rieu's Profile
Good Portuguese Restaurants in Paris
Hello every one,
Last year, while in Lisbon, we foolishly let a very endearing platter of cozido get away!!!
Would appreciate your suggestions for a good Portuguese restaurant, besides Vasco da Gama, with good bacalhau dishes, porco alentejana, and, of course, cozido.
Has anyone been to "Chez Rita" ?
Thank you for your help and have a nice XMAS. Ah, what to do with all those extra kilos afterwards?
Game season in Paris
@VivreManger,
For us, the answer is NO Although the service was still the same after the Cousin left, (they kept the same team) the food wasn't as good, and that's why we stopped going there. Would be interested to hear if others have been there lately and what they think about Le Petit Marguery these days.
Game season in Paris
Hello every one and thank you for your posts. Sorry I was unable to reply sooner but life has been quite hectic these days!
@parigi,
No, we never made it to L’ami Jean. I called almost 3 weeks ahead of time and tried to make a reservation for the only week end when both of us are in P together, and could not get a table. I am going to call tomorrow for the 3rd week of November and see what happens. I am glad you enjoyed your “lievre a la royale” there!
BTW, I lucked out on some “cepes” 2 weeks ago. The Chef of our neighbourhood restaurant went on a “mushroom hunt”, and after a very nice poelee de cepes at the restaurant/bistro I managed to buy a kilo of flavourful cepes from him. Must say the fresh French cepes smell and taste wonderful! And Yes, 1 kilo just for the two of us….! On the other hand, the lievre a la royale I had there was rather dry.
@Riefi
Thank you for mentioning “La biche au bois” Some how it slipped off my mind. The last time we went there was like 10 years ago! Shall call and make reservation for the end of next month, but before Xmas as I suspect they may close for Xmas and New year.
We have never been to "La traversiere" so this is a new one on our list then
Thank you all and have a great day.
BTW, went to "Chez Grenouille". Friendly service. The terrines were very good, but the deserts were rather disappointing, and the bottle of wine was too cold. Alas, it only got better by the time it's 1/3 full which is by the time it got to room temperature. Were we drinking too fast? :-)
Some times I don't quite appreciate the habit of putting red wine in the wine cooler and serve it too cool.
Game season in Paris
@Parigi,
Thank you so much for all the info.
Yes, I shall make a reservation at CLAJ and as we have always enjoyed our meal there we shall take what they have, in two weeks time.
Also, on Thursday, if all goes well, I shall have time to "trek" over to the Abbesses/Martyrs markets for the cepes. It's "cross town" for me but I guess it's all worth it!
we still remember a poelee of trompettes la mort years ago from the Daguerre market.
@sunshine842,
Thanks for the tip. Shall take a look at the website.
Now, I have to tend to the cocotte of pig trotters which looks and smell very promising!
Has any one tried the game dishes at "La Grenouille" in the 9th arrondissement?
Game season in Paris
@Delucacheemonger,
I hope they have cepes, goose, and colvert at CLAJ when we go there....!
Shall also call Chez Denise for the cerf then!
Thanks
Game season in Paris
Thank you all for your reply.
Parigi, it's almost 3 PM, PARIS time but looking at all those photos re; L'Ami Jean makes me hungry all over!
Shall call them tomorrow for reservation as we haven't been there for quite a while now.
Too bad we were too "early" in Bordeaux and the Southwest 2 weeks ago, for "cepes".
Any tips for "lievre a la royale" please?
Game season in Paris
It’s now the game season and we would appreciate all helps pointing us to the direction of a good “lievre a la royale”, (it’s good at La Petite Marguery years ago before the Cousin’s brother sold it) and other dishes like deer and wildboar
We are also craving good Cepes sautees, the French ones, not those from les pays de L’EST
Looking forward to your recs.
Thank you!
Best cheap eats Lisbon & Funchal
Hello rebeccayael,
Thank you for your reply and for the recommendation.
Have a great day!
Best cheap eats Lisbon & Funchal
Hello jacionasty and rebeccayael,
Hope you had a good time in Madeira!
Would love it if you would share your good finds on the island
Thank you!
Help with Madeira, please!
spike74 and monchique,
Thanks for your help.
I am hoping the restaurants you recommend are still in business after the latest events!
