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Hoping for some advice for Sunday lunch in Rome

On Sundays we usually head to Testaccio. Either Perilli or Flavio Velavevodetto. Both, though, would require a taxi ride from your hotel.

Not too far away is Trattoria Cadorna. It's about a 10 or 15 minute walk from your hotel. It's a very old fashioned place, in a residential neighborhood, so lots of locals. If you go, you could order the antipasto della casa, which is a multi plate affair, and call that lunch. Here are some photos of it:

http://www.elizabethminchilliinrome.c...

Make sure you reserve beforehand for any of these places, since they tend to book up on Sundays.

www.ElizabethMinchilliInRome.com

Jan 30, 2015
minchilli in Italy

Florence restaurant recommendations

The best thing to do would to search for past threads on this topic. Then, once you've had a look, come back to us with more concrete questions or to comment on your choices.

In the meantime, in addition to restaurants, make sure you hit some of the tripe carts around town. This is true Florentine street food and you can enjoy it as a quick lunch or a mid morning snack (my favorite).

Here is my list of favorite places, in the center, with some photographs to let you know what it's like:
http://www.elizabethminchilliinrome.c...

www.ElizabethMinchilliInRome.com

Jan 29, 2015
minchilli in Italy

Milan: A tale of two restaurants

That's too bad about Aimo e Nadia. I remember my meal there a few years ago as being made memorable as much by the two of them, as by the food. I have to say I've never liked the dining room. It's just too stiff and formal, with that horrible art on the walls.

www.ElizabethMinchilliInRome.com

Jan 29, 2015
minchilli in Italy

Recent experiences in Bari, Matera, Lecce, Monopoli?

If you're only in Bari for one night, it might be nice to have a walk in Bari Vecchia, which is where Pescatore is located. And if it's late May, you might be able to sit outside, which is nice.

In Gallipoli I had a great lunch recently at Le Puritate. Not a shack, but great seafood.

If you end up in Ostuni, we loved Osteria del Tempo Perso.

www.ElizabethMinchilliInRome.com

Jan 23, 2015
minchilli in Italy
1

TRATTORIA AL GATTO NERO, BURANO, VENICE

Thanks for the report and the photos! I love Gatto Nero, but haven't been there for a couple of years so good to know it's still delicious.

www.ElizabethMInchilliInRome.com

Jan 20, 2015
minchilli in Italy

Tips for eating alone in Italy?

I eat alone all the time!I usually bring something to read just in case I feel like it. But it's never a problem. You shouldn't ever feel you have to be doing anything. Do whatever you feel most comfortable with.

Sometimes though, when reserving, I do reserve for two. I do this with the full knowledge that I'm probably going to order enough food for two anyway (I'm usually doing research) so I don't feel that bad. Also, most tables are for two people anyway.

www.ElizabethMinchilliInRome.com

Jan 19, 2015
minchilli in Italy

Positano: Zass or La Sponda

Yes, absolutely you have to book. The terrace is tiny at Le Sireneuse is teeny tiny.

Jan 16, 2015
minchilli in Italy

[Venice] Anice Stellato or Alle Testiere for Saturday dinner in January?

First of all, have you checked to make sure either are open? Testiere was closed last week, I'm not sure it is open yet.

Of the two, I would choose Anice Stellato anyway. I like both the atmosphere and food better. Testiere has two seatings at dinner, which I find kind of annoying.

www.ElizabethMinchilliInRome.com

Jan 15, 2015
minchilli in Italy

Positano: Zass or La Sponda

Both places are quite different, in terms of location and ambiance. If I had to pick one place for dinner, I think I might pick La Sponda, because the view of Positano at night is so lovely. Zass is gorgeous too, but you're looking out at the sea (and so no twinkly romantic lights of town).

Especially at La Sponda you should reserve as far in advance as possible for a table at the edge of the terrace.

I would definitely recommend a sunset drink at San Pietro, though.

www.ElizabethMinchilliInRome.com

Jan 14, 2015
minchilli in Italy

Another article on Italy's small food-makers - "Export or die"

Well said, Maureen! So often when I go out of my way to try and promote a small scale producer - weather it is food, ceramics, or a shoe maker - I am met with mistrust, misunderstanding or, believe it or not, outright hostility.

