Apple Tarte Tatin Musings and Requested Opinions

Wow, 2.5 hours is a long time to cook those apples! Forty five minutes seems right to me, in a two-stage approach that lessens the risk of the apples (which should be firm to begin) turning to mush. First stage is at medium heat, to cook the apples, losing their moisture and allowing the sugar / butter to begin to caramelize. That should be about thirty minutes. Turning the heat up to medium high, and watching closely, allows the caramel to turn a dark brown, coating the apples with a rich and dark coating. I turn the apples from time to time at this stage.

One observation is that most tarte tatins are a little too light of color, as if the cook is nervous of allowing a full caramel to develop.

Other than these minor observations (with the addition that if you don't have vanilla sugar in your pantry, you should start now!), all the others are well taken.

Sean Dell in Home Cooking

Plattekill, Roxbury

Ciao Hounds,

I'll be taking my little gang to Plattekill for a day's skiing tomorrow. Ordinarily, I would head back to our cabin for dinner (an hour to the west). But there are complaints from the teenagers that they are hungry immediately after skiing, and would like to eat more or less immediately.

Is there anything in Roxbury? Something better than a diner, perhaps, without being fancy?

We can't go east on 28, so Fleischmanns or Phoenicia are out.

Margaretville is a no-go area in culinary matters. We might make the slog to the Andes Hotel, but that adds another half-hour to our journey, which is hard on the 3yo.

Suggestions would be greatly appreciated and gratefully received!

Sean

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Andes Hotel
110 Main St, Andes, NY 13731

Sean Dell in New York State (exc. New York City)

Rec needed for 13yo girls' dinner, midtown west

Hey Folks,

I'm entertaining twenty 13yo girls for my daughter's birthday in a month's time.

Any recs in midtown west (this will place us nicely for the movie that we'll go to afterwards).

Thank you.

Sean

Sean Dell in Manhattan

Room needed for cocktail party, midtown

Excellent idea, Leah. I'll have a look, thank you.

Sean

Sean Dell in Manhattan

Room needed for cocktail party, midtown

Hey Hounds,

I need to host a small cocktail party, with drinks and hors d'oeuvres, somewhere in midtown (although downtown would work if there was a really strong recommendation).

Any suggestions for a good room that would hold 25+ (no more than 50) in some comfort and a little style?

Thank you,

Sean

Sean Dell in Manhattan

Upper West side Recs

Some great suggestions for this ex UWSider, now migrated to the barren UES. I'm particularly keen to try Kefi and West Branch.

But no-one mentioned 'Cesca, which I think is really good. Or Cafe Luxembourg, which is a lovely room with a great burger. Or even Gabriel's, which is a very good standby.

Sean Dell in Manhattan

Need Great Moderate Upper Westside Restaurant near Beacon Hotel

One of my favorite standbys, since I came to New York fifteen years ago, is Cafe Luxembourg, on 70th, just west of Amsterdam.

It tends to be overlooked by 'hounds, but I've never understood why. Great hamburger, excellent fries, and all the usual bistro favs. And it is within your budget, if you don't go nuts.

Have fun.

- Sean

Sean Dell in Manhattan

A lengthy dinner on the UWS

All those in favor of 'Cesca, say aye!

It's the place for you. Watch the budget, order carefully. But you can be boisterous, and the room will absorb you without problem. Besides, there's a very large table for 12, I think, that is semi private. Perfect for your group.

When you're done at "Cesca, you can choose a number of local beer joints at which to continue the revels.

- Sean

Sean Dell in Manhattan

Bouley: Dress code?

At lunch, it's not such a big deal, as long as the look is not completely slacker.
For dinner, it should be smarter, and a jacket is the right call.

I would disagree, for example, with Guts of Steel on the jeans issue. If I may be so bold, I think I cut a minor dash in my jeans, my shoes well polished, a crisply starched shirt and a nice blazer. In fact, I could have sworn I caught the eye of the minor celeb as I walked in, but since I can't tell you her name, she might as well have been a nobody!

Each to his own, I guess.

- Sean

Sean Dell in Manhattan

Bouley: Dress code?

It's such an eclectic mix that virtually anything is acceptable. At lunch this week, there were highly coiffed little old ladies, who had clearly been putting on their armour for hours. There were little knots of pretty girls, a couple of guys in jeans, me in khakis and a sweater, my friend in a very downtown ensemble of barely legal blouse and mini-skirt.

