Parigi's Profile

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First Paris trip for major LA food lovers

I'm thoroughly confused by the Macgirl and the Macdude.

about 1 hour ago
Parigi in France

Which is more reliable: Michelin vs. San Pellegrino's Best Restaurants List

"the absurdity of the idea that one can accurately rank restaurants from 1-50 (perhaps as absurd as awarding wines scores out of a 100?) is still a huge part of its appeal. "
It is a huge part of its turn-off.

about 10 hours ago
Parigi in France

Sunday dinner in Paris for under 50Euros in 1,4,5,6e?

At an intimidating 101-lb, I walk home often at night, sometimes alone, among the 9th, 10th, 18th, with no problem. Parn is soooo right. The more central and more touristy the area, the more crime. If you survive the Louvre and Notre Dame and, god fodbid, the trashy Champs, you have survived the walk on the Paris wild side.

1 day ago
Parigi in France

Ferme Auberge Le Castelas, Sivergues, France-Updated Info?

Boredough, you are the hound to end all hounds.

Aug 25, 2014
Parigi in France
2

Irouleguy Basque Wine Region worth visiting?

I have visited the Irouléguy vineyards. Indeed they are all small, in a very small area. The NYT link does not work, but I remember that it talks about the Ilaria vineyard, no ? My fave is the nearby Brana. But that whole area is of breathtaking beauty. Even if the wine were crappy, - and they are not, - the area is worth a visit.
If you were serious about visiting and tasting, it is best to call ahead. The small vineyards usually do not maintain any kind of regular visits. But if you let them know you are coming, they are very welcoming.

Aug 25, 2014
Parigi in France

Trip Report, May 10 - 17 (Fish, Le Villaret, Chez Casimir, A La Biche au Bois, Other)

Thank you so much for reporting back. Very valuable info. Updates like yours keep this board going. Merci encore. :)

Aug 23, 2014
Parigi in France

Roscoff & Brest in August

You're a saint for reporting back (and for traveling with 5 sullen teenagers). Merci.

Aug 20, 2014
Parigi in France

Are thin, tough, gristly steaks the norm in France?

Hey, Sistah !
Resurrecting this thread. Where is this village in the Bearn ? Do you remember the name of the restaurant ? We are visiting Saliès de Béarn and Sauveterre de Béarn in a few weeks.
Was it this place ?
"Navarrenx, 13e for soup (the specialty, Garbure) and a decent steak (blond de béarn) frites. "

Aug 19, 2014
Parigi in France

Specialties from the Vaucluse (Avignon) part of Provence?

But did you have the one in Villefranche ?

Aug 18, 2014
Parigi in France

Specialties from the Vaucluse (Avignon) part of Provence?

I don't think there are any rules.
But I always find regrettable if a restaurant does not make good use of local ingredients. I have that problem with Sa.Ka.Na.
Likewise, lots of places now sell some kind of Tielle, but I have not tasted any that is 1/10th as good as the Tielle from Paradiso in Sète.
Some dishes eare more geo-dependent than others. Some dishes are hardly geo-dependent at all.

Aug 18, 2014
Parigi in France

Paris to St. Sebastian through the Basque

Olhabidea is a lovely sprawling big house - it's a farm-b&b-restaurant - with a large garden, including a potager whose vegetables are served in the restaurant. It has only 5 rooms, all very nice.
I always prefer to rent a house with a kitchen, and will do so this September, in the village of Sare. I will gladly share the link to that house rental if you let me know your email address.

Aug 18, 2014
Parigi in France

Paris to St. Sebastian through the Basque

"Any tips on hiking areas? villages in the mountains with hiking trails,"

I walk, I don't hike, sorriest.
Two Pyreneees areas have beautiful villages and (seem to) have lots of hiking trails around:
- the village of Sare and its surrounding area
- the Aldudes valley, which, food-wise, all the way down to Spanish Navarra, is well known for its charcuterie production.

"accommodation,"

The mods have a shit fit if we get into hiking and accommodation. I can recommend the ferme-auberge Olhabidea outside Sare, which has great food, as I recommended above.

"places to eat?"