To give a recent example: I was invited to Sardegna, to a food fair that was organized to promote Sardinian foods. As I visited the stands, tasting their products, about half of the participants refused to either tell me anything about their the background of their product or just outright refused to talk to me. Remember, I was wearing a pass that said PRESS, and I was brought there specifically to interview them about their cheese, sausage, jams, etc. When I mentioned this to the organizer she just sort of shrugged and said yes, it's a problem.

Another time, while working on a book on Deruta, a small town which produces ceramics, I approached the local museum to arrange to photograph some of their work so that the ceramics of the current artisans could be put in historic context. I explained that the book would be a full color, professionally printed book with world wide distribution that would promote their town and their crafts, which were so obviously in danger of dying out. Rather than say thank you, how can we help you, they responded with an estimate of 1000 Euros per object to be photographed.

But I also agree with Allende, in that little can be done with for the new generation (who may be more open to expanding their horizons)until genuine reform is enacted.

www.ElizabethMinchilliInRome.com

Fettuccini alla papalina in Rome

I'm loving this thread! Mostly because I love the kind of dish, heavy with cream, that Italians started to develop in the 50's (or according to Maureen, a bit earlier?) It totally reminds me of the type of food I would order, growing up in the sixties, in a midwest country club. In other words, something made 'fancy' and rich purely by the use of certain extravagant ingredients, like cream and butter.

Although I've never seen Fettucine alla Papalina in a Roman restaurant, I have had something similar at Paoli in Florence:
Taglierini al Paoli. Straight out of the 1950’s - when Paoli was at its high point, the dish was full of ham, peas and pools of cream. Topped with a mountain of freshly shaved truffles. Even though we aren’t supposed to like this kind of country club version of Italian food, can I tell you it tasted fantastic?

www.ElizabethMinchlliInRome.com

Jan 02, 2015
minchilli in Italy
1

shopping for liqueurs in Rome

There are a couple of places near the Opera House:
Enoteca Chirra
Via Torino 132
06 485659
Open until 2am every night, closed Sundays.
This is half coffee bar/ half liquor shop. They have a great selection of liqueurs.

Angelini Enoteca
Via del Viminale 62
06 4881028
Open every day, except Sundays
Hours…whenever Enrico feels like it. Enrico usually shows up by early afternoon. Often closed before noon This is a very whacky shop, with some very strange things on the shelf. Lots of amari.

www.ElizabethMinchilliInRome.com

Jan 01, 2015
minchilli in Italy

Late Dinner near Rome Opera

Urbana 47 might be able to do dinner that late. It's on Via Urbana and not that far away.

www.ElizabethMinchilliInRome.com

Dec 19, 2014
minchilli in Italy

Wedding Reception Venue for 6

The newish restaurant Massimo Riccioli in the Majestic hotel might be a good choice. It's excellent food, definitely on the fancy side of things. The dining room is gorgeous, and lighting good, so there's that for your photographs. When you make the reservations, you might want to make sure your one picky eater will be accomodated. But they should be able to make sure everyone is happy.

Here is the link to the restaurant:
http://www.hotelmajestic.com/read-new...
But it doesn't have much info.

Here is the link to a review I wrote up:
http://www.elizabethminchilliinrome.c...

Which also has some photos of the dining room.

Hope this helps!

www.ElizabethMinchilliInRome.com

Dec 18, 2014
minchilli in Italy
1

Charcuterie in Rome

To add to Vinoroma's list:

There is a new place that just opened, Proloco Pincio, just off Piazza Fiume. It's a bit easier to get to than Proloco DOL, and they carry all of his cured meats.

If you feel like shopping, and taking products home with you, then the Norcineria in Campo dei Fiori is worth a visit.

www.ElizabethMinchilliInRome.com

Dec 15, 2014
minchilli in Italy

Sicily in January?

Yes, Sicily will be delightfully and wonderfully off season. All of the sites will definitely be open. You will probably find, however, that many of the restaurants usually take a couple of weeks off to close during the month (this is true all over Italy, not just in Sicily).

You might find rain, but you won't find hoards of tourists anywhere.

