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Paris in August?

Second Aux Merveillleux de Fred which was a delightfully (and lucky) chanced upon when we stayed in 7eme on last year.

Another find was Maison Galland on rue du Bac. Their anise poached half pear on each slice of the tart was quite memorable.

ETA: I tried to return to Maison Galland on several occasions without luck as they seemed to be closed even at hours when I felt they should be opened. One lucky time we were there, there was a line of 10 people all locals it seemed. Can't vouch for anything else than the said pear tart as this was the only thing we had, but the pear was made to seem more live than the fresh ones.

Sep 29, 2014
Kurtis in France

Clamato

I see. This helps, thanks John.

Sep 29, 2014
Kurtis in France

La Table d'Eugene

I bet the drivers take turns cooking up a storm in the trailer, and a certain Mme we seem to know is a regular.

Sep 28, 2014
Kurtis in France

Clamato

I understand they are cooking French cuisine, but it already has beautifully balanced restraint - one of the qualities of French cuisine we appreciate the most - and the plating seemingly effortless natural line to it that any more restraint and any more rigorous plating I feel the food too precious, soulless, or even cold; there used to be a French kitchen with Asian influence MS 2 star place in NYC whose food was far too manicured (beautiful on first sight but the conversation on the food doesn't go much beyond it) for my taste, and thought how important the role of balance. While I deeply appreciate Japanese restraint and rigorous principles of sushi, kaiseki, or even izakaya meals to AYC mix of okonomiyaki, I wonder sometimes how too much of this translate in other cuisine.

On my browsing, Table d'Aki, Le Kigawa, Les Enfants Rouge seem a good place for me to try Japanese chefs cooking straight French food, while Restaurant A.T. and Sola have less appeal in this regard.

Sep 28, 2014
Kurtis in France

La Table d'Eugene

Any idea where the bus driver takes his lunch break?

(thanks JT and mangeur)

Sep 27, 2014
Kurtis in France

La Table d'Eugene

Any idea how late does the Montmartro bus run on a weekday nite?

Sep 27, 2014
Kurtis in France

What do order at Denise, Jean, Le Cinq, Clamato, Ze Kitchen Gallerie?

Our recent visit here the 17 hr lamb shoulder was indeed the star; the table-side carving service for two was enough for four of me, and likely the best lamb dish of many lambs we had. We were informed this replacement is for additional 40 euros for two (and seems to require a commitment of two at least), and reasonably so as the other lamb dish on the menu of less price tag didn't look as sumptuous or enticing as this.

Thanks DCM for pointing this dish out, and perhaps on our next visit we will sneak a table next to you and say "we are with him, and are having whatever he is having."

Sep 27, 2014
Kurtis in France
1

Clamato

Thanks for this tip!

Sep 25, 2014
Kurtis in France

Clamato

Not so much a problem as misjudgement. The trend pendulum swings, sometimes globally.

Sep 25, 2014
Kurtis in France
1

Clamato

It sounded a nice option for light dinner for us, and as we had planned for a large lunch that day and wasn't sure if we would be in mood for a dinner out, we kept this no resy place as an option which we ended up taking.

The place didn't reflect our ever-evolving ideas of dining out in Paris on this trip. It seemed international, vibe quite Williamsburg - a connection I make as this is what I am familiar with. We felt this could have been an experience in number of cities not necessarily limited to Paris.

Sep 25, 2014
Kurtis in France
2

Clamato

You've pulled all the right words to yet again rearrange my life : )

Sep 25, 2014
Kurtis in France

The Table d'hote at Comte Senard

We were here recently and had a very nice time. Probably because there were only three parties of two and that we arrived bit early, we were given a nice private walkaround of the domain including the cellar, and discussion of their unique terroir amongst their lovely vines.

We opted for 6 wine (not the 6 gran crus) tasting and we were given an extra gran crus white to go with the cheese plate. It was nice to have a map that located the plot of land where it came from, from regional ones to the GC ones. It was a great and unique opportunity compare the varieties of a single domain. Food was basic (coq au vin -great sauce, quite dried up chicken - and potato gratin) w/ 3 cheeses. Service was accomodating, friendly, and casual.

This is our first time in this sort of setting tho we have had more than handful of wine tasting of single domain w/ meals in restaurant settings. For us it was a nice introduction to Burgundy, and the goal of comparative tasting is clearly accomplished. However, for me who takes equal and if not more importance to the meal as wine, I think a separate lunch followed by visits to different domains/caves for tasting is more fitting, as one can do similar tasting even at this place without the food in the room next door.

Sep 24, 2014
Kurtis in France

Clamato

It's on our longlist, but thank you for bumping it into a shortlist.

Still, I feel there are much to be explored, and our visits too infrequent and short, to try Japanese, Korean, or Brazilian chefs' takes in Paris. Not to say that they are not worthy by any measures, but as we are able to experience some degree of this in the major cities of the US, my experiences hasn't been uniformly positive as what constitutes exotic and unique to the locals doesn't necessarily reflect that of mine. And this is certainly not from lack of trying.

But the only thing that is Japanese at Talbe d'Aki is the name it seems. And if you say so mangeur, if you say so...

Sep 24, 2014
Kurtis in France

Clamato

MRS, we are a long-time resident of NYC tho we have moved to Baltimore recently. You raise a good question as I think a bit of knowledge of the commenter does render perspective to the advise.

Sep 24, 2014
Kurtis in France

La Table d'Eugene

It's her wicked wicked vocabulary and I remain under her spell still...

Sep 23, 2014
Kurtis in France
1

La Table d'Eugene

After sending me on a criss-crossing, up the falais and down the sybaritic Luberon valley, oh do I know how wicked she is!