Any other suggestions from other chowhound members please?
Help with Madeira, please!
Thank you Monchique!
Glad to hear from you! How are you these days?
I shall put "O Jacquet" on the list and should we go there, I shall let you know!
Wish we had one or two more days to spend in Lisbon!
All the best to you!
Help with Madeira, please!
Hello all,
We shall be in Madeira at the beginning of June.
So far, we have found little information on the site and would welcome all information/suggestions regarding restaurants in Madeira, Old Town, City and Lido.
Where can we find Porco Preto in Funchal? (there is a post about Porco Preto but the restaurant is not in Funchal and as of now we are not certain we shall venture much further out)
Where to go to for the best bacalhau dishes, fresh grilled fish and cabrito? Any specialties on the island which I don't know about?
Is every thing open or are there some places/areas which are still closed due to the latest events?
Thank you for your help and suggestions.
Algarve and lisbon trip report with thanks to vinhotinto75 and monchique (long)
Hello sashaz
I was away and so did not see your message until just now.
Hope it's not too late.
The restaurant is "regional ...." some thing. It does start with regional. If you read my exchange with monchique you will find it.
Once you get out of the train station, turn right and keep walking. It will be on the right side, next to some official building, city hall perhaps? Ask the tourist information, they know! It's before you get to the old town.
Have fun. Wish we could go there again.
Likafo Chinese restaurant on Avenue de Choisy- Paris
Well, I am glad you all still find Li Ka Fo good. Could it be it's just a particularly "off day" when we were there?
I just want to specify that we have been going to this restaurant for quite some time now, almost 15 years and we do go there frequently. It was considered one of the best Chinese restaurant in the 13th, even by the Chinese themselves and we do know quite a few in our circle of friends.
We have noticed the changes over the past 2 years, some more subtle than others: and the "ups and downs" which is understandable in this business but never had we had such a bad meal like the last one. So, my review wasn't just a "furious review" of some one who goes there occasionally, and has to rant about a bad meal! Would not have posted the review if I did not have some spoiled meat in my noodle
BTW, the very nice older gentleman is no longer working there.
I guess to each his own! We tried Tricotin about 20 years ago, found it very bad with a "mass market" feel to it, and never went back there!
Likafo Chinese restaurant on Avenue de Choisy- Paris
As I have read so many positive posts about this place, and as we have been going there for so many years now I believe I should mention our latest experience!
We had lunch there on October 1st. It’s almost 1PM, yet the place was empty save for 4 tables. We have noticed that for a while now. The shrimp raviolis were just fair, the broth was tasteless. Worst yet the roast duck in my roast duck noodle was bad, and by that I mean it had bad taste in addition to the fact there’re 7 pieces and 4 of them were just bones and worthless pieces which you would just throw away if you’re serving roast duck! So bad so that I ended up with a stomach ache, had to take some medication, etc. and yet I only ate a piece and a half! When I made a remark to the young waitress that they should be careful about the quality of the food lest they lose more customers, she showed her bad temper by banging the dishes around! No, this is not a new waitress. She has been there for about 3 years now and she knows us as regular customers.
Over the past year we have noticed some changes in Likafo. The staff has dwindled down to only one young lady. The rest are family members of the associate(s). We have not seen one of the associates for a long time now (we go there quite often). Other staff members are gone (laid off?) One of their signature dishes is “steam chicken with sesame and ginger sauce. It no longer is what it used to be. The portion is smaller and so they cut it into very small pieces to fill up the plate. Based on the fact that restaurant is more and more empty I guess other people have figured out its decline before we do!
Algarve and lisbon trip report with thanks to vinhotinto75 and monchique (long)
@vinhotinto75 and monchique,
Hello, and thank you for your suggestions re: our trip to the Algarve and Lisbon.
We ate and drank very well, so much so we did not dare look at the scale when we got back! Matter of fact, we’re still valiantly trying to ignore it, especially that it is now “hunting season” and that means good venison! Yes, yes we do realize most of the venison on offer are farm raised…but that’s another topic.
Re:Algarve:
We got there on Monday 4th, and Tuesday 5th was a holiday. Missed out on Eira do Mel in Vila Obispo as they’re closed. Mar e Vista did not have much of a fish selection due to the holiday. Vila Velha did not open until 6:30PM and so we ended up at Tasca up the hill. Big place with very nice view, good food.
