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danlind3's Profile

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Crocs

How do those in the know compare open backs vs. closed backs in a clog? Do the open backs stay on in a quick danger avoidance maneuver? I don't suppose there are many threats to the back of the foot, but maybe if someone else spills?? (but that would be very rare for me). What else to consider in buying shoes for the kitchen?

Here are some examples of closed and open Danskos: http://www.culinaryclassics.com/dansk...

Apr 08, 2014
danlind3 in Cookware

Can I love this knife?

I don't know the make/s of your other knives, but Wusthof is solid. Sharpen it (or get it sharpened), and it should serve you well. You will come to like the 10" I predict. I'd say lucky you, plus the emo connection. Enjoy!

Mar 20, 2014
danlind3 in Cookware

overwhelmed All-Clad

I pretty much agree w/ Kaleo, but I am not familiar with a pressure cooker, but the big normal stock pot will be great for pasta, etc. Not sure what the pressure cooker would add (besides speed) or what things it couldn't do compared to a normal big stock pot.

I'd add or substitute a 12" fry pan. Size is great as one of the key things is to keep food spaced out. I don't use my small fry pans as much as I thought I would.

BUT, for eggs, I'd also add a thick but otherwise cheap non-stick small fry pan. Not worth getting AC for this, as non stick always wears out, even if treated well. But for the rest of your collection, stainless topped (MC2) or fully clad AC should last a lifetime.

Here's what Kaleo said:

1. A large (11-12" diameter) straightwall saute with cover.
2. Large (10") and smaller (8") frypans.
3. A larger (say 3Q) and a smaller (say 1.5Q) saucepans or sauciers with covers.
4. A medium size (say 5-6Q) oven with cover.
5. An 8-12Q stockpot OR pressure cooker.

Personally, I use these a lot:
- 3-4 quart sauté pan (also good for making wet things too)
- 12" fry pan
- small non-stick fry (egg) pan
- small sauce pan (1.5-2 qts) for heating soups, etc. If a saucier, then even better b/c easier to make bernaise, etc.
- larger sauce pan (3-4 qts) for soups, stews, etc
- 6-8 qt stock pot, mostly for pasta. Sometimes for making stock.

Search the forums to see how the different AC lines compare. From my read, MC2 offers good bang for the buck and indeed maybe about the best due to the conductivity and evenness of thick aluminum, but will get scuffed. If going for individual pieces, you may wish to diversify brands too. As mentioned, for the non-stick, a mid range thick but cheaper pan may be the right thing, say Calphalon or Cuisinart. But the saucier, it would be great if that were thick copper, b/c you want responsiveness for delicate sauces. Etc.

Mar 20, 2014
danlind3 in Cookware

tri-ply vs copper core - worth the extra$?

Hi Kaleo,

Might you know the thickness of the other layers in CC? That would be much appreciated!

Dan

Mar 17, 2014
danlind3 in Cookware

Another set of sci-tech focused links on choosing cookware, heat, metals, All Clad, etc.: Looks v. worthy to me.

And here's a neat link on how to use flour to test for hot spots vs eveness in heat distribution. In this case, testing cast iron vs. All Clad: http://www.cookingissues.com/2010/02/16/heavy-metal-the-science-of-cast-iron-cooking/

BTW, the above link mentions many brands by name. For example, this sub link on evenness of heat on the cooking surface, mentions Demeyere, Tramontina, Emeril, Lodge, Cuisinart, etc. http://www.centurylife.org/2013/10/23...

Very cool table.

Mar 11, 2014
danlind3 in Cookware

Is there a Worthy Professional Blender That's Not the Vita-Mix?

Quick update: The new Vitamixes are quite a bit shorter, by about 4 or so inches, and will fit under most cabinets. See esp the professional series 300 and 750. https://secure.vitamix.com/Profession...

Mar 11, 2014
danlind3 in Cookware

Another set of sci-tech focused links on choosing cookware, heat, metals, All Clad, etc.: Looks v. worthy to me.

