://www.deltatrak.com/reduced-tip-...

I prefer using the Delta Track because (while working) it can fit in my Chef's coat sleeve pocket while the Thermapen is too bulky to be carried in one's pockets.

My Thermapen had to be returned for servicing twice in about 5 years which adds to the cost of ownership.

The Delta Track models are pretty rugged and designed for commercial use. My son left his out overnight in a rain storm and it still works fine.

Agree the smooth or ceramic steel may not be critical but ... some cooks (especially Prep Cooks) have knifes in their hand 2-6 hours a day cutting products. So the knife can get as much use in a day as a home kitchen knife will get in a month or more. Steeling should help the knife get one through a day's worth of work but unfortunatly most pro kitchens only have the aggressive steels that can have the potential to damage the fine edge of an Artifex

Agree on the use of the IB-8,, it will benefit from something higher grit to help polish it up (Arkansas hard, Translucent etc.), and finish with stropping... which is acceptable for my Euro steel knives ... with harder steel I'd probably still use the same process but only because that's what I already have..maybe just moving the process up the stone progression.. Fine India for repairs, Extra Fine for touch ups,,, add another to polish.

If I didn't have any stones and bought my first hard steel knife I may lean towards the water stones ... 500/1K/3K-5K seems to be the standard.

Either of those knives are solid choices.

Regarding stones ... you are going to get differing opinions on what is the best route.

Remember you are cutting cases of veggies not shaving your stubble, so a highly polished edge finish at a high grit may not be critical and probably not ideal as it may not hold up as long.

With either stone choice you will want a smooth steel to use between sharpening and if getting the waterstones you will need a stone flattener of some sort. The oil stones don't dish much like waterstones. My extra fine is going on 20 years.

I use the oil stones because that is what I learned on ... so they work for me and I don't want to deal with soaking and flattening. . The Norton IB-8 is an entry two sided stone. With most of your sharpening done on the IB-8s fine side it can benefit from another higher grit stone to polish it up some. But as you can see in the link, the IB-8 (+stropping) can produce a decent edge.

With that said Cowboyardee's waterstone link is a really good price for a waterstone, I just prefer 3 inch wide stones.

Simon, in the past I have worked in a Prep Room for a busy Corporate Cafe (2-3K meals/day).. case after case of product all day long.

Among the Prep Cooks, the tool of chioce was a 10 inch Chef's knife ... it's the F-150 of knives that is versatile to do most anything. Forschners and Dexter Russells were mostly used.

A couple of issues with the knife in the link. One it is Carbon which requires extra care compared to stainless. In a busy kitchen many times there is not much time to baby a knife. Second I believe the bolster goes all the way to the blade making the blade area near the bolster difficult to sharpen.

As an upgrade to the Forschners/Dexters are the Japanese profile knives.

Some entry level J knives include:
Tojiro DP http://www.cutleryandmore.com/tojiro-dp/chefs-knife-p115450
Fujiwara FKM http://www.chefknivestogo.com/fufkmgy24.html
Richmond Artifex http://www.chefknivestogo.com/riar24gy.html

At a lower price point are..
Kai Seki http://www.chefsresource.com/kai-4000st-chefs-knife-8.html
and Mercer Renaissance (euro steel/style) http://www.chefsresource.com/10-chefs-knife-mercer-renaissance-forged.html
---
Regarding stones ...
I have no experience with water stones but started on oil stones about 20 years ago.

I've gone from oil stones>belt sander>back to oil stones.

I have mostly Euro quality knives and one VG-10 steel J knife... a Petty which I don't use much so my kit is now as follows;

Norton India Course 8x3x1/2 $20~
Norton India Fine 8x3x1/2 $20~
Razor Edge Systems Ultra Fine 8x3x1 $40~

Followed by white stropping compound and/or swipes on a fine steel produces a decent working but arm hair shaveable edge.

I use the oil stones dry but clean/wash after each use.

The 8x3 India stones come in plastic cases that double as stone holders.

If I didn't already have the Razor Edge Ultra Fine I would probably have a 8x3x1/2 Halls Hard Arkansas. $47~

In general I follow Chad Ward's sequence of about a 20/15 relief/cutting edge.

http://forums.egullet.org/topic/26036-knife-maintenance-and-sharpening/

For a first Oil Stone the Norton IB-8 Combo at $20 is a decent affordable starting point.
Review of it is here:
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/sho...

I have Victorinox/Forschner knives and use Dexter Russell knives at work...They are both serviceable but not always ideal.

Probably to save money.. the same sized plastic handle is used on all their knives of the same plastic handle line (Fibrox line I think).

The issue is with the 8 inch Chef's knives and for those who use a Pinch Grip (which most pros I know do).

The plastic finger guard is too big and gets in the way causing ones fingers to hit the cutting board when chopping. The 10 inch Chef's has a bigger blade width at the handle and does not suffer the same issue (unless the user has very large hands).

The issue does not exist with the Victorinox/Forschner Rosewood handle version of the knife because the finger guard if any is smaller.

----
Eiron I wish you success in your endeavor.. if you wish to make steady income out of it you may want to eventually add food service clientele. At least one sharpener I met owns many knives and kitchens I believe just rent from him. He exchanges knives around once a month with his food service clients.

