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Julian Teoh's Profile

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Colmar restaurant recommendations

Aux Trois Poissons in Le Petit Venise is very good on both, Chez Hansi for food but less so on wine. L'Epicurien and Rendezvous de Chasse were recommended to me by some winemakers but I cannot offer a personal view on them.

I found it quite easy to book a taxi to get to the surrounding villages (which do have some excellent food), so please do not restrict yourself to the town.

On a side note, Bigos' recommendation of Atelier du Peintre is an interesting one - its chef Loic Lefebvre previously appeared on Ramsay's Kitchen Nightmares (UK version) and was aiming for a Michelin star at his then-restaurant in Inverness, Scotland. Very good to see that he has his star now!

Jun 29, 2014
Julian Teoh in France

These guys had good taste

Only the 2006, ChefJune, no big loss ;)

Jun 23, 2014
Julian Teoh in Wine

In and around Chablis, late April 2014: L'Hostellerie des Clos, Le Bistrot des Grands Crus, and Signé Chablis

Agreed with DaTulip and Jake Dear below, but to avoid clouding the discussion with the Clos issue, examples also exist of a non-clos lieu-dit being named on the label, e.g. Armand Hurst's Grand Cru Brand, Schneckelsbourg.

What I don't want to do is engage in a discussion about whether the Clos Ste Hune was ever actually walled ;)

May 25, 2014
Julian Teoh in France

In and around Chablis, late April 2014: L'Hostellerie des Clos, Le Bistrot des Grands Crus, and Signé Chablis

But that's not just a Burgundian phenomenon, though, is it? A couple of Alsatian examples spring immediately to mind: in the Rangen, you have lieux-dits Clos St Urbain and Clos St Theobald, and Clos St Imer in the Goldert.

I am no historian, but I suspect this is what happens when you try to impose a relatively recent classification scale onto a naming system which has existed for far longer, and an uneasy accommodation results.

May 25, 2014
Julian Teoh in France

A Long Overdue Report December 11-25th - Paris/Alsace

Few things, but none better than a beautiful foie gras!

May 18, 2014
Julian Teoh in France

A week at the Shangri-la Hotel. .

Great post, Phil, captured my thoughts far more eloquently that I could have done.

Because labour is quite cheap and widely available in Asia, I think Cantonese food (thinking of Dim Sum as a particular case in point) is an absolute bargain for the quality of craftsmanship and ingredient. Ironically, that introduces some distortion on how the pricing is perceived outside of Asia.

And I am just as guilty as a victim of that distortion. I was in Paris when Shang Palace first opened its doors, and when I learned that the banquet menu was in the order of 90+ euros a head, my first reaction was "forget it". But this is because excellent Cantonese food is available far cheaper elsewhere, even at the "haute cuisine" level. I'm here in Singapore and I would be hard-pressed to spend that much on a Cantonese meal unless I went crazy on sharks' fins, abalone and the like.

That said, I don't think you and Ptipois' views are mutually exclusive. While I enjoy birds' nest and wok-fried lobster just as much as the next person, this is also the food of my childhood so I very much empathise with her views also.

May 09, 2014
Julian Teoh in France

Singapore Sichuan and other Chinese restaurant choices.

Silk Road at the Amara is an excellent alternative for Szechuan. Its dan dan noodles, tossed and pulled into shape by chefs working behind a glass-panelled kitchen, are genuinely excellent.

May 06, 2014
Julian Teoh in China & Southeast Asia

First Time Visit From SF to Hong Kong & Singapore

Agreed. I prefer the Million Dollar Cocktail myself, if we are talking about classic Singaporean concoctions. The Long Bar serves it also, and the version I had 5 years ago wasn't too bad.

May 05, 2014
Julian Teoh in China & Southeast Asia

A Long Overdue Report December 11-25th - Paris/Alsace

Sarment d'Or is excellent. They also do a Bib Gourmand prix fixe lunch, which is an excellent option for the Riquewihr daytrippers (as I was a couple of years ago). I'm not sure what style your foie gras entree was, but we had it as a terrine and it was very good with a glass of Schoenenbourg Riesling.

