breakfast in dublin

arriving early am from the airport into Dublin and looking for recommendations for breakfast (doesn't have to be the full Irish meal) north neighborhoods preferable.

thanks.

4seasons in U.K./Ireland

Best Indian or Middle Eastern eatery in/or around Dublin?

My friend adores curries or spicy food, and really good Eastern or Mid-Eastern seems hard to find in Dublin. Either it's really cheaply-made take-away or pretentious Raj "cuisine". Visiting in July & would appreciate several recs.

4seasons in U.K./Ireland

What's the latest food story in Dublin? restaurants? Pubs? Farmers markets?

Going to Dublin mid-July. I've been several times & have my favorites, but please update what's going on with good food in the city. What the best, biggest farmers market in the city? Inexpensive Places to buy liquor & wine?

thanks so much!

4seasons in U.K./Ireland

Bayridge: best places to buy Italian & Swedish provisions: bakeries, salumeria, delis?

Going to Tanoreen for lunch, and would like to explore the neighborhood for Italian & Swedish food stores. Recommendations would be most appreciated

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Tanoreen
7523 3rd Ave, Brooklyn, NY 11209

4seasons in Outer Boroughs

Recent Account of Good Authentic Food in Rome:Trattorias, Wine Bars, Salumeria, Bakeries, Gelati, Outdoor Markets

Just returned from a late-March stay in Rome. What follows are notes from our 8-day “movable feast” albeit a limited sampling of trattorias, wine bars, salumeria, bakeries, gelati, outdoor markets culled from Downies’ “Food Wine in Rome”, suggestions from these boards, Knopf’s Map Guide “Rome”, several travel articles, and of course, serendipity:

Best Meals

The ones we made in the evening at our apartment, after long, tiring days exploring Rome: variations on fresh seasonal greens, fennel, olives and Sicilian tomatoes tossed in dressing (anchovy the preferred) served alongside slices of artisanal prosciutto or porchetta quaffed down with a robust red wine, blood red oranges and butter cookies for dessert; or brilliant yellow omlettes stuffed with goat cheese or fresh herbs garnished by spring arugula.

Best Trattoria

Gino (near Parliament) at 1:00 seating where all the locales piled in and were seated by 1:05 ready to dig into their lunch specials. Carbonara was divine; tender chunks of spring lamb and a refreshing salad of puntarella followed. While this is not inspired cooking, Gino’s is honest-to-goodness food. Out by 2:20 served by gregarious son of Gino, the proprietor, a Fellini character, who still grates Romano for his favorite clientele. In fact the whole place felt like homage to 1950’s Roma. Bill, without wine, about 20 euro pp. Reservations necessary. Nearby, I think Campo Parlamenta, treated ourselves to delicious, melt-in-the-mouth chocolate/hazelnut gelato.

Worst Trattoria

Puzzled by its long lines outside every night (except Sunday; we were staying in an apartment across the way) we were tempted by Augusto. While the food itself was not memorable (tired, poorly-done home cooking of braised veal and over-steamed broccoli rabe), the hasty and indifferent manner in which the dishes were thrown at us made the entire experience unpleasant, a terrible way to end our trip. Cheap fare.

Best Wine Bars (descending order)

Casa Bleve (near Piazza Navona), our first meal in Rome, raised the standard for all else. A classic, light-filled, spacious setting serves up a lovely antipasti buffet at lunch: beautifully-prepared grilled/sautéd vegetables of the season, an array of jewel-like cured meats, gorgeous cheeses plus a fragrant rigatoni and hot second course, stewed rabbit. Price-fix (without wine) a bargain at 35 euro (our brimming doggy bags afforded two evening meals).

Pleasant Trimani (near Terme Diocleziano) was almost empty on a Saturday afternoon. The food was imaginative and refreshing, the staff more than helpful (made recs and a reservation for that evening’s dinner). Expansive liquor bar.

Sunday Best (when most restaurants are closed)

What a way to cap off wandering the Ghetto than to taste traditional Roman-Jewish fare at Taverna del Ghetto. Savored spagahetti with anchovies and raisins and coratella con carciofi (lung/heart bits with artichoke). For the experience, reasonable at 25 euro pp.

Salumerias (delis plus), descending order

Volpetti (in Testaccio) stocks everything great in bountiful and stylish piles: outstanding variety of spicy and sweet cold cuts, cheeses, olive oil, vinegars, prepared foods, pasta, pizzas. Watch your euros since the owners tempt foreign visitors with the expensive stuff (hand-cut prosciutto, aged parmesan & balsamic, truffle anything) with free samples. Great source for picnics, like the one we enjoyed at Ostia Antica.