Dear All,

Often I've seen on Chow the EG gullet link to understanding cookware:
http://forums.egullet.org/topic/25717-understanding-stovetop-cookware/

However, I just came across this, and the associated links near the top: http://www.centurylife.org/how-to-choose-cookware/

This also appears to be a very thorough and knowledgeable set of pages on the different metals, rivets vs. welds, heat transfer, etc. There is a super long page on All Clad history and its different lines, too:

http://www.centurylife.org/2013/11/09...

I'm sure many points are debatable, but this sure looks good to me.

Have fun!

Mar 09, 2014
danlind3 in Cookware

Clad-what's the big whoop?

Here's some interesting insight on all this:

" Demeyere matches function to construction method. For instance, the frying pans and conical saucepans are clad because they are designed to reduce moisture and use the entire surface of the pan to cook the food. The saute pans, casseroles and straight sided saucepans are made with a copper disk bottom, because these are intended to have extremely even heat and preserve moisture." http://www.vodkitchen.com/demeyere-co...

If true, this means that the thin straight sides do indeed act to cool, and that a thicker side does indeed carry heat up and will help heat the interior.

But.... this also means that one wants to kep in moisture when sautéing. Sure I use a sauté pan for many things, but if the function is sauté, then I want to brown and sear things. Which means less moisture. So if this is true, Demeyere or others should offer cladded AND uncladded sauté pans, because that would be true to the mission of design following function. And as sauté pans can be used to braise or sear, that would dictate two designs... Thoughts anyone?

Mar 05, 2014
danlind3 in Cookware

Clad-what's the big whoop?

Here, Demeyere says that the silver layer helps "connect" the copper with the surround layers, from 3:01. So is this a point about temperature ala the thermal grease point. OR is it a point about metallurgy?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GcfbwX...

Note too that he addresses bringing up thicker layers up the sidewalls starting at 2:14, saying that that would make the cookware into radiators. Which is the issue of debate in various places here.

Mar 04, 2014
danlind3 in Cookware

Clad-what's the big whoop?

Kaleo,

My gut tells me you are right on the points about the second and third paras.. Which interestingly makes the Demeyere philosophy on sauté pans (and others where they don't bring the cladding up) wrong. They take great pride is fashioning cookware to purpose, but if I'm sautéing, why not have the side walls as hot as possible? I see your logic, but not their's - unless their real issue is cost. They could keep copper on the bottom, then run thick aluminum up the sides, for best of all worlds. Why would I want my food hitting cooler surfaces on the sides as I move it around?

One counterargument might be that even a thick side will only bring heat up only so high. But even then, one would want to insulate the higher parts of the side walls to keep the heat in. Where is any discussion of how high the burner heat may go w/any given material, or of intentionally insulating?

As to the fourth para points, you made me think of grilling/bbq. It is often very helpful to have a hot side and a warmer side. You can do a searing, then go low and slow for the cooking, which might be a fun way to think of a super large skillet on a small hob. Or, a cook might not be using uniformly sized pieces, so an even cooking surface would result in uneven results....

Mar 04, 2014
danlind3 in Cookware

Seconds "Sale" at Falk USA

Hi Mikie,

Thanks for the heads up. My new bernaise pan is on the way.

Cheers, D

Mar 04, 2014
danlind3 in Cookware

Tool identification

Obviously, it shapes meat for half-sliders.

Or for stuffing tacos.

I don't have a clue, but I'm looking forward to a full report. What if it's not for the kitchen? We could be scrod!

Feb 25, 2014
danlind3 in Cookware

pan for infrequent use

Wipe and heat for sure, then I'd add: wipe a bit of veg oil all over the hot pan, while still on the heat. Let it stay hot for a few mins. Wipe off excess oil - but some will remain as seasoning. Let cool. Store. Less chance of rust, plus a bit more seasoned. At least that is what I do ; ) To all: Let me know if this is off base...

Feb 20, 2014
danlind3 in Cookware

Help Seasoning De Buyer Mineral Fry Pans

I wouldn't just wipe them down, b/c that could still leave water (from the food) in the pan. At a minimum, wipe them then heat to high on the stove to burn off all liquid.