Sao Roque was a waste of time and money. It turned out to be the most expensive meal of the trip, and the “worst”one in terms of quality/price ratio. Only the Sao Roque wine was fine. The headwaiter was full of himself!
Ate at a couple of places in town (Lagos) and they’re very fine.
Gabriell turned us down when we showed up at 2:20PM. Strange for a restaurant which does not open until 1:30PM. We gathered it’s because they did not have that many guests that day. Only one table was finishing up, two guests having coffee. Ended up at the place on the opposite side, on Armoroias (SP?) Had a table on the side of the restaurant which afforded a splendid view of the ocean and the spectacle of the day (huge waves as it’s a very windy and cold day)
Special thanks to you Monchique for the very interesting passarinhos at Rui. We had to ask for it. Very tasty. We also shared a dish of excellent porco preto.
BTW, Praia Figueira is now very accessible. One can drive up to a parking space then walk for 20 minutes to reach the beach.
Evora:
We drove from Lagos to Evora, passed a few restaurants advertising venison, etc. but it’s not lunch time yet. Stumbled upon a very local and good restaurant in a small town about 50 kms from Evora. It’s nice to see how the locals go out on the week end (Saturday)
Had dinner that night at Don Joaquim. As it’s Saturday, it’s full and the turn over’s incredible. Food was fine. Huge portions.
We also had a very nice lunch in Vila Verde, O Ricardo. The restaurant was fully booked by locals, we were lucky we got the last available table. Very nice meal. The housewine is fine too. They make their own vinho tinto. It’s fun to watch the locals at family gatherings on Sunday. Very nice grounds and the garden must be beautiful in the summer.
Lisbon:
We enjoyed good meals and fine wine at Barcabela (nice grilled rabbit and lobster risotto) They are on the “prato do dia” so it’s a matter to be there on the right day. If we were there for a longer period of time, we would have eaten there more often. The grilled fish were also very good.
Assinatura was good, and so was Esquina with huge portions and a very nice waiter.
Senhora Da Mae (Alfama) was a good surprise. At first, quality of service was a bit “shaky” (the wine we ordered was switched to a different one without any explanation at first) but then improved significantly. The Chef even came out to say Hello. As it turned out, he is the new Chef, since last year, the former is now at the restaurant that is part of Alfama Theater (sorry, forget the name) Again, large portions. I had porco pretto with rice which is stuffed with porcini mushroom. It’s lovely. I believe I have never eaten that much rice in my life and enjoying it! The risotto with small squids and squid ink was also very good.
Here are the ones we missed out on.
Via Graca. We were looking for a restaurant which serves lunch, Sunday. Via Graca only opens for dinner, on Sunday!
Kaetano’s. Unable to reach them after having repeatedly tried to call for 2 days, we decided to go over there on Saturday, lunch time, after browsing through the Flea Market. Saw a gentleman who introduced himself as the owner of the property. As he speaks some French, we learned the team (chef, waiter, etc.) had left in September, and that he is looking for a new Chef/Administrator as he put it!
I am sure the former Kaetano’s Chef would turn up some where, some time
O Farro (Cascaigill) was closed for 2 weeks
O Ponte Final. It’s a gorgeous day, and as the restaurant came into view (it’s not even 12:15PM) we had thought we would take THE table of the house, the one that is the furthest out. Little did we know that right that second a large group of youngsters would run down the stairs and took over all the tables that are the closest to the water.
We gave it a pass. Instead of walking back along the river, walk up the stairs (a rather long climb I must say) and you will be rewarded with a sensational view of the river, and Lisbon from higher up. There is a restaurant there, though it appeared closed when we were there. For those who don’t want to climb up, there’s a lift which one can take going down, for a fee. Only 1 or 2 Euros I think. We did not see the lift when we were down at O Ponte Final level.
Ended up at a local restaurant, near the church. Strongly recommended by a gentleman who saw us looking at restaurant menus, a recommendation seconded by his wife and we’re glad we followed their advice. Sign language only, but oh how efficient! Very fresh fish, only locals and good service.