Salumeria in southwest corner of Campo dei Fiori (didn’t get the name). Neighborhood place with a nice selection of good food , at reasonable prices, and friendly staff. Bit of old Rome here.

Roscioli (near Campo dei Fiori) is a high-priced food/wine purveyor with sit-down tables for meals. Since the family has garnered much overseas press, hype accompanies an OK selection of delicacies at deluxe prices.

Bread

While in Rome kept dreaming of the crusty, gossamer-like nuttiness of a good French baguette. Never found anything like that: filoni cut up in the requisite restaurant bread basket or displayed on the forni shelf were leaden, cakey, tasteless … no matter how appealing the looks. Visited these bread bakeries: Forno Campo dei Fiori (best of the lot), Roscioli (near Campo dei Fiori), Antico Forno (della Scrofa), Panficio Passi (Testaccio), Renella (Trastevere), all disappointing. Hint: turn away the bread basket at the trattoria for which you’re charged extra (coverte); if you need carbs, go for pizza bianchi or the great pasta.

Pastry (descending order)

Dolci sweetens the life in Rome. The best pasticcio melt in your mouth, leaving a beautiful aftertaste. Memorable:

Forno Campo dei Fiori (separate from, & opposite the bread bakery) divine cookies (took home bags of crunchy hazelnut drops (brutte ma buone) & miniature butterflies, light as air).

Pasticceria dei Mattei (Natale Grande in Trastevere) neighborhood shop near Cosimato market, is packed with delicious sweets; cream puffs, napoleans, and chocolate cake were favorites.

Cinque Lune (Corso Rinacimento, near Piazza Navona) loved slices of ricotta cheesecake, sfogliatelle, cream puffs.

Gelato descending order)

Gelateria Teatro Coronari (off street of Coronari antiques) Intensity of flavors and unusual varieties coupled with the obvious craft/pride of the owner make this tiny place really special. Wanted to return everyday for a 2 euro cup.

A tea salon near Piazza Parlamento (forgot the name) offered classic, refined gelato with wide selection (my favorite: blueberry coupled with hazelnut). The cone was so good, I went back for a chocolate second. Could it be Giolitti?

Gelateria dei Gracchi (bit off the beaten path, across the Ponte Margherita) is a neighborhood spot that seems to draw toute le monde especially on a warm day. An artisanal product with strong, original flavors (loved the pear almond), this gelateria serves an authentic Rome experience.

San Crispino (see Disappointments)

Disappointments

Trattoria Monti (near S. Maria Maggiore), a small place with a spirited vibe, has attracted a lot of buzz lately (must have a reservation) but I found the food tasteless and ordinary. Penne with bottarga & capers curiously unappetizing, and the fritti of brains and artichokes, greasy and bland. Rabbit rollatini was dry. Saturday night, Monti was jammed with many American foodies comparing notes.

Cafee Sant’ Eustachio (near Pantheon) is supposed to have the best coffee in town, but mine (decaf macciata) was murky and simple in flavor. Note: Can find much better in NYC (Cafee Colombe in Soho). However it was the “attitude” of the place, the indifferent baristas, the brusque cashier, news clips from around the world boasting of its robust coffee … that irritated. Instead, there’s Antico Caffee Brasile (via del Serpenti), just a neighborhood hang-out that locales come to savor some great coffee (& sweets). Staff love what they do and were helpful.

Taverna Dei Quaranta (near Coliseum) packed with high schoolers on spring break was bedlam, so we moved outside but were not wowed by the stale menu, bread, and weak wine. We fled to ‘Ai Tre Scalini (block from Coliseum) where we lunched al fresco on a light, but robust Amatriciana rigatoni and lovely artichoke salad. What a tranquil retreat at 25 euro pp.

Perilli (in Testaccio) A 1950’s mausoleum featuring traditional Roman food and scowling waiters. Pajata d’abbacchio (milk-filled lamb intestines in tomato sauce) tasted lifeless so did the trippa alla romana, and puntarelle salad, watery and wilted. Dreary.

San Crispo (near Trevi Fountain), considered the best gelato in Rome,
seems to be living off its international fame; the ice cream is OK, but I’m not sure the non-stop lines, the surly servers, and the inability to taste a sample or even select your flavor before you’re pushed ahead is worth all the
stress. Part of the fun of the gelato scene, is to inspect the choices, sample a few flavors, and then select your absolute favorite. Can’t do that here!

Food Markets

Loved the small outdoor market at Piazza San Cosimato (Trastevere), reflects a neighborhood feeling & marked friendliness with a nice selection of produce vendors (source of my great salads), cheesemongers, butchers, and some groceries.