It's not a spit and sawdust bar, so wear your jeans with something cool. But there's no need to dress up to the 999s.

- Sean

Sean Dell in Manhattan

Wild Salmon: Where's the best?

For what it's worth, I stopped by Fairway for other staples yesterday and looked at the fish. But it was a quick look. The fish there doesn't look to be of the highest quality.

- Sean

Sean Dell in Manhattan

Eleven Madison Park, Babbo, or Bouley--Help me choose for my 30th birthday

What a nice invitation, and I love your Dad's caveat not to book Per Se! Leaves you great options.

Here's my read:

Babbo is jumping and festive, and the food is very very good, particularly the pasta. It is packed with atmosphere, the branzino that I ate there was very good (but I would say no better than at a dozen other restaurants in NYC), and good luck getting a reservation.

Eleven Madiosn Park is excellent, with all the hallmarks of a Danny Meyer joint. Very good service, and good food. The fish there is always in top condition. I had branzino there too, and it was better than at Babbo. But not much, to be honest. The room is big but a little corporate for my liking.

And then to Bouley. The atmosphere is warm and quiet. The food is unebelievably good, particularly the fish. Bouley has a way with fish. I had cod there this week for lunch. Now cod is a mild, somewhat bland fish, but it has a lovely flaky texture and you have to cook it carefully. Mine was perfect, and was beautifully executed and composed with mushrooms and peas, and other tasty things. I think it is very grand and celebratory, without the highly caffeinated feeling of Babbo. The food is a notch well above both Babbo and EMP.

How 'bout this. Go a little early and treat yourselves to a drink at the bar in Danube, which is around the corner (the champagne cocktail with elderflower cordial is yummy). Then walk around to Bouley and be pampered for your birthday.

Have fun, wherever you go.

- Sean

Sean Dell in Manhattan

Wild Salmon: Where's the best?

Ciao Hounds,

I called around and all that was available was wild Alaskan King salmon. Incidentally, beware 'organic' Scottish salmon. It's farmed, and the word organic in this context does serious injury to the language!

So, in the end, I opted for convenience (I live on the UES) and went to Eli's Vinegar Factory, where I got wonderful fish for a quite penurious price.

Thanks for all the recs.

- Sean

Sean Dell in Manhattan

Tough Chowhound challenge - Upscale/non-stuffy/foodie celebration dinner

It's a bit of a toss-up Kathryn. They are essentially similar, but I prefer the room at Union Sq Cafe. And I don't believe it's resting on its laurels, although I recognize that this view is pretty widespread.

- Sean

Sean Dell in Manhattan

Tough Chowhound challenge - Upscale/non-stuffy/foodie celebration dinner

You're right, this is a tough circle to square.

However, I second Union Sq Cafe, which I think is better than 11 Madison Park, in a similar vein.

Also consider Danube. Not as quiet as Bouley but with great food and a celebratory feeling to the room.

And my sleeper suggestion, the Modern. The food certainly hits the standard. And if you think the Modern might be too stuffy (I think it would be perfect) then the bar-room at the Modern is more relaxed, but with the same food. And plenty of activity so you don't have to keep your head down too far..

Notice the Danny Meyer theme coming through here?

- Sean

Sean Dell in Manhattan

Balthazar review

When I worked across the street from Balthazar, my favorite lunch at the bar was a green salad and french fries. Perfect lunch, and on fridays, washed down with a glass of house red. Mmmm..

- Sean

Sean Dell in Manhattan

Balthazar review

I'm on record as loving the duck shepherd's pie, which I think is one of the best things in New York, and not at all like the usual bistro menu fare in this town, which most people can almost recite by rote.

Again, too bad about the wine, which I think must have been a mistake. In all my times going there, I've never worried about being ripped off.

Have fun next time 'round.

- Sean

Sean Dell in Manhattan

Wild Salmon: Where's the best?

Ciao Hounds,

I am usually reluctant to buy any salmon in New York since a lot of the fishmongers habitually pass off farmed salmon as wild (it's easy to spot the difference).

However, I have a demand for it this weekend, from a guest. Anyone got any current recs on good sources of wild Atlantic salmon in NYC at the moment?

Gracias,

- Sean

Sean Dell in Manhattan

Underrated Restaurants

Great to know. I keep forgetting about this place, but I will make a special effort to go in the next couple of weeks. Alex Ureña certainly has great credentials.

