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Trip Report March 2013

Spring is worth a visit. My meal was not perfect, but a perfectly cooked fish was part of it. I'm looking forward to trying it again.

Mar 25, 2013
ferriswren in France

Trip Report March 2013

Quick observations on a couple of stalwarts on this board:

Spring
This meal started poorly with grilled squid, very plain, near tasteless. The second course set things right. Whiting fried whole and topped with frisee and accompanied by a lobster broth. Fish perfectly cooked. Broth a clean lobster essence. Then roast chicken along with a lobster infusion. Doubling up on the lobster flavor seemed like a missed chance by the chef. Dessert of pear clafouti; fresh pear slices dashed with lime zest and ground coffee; vanilla ice cream. An excellent wine: 2010 Gevrey-Chambertin/Trapet. Only two other tables for lunch on Friday afternoon. Here’s hoping that’s an anomaly. Would try a menu or two from other seasons.

Atao
Moules and sautéed potatoes on offer for 12 Euro, but I couldn’t resist the pot au feu. An extravagant array of seafood: daurade, shrimp, scallops, oysters, clams and a good, hot broth. Perfect for a cold, rainy day. Clams overcooked, potato undercooked, but on balance a fine lunch. Surprised here as well since there were only two other tables for lunch, but a Tuesday. Will definitely return.

Also:

Dans les Landes
This was a mistake after a recent trip to Barcelona. Only one dish stood out: the mushroom and truffle clafouti. For those who haven’t been here yet, they do show TV sports in the restaurant. The night we were there, France vs Scotland and too many of my wife’s soft-spoken relatives having crossed the channel didn’t help my impression. A note on pricing: This could have been a very reasonable (40 euro for two) light dinner if we had stopped after salad, the clafouti, charcuterie, and 50cl rioja. But we never do. Then came shrimp with wasabi, artichoke puree, more wine, and and and… Will probably give it another try with a different set of dishes and a quick check of the rugby and football schedules.

Brasserie Isle St. Louis
In my never-ending search for the perfect choucroute, we once more braved the Scots who had crowded in here to soothe their hangovers and their feelings after a tough loss. We were led to this unlikely spot by Alec Lobrano’s writeup, but I found the choucroute over-spiced with pepper and juniper. I’m a fan of spicy food, but out of place for me in this dish where I seek naught but comfort. Will continue the search.

Verre au Pied
Not a place to eat, but it is on our walking route from the 13th where we sometimes stay. It’s good for a quick drink if rue Mouffetard and the Pantheon are on your itinerary. I’m always fascinated that in the heart of a tourist mecca it seems to attract so many locals. Judging by the scraps of French I’m able to catch at the bar anyway. Drop a coin in the cup for grandson Auguste’s education.

Ferris

Mar 22, 2013
ferriswren in France

l’Anacréon in the 13th?

Walked by today to have a look and they were closed. Sign says they will be reopening next week - Tuesday. That's our last night in town for this trip, so probably won't risk it for their first night back. Had heard from neighbors in the 13th where we sometimes stay that the quality of ingredients was high, but precious little else since they usually order oysters and grilled sardines. A search here on Chowhound turned up zero.

Mar 15, 2013
ferriswren in France

l’Anacréon in the 13th?

Eric Tessier. Focus on seafood including oysters from Cancale N°3/Sylvain Bertheau. Worth a visit?

Thanks.

Ferris

Mar 12, 2013
ferriswren in France

Lunch along promenade plantée?

Many thanks.

Feb 18, 2013
ferriswren in France

Lunch along promenade plantée?

We’re planning a leisurely walk this spring and would appreciate any thoughts on good places to stop for an even more leisurely lunch (under 50€ pp). Not picky about the type of cuisine in this case. Recommendations farther afield than Bastille much appreciated.

Thanks.

Ferris

Feb 17, 2013
ferriswren in France

Choucroute: The Talbott Method

Many thanks. Will be sure to pay a visit to this market and give the choucroute a try.

Dec 02, 2011
ferriswren in France

Choucroute: The Talbott Method

Thanks, Randy.

Since the consensus here seems to be that restaurant choucroute in Paris is less than stellar, I thought that as an alternative someone might have recent experience with a reliable market vendor where I could get closer to the flavor I remember.

Most of the choucroute I’ve had over my last few trips, including the usual suspects, just lacks that depth and richness of flavor that makes the dish one of my favorites.

Have not tried Bofinger in a long while. Will be in the neighborhood next week.

Thanks again.

Nov 29, 2011
ferriswren in France

Dinner near the Hale Koa

Thank you to everyone for your suggestions. We ended up at the Ocean House since we were able to secure golf cart transport from the Hale Koa for the older folks.

The menu worked well for the range of diners we had and the staff was very helpful. They do have a small private room, but we sat in the main dining area adjacent to the beach. Food was good, fish well prepared, not a destination restaurant certainly, but for this kind of event and crowd, I'd recommend it. Thanks again.

-----
Ocean House Restaurant
2169 Kalia Rd, Honolulu, HI 96815

Nov 26, 2011
ferriswren in Hawaii

Choucroute: The Talbott Method

Generous landlord has promised free use of the radiator in the apartment we are renting and we don’t want to miss the opportunity for choucroute.