Indoor Testaccio market takes up an entire square, offers a greater variety, especially cured meats, but seems a bit more aggressive in attitude & pricing.

For historic significance, can’t beat lovely Campo dei Fiori, with vendors of all sorts spread out amongst the medieval cobble-stoned piazza. Tourists mix with locales for spices/herbs, vegetables/fruit, and flowers while some of the best bakeries, butchers, salumeria, and cafes ring the piazza. Great shopping all around.

4seasons in Italy

Good authentic food in Rome

thank you for your positive reply, Jen. We're staying in an ap't. in Trastevere, near Santa Marie church. I do intend to cook evenings. Even though we have limited time, we hope to explore the four corners of Rome, not merely the Historic Centre sights. More roaming neighborhoods (Aventino & south/east of Borghese Gardens) is what I love to do, and discover some eateries on my own.

4seasons in Italy

Good authentic food in Rome

After reading all the threads, it's clear I was misunderstood and some form of reverse snobbism is operating. First, I have NEVER been to Rome. Two, unfortunately I have only 8 days to spend. So there wouldn't be time to travel outside the city or crisscross the town; it's more likely we'll want to eat where our roaming around the sights takes us. Three, the intention is to sample Rome's restaurants at lunch, and either cook at home or eat lightly for dinner. Four, I am not averse to spending money on well-made food; what I object to, is going for a big name, expensive menu, & celebs. I own a sophisticatedI palate and know good food (former chef/writer), and would be delighted to qualify my favorites in Manhattan (of course this changes all the time). Of the list I provided to mbfant, it would seem she struck out pretty much all of Downie's recs (unless I missed something). I'm not clear what she clearly adores, expensive or not. It seems the "visitor" is put down as a tourist who should expect not such good culinary experiences (maybe hanging out in Volpetti is the answer) since she doesn't know the lingua. I'm still puzzled.

4seasons in Italy

Good authentic food in Rome

Thank you for your very thoughtful reply, mbfant. In NY, I'm a professional cook and source in the city's farmers' markets. However, i do enjoy dining out frequently, especially at lunch to avoid the crowds and which makes it more affordable. We'll be staying at an apartment in Trastevere.

here's the list I compiled of inexpensive to moderate (mostly) places Downie recommends (by area):
3 best open markets: Trianfale, Testaccio, Esquilino Termini
Ghetto: Giggetto al Portico D"Ottavia, Taverna del Ghetto, Il Pompiere, Piperno,Roscioli
Pantheon: Gino
Trevi: Otella alla Concordia
Esquilino: Hosteria Da Angelini, Domenico Dal 1968, Taverna Dei Quaranta
Testaccio: Da Oio A Casa Mia, Perilli, Checchino Dal 1887, Zampagna
Trastevere: Da Giovanni, Da Guldo, Pizzeria Ai Marmi or L"Obitonia
Prati: D'Oro Da Marco E Fabio, Panattoni, L"Arcangelo
wine bars: Cul de Sac, Trimani. Casa Bleve, Cavour 313

I'd love to know what you can recommend from these.
gratefully

4seasons in Italy

Good authentic food in Rome

What do hounders think of David Downe's "Food Wine Rome"? After checking this board against his reviews, it seems most of the recs here are the most expensive, most obvious places to go rather than where locals who appreciate good value/good food would dine.

I'll be in Rome mid-March and would appreciate several suggestions for real trattorias/hosterias known for Roman food and neighborhood homely feeling/price.

thanks.

4seasons in Italy

birthday cake for discerning adults

Now that Payard is out of the picture, I search for a patisserie that bakes refined, delicious cakes that would be center stage for a 65th birthday!

4seasons in Manhattan

April in Paris: a week's eating fest

Just returned from Paris last week (mid-April) and would like to share my (gustatory) experiences; many of the restaurants/shops visited were based on David Lebovitz's/chowhound recs so I owe feedback:
favorites:

macarons/pastry shop: Gerard Mulot/Le Pain du Sucre
chocolate: Pierre Marcolini
outdoor food market: Richard Lenoir, the bustle of Sunday shopping - vendor from
Savoie
interesting/archiac food stores: Izrael Spices and Detou
cheese: Barthlemy and outdoor market in Raspail
restaurants (here we go in descending order):
Intineraires (new w/imaginative takes on the classics; great)
La Ferrandaise (robust, flavorful home-style cooking)
Mon Vieil Ami (lovely food & professional air, and open for Sunday dinner!)
L'Affriole (creative, fresh-tasting)
Le Relais de Isle (delightful lunch fused with jazz on Ile de St Louis)
Chez Dumonet (neighborhood, best cassoulet ever managed to finish)
Regis Huitres (fun cocktail of oysters & Sancerre)
Cheapest, best wine store: Caves Bardou (Faubourg st. Denis)