Sep 23, 2014
Kurtis in France
1

La Table d'Eugene

Hot debate as to how to walk off a meal? Only on CH France...

Sep 23, 2014
Kurtis in France

Clamato

We were here on our recent visit to Paris and had a good meal of raw palourde (from St. Michel-excellent), cheviche, razor clams (this seems to be their signature dish), and accrabes. The service was very accommodating and friendly. But while this may be an interesting development and a find for the locals, as a relatively infrequent visitor I didn't find it worth the visit which I questioned in planning. The dishes may represent French interpretations and touches, but I've had many outstanding ceviches and razor clam preparations in different countries, and Clamato's do not present a unique version or even interesting interpretation to me. It was a good meal, but not a place that we would look forward to returning, and for this reason I wouldn't recommend this place to another visitor; it seems a convivial and a hip place with good food.

Sep 23, 2014
Kurtis in France
1

La Table d'Eugene

After the dinner here, my eyes would be softened for all lights of Paris.

Sep 23, 2014
Kurtis in France

La Table d'Eugene

Coming back from Paris has never been so remorseful. Thanks a lot Parigi : )

Sep 23, 2014
Kurtis in France

La Table d'Eugene

It's a real food: honest, intelligent, and unpretentious. It may seem bit posh yes but without trying to IMO. At least for the weekend lunches, one would feel comfortable with a jean and a T-shirt and feel completely pampered; two guys who appear to be very familiar to the Mme sat across the room with one wearing a shorts and flipflops. I am sure the president won't mind as the Mme seemed very happy to see them : )

Sep 23, 2014
Kurtis in France

La Table d'Eugene

"ETA: if you want an after-dinner joy ride, return to Jules Joffren, catch the tiny Montmartro bus up to Sacre Cour, look around, take the Funicular down to the flats, walk south to Anvers, then taxi or metro home. In our case, we walk west along tacky but lively blvds Rochechouart and Clichy to Rue d'Amsterdam where we catch the #95 home."

mangeur, thanks for this perfect post-Eugene "ramble."

Sep 23, 2014
Kurtis in France

La Table d'Eugene

If this is a neighborhood gem, what a gem it is; it outshines many of the brightest and loudest gems of Paris and France in many ways. We had a lovely and memorable wknd lunch here recently, with Mme who took time to explain and interact with us over her proud food (The monk fish and the pigeon dish was exceptional, and the best preparation we've had in each of their own protein category.) Her wine pairing is wonderful at a very reasonable price. Her room is a perfect balance of being special yet completely comfortable. It will be hard not to return here on each trip to Paris. Here's several pics to share.

Thanks for putting this on our map.

Sep 23, 2014
Kurtis in France

Angéla is alive and hopping at 81 rue de Turbigo

As you have crossed continents and oceans, I knew you would. I was just making a general comment about kimchi which is, at the least of its importance, includes my last name : )

Sep 02, 2014
Kurtis in France

Angéla is alive and hopping at 81 rue de Turbigo

lagatta, I am turning my bike around and heading north!
(mangeur, please keep trying. I will get there some day :)

Sep 01, 2014
Kurtis in France

Angéla is alive and hopping at 81 rue de Turbigo

If you are making it, I am crossing state lines...

Sep 01, 2014
Kurtis in France
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Dans les landes

Reads very delicious. Our visit to the old Dans les Landes last year was a big winner, and this seems an ambitious project. Thanks for this report.

Sep 01, 2014
Kurtis in France

Angéla is alive and hopping at 81 rue de Turbigo

I would agree Rio, but with different reasons.

As there are personal, seasonal, degrees of aging (from minutes to more than 3 years) as well as regional (more than 200 varieties survive currently) differences in kimchi, it makes a interesting pursuit. And while restaurants are where many are readily available, it's the invitations to individual homes where one can taste the good stuff; many friendships and marriages are made and broken is how the legend goes ;)

Would I cross town on an invitation to a friend whose wife is from Julla province known to make soul-comforting kimchi with raw oysters? You bet.

Sep 01, 2014
Kurtis in France
1

Angéla is alive and hopping at 81 rue de Turbigo

My take on John's comment is that many of these "so-what, eat-on-the-street, don't-think- about-it-twice food items" more current reinventions have taken the paths of absurd hype and re-reinventions beyond recognition. $500+ sushi meal, $100+ ramen, and $20+ pastrami sandwich or banh mi has their seekers, but more often as curiosity than genuine interest (and sometimes geared to satisfy just this), and more often for the travelers than the locals.

The other end of this issue when good original food is poorly reinvented in another country. Take Galbi/bulgogi in Korea. Generally, a modest portion of this is served at the beginning of a meal, with various cuts you order, followed by a bowl of cold buckwheat noodle soup, or fermented bean soup. But as expected, AYCE places flourish in the US, and even a respectable food critic votes it the "best galbi in town" even though the quality of meat always suffers under these circumstances.

"Once every hundred years Jesus of Nazareth meets Jesus of the Christian in a garden among the hills of Lebanon. And they talk long; and each time Jesus of Nazareth goes away saying to Jesus of the Christian, "My friend, I don't think I recognize who you are""

-Kahlil Gibran

Sep 01, 2014
Kurtis in France

Angéla is alive and hopping at 81 rue de Turbigo

I agree here, the pork liver pate in the classic banh mi thit nguo, aka "special combo" really does make the sandwich. I've also had some poorly handled ones while in VN but luckily not prior to a flight...

"I've read (on this board I think) that the pate spread is omitted in France because it would be considered too weird in combination with the meat."

Hmm, does Angela's version omit the pate? It's this combination that make it a classic.

Sep 01, 2014
Kurtis in France