Sintra:
Vinhotinto, special thanks for that one! It’s one of the best meals (if not the best) of the trip! We even considered going back there on our last day for an early lunch before we headed back to Lisbon and the airport, but then I had some last minute shopping to do…!
The big disappointment was “Barracao di Alfama” Based on a post on this forum who claimed to have had the best sardinhas of his entire trip, we went to the place and should have walked out when we saw a large group of tourists and their guide.
Not a single local customer!
It’s the worst sardinhas of our entire trip! Oh well! To each his own
We’re lucky this was the only disappointment of the trip!
This is all that I remember.
All in all we ate and drank well. We have been in Lisbon before, yet it’s still very appealing to us. Of course our feet hurt badly after a week there, but we shall be back!
Again, thank you vinhotinto75 and Monchique.
BTW, vinhotinto, the only big problem we had in Lisbon was with the apartment. Perhaps when we return next I shall contact you for help!
Annecy and Geneva Recs
@Elzoe
Les Cepages is not in Geneva, but in nearby Thoiry (nearby France) and it's always good.
In Annecy I would chose La Ciboulette over L'atelier Gourmand
We have been to La Ciboulette for over 20 years now and have never been disappointed.
We have tried L'Atelier Gourmand a few times when it first opened and was still at the old address and found it "over rated"!
Brasserie de l'Hotel de la Ville in Geneva has changed hands the past few years, and no longer serves "l'araignee" its signature dish.
Annecy is beautiful, enjoy !
Cassoulet suggestions
'L'ecureuil, l'oie et le canard" was a big disapointment the last time we went there!
Just three tables that evening yet it's slow, and the casssoulet was simply bad!
Lisbon, in which neighbourhood should we stay?
@vinhotinto75
With a list like the one I now have thanks to you, Monchique and this board, we certainly shall not go hungry or thirsty!
Just have to watch ourselves and not go overboard....! Luckily we can walk it off in beautiful Lisbon!
It's very likely we shall go back to Portugal to visit Madeira, Porto, the Douro Valley!
Again, many thanks for your help.
Take care.
CT
Lisbon, in which neighbourhood should we stay?
@vinhotinto75
Many thanks to you for your time and effort to help.
I am not very well versed in the wines produced in Portugal. Just have fond memories of some very good wine from the Douro region the last time we were in Lisbon (just a week end)
Let's just say we like full bodied wine, and tend to prefer dry white wine to the sweeter variety; but when it's hot we do enjoy a Vinho Verde (which probably will not be the case in October? high temperatures, I mean)
Restaurants wise, which ones would you recommend in preference to Lisboa A Noite?
About transportation, I looked at the Carris.pt web site. I understand the daily pass is at 3 Euro 75.
Is there a weekly pass?
As I have some time tonight, I am going to read through other posts just to 'wet my appetite"!
Thank you very much for your kind help.
Have a great week end!
PS: vinhotinto75,
I just read your reply to kmt, so now have a list of "upscale restaurants".
Forgot to ask where we can go for good sardines, bacalhau and cabrito, in Lisbon!
Thanks.
Lisbon, in which neighbourhood should we stay?
@monchique
Many thanks for your detailed list, but most of all the time and effort you put into helping others!
Casal garcia, monsaraz and monte velho are easy to find where we live, so I guess we shall try other wines. I definitely shall try the Dry White Port
About the location, I guess they meant 8 minutes by car then! :)
weather wise, I heard it's getting cooler and it has been raining?
Again, thank you very much.
Shall write a report when we get back!
Take care.
Lisbon, in which neighbourhood should we stay?
@vinhotinto75,
About Lisboa A Noite, I just read your "correspondence" with willowan in May 2010, so please disregard that question!
Although you had explained the different wines/regions, I still would appreciate some more specific recs please i.e. names, vineyards, etc.
Many thanks!
Lisbon, in which neighbourhood should we stay?
@vinhotinto75
Many thanks for your help! If we do go by train, then oporquinho it will be!
I read a post inquiring about Paul Laureano wine.
Sounds like a good wine to try.
Where can we buy it? Also, what are your recs re:portugal wine, please.
What do you think of Lisboa A Noite. I did a search and found mixed reviews!
I shall have to find time to finish reading your links re:neigbourhood and food.
Lisbon, in which neighbourhood should we stay?