Disasters/unfortunate;
L'Os a la Moelle (worst dinner anywhere)
Bistrot Paul Bert (highly lauded in English guidebooks,rude management who seem to detest the Americans who find themselves there (my E15 change from the addition was kept by the arrogant patron)
L'Atlas (very tired Moroccan cooking; sad surroundings)
Dehillerin (steep prices for tourists- could pretty much buy anything there in NY for a lot less!)
Goumanyat (nothing special packaged spices at crazy prices)

Surprises
wonderful concerts of baroque & medieval music in small churches, string quartet playing in Sainte Chapelle as dusk turned into night
a post-Lent parade by costumed children down the streets of Montorgeuil
discovered a little 'hood regional place, Le Bistro Gourmand, on Depuis, near Temple, with the best tart tatin EVER

Serendipty: always, everday, unforgettable encounters with people & places
I LOVE PARIS!

4seasons in France

Brattleboro eats

In the fall, I'm looking for some good food and pleasant place (nothing overdone) with reasonable prices. any recs?

4seasons in General New England Archive

Brattleboro eats

In the fall, I'm looking for some good food and pleasant place (nothing overdone) with reasonable prices. any recs?

4seasons in General New England Archive

Birthday @ Inexpensive, quiet, really good place?

Looking for a place that serves up really delcious food in a charming, quiet place, preferably Manhattan, but Brooklyn's fine too.

most gratefully

4seasons in Manhattan

The Best Local .... in Amsterdam

For a trip to Amsterdam in April, select the best local (neighborhood):

cafe or bar
Indonesian eatery
North African eatery
French restaurant
Dutch (regional) restaurant
farmers' market
food delicacy store

thanks for all the input

4seasons in International

Latest report from Dublin: from sublime to ho hum

In gratitude for all the good recs received chezChowhounds. After gathering notes from here (chowhounds namely) & there on the best eating spots in this fair city, here's the round-up actually visited (nov. 20 - 29):

The Not-to-be Misseds (based on preference for tasty, local food with imaginative cooking):

Winding Stair (great sourcing, full bodied dishes and drink)
Cavistons (fresh fish and jovial neighborhood feeling, a bit of Dublin of old)
Gueulleton (Gallic brasserie with an real Irish & fair prices for lovely meals; no reservations taken so get there for lunch late - after 1:30 or early for dinner, before 6;30)
Sheridan's (Cheese & stuff) for take-out; superb collection of local cheese with knowledeble staff)
Queen of Tarts (across from City Hall), a tiny place offering spot-on teas and lovely sandwiches/quiches; lovely for lunch or pick-me-ups

Good but Not Greats:

Chapter One (3-course pre-theatre special: nouveau without robust flavors, kind of precious)
Dunne & Crescenzi ( 4 of them around the city; for the price, fresh Italy in Dublin)
Chez Max (just outside Dublin Caste; a real French bistro in the heart of the city; food's
OK but the atmospheric is the real thing)

Can Be Skipped:

Leo Burdocks (fish n' chips greasy sppon popular with tourists)
Stag Head (old pub in city centre, malty around the edge, also popular with tourists but not the real thing)
Avoca Cafe (heart of shopping district; very busy with so-so ladies who lunch nibbles)

Outside Dublin, in the really majestic, wild west of the country, seek out Delphi Lodge, an traditional fishing lodge in Connemara secreted between two mountains and a lake, for charming hospitality, freshest local ingredients, and great home-cooking taken to the next sublime level. The most restful hideaway!

4seasons in U.K./Ireland

Dublin

for an excellent guide to the best (and often, little known) small hotels & restaurants, seek out Georgina Campbell's "The Best Guide To Eat, Drink, and Stay". I'd recommend in Ballsbridge these b & bs (only 10 minutes away from Stephen's Green): Aberdeen Lodge (voted best Irish breakfast, Butlers Town House, Cedar Lodge, Glenogra House, and Raglan Lodge!

4seasons in U.K./Ireland

Fresh local seafood in Dublin

Thanks David. Is King Sitric too large and touristy? What dishes would you recommend?

4seasons in U.K./Ireland

Ice Cream Craving!!!

I believe none of the aforementioned compare with Gelato Laboratorio (in richness and real flavors) on Orchard St and Ciao Bello on East 92nd St. and lesser (another owener) on Mott St. (Nolita)

4seasons in Manhattan