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Florence & Rome in September

His list is spot on, expect for a few stragglers.
Antica Pesa is very much a movie star kind of spot these days.
And sadly, Camerino is now closed.
But all the rest are some of my favorites.

www.ElizabethMinchilliInRome

about 11 hours ago
minchilli in Italy

(long) Florence Trip Report

Jumping in a bit late to the wine discussion here. I agree with Allende and with Jen. And I'll even agree with Collioure, since I too have direct experience with Wine Enthusiast tasting methods.

All that said, I would urge you, if you do happen to see what you call a 'knock out wine' in one of these humble trattoria setting to not order it. It is most likely there to appeal to tourists and will almost certainly have been sitting around for years, suffering through torrid summers and cold winters on some forgotten shelf. It will, 90% of the time, be undrinkable when uncorked. And, if you end up sending the wine back (as you should) it is a heavy financial burden for the trattoria to bear.

I realize that this is a hard concept to wrap your head around. That if the wine is there, and for sale, you should expect it to be drinkable. It's just not the case.

www.ElizabethMinchilliInRome.com

about 11 hours ago
minchilli in Italy

(long) Florence Trip Report

Thanks for taking the time to check back in! What a detailed report.

Sounds like you did very well. Yes, Santa Trinita is a great gelato spot. Did you get a chance to try Carapina, also one of the best?

Bevitore is definitely in the restaurant category. It sounds like the rabbit pasta you ordered was 'in salmi' which is a sauce made out of the the rabbit and livers. The lemon would have been a piece of lemon peel which is cooked with the rabbit and liver while it stews. So it wouldn't have added the accidity that you may have been expecting. And for the amount you ate - 2 primi, 2 secondi and a bottle of good wine, 95 Euros sounds about right to me.

Again, many thanks for reporting back in!

www.ElizabethMinchilliInRome.com

Sep 17, 2014
minchilli in Italy

Florence-- your thoughts on our list...

For gelato you're missing some of the best: Carapina and Carabe.

Sandwich: Also missing one of the best, 'Ino, as well as the various tripe stands around town which are my favorite!I also love Semel.

Lunch: Good choices all.
Dinner: Also good choices.

You've certainly done your research!!

www.ElizabethMinchilliInRome.com

Sep 16, 2014
minchilli in Italy

Lookign for quick lunch place between Roman Forum and Piazza Barberini

I would suggest you just hop in a cab. If you are paying the extra for tours (which of course I recommend!) then the little extra for a taxi to eliminate the rush is a good idea.

Right in Piazza Barberini there is a new place that was opened by the folks at Eataly. It's burgers and other 'fast food' but done Eataly style, which means they are very good. You can read more about it here in detail and see some photos:
http://www.gillianslists.com/2013/12/...

www.ElizabethMinchilliInRome.com

Sep 15, 2014
minchilli in Italy

relatively inexpensive agriturismo with great food? (anywhere in Italy)

I visited a truly magical place in Basilicata some years ago: Agruturismo Acaccia. We actually filmed a segment for Gourmet's Diary of a Foodie there. Angela, the owner is an incredible cook and the food was outstanding.

I've heard since then that it's still as good.

Here is the post about it:
http://www.elizabethminchilliinrome.c...

Which includes the video we shot.

www.ElizabethMinchilliInRome.com

Sep 12, 2014
minchilli in Italy

One Night in Rome - Within Walking Distance of Pantheon - Help Wanted

I'm a fan of Costanza, and love their antipasto of focaccia, mascarpone and liver pate'. But your choice of Pierluigi might be a better choice for you, since you are also looking for beautiful setting. It's not cheap, but is gorgeous. Then afterwards you could stroll around and have an after dinner drink in Piazza Farnese (Campo is maybe too lively!). Before dinner drink at the Minerva rooftop would work.

As a dinner alternative for Saturday night I love Armando. More low key than Pierluigi, and good location.

I'm not a huge fan of Cul de Sac, if only because it's so uncomfortable.

Sunday lunch might be fun to do in Testaccio. Either Perilli or Flavio.

www.ElizabethMinchilliInRome.com

Sep 11, 2014
minchilli in Italy

Dinner-Moderately priced near Borghese Gallery

Osteria Via Mantova is a great place. We went there recently and had fantastic fish. But they have a bit of everything, and is an easy walk from where you'll be staying.

www.ElizabethMinchilliInRome.com

Sep 09, 2014
minchilli in Italy

Venice/Bologna- trip report

Thanks for reporting back in, it's always helpful to get these types of reports.

I can see how you had a mediocre time in Venice. You seem to have hit a lot of touristy spots, of which there are many (in fact the majority). But there are a lot of great places at about every price point, if you make the effort to search them out and do a bit of research ahead of time. Many are discussed on this board.

You also seem to have missed a lot of the best places in Bologna, and I'm a bit confused about your including Hosteria Giusti in your discussion of Bologna, since it's in Modena.

www.ElizabethMinchilliInRome.com

www.ElizabethMinchilliInRome.com

Sep 09, 2014
minchilli in Italy

Gelato Rome? Frigidarium? Also: "Strange/new" foods....