Here are my memories of one winter Sicily vacation, ages ago:
http://www.elizabethminchilliinrome.c...

www.ElizabethMinchilliInRome.com

Dec 09, 2014
minchilli in Italy
1

Eating my way through Testaccio, Rome: recommendations wanted

Here's my 2 cents (although you probably already have it, but don't think it's doyenne worthy...)

Checchino: This place is rightly loved by Maureen, since it does what it does superbly. What it has going for it is probably the best wine list in Testacccio. What I don't like? It's just weirdly stiff and very formal. Not what I'm looking for in Testaccio.

Velavevodetto: True: it went through a bad phase. Flavio opened a new place in Prati, where he reigns, and sort of let things slip here in terms of both service and quality. But I've also heard it's on the mend.

Felice: never my favorite back in the day, and now less so since it's do-over into a sleak and overpriced bistrot type atmosphere.

Perilli: My personal favorite in Testaccio. This is truly old school, family run and still making the classics, very very well. My favorite Carbonara in Rome.

Oio: I haven't been for ages and ages.

The rest: Haven't been recently enough to comments.

www.ElizabethMinchilliInRome.com

Dec 09, 2014
minchilli in Italy
1

Rome Restaurants

All of these restaurants are typical of the kind that are recommended by concierges at hotels. They are centrally located and give a percentage back to the concierge for each person he sends. Sorry!

This is pretty much true for most hotels in Italy. Generally, the better restaurants refuse to work within this system because they don't have to.

www.ElizabethMinchilliInRome.com

Dec 09, 2014
minchilli in Italy
1

Critique/revise my rough Italy itinerary (Rome/Florence/Venice)

You've done a lot of research!

But: Enoteca Pinchiorri for New Years? It's outrageously over priced under the best of circumstances, but for New Years it must be ridiculous.

Rome: yes to everything except Nerone. It's ok (and I know Maureen loves it, and I go too) but unless you'll be in that neighborhood not worth the trip.

Florence: Sostanza for sure. I'm not a Cibreo fan, although others are. I love Ruggero, All'Antico Ristoro di Cambi and Fagioli. Zeb is fun for lunch, as is Belledonne.

Venice: Your choices are good, but I don't know what will be open. I love Il Covo, which is always great. Also, the new place just down the street, Covino is fun and casual for lunch.

www.ElizabethMinchilliInRome.com

Dec 04, 2014
minchilli in Italy

Eatily

What time of year are you planning this trip? That will definitely effect which region you should visit. Especially if you are thinking of the Amalfi coast.

www.ElizabethMinchilliinrome.com

Dec 03, 2014
minchilli in Italy

Which pasta for which Roman sauce?

You've probably opened up a can of worms...but I'll throw my 2 cents in first. As always, I bow to Maureen on all matters involving pasta and/or sauce, since she literally wrote the book on it. Two books, actually.

Cacio e Pepe: yes, Tonnarelli is more traditional, but some trattoria (and some people) prefer rigatoni.

Amatriciana: Always bucatini. Although, that said, it is a complete mess to eat (those fat noodles whip all over the place) so some people (this person) sacriliciously order rigatoni or spaghetti. (the horror, I know)

Arrabbiata : yes, penne.

Carbonara: Again, there are several camps. A lot of people go the spaghetti route, and that seems to be the choice of many of the newer generation of chefs. But some old school trattoria (Perilli for instance) stand by their rigatoni.

Pasta al burro (and the version with anchovies): this tends to be fettucine.

Vongole: Spaghetti, always.

I wouldn't get too worked up about it though. As with everything in Italy, there are a LOT of rules. All the more to be broken.

www.ElizabethMInchilliInRome.com

Nov 28, 2014
minchilli in Italy
1

Monti trattoria in April for solo traveler?

As Vinoroma said, Pugliamonti exists no longer. Non c'e Tripa pe gatti and Mucca Biricchina are to be avoided. We used to go to Taverna Urbana all the time, but haven't been there for at least 10 years. I'm not sure if the same family runs it anymore.