Uh, am I hallucinating? Didn't I just do that in the last reply ?

Aug 18, 2014
Parigi in France

Paris to St. Sebastian through the Basque

Instead of doing the long drive from north to south of France, you can take the high speed train from Paris to Biarritz or St Jean de Luz, then rent a car.

With 10 days, I would make a base out of Ciboure, from which to explore coast and that part of the Pyrenees (you are so close to the border that this exploration of the Pyrenees will take you crossing and recrossing the borders all the time).
Then 3 days based in San Sebastian, including a day trip to Bilbao.

You can look up reports by Laidback and Phild, with lots of great recommendations on that very itinerary.

My fave restaurnats there are:
- Olhabidea outside Sare (one of my fave restos in the world)
- Chez Mattin in Ciboure
- Kaiku in St Jean de Luz
- Arcé in the breathtaking Aldudes valley
- Chez Margot on the Socoa beach in Ciboure, for the nice casual eats and a great view.
Must reserve.

Aug 18, 2014
Parigi in France

Place Des Vosges Area Recs

Yes you're right. I'm in a post-weekend coma this morning.

Aug 18, 2014
Parigi in France

Specialties from the Vaucluse (Avignon) part of Provence?

I highly recommend the Bourride over the Bouillabaisse. Usually if you find one you can find the other. Chez Fonfon, yes !

Aug 18, 2014
Parigi in France

Specialties from the Vaucluse (Avignon) part of Provence?

No one has mentioned the Sacristain ?
Do try a sacristain in the morning, a twisted pastry, a treat with one's morning coffee, that I find in the boulangeries in Provence.

Aug 18, 2014
Parigi in France
2

Place Des Vosges Area Recs

Allow me to translate just one paragraph from Rio's fascinating and informative article, which confirms the following story that has been circulating in the Jeune Rue rumor mill in the past few months:

" When in December 2012 Alexandre Cammas, founder of the Fooding guide, for ethical reasons, refused the businessman's lunch invitation, the latter was miffed. Cammas explains: "Naudon wrote to ask me to list his restaurant in the Fooding guide. Of course I refused, but he insisted. He also wanted to have his future acquisitions listed int he guide." As a joke, Cammas then suggested to Naudon to acquire Fooding, since he wanted to manage it." In an email reply, Naudon announced that his lawyer would contact him to obtain the necessary papers for a buyout."

For this story alone, I do not want to patronize any business run by Naudon and would not advise anyone to patronize them or do business with him.

Aug 18, 2014
Parigi in France

Specialties from the Vaucluse (Avignon) part of Provence?

"anchoïade"
Love it, especially the kind made by farms. Great as a raw veggie dip or as marinade (with rosemary) for lamb.

Aug 17, 2014
Parigi in France

Specialties from the Vaucluse (Avignon) part of Provence?

What are restaurant mats ?

Do you mean easy quick cooking or quick meals ?
Provence is not into quickie meals ? For example, at Bartavelle, everyone's fave, be prepared to wait.

Nice does have some interesting street food for you, besides Pan Bagnat, for which you can look up Jock's recommendation for a place in nearby Villefranche sur mer.
Also, try socca in Nice. My fave socca place used to be Chez René in the old town. Now I swear by Da Pipo in the lovely area of the old port. It is ridiculously popular. It opens in the evening at 5pm. At 5:05pm the place is full.

That period is game season. It is also season for mushrooms. You see easily a dozen types in the mushroom stalls in the markets. One easy thing to do is to make a mushroom omelette with some of those mushrooms and farm-fresh eggs.
Ditto grapes, especially muscat grapes and fresh figs, all in season and splendid.

Back to the Vaucluse, in the village of Bonnieux, the butcher has very good saucisse aux herbes that is easly grilled or barbecued. The only problem is that the excellent butcher likes to take a good chunk of September off for holiday.
Nearby in Coustellet, the maison Gouin has a great butcher as well as very good cooked dishes, in case you feel lazy and not feel like cooking, or on your way to a picnic and want a one-stop picnic food supply.