The reason that no one mentions Frigidarium here is because it's a very commercial gelateria that uses industrial pre-made mixes. It's located near Campo de' Fiori and is much loved by tourists and junior year abroad students because its cheap and has huge portions.

There are lots of other, much better, artisinal gelaterie in Rome. In that same neighborhood there is Carapina, Gelateria del Teatro, Pica, and Vice.

Regional specialties? That's a pretty vague question to answer here. I think you should probably do a bit of research on Roman cuisine first, and then come back with specific questions. But if your husband is not adventurous I'm sure he'll be fine with pasta and pizza.

www.ElizabethMinchilliInRome.com

Sep 04, 2014
minchilli in Italy

Rome reservation check

First of all, happy birthday!

I think you've made excellent choices. You've managed to pick restaurants with great food, all near your hotel and all quite different from one another.

I love Pierluigi, and think it's the perfect spot for a b-day celebration. One thing to keep in mind, though, is the price. The only thing I don't like about Pierluigi, is that if you don't know what you are ordering, the dishes can add up and get a bit out of control price wise. This tends to happen with the seafood antipasti and with the fish. So if the waiter says "would you like a little seafood antipasti' ask him to be more specific and make sure you get the price for each item. That said, it's all very good!

Some of my favorite dishes there include: sopressata of octopus; spaghetti alle vongole; scampi risotto;

For photos of this dishes you can see my blog post on it:
http://www.elizabethminchilliinrome.c...

Have a great time!

www.ElizabethMinchilliInRome.com

Sep 04, 2014
minchilli in Italy

Sicily

In Ragusa, there is Il Duomo, one of the most famous restaurants not only in Sicily, but in Italy. High end, but will certainly be memorable. Make sure you reserve.

I'd suggest that for Palermo,which gets talked about often, you do a search on this board in the upper right hand corner.

www.ElizabethMinchilliInRome.com

Sep 02, 2014
minchilli in Italy

Solo Rome/tips and recos

I eat alone all the time in Italy, including Rome, and never feel uncomfortable. But there is no bar service in most restaurants in Italy. But I would call ahead and reserve, especially since the weather will still be so nice, and you'll want to make sure you get a table outside if at all possible.

For specifics, there are lots of recommendations on this board if you do a search.

www.ElizabethMinchilliInRome.com

Sep 02, 2014
minchilli in Italy

Porchetta in Rome

Yes, Er Buchetto is still open. But I haven't been to it in a while.

Bonci Panificio often has porchetta from what many (myself included) consider to be the best porchetta in Italy: Bernabei. He is located south of Rome and has devised a great way to cook the porchetta, involving slow cooking in a steam oven, then high heat, that results in deeply moist and flavorful meat and crispy skin.

Here is my post so you can see the photos:
http://www.elizabethminchilliinrome.c...

It's well worth the trip from Rome, or else give the Panificio Bonci a call to see if they have it.

www.ElizabethMinchilliInRome.com

Aug 31, 2014
minchilli in Italy

Porchetta in Rome

I just want to go on the record that I at the porchetta at the Oxford Symposium and wasn't grossed out. It wasn't traditional, but it was delicious!

www.ElizabethMinchilliInRome.com

Aug 31, 2014
minchilli in Italy

Rome/Umbria/Florence Food Itinerary. Minchilli, Parla, Kalb, Fant: How Did I Do?

Wow, I had't read this either. Thanks so much Jen for pointing it out. I was always so scared to mention any restaurant that I'd reviewed on my blog or app.

www.ElizabethMinchilliInRome.com

Aug 31, 2014
minchilli in Italy

Rome/Umbria/Florence Food Itinerary. Minchilli, Parla, Kalb, Fant: How Did I Do?

I'd try to make a reservation if I were you. Maybe it's just at lunch that they don't take reservations. It's worth a try!

www.ElizabethMinchilliInRome.com

Aug 31, 2014
minchilli in Italy

Porchetta in Rome

Panificio Bonci (not Pizzarium) often has porchetta made by Bernabei, which is (I think) one of the best I've ever had.

www.ElizabethMinchilliInRome.com

Aug 28, 2014
minchilli in Italy

Acquolina Hosteria

Once again, typing before my second cup of coffee. ;)

Aug 23, 2014
minchilli in Italy

Upscale Lunch in Roma

For a view and fine dining I'd suggest La Terrazza at the Eden.

Another option is Massimo Riccioli at The Majestic. He's a great chef, and the dining room is lovely.

www.ElizabethMinchilliInRome.com

Aug 23, 2014
minchilli in Italy

Acquolina Hosteria

Yes, very much worth the trip. Giulio Tremonti, the chef, is very talented and it's a great place for fish.
Hard to say how long it will take to get there, since it will depend on traffic. About 15 minutes tops.

www.ElizabethMinchilliInRome.com

Aug 21, 2014
minchilli in Italy

Best pastry and gelato shops in Rome and Naples

This is kind of a big and rather vague question to answer here. The response would be very long....
I'm pretty sure the gelato part has been brought up in the past on this board, if you do a search for it.

Quickly, off the top of my head, in Rome for pastry:
Regoli
Dagnino
Pasticerria Sicilia Svizzera
De Bellis
Cristallo di Zucchero

Gelato:
Fatamorgana
Claudio Torce
Gelateria del Teatro
Gelateria Pica
Come il Latte
Carapina
Neve di Latte
Otoleg

www.ElizabethMinchilliIn

Aug 21, 2014
minchilli in Italy

Anniversary dinner in Rome late August

Antico Arco is open. That's my definition of a special occasion kind of place.

www.ElizabethMinchilliInRome.com

Aug 21, 2014
minchilli in Italy

Leaving for Rome Tonight

I was going to suggest Pierluigi, but see you've already found it!
This time of year is hard in Rome, especially for fish.

I've just checked Tavole Romane's listing of what;s open and what's not, and here;s what I came up with for fish:

Aquolina should be open. Very good chef, excellent fish.
Antico Arco should have some fish
All'Oro also should have fish.
La Gensola, in Trastevere is all fish and open all month.

Hope this helps, and have a great trip!

www.ElizabethMinchilliInRome.com

Aug 21, 2014
minchilli in Italy

Rome/Umbria/Florence Food Itinerary. Minchilli, Parla, Kalb, Fant: How Did I Do?

You've certainly done your homework!
Sorry, but you'll have to do a bit more regarding what's open and what's not. There is a great list published by Tavole Romane that will help you out.Also, you didn't mention your exact dates, so it's hard to comment.

A few comments:
Yes, you need reservations at Sostanza.
Pretty sure Pizzarium is closed till end of month.
I'm not a fan of Crispino.
We are all mostly off of Grano, since they were charging a surcharge to tourists.
I've heard that the Chiostro di Bramante has closed, but haven't confirmed that yet.
Casalinga doesn't accept reservations.
Never heard of Der Belli.

In general, for dinner, it's always good to make reservations unless you don't mind waiting.

www.ElizabethMinchilliInRome.com

Aug 19, 2014
minchilli in Italy

Rome: 4 days in August, Itinerary Discussion/Recommendations

Thank you!!!

As others have already pointed out, you're hitting Ferragosto (which, by the way, happy Ferragosto today!)

There are many blog postings on what's closed that day and what else is open in August, but I don't think I'm allowed to link to them because the people who have written them are my friends. So you'll have to do a search with google.

That said, a few Monti tips: Est,est,est is bad. Better: Le Carette on Madonna dei Monti.

Also in Monti that I love and is new: Brocoletti on Via Urbana, across from Urbana 47. Very low key and excellent food.

www.ElizabethMinchilliInRome.com

Aug 14, 2014
minchilli in Italy

Does anyone know of nice place to hold aperitivo party in Florence for guests - night before wedding?

Amazing views are at Se.Sto, which is on top of the Westin Excelsior. They have a private dining room looking towards the center of Florence with probably the best views in town. The chef, Entiana Osmenzeza, is considered to be one of the best in Italy.

For something a bit more low key, there is Golden View Open Bar. Also the name is dorky, the place is actually very nice. Just on the other side of the river, with amazing views of the Ponte Vecchio.

www.ElizabethMinchilliInRome.com

Aug 14, 2014
minchilli in Italy
1

Any recommended cooking classes or schools in Florence ?

There is a great new cooking school located within the Mercato Centrale. The classes are run by the Lorenza de Medici school and take place in a modern new kitchen within the newly opened food hall atop the old market below. I'm not sure of their schedule, but as I understand they will have daily classes.

While you are at it,in another section of the Mercato you can take a short wine tasting course.

www.ElizabethMinchilliInRome.com

Aug 14, 2014
minchilli in Italy

Cooking class/"landmark" bar: 2 Venice questions

Generally cooking classes with executive chefs at hotels are usually demonstration only. It's been my experience that this is the last thing in the world that this chef wants to be doing, and so you really don't get a true cooking lesson.

I think a much funner thing to do, food wise, would be to take a private cooking class or even a food walk, so that you get out and see some of the city as well. Monica Ceserato does both, and her walks are super fun:
http://www.cookinvenice.com/

For something more upscale (which maybe your husband is more comfortable with?) Italy Hotline does a private cooking class in a 17th c. Palace
http://italyhotline.com/tour/private_...

Hope this helps!

www.ElizabethMinchilliInRome.com

Aug 08, 2014
minchilli in Italy

Florence - Il Santo Bevitore or Tre Soldi

Yay! Happy it worked out. And thanks for checking back in.
And yes, Santo Bevitore is the perfect mix of fun atmosphere with great food.

www.ElizabethMinchilliInRome.com

Aug 08, 2014
minchilli in Italy