@monchique,
thank you for the suggestions. Shall definitely go to Aljezur as suggested.
How far is Meia da Praia really is from Lagos town then? their advert says 8 minutes to the marina, 15 minutes to town!
We hesitated between 3 days in Tavira and 3 days in Lagos as we wanted to avoid Albufeira. Thought Lagos is a nice place....!
Also, please advise about Tavira and Rio Formosa. How is it at the beginning of October, the national park I mean? Could we visit both places and Faro in one day or would be it rushing it. For October is it still worth the effort to take the ferry to Tavira's beach just for a walk?
Thank you in advance for your help.
PS: Where can we buy good wine in Algarve and by that I mean Faro, Albufeira or Lagos? Any recs, please! I gather Albufeira offers the biggest choice of shops/supermarkets?
Lisbon, in which neighbourhood should we stay?
@monchique,
So nice to hear from you as, per vinhotinto's suggestions, I have been reading your posts re"Algarve" and have already planned to visit all the restaurants you recommended. We are inclined to try Gabriel although that means a late arrival in Evora (?)
Lagos: 5 days. We shall be in the Meia praia area, Albardeira I believe. Hope it's not too far to walk to town.
Sagres: yes, definitely as we would like to go to Cabo St Vicente too. Should we have lunch at Mar a Vista in Sagres or should we go to Cabo St Vicente. Any good restaurant there?
How far is Gabriel from Lagos? Am just wondering perhaps we could plan to go there one day and go to Vale Figueira after lunch?
Also, I am looking for a romantic place for lunch or dinner around Lagos.
Any recs. please?
We are planning on going to Coimbra by train from Lisbon. Is Mealhalda accessible by cars only?
Overall, it does not have to be fancy. We have got plenty of "fancy" over here in Paris, and that does not always mean "good" .We are looking for "authentic" (well as much as it's possible), traditional fares
Thank you for your help
Have a great day!
Lisbon, in which neighbourhood should we stay?
vinhotinto75,
I just read the Thank you message that Caroline sent you.
I took a look at their website, and we shall definitely try Assinatura!
Thank you for your suggestions re:Leitao
Shall read the archives for Evora, and Coimbra as well as your other recs for Lisboa.
Thanks again for your generous offer to help.
Shall get back to you with more questions.
Lisbon, in which neighbourhood should we stay?
Hello vinhotinto,
I am very pleased to report that we have found an accommodation in the Principe Real area. We like that part of Lisboa, and as we have already stayed there, this should make things easier, even though I would not mind trying Sao Bento or Lapa!
Re: O Filho do Menino Julio dos Caracois, do you still recommend it for Bacalhau or cabrito?
Also, where can we try/find good Leitao, please.
When I have more time this evening I shall go back to the links you posted re:neighbourhoods and restaurants
I would appreciate any recs in the Algarve, we are going to Lagos, Evora, Sintra and Coimbra.
Thank you very much for your help. I am glad I saw your posts otherwise we would have chose the Anjos area!
Have a great day
Lisbon, in which neighbourhood should we stay?
Hello vinhotinto,
Many thanks for your help.
I am looking at other accommodations n ow and shall get back with you as soon as I have them narrowed down.
I guess Baixa and Rossio would be too noisy, and Parque Nar... too far away from the centre?
BTW, I guess it's no longer the season for caracois?
have a great day!
Lisbon, in which neighbourhood should we stay?
Calling to Vinhotinto, tjdnewyork and other chowhound members,
I have been reading your post re: neighbourhood and have a few questions, please. I realized this is not purely about food/restaurants but it is related...!
Vinhotinto, you said in your June 12th post there are some pockets along Anjos that should be avoided. We are looking at two places, one on Francisco Sanches, the other on Rua da Penha de Franca.
Of the two, which one is better is terms of neighbourhood, accessibility to buses, metros, and good restaurants and shops?
We stayed in Principe real last time we were in Lisbon for a long week end, and just love that neighbourhood!
tjdnewyork, you mentioned having found some thing in Graca. I googled travessa da arochella but could not find any thing.
Would you please help with the apartment web site?
All other suggestions welcome!
thank you all
Rieu
"caracoles" in Madrid
Thank you JuanDoe and butterfly for your reply.
Any one else, please?