That area is much written about, I mean much much written about. For restaurant recommendations, you can easily look up the many reviews, especially those by Jake Dear and Kurtis.
Ditto market days for various markets. I highly recommend the market in Coustellet. It is not photogenic like Ile sur la Sorgue or Vaison la Romaine, but its produce is excellent, much better than those two.
Here is a market day schedule for that area:
http://www.luberonweb.com/Marches-Pro...

Aug 16, 2014
Parigi in France

Table etiquettes in France - anything to watch out for those from New Zealand?

You can dine as early at 7:30pm. It is considered early-bird geezer hour. Pourquoi pas ? :)
At le Bat, - my fave cantine these days, - you can even eat at 7pm at an empty restaurant, and take advantage of the "Happy Tapas hours" prices.

All over Paris, you can always pop into a pastry shop and have a pastry if you need refueling.

Aug 15, 2014
Parigi in France

7 nights in Paris with adult sons

This local is a walker too. Often after a dinner even in the left back we walk home to rue des Martyrs.

Aug 15, 2014
Parigi in France

Table etiquettes in France - anything to watch out for those from New Zealand?

Table servie always for restaurants.
Counter orderng in some cafés, only if the waiteris overstretched.
You pay at the table.

The information about meal time is very precious.
On another thread,you mention you are of Asian origin. Asians (like me) come from a culture that has meals around the clock and has a flourishing street food culture. In France, there are two main meals and not much snacking in between .

Do bear in mind: lunch time is 12:30 to about 2:15pm (last order). Dinner time is 7:30pm to about 10:15pm (last order).

There are brasseries with round-the-clock service and less good food.

Aug 15, 2014
Parigi in France
1

Beaunne/Paris (with kids) Trip report

In that case the tea would come in a pot and cup, not in individual cup servings.
And you would be asked what kind of green tea you want, and not be served a generic green.
Imagine being served a "generic" French cheese for CHEESE.

Aug 14, 2014
Parigi in France
1

Beaunne/Paris (with kids) Trip report

That tea issue does sound so petty. The AT staff could/should have advised you better, such as suggesting and offering a pot, instead of giving you 4 cups of tea that they knew would soon become excessively bitter.
A defense that is not one: In restaurants in France, you order tea only after you have finished dessert, in the very end, to wash down allthe grease, and therefore it comes in individual cups.
Still, a good restaurant could/should have advised you better.

Aug 14, 2014
Parigi in France

Beaunne/Paris (with kids) Trip report

Great enjoyable read. We want more !

Aug 14, 2014
Parigi in France

BAT described, please

See my stereotypical, red-neck categorization above.
(3rd time trying to post this.)

Aug 14, 2014
Parigi in France

BAT described, please

It has stopped the tapas. Will resume them on the 25th.
If the pintade-potatoes I had 2 nights ago were not French, like beret-topped, pastis-guzzling French, I'm both the pope and the Last Empress.

Aug 14, 2014
Parigi in France

BAT described, please

"The roasted pintade (we went with the cuisse) with carrot and potato was well-cooked, though the skin was flabby instead of crispy."
We were very happy to get a very tasty and perfectly crispy-skin pintade. Skin accounts for 90% of my poultry enjoyment.
And I who was never a huge fan of potatoes did not want those roast potatoes ever to end, and I was picking them from my left and my right neighbors.

Aug 14, 2014
Parigi in France

Sunday lunch/dinner in Dijon/Beaune

Le Montrachet
Auprès Du Clocher

Quite good. But not necessarily less expensive than those that you find too high-end. May we ask your budget ?

Aug 13, 2014
Parigi in France

Sunday lunch/dinner in Dijon/Beaune

Near Beaune in the wine-growing village of Nolay is a nice, down-home farm-inn (ferme-auberge) called Chaume de Buis. As the restaurant is a side-business of the farm, it is very casual and nice and inexpensive. Must reserve.
http://www.nolay.com/xmedia/popup/cha...

Burgundy cuisine is very rich. I can never have two restaurant meals a day. It simply is not enjoyable. Are you sure you want to do that ?
Besides, Sunday night both Dijon and Beaune are dead.

Aug 13, 2014
Parigi in France