Apr 26, 2014
Julian Teoh in France

Three days of eating in Singapore

Gastrobuck, I'm not sure what you mean when you say the "Haikanese" food culture has undoubtedly affected Indonesia and Malaysia.

Being of Malaysian origin myself and still a regular visitor to Malaysia, I can tell you now that Malaysians in general do not have a particularly high opinion of Singaporean cuisine and often take pains to distance themselves from it when discussing Malaysian food with foreigners.

Yes, Malaysia and Singapore share common influences and dishes, but that is due to their common history (indigenous Malay Muslim population, British colonisation, Chinese immigration), trade routes, available produce and racial mixes, not Singaporean influence.

Apr 26, 2014
Julian Teoh in China & Southeast Asia

Singapore - where to get an apartment, food being #1 priority?

250 square feet? Can that even be legally called an apartment?

The city-ish and trendy areas you are looking at are quite pricey, Tiong Bahru being a particular case in point. If you look more on the fringes (Toa Payoh and Balestier, for example), you can get a 700+ square foot studio for under $3k (with a pool, gym and other condominium accoutrements).

Apr 21, 2014
Julian Teoh in China & Southeast Asia

Singapore - where to get an apartment, food being #1 priority?

I would look at the Balestier area, where I used to live. On the Whampoa end, you have some decent hawkers and a good wet market, and Balestier Road itself is full of excellent eating options (Boon Tong Kee chicken rice, Cafe de HK, Founders' bak kut teh, Tandoori Corner, even a 24 hour prata joint in Fayidha's!).

It is also walking distance to Little India, and a short bus trip to Geylang, where more excellent food awaits.

Transport-wise, the 145 plies Balestier Road with some regularity, and it's a 10-minute ride to Lavender MRT on the green line.

Apr 16, 2014
Julian Teoh in China & Southeast Asia

Bordeaux 2013: Chateaux forced to chaptalise in toughest vintage for years

But yields were very low for 2013 (i.e. we had to dump most of the rubbish crop just to obtain something vaguely drinkable), and it is very approachable in its youth (i.e. not built to last) while you wait for your 2005s and 2008s to emerge (if they ever do...)

I received the above spiel from a merchant yesterday. Cheeky buggers - there's always a way to spin it!

Apr 08, 2014
Julian Teoh in Wine

Singapore - Joel Robuchon Restaurant, Sentosa

No, as I said, I am not surprised either, but it is an internal business matter and discretion appears to be lacking amongst some of the staff.

Mar 12, 2014
Julian Teoh in China & Southeast Asia

Singapore - Joel Robuchon Restaurant, Sentosa

Thank you for the detailed review, BPS, and it is nice to see that they are still producing excellent food today.

While it is probably no surprise that they are losing money (not as a reflection on their quality but more that these big names are often trotted out as loss leaders), I was surprised to read that they readily admitted that fact to a guest!

Mar 12, 2014
Julian Teoh in China & Southeast Asia

Gunther's Restaurant

I think Barbot is a genius. I haven't tried Colagreco.

Comparing your photos, I can't see how Gunther's portion is larger than Les Amis or the others. It may have more surface area, but it looks as thin as a slice of ham in the photos. The others look thicker, which would also help the diner appreciate the texture of the meat.

As to what I think...quality of ingredients, creativity (not critical but this is an absolute positive now at Les Amis and Jaan) and a distinct lack of generosity (part of which is portion size) are good places to start.

Feb 27, 2014
Julian Teoh in China & Southeast Asia

Gunther's Restaurant

I can't agree with you there, BPS. For me, Gunther's is simply not batting in the same league as Les Amis (or Jaan, for that matter).

There seems to be a bit of "nickel-and-diming" going on, judging from your photos. If someone served me a sliver of wagyu like I see in your photo, I would have asked them if they were taking the piss. That's not a main course-sized serve, even in a degustation. That's a topping for my sandwich.

That said, I know you are partial to Passard's cooking style, so à chacun son goût.

Feb 25, 2014
Julian Teoh in China & Southeast Asia

2014 Michelin

Indeed, congratulations, couldn't happen to a nicer guy and a more talented cook.