What I do for these pans, is wash without soap. Then dry on stove with high heat. Then wipe with beg oil all over, while still on high heat. Then keep on high heat for a few more mins. then turn off heat and wipe away any excess oil. Cool, then put away.

I noticed that a fish smell carried over from a recent use. So I tried this on a post second fish attempt: I filled the pan as best I could with water, then boiled it for quite some time. Then rinsed and heated and oiled, per above.

I'd love suggestions on if I'm right and / or how to improve!

Feb 19, 2014
danlind3 in Cookware

Mineral B rust, and reseasoning, and ugh.

I don't know if this would work, but I would try it if it were me: if it is bad, you need to take it back to original state. Which to me means taking off the layers/patina with Bar Keepers Friend. Then start over from new with seasoning. I'm really not sure about this and have not tried it on pans. But I did just take a patina off a knife (I wanted to try a new one) this way and it worked well. Everything I know about rust is that it spreads if not removed. What I'm not sure is if BKF is a good way to do that for this pan (and I own three DB steel pans). (the gist here is sim to Sirrith, below, just with a different tactic)

Feb 19, 2014
danlind3 in Cookware

Ditching the mircowave?

Will try the pan too. A toaster oven efficiently combats the soggies too.

Feb 18, 2014
danlind3 in Cookware

Ditching the mircowave?

Even in the fridge, things don't last forever. I may be overly safe/paranoid, but if leftover chicken (for example) has been in the fridge for 2+ days, then when I reheat it, I like to get it to safe temps to its core. As the microwave is prone to uneven heating, I usually use a saucepan to reheat.

Feb 09, 2014
danlind3 in Cookware

Ditching the mircowave?

Sounds like you answer your own question, so ditch it. I have decent space, so there it is. For: leftovers - though I often throw them in a saucepan w/ water, and make sure they hit safe temps; for frozen foods, some aren't better heated by oven heat and some veggie packs are designed for microwave and they are quite good. But they could probably be steamed to good effect (you need a steaming thing (flower??) to put into your pan or an asparagus steamer - which can be used more broadly.

Feb 08, 2014
danlind3 in Cookware

Help me choose my saucier

The Viking saucier has a straight side/rim, just like the saucepan.

Feb 05, 2014
danlind3 in Cookware

Help me choose my saucier

I just got a Sitram catering 2.06 qt saucier. I think the copper disk is too small. It develops a hot ring around the edges even on a really low flame. For a different pan shape, it may work well, but not for this saucier at this size.

Jan 31, 2014
danlind3 in Cookware

Sneaking in a copper sauce pan ??

Hi Mikie,

I suggest waiting until you get what want, and at a good price. Then Mrs may be psyched! Was she on board for the Viking? She must appreciate your cooking! Promise a good bernaise with a good copper. That's my hope anyway, and the only reason I just bought copper on ebay (a 7.5" Windsor for $124, will need to retin for 55 + shipping, but not bad for 2.75 copper). Why copper? I want something that cools fast when I take it off the burner. Otherwise, one buys copper for evenness and quickness, but the latter seems to matter not so much. And aluminum (say MC2) seems to be ok for that, and thick clad. I have Cuisinart multiclad, AC clad, MC2, and Viking clad and I have work to do to tell the difference. But the MC2 and Viking are relatively new, so still working! Glad I have choices, and glad I have stuff my kids will work with. Bottom line, I think the first and best reason for copper is to cool fast to save an egg based sauce. Let the hounds correct. But if sautéing, frying, whatever, I'm not sure copper is critical. Great to enjoy yes. The counterarg is that someone who knows sauces and their pans would never let an egg based sauce get close to needing a copper to cool down. But if they are that good, good for them! And they can get whatever pans they wish! Have fun cooking. I hope Mrs supports you on that, b/c that is the bottom line. And we all need new stuff from time to time.

Jan 28, 2014
danlind3 in Cookware

Beware Quibids...