- Sean

Sean Dell in Manhattan

Bouley attitudes?

This comes up from time to time, someone 'shocked' by how awful this or that place is, how does it deserve this reputation, etc etc.

I love Le Bernadin, and the funny thing is, about six months ago, I saw David Bouley eating there!. But I love Bouley too, and like Ellenost, I think the cooking is among the very best in New York.

Different strokes, I guess...

- Sean

Sean Dell in Manhattan

Best "big name" restaurant

Babbo is unique, and it certainly has a big name. Nor is there anything like it anywhere else, but I don't think it should be your big splurge.

Both EMP and Gramercy Tavern are fine restaurants, and I particularly like the latter.

But what about Bouley? What about Daniel? Both have outstanding food and wine.

Have fun.

- Sean

Sean Dell in Manhattan

What other restaurants have fries like Balthazar?

Exactly! I always eat them at Pearl, but I'm never happy doing so.

-- Sean

Sean Dell in Manhattan

Bar Martignetti - Comically Bad Experience!

Oh no. I had no idea it was the same joint! Here's a quote from the article that more or less sums it up:

" Bar Martignetti, a two-level restaurant and nightclub on Broome Street in SoHo that was opened in November by two brothers who are well-schooled in upper crust debauchery."

Debauchery my eye. No wonder it was empty at lunchtime. I have learned my lesson.

- Sean

Sean Dell in Manhattan

What other restaurants have fries like Balthazar?

Ciao Hounds,

I hate to be contrarian, and I love fries, of all sorts, from thick-cut fish-n-chips like you get in the old fashioned places in London, or the fancier fries in places like Balthazar. But I've never believed that shoestring fries really qualify.

Is it me, or am I missing something?

- Sean

Sean Dell in Manhattan

Bar Martignetti - Comically Bad Experience!

Ciao Hounds,

Was in the admirable Despaña, the Spanish food market in Soho, yesterday, and decided to have lunch next door in Bar Martignetti, which is new to me.

Great location, nice big bright space, lovely day..what a great combination of circumstances for a nice lunch in a new place.

That it was empty was the first clue that not everything was up to snuff.

The Hostess asked us how many we were (we were obviously two, and the joint was empty), then showed us to a table. Fine.

The waiter arrived and we ordered a large bottle of sparkling water. Still fine.

The loudspeakers were playing the Rolling Stones, one of my favorite bands. Still fine. No, not fine, not at a volume where it was impossible to understand what my friend across the table was trying to say!

I asked that the volume be turned down. The hostess said she would ask the 'management'. Whereupon, the next track was even louder. When I asked if there was somewhere quieter that we might sit (we were directly under a loudspeaker), she helpfully pointed out that the music was the same volume everywhere in the restaurant.

We paid $6 for our bottle of water and left.

What's the betting on this joint lasting six months?!

- Sean

Sean Dell in Manhattan

What other restaurants have fries like Balthazar?

All too few, sadly.

All McNally's restaurants have good fries, so that means Pastis, Schillers, Pravda and Lucky Strike (although I haven't been there in years). No idea about Morandi because I haven't eaten the fries there yet, and so far, I have no real urge to return.

Petite Abeille, Odeon, Cafe Luxemburg are all similar, and among my current faves. All have outstanding fries. And there are others, but not numerous.

- Sean

Sean Dell in Manhattan

overrated restaurants

Hmm. Mario has this obsession with clams in shells. Describing the pasta ala vongole, he is fond of saying 'it is not about the bits of snot in the shells, it's about the flavor they impart to the pasta'.

My guess is that he figures the liqour released by the clams as they cook on the pasta has the same kind of transcendent effect as it does on pasta.

Myself, I have my doubts, which is why I've never had the pasta with clams on my few trips to Otto, which I agree, is seriously over-rated.

- Sean

Sean Dell in Manhattan

overrated restaurants

That is a perceptive comment, but I think the Main Dining Room is not actually over-rated, because I think this view is shared by most diners.

Which is why the bar-room is so much more popular. Same food, different atmosphere and feeling, and much more fun. It's a pity we don't get to look out on the garden from the bar-room.

- Sean

Sean Dell in Manhattan

overrated restaurants

The heavy booking tells us that a) there is a dearth of good restaurants up this end of town, and b) people follow the New York Times, which gave the place a pretty decent review not long ago. I'm glad about the booking situation - it'll save me from myself!

- Sean

Sean Dell in Manhattan