Feb 24, 2014
Julian Teoh in France

Alsace: the new generation

It was the "old Alsace" that made me fall in love with their wines; more power to it!

Feb 20, 2014
Julian Teoh in Wine
1

Alsace: the new generation

I'm not either, Jason. I was just trying to say that I didn't think that Pfister was one of the complantation culprits...

I see an irony that it is going to get even more confusing to sell Alsace wine if the new trend is to blend. We generally had a grasp that PG and Gewurz would tend more to off-dryness than a Riesling, but who knows with blends, unless winemakers adopt a standardised measure of palate sweetness ad indicate it on the label?

Feb 20, 2014
Julian Teoh in Wine

Alsace: the new generation

But Deiss cops it for harvesting all varieties at the same time (implicit in this is obviously that the fruit is at different levels of ripeness), blending the must, etc. I didn't get the impression from the article that Pfister was doing that.

I just got the impression that she wanted to do a Gentil-style blend, which is all well and good (I like Hugel's version), but hardly rebellious.

Feb 19, 2014
Julian Teoh in Wine

Les Amis, Singapore

Nice report, Bu Pun Su, and glad you found the time to visit Les Amis with the new team in charge.

How much are they charging for the black truffle menu at dinner?

Feb 19, 2014
Julian Teoh in China & Southeast Asia

Alsace: the new generation

I don't think there is anything rebellious in selling blends, is there? Edelzwicker, Gentil and the like are traditional blends that are many years old. Deiss attracts cynicism because he practices complantation; I'm not sure Pfister is doing the same (although please correct me if I'm wrong).

Completely agree with your post below re the quality of Weinbach, although I am not sure if Colette is in fact still running the show? There is a new generation coming up in the family, and I think it is Catherine's son Theo who is now in charge of the vineyards.

Feb 19, 2014
Julian Teoh in Wine
1

David Thompson coming to Singapore

The tasting menu at Guy Savoy has been $290++ for a while now. I think at that price, it overdelivered in terms of food and service, and certainly outclasses a lot of other restaurants in the same class. The wine list was undoubtedly a monumental rip-off, but it otherwise provided a top-notch experience.

Personally, I will be extremely sad to see it go. I like David Thompson's food, but I am saddened to see that there is declining demand and/or appreciation for higher-end dining (Santi disappeared and was replaced by a relatively casual Northern Chinese restaurant). Some people call it a return to authenticity sans frills, but I am not sure I share the same optimism.

Jan 23, 2014
Julian Teoh in China & Southeast Asia

Kurniawan trial: Defence witness judges majority of trial exhibits fakes

I still get emails regularly from a few dealers in HK advertising old vintages of Leroy and DRC. Maybe the bottles are being continuously flipped, but the recurring volumes of these so-called "rare" bottles worry me. Even if I could afford them, I would think thrice before pulling the trigger.

Dec 18, 2013
Julian Teoh in Wine

Aziamendi [Phuket]

Bully for you, Joe :p

I was meant to be there also but unfortunately had to pull out at the last minute. Anything you can report briefly without breaching your retainer with the magazine?

Dec 11, 2013
Julian Teoh in China & Southeast Asia

What is the best 2 star restaurant in Paris?

Oh no, not at all, to the contrary, I was very surprised that out of the not many reviews available on Louis XIII, one was so virulently and atypically negative. The menu certainly reads very well and like I said, it is definitely on my list for next time.

Nov 30, 2013
Julian Teoh in France

Canadian firm buys Washington vineyard land for US$16m

Cue the uproar...

Oh wait, they are not Chinese. Just move on, nothing to see here, folks...

Nov 29, 2013
Julian Teoh in Wine

What is the best 2 star restaurant in Paris?

It is still Manuel Martinez cooking there, no?

Nov 29, 2013
Julian Teoh in France

What is the best 2 star restaurant in Paris?

I remember reading a Gastroville review of Le Relais Louis XIII a few years back, which trashed it in the most embarrassing manner possible.

I have been intrigued by it ever since (and will probably visit the next time I'm in Paris)!!!

Nov 28, 2013
Julian Teoh in France