Their ads have been around for awhile. Huge TVs for a few bucks, etc. Now way that is legit. Thanks for explaining how/who is making money. Just for rants, I hate ebay/paypal. Everytime, I select paypal, not bill me later. Then it switches me to bill me later. One can switch back, but they are so mean to do that. I hate them for that, and use ebay much less than I used to.

Jan 28, 2014
danlind3 in Cookware

Please tell me that I don't need a sushi knife

I like it, I've used it, I will learn more from and about it (from steel to effects of hammering), so no returns. The hammer pattern means humans have been here, and I like that. But some hammer patterns in this line on the EE website are a bit more ordered than others. I love human made things. To me Souk Ceramique is more fun than the decals applied to much of today's "high end" bone china.

I think Cow straightened things out for 1 and 2. If the concavity goes from end to end, and if you have to lay the knife flat on the stones to turn the "flat" side of the bevel from concave to flat, then both A and B get flattened.

Chem, you are a sympathetic and thoughtful person, thank you.

FWIW, I did return a 10" Kramer knife to CKTG for bulging rivets (hence the kono w/ the free money). So I'm not immune to returning. But interesting that CKTG has the 8" version on clearance for just that problem. What a situation. I can't believe Kramer is happy with his partnership.

Jan 27, 2014
danlind3 in Cookware

Please tell me that I don't need a sushi knife

Bingo! That makes sense! Epiphany! This is a most amazing forum. And thanks Chem too for the pic and moving things along. Just wow. I wish Korin was as clear. Thank you!

Jan 27, 2014
danlind3 in Cookware

Please tell me that I don't need a sushi knife

I think I was being redundant in 'above...' and 'upward...' in case one wasn't clear. In any case, thank you. I appreciate the J philosophy of sometimes leaving an OOB knife to be sharpened as the new owner sees fit. And I understand the concave part of the blade. What I don't understand is:
1. Why would one sharpen A? Does it let veggies slide off more smoothly?
2. Doesn't sharpening B create a double bevel blade?

The Tojinbo seems really sharp OOB, the hammering pattern seems a bit random, and it is a bit thicker/heavier than I was hoping, but I may be spoiled by the Kono. As for so many tools, some aspects turn into bennies in some circs. Bottom line tho: it seems great so far. I chopped up mushrooms into feathers last night. (or so it seemed!). A fun frontier for me will be trying to sharpen a steel that hard. Thanks for asking.

Jan 27, 2014
danlind3 in Cookware

Please tell me that I don't need a sushi knife

Thanks to you all, I was more creative! I sprung for this: http://www.epicedge.com/shopexd.asp?id=91618 Wow, you have a good memory. Those sites are very precise, but they don't correspond with where Korin claims to grind/sharpen. It's hard to tell, but does Korin grind in above the edge, upwards of the edge? I don't see that in their page. I see the grind down the edge that should be flat and perhaps round the upper/choil edge. Indeed, their before and after knives are different! So I don't know how to interp all this. Isn't the point of a usuba one flat edge? Grinding concave after the edge might be useful, but I haven't found a good expl of what uraoshi is supposed to achieve. Looks like it might deprive a knife of its single edge. http://korin.com/Services/Uraoshi-Sha... I think this is the new Korin explanation, but I don't think it explains much. Thanks as always, Chem.

Jan 26, 2014
danlind3 in Cookware

Please tell me that I don't need a sushi knife

Hi Chem,

I disagree that Korin explains uraoshi well. I think the current link is: http://korin.com/Services/Uraoshi-Sha... I'm tempted to get a usuba, and from them b/c they do uraoshi for free. But.... I'm not clear what the sharpening does. If one part of the cutting edge is supposed to be flat, how do we explain grinding/sharpening down the flat part? What does the work along the top do? Round the choil? Why do they say that a knife w/o uraoshi can't be sharpened well? They make many assertions, but I don't see the logic. I'd buy a logic, I just don't see explanations. JKI has a vid on this, but it too is not clear as to the whys and what is being achieved. So I am very puzzled. Is the cut depicted at Korin actually concave? That would be wild! But Korin say nothing about that, nor are the pics clear. Heck, the before and