----

"Secondly, you must try out the knife before you use it." I have to (personally) disagree ... when using a pinch grip the handle and how it feels is less important ... as the knife kind of becomes an extension of your hand.

---
There are many opinions on which knife or knife style to buy... Chad Wards's book is a good one to start with. His online article is here: http://forums.egullet.org/topic/26036-knife-maintenance-and-sharpening/

An ideal Chef's knife for me has no finger guard and little or no bolster. This allows a more comfortable pinch grip and that bolster doesn't get in the way of stone sharpening. Most Japanese style Gyuto/Chef's knives fall in this category. Right now if I get a new knife it may in the KAI 4000ST series.
http://www.chefsresource.com/kai-4000...

I think a last point often not stated.. is that a sharpening/maintenance strategy should be considered otherwise it doesn't matter much what knife to buy.. a cheap dull knife is about as good as a expensive dull knife.

"Disc cookware can burn on the sides on a burner that is too big or over cook in the center while leaving the stuff heaped against the sides underdone on one too small."

Also depends on the heat source... more so on gas flame where a small disk bottom pan placed on a larger gas burner and the burner is placed on a high setting.. otherwise most other heat sources should be OK especially the electric coil type. The disk bottom is intended to distribute heat evenly. I imagine a thin bottom will not cook evenly but most disk bottoms should be thick enough to evely distribute heat especially with slower electric heat element.

We (at work) oven cook our rice all the time. Usually 3-6 qts dry at a time. Pilaf, Spanish, plain white all get cooked in the oven. 350 in a Convection oven for 45-60 mins, no preboil necesssary, just cold ingredients into the oven.

Butter (margarine) gets added to the Pilaf. We use Converted (Parboiled) rice..

I reduce my stock from 10-12 qts to about 1-2 qts > cool > then freeze in ice cube trays.

When I need stock.. I add one or two cups of water to each cube (in microwave) to get the water/stock ratio back.

If I'm not mistaken a Boning Knife is not intended to cut through bones but used to portion meat from bones. Fish work usually requires to remove heads and bones (steaking and filleting).

I agree with the longer blade length. I have a Vivtorinox 8 in Filet Knife and a 8 in Forschner Breaking knife and sometimes feel that is too small. A 10 inch is probably more ideal for bigger fish (15+ lbs).

A fillet knife is not ideal to cut heads off.

I prefer the Breaking Knife for bigger fish like salmon, ling cod, halibut etc. It is stiffer and stronger than a Filet Knife which makes it easy to cut heads off and cut through bones (steak and fillet).

Sorry, didn't know I was arguing and didn't intend to be. I just made a blanket statement.. and I didn't realize you clarified by stating that it does not apply to Jacques shows. Thanks... I worked today and don't have time to review all the posts.. I just check in from time to time and post occasionally.

I also have seen his shows on PBS, the "no cable" was directed at Chem and his Giada reference.

I guess I was focusing not on what the OP was asking for but why... which was to improve the OP's skill set with a new knife.. and if so the knife has little impact on skill .. I use a lowly Dexter 5 day a week for prep work (like many in the food industry).. but over time I have come to care less about what I use as long as it has a decent edge.

A knife to many in the industry is just a tool to get the job done... just like a wrench is to a mechanic.. and very few cooks get excited by specific knives or knife brands.. I know some will disagree but that's been my experience.

I want what Giada uses on her show :)

Over my head, didn't get it. I don't have cable and watch much TV except for over the air channels.

John Francis, Bacardi1.. apologies off topic ... just wanted to comment that in general most cooking shows that show equipment may not be the equipment of choice in the hosts home or professional kitchen but a required item because of advertisers.

Advertisers who provide the products want exactly the response by the OP... I want his knife, pots, pans, etc... Most commercial kitchens use much cheaper knives, pots and pans to get the job done.

Should have read 3 and comments on Thermoworks lower cost option.

Although I own a Thermapen there are lower cost slightly slower alternatives. I personally don't see a need for a Thermapen especially in a home kitchen, but everyone's got their own needs. One of the ones below is more than serviceable.

I reviewed 4 models at this link.

http://tvwbb.com/showthread.php?21690...

At least from my experience Santokus are very easy to beat regardless of veggies or meat. I don't do as much prep now as I used to. Now I prep and cook an all you can eat, 4-5 course (incls. soup) lunch buffet for 40-80 people 5 times a week. Much less prep compared to when I was a dedicated Prep Cook in a scratch kitchen. As a Prep Cook, a weeks worth of knife work was probably more than I did at home in any given year.

I any case I'm much more productive with a Chef's style knife as opposed to a Santoku (we have two of those btw). But in the end whatever one feels they can use best and enjoy is what's best for that person.

The link below is the Artifex I mentioned in another post. AEB-L (also called 13C26) steel is not common in sub $100 knives and it's quite adept at veggies ... see videos

http://www.chefknivestogo.com/riar21....

I can't think of a use for a 6 inch Chef's knife. It's flat area is very small for up and down chopping and it's too small for rock chopping.