I've returned from my trip. With an itinerary focused heavily on art and architecture, I didn't have much time for olive oil shopping in Milan. I did manage to purchase a bottle of oil from Lago di Garda in Vicenza from a specialty shop called Il Ceppo. The oil was their house brand and quite delicious, much milder and grassier than the olive oil from Puglia I had on my previous trip to Italy this spring. I didn't manage to visit the controversial Peck, or to buy any olive oil in Urbino, since I was there on a Sunday and most of the shops were closed. We did eat some wonderful cresce, but that's another story......

I will be back to Italy soon, so I certainly will not miss out on trying these regional olive oils. I thank you all again for your suggestions!

Thanks bob96 for the good wishes and for aiding and abetting my olive oil addiction.

Hmmm, perhaps I'll be forced against my will to visit some of those gelato stands.....

I went to Eataly a few years ago in Bologna--I didn't know there was one in Milan. I don't mind having a look in there again, or Peck, which I've never heard of but seems to be a source of controversy! :)

Thanks to you both--just the information I was looking for. I do hope to go to the farmer's markets if the timing works out.

http://www.101cookbooks.com/archives/...

The quinoa patties from 101 cookbooks are delicious and travel well.

I'm an olive oil addict! Two of the towns I'll visit on my next trip--Milan and Urbino, are regions where I've never purchased olive oil. I'd love your advice on delicious oil from Lombardy and Marche and where I can buy them in Milan and Urbino. Thanks!

Lucky you to be returning so soon! We didn't eat any any restaurants--we subsisted on excellent picnics and b&b breakfasts. (If you are looking for a fine, cheap b&b in Matera, I highly recommend B&B Donna Eleonora: great breakfast, great everything).

erica, thanks for the information about the market in Matera. We visited twice for produce, and also for cheese and bread. Holy smokes: that Matera bread is wonderful! We also loved the fresh cheese, and were given two balls of mozarella as a sample just for showing up. I have fond memories of our delicious picnics in the sassi!

I'm back! Although I succeeded in consuming an epic amount of olive oil, I confess I did I poor job recording the names of the oils and the places I bought them. My favorite was also the cheapest: a bottle from a grocery store in Matera for 3.50 euro. I found the olive oil from Matera and the Bari area to be distinct, with a sharp taste that kicks in about 10 seconds after you put in in your mouth. It almost burned, I loved it! Also enjoyed some olive oil made in Sorrento, which was mellow and grassy.

I assure you I will be back to these stunning towns and their fabulous olive oils, and I slow down long enought to record everything. Thanks again for your advice!

Thanks 2friends, bob96 and erica. I've bookmarked this info in my traveling documents. Can wait!

Sì, lo farò. Grazie, bob96!

This is wonderful, bob96! Most of the cities I'm visiting are listed.

The phrase "cheese bar" is certainly one of the better things I've ever heard in life. Thanks so much for the Naples tips. This will be my first trip there and I'm planning on eating myself silly.

Thank you erica. No, I did not know about that SlowFood guide. It's just what I was looking for--what a great resouce! Yes, I will keep in mind the midday closures. When I first started travelling it took me by surprise and I would have a growling stomach all afternoon....

This March I will visit Naples, Matera and Puglia (Lecce, Ostuni, Alberobello, Trani and Bari). I have a thing for olive oil. I really, really like it. Can you help me find local, seasonal olive oil in these regions? Markets or small shops are great. I don't go to fancy restaurants but I like street food. And I'd be pleased to eat pizza that's cooked with amazing olive oil. Thanks!

Excellent! Thanks so much for this information!

Thank you for this delicous trip report. I will be in Matera soon. Do you happen to remember if the farmers market is open every day or just Saturdays? How about the hours?

Thank you Yank. Yes, there will be a next time! This is actually our second trip to France this year as we spent 10 days in Burgundy in March. The low budget approach insures we can travel more, and eat more amazing foods.

Ah, I didn't know that. Yes, next time for sure!

Yes, they all had it but it seemed that it was either just at the start of the cooking process and not cooked yet or we were too late and the chicken was cold and dried out looking. Bad timing I guess......

Yes indeed we could have, but happily we didn't. I see I neglected to write that we tried a smoked magret too. It was rare and tender and lovely!

We've returned from our trip, exceptionally grateful for all the delicious advice receive on this thread. This was a very low budget trip and yet we ate like royalty! We carried what we called a picnic kit (cutlery, corkscrew, wine flask, plastic bowls) which allowed us to picnic at whim. The weather was kind to us so we ate mostly outside in front of gorgeous cathedrals, etc, or while in transit (we got around exclusively by train/bus). We tried to sample everything recommended and were about 80% successful. At the beginning of the trip we bought a bottle of local walnut oil and throughout our travels stopped in supermarkets for pre-washed bags of greens so that we could have salads and so that our diet would not consist exclusively of pates and cheese. :). Although going to supermarkets wasn't part of the goal, they were actually quite fun--while in the L'Eclerec supermarket in Rodez we were giggling at the aisle dedicated exclusively to canned duck and goose products. Otherwise we got our food from bakeries, cheese shops and such as well as the outdoor markets in Brive, Perigueux, Cahors and Toulouse.

We are well pleased with our decision to forgo Rocamadour in favor of Figeac. What a handsome town with wonderful food! We ate a memorable onion tart from a bakery there, with a flaky crust and a sweet tasting white cheese. Also hot from the oven flavorful sausages baked inside a baguette. The Brive market was quite a delight and we had some sauteed potatoes with lots of garlic and parsley that a vendor was cooking in a big wok. We ate this with confit d'onion as a relish (sorry to shock you if this is unorthodox but believe me it was tasty! ) We made it to Perigueux just in time for the foie gras market (didn't see any truffles) and had a fig stuffed with foie gras and a foie gras wrapped in bacon. We had several Rocamadour cheeses but the best were from the market in Toulouse--they had a creamy interior different from the others almost like a Époisses. In Cahors we bought a wonderful Trappe Echourgnac and in Perigueux a Gaperon cheese (looked like a meringue) which we brought on the train with us and ate while waiting to see the Fonte de gaume caves. In Cahors we finally found the Croustilot bread and enjoyed it's flavor and aggressive crust. And so so much more that I am leaving out. Oh, and Cafors AOC wine too.

We didn't manage to have aligot as we couldn't find any place that had it ready to eat. We saw it about shrinkwrapped in plastic tubs but when we asked someone if he could heat it for us he said it was impossible and made many stirring motions with his hands while telling us it could only be prepared on the stove. I tried to then find it it Figeac only to be told that of course I could only eat that in Aveyron. We also did not manage to get a fermier chicken or some of the sausages listed here as we were unsure as to their readiness to eat. Of course, now we will need to return again in the very near future to finish the job.

Thanks to all for your advice!

"Goose Fat & Garlic" sounds like a perfect Christmas present for my mother, who is a chef. (I'll give it to her with strings attatched--that she must cook the recipes for me)!

I will certainly try to find confit d'onion--might even be good just as a bread topping.

Thanks! Is the Melsat ready to eat or must it be cooked?

Merci, Parigi.

I will certainly report back. People who help me find delicious food and clean bathrooms are my favorite people!

Thank you Da Ubergeek! My husband speaks French quite well. We will be much bolder in asking for what we need, now that I know it is acceptable. Thank you!

Okay you've convinced me! I'll go to Figeac and eat at La Cuisine du Marche. We'll be there on a Saturday morning too so will not miss the market.

Yes, we will be visiting Cahors (though not, sadly, on market day) and the caves. I am esp. thrilled about the clean loos.

Thanks all!