Other places that ARE great on Via Urbana include:
Grezzo: raw, vegan, chocolate. Amazing stuff.
Aromaticus: Urban gardening/ bistrot.
Tricolore: gourmet panini.
Zia Rosetta: gourmet panini

The Illy bar (which I think has a new name, in front of the Ivanhoe hotel) is good for coffee. They have a nice terrace, as well as newly done up interior room.

There is also a very good Alimentari and Bakery, both across the street, more or less, from Tricolore.

www.ElizabethMinchilliInRome.com

Nov 28, 2014
minchilli in Italy

Monti trattoria in April for solo traveler?

There are lots of places where you'll feel welcome in Monti. Taverna dei Fori Imperiali is run by a very nice family, who all speak English perfectly. If you do think you want to go there, it's best to reserve, at least for your first evening, since they tend to get booked up.

Another newcomer to the neighborhood is Broccoletti. Also run by a local Monticiana it's on Via Urbana. Again, since it's quite small, best to reserve. Here are some photos of meal I had there this summer:
http://www.elizabethminchilliinrome.c...

L'Asino d'oro is great, but can feel kind of cold. I think you were maybe looking for something a bit cozier? With owners who come out and chat?

Urbana 47 is great, very comfy and cozy, but as others have noted, not your typical trattoria

If you feel like a pizza (and you might) Alle Carette on Via della Madonna dei Monti is the local choice.

Hope this helps!

www.ElizabethMinchilliInRome.com

Nov 27, 2014
minchilli in Italy

What do you do with leftover seafood ?

It's very easy to make pasta sauce out of leftover seafood. Pour some olive oil in a pan, add some chopped garlic. If you'd like a few chopped cherry tomatoes. Then add the seafood, stir and a splash of wine.

In the meantime boil your pasta, drain (reserving a bit of the pasta cooking water). Put the drained pasta back in to the pan with the seafood, stir, adding a bit of the pasta cooking water to emulsify it. Top with chopped parsley.

www.ElizabethMinchilliInRome.com

Nov 23, 2014
minchilli in Home Cooking

Can soup with cabbage be frozen?

Yes, absolutely! I do it all the time. Does the soup also have potatoes in it? Because those will tend to get a bit mealy. But cabbage holds up great.

www.ElizabethMinchilliInRome.com

Nov 23, 2014
minchilli in Home Cooking

Is Wild Rice Sold in UK or Europe?

Although you can sometimes find wild rice in Europe, it's very expensive! And not always the best quality. So yes, it makes a great gift for friends in Europe. I always almost ask for a pack of it when friends are headed my way. Maple syrup too.

www.ElizabethMinchilliInRome.com

Nov 23, 2014
minchilli in U.K./Ireland

day of the week in Rome?

I've done a lot of research on the day thing over the last years, and what I've found is that there are a lot of different lists out there, with no real specific reasoning (beyond fish on Friday) behind them.

These days restaurants rarely hold true to even gnocchi on Thursday, offering it several days a week. And I certainly know of no home cook who bothers with this.

The only thing that is still somewhat common is that the few remaining old fashioned alimentari still offer precooked bacala' on Fridays. They often offer pre-soaked chickpeas as well on that day.

www.ElizabethMinchilliInRome.com

Nov 20, 2014
minchilli in Italy

Rome recommendations, especially near Colosseum and Vatican

Thanks so much for checking back in, it's always so helpful!

I'dl love to hear more details about your dinner at La Pergola.

www.ElizabethMinchilliInRome.com

Nov 17, 2014
minchilli in Italy

Thanksgiving dinner in Rome

The American Academy Thanksgiving dinner is only open to the Academy Community and their friends and family as well as Friends of the Academy at the Sponsoring Friend level.

www.ElizabethMinchilliInRome.com

Nov 14, 2014
minchilli in Italy
1

Honeymoon location help

I don't think I'm alone is considering Forte dei Marmi to be a great place if you are with your family, especially young children. The flat landscape and wide beaches makes for a pretty stress free vacation.

But when I think of a honeymoon vacation I have in mind something much different. More dramatic landscape, romantic settings and definitely not being around lots of families. Even if it won't be full family onslaught in May, it frequented at that time of year by older folks (nothing against them) who are retired. Again, not a honeymoon vibe.

Nov 13, 2014
minchilli in Italy