Wondering if it would be a sin to bypass ingredients from Bon Marche and instead purchase a readymade version at a market and “heat on radiator.” Seem to recall seeing a pot of it at the Raspail Market. Is there usually a reliable vendor there? Other market options?

Thanks.

Nov 25, 2011
ferriswren in France

Dinner near the Hale Koa

My folks will no doubt eat at the Hale Koa a few times while there (perhaps pizza with the Prez), so that base is covered. Thanks everyone for your suggestions. A table for ten is turing out to be the roadblock.

Oct 25, 2011
ferriswren in Hawaii

Dinner near the Hale Koa

My parents are celebrating their 60th wedding anniversary next month and staying at the Hale Koa. A special dinner is planned at a friend’s house, but I’d also like to arrange a more casual family dinner for ten within walking distance (1/2 mile) of the Hale Koa. A broad menu would be best -- some adventurous eaters and some grilled fish only types. Under $50/pp not including wine.

Thanks in advance for your help.

Oct 24, 2011
ferriswren in Hawaii

Marais, but with a twist?

Thanks, again, Simon. We liked the neighborhood just north of Place des Vosges and will try Chez Janou again, just earlier in the day.

Apr 21, 2011
ferriswren in France

Marais, but with a twist?

I had hoped to write long before now about my plan to become a regular at a few places in the Marais. But life got in the way.

Thanks again to forestcollins, simon, johnecampbell, and evening for their help in getting me started on this project.

As for my plan, let me say that I can provide another data point for that old quote that goes something like: “No plan survives contact with the enemy.” And, as is often the case, friends are the greatest of enemies.

Our visit happened to coincide with those of three friends and the chaos of coordination was lots of fun, but not conducive to the laid-back neighborhood vibe I had intended or the serious attention required to become a regular. Next time.

Places we tried:

Café des Musees – Fit the bill. Locals having lunch and good food as noted many times on this board. Our highlight was a snappingly fresh gazpacho. A hot week. So we ate mostly salads and all were fresh and quite tasty. Staff recognized us on our return visits and welcomed us back. Just what we were looking for.

Chez Janou – Our apartment was a block away, so we had hoped to make this our local. Alas, that was not to be. We tend to eat late lunches and that didn’t work here. On two occasions they had sold out of much of the menu leading to humorous five-minute exchanges. “OK, then, I’ll have… Désolé, M…Well, what about… Désolé, M …Perhaps the… Désolé, M.” Our seven-year-old called it, “The restaurant of no food available.” We then tried to make a reservation in-person for any of the next three evenings and were told that would not be necessary. “But, just come in. We will be happy to welcome you.” We declined and decided on confirmed reservations elsewhere. Our fault for not making reservations at earlier serving times on our first two attempts, but our third try is still puzzling.

Les Fou d’en Face was closed on the day we wandered by so we went across the square to Le Bistro de la Place – A good basic lunch of vegetable soup, snails, and mussels. And good value. The seven-year-old preferred the mussels to the snails.

Café Martini – Just off the Place des Vosges at 11 Rue du Pas de la Mule. Had a decent ham sandwich here, but came back for the 4€ Stella special. Yes, a hot week and a real bargain compared to the 11€ I paid for beer in desperation at some places. Again, a hearty welcome back. Only dropped by during the day. Small and relaxing here except when the Moms roll the baby strollers in.

Le Manguier – Missed this one.

Enjoyed the attempt and will try this plan again.

Apr 20, 2011
ferriswren in France

Lunch en route to Ithaca NY from Philadelphia?

Only had pizza in this area, but it's very good pizza (even if USA Today agrees).

http://arcaroandgenell.com/hours.htm

Jul 12, 2010
ferriswren in Pennsylvania

Marais, but with a twist?

Thanks, Simon. A 20 minute walk to Senegal. I'm all for that.

Jul 10, 2010
ferriswren in France

Marais, but with a twist?

Thanks, Forest. I'll give it a try.

Jul 10, 2010
ferriswren in France

Marais, but with a twist?

Will not be seeing the sights of Paris this summer. Just want to walk the neighborhood. I aspire to become a “regular” at a few local eating and drinking establishments.

So, the plan is to find restaurants that I’d like to eat at more than once. My fungible limit: a twenty-minute walk from Place des Vosges.

Assuming twelve lunches/dinners at apartment and twelve out, that’s 3 to 4 restaurants, 4 to 3 times each.

Happy to sample a range of prices, but not all the same prices and understand that in Paris this will cost some money. Cuisine not a major issue, although I can satisfy Asian food cravings in other cities.

Multiple visits in this neighborhood the overriding goal. Will be back in November for a more traditional city and restaurant tour and, if all goes well, re-acquaintance with my new regular haunts.

I realize that restaurants in the Marais have been discussed in depth and I’ve read the threads, but it appears that most of those discussions are in the context of sampling a restaurant once per trip. Does my multiple meals goal change your thinking?

Food quality a given. But then, menu variety? Comfortable place? Friendly owners or patrons? How would you lean?

Thanks for your guidance.

Jul 08, 2010
ferriswren in France

Rue du Vertbois

With all the renewed hubbub about L'Ami Louis, I wanted to point out that "lost" reservations present possibilities. Le Vertbois, Pramil, and La Table d'Ana. Are fine places to eat and steps away.

May 02, 2010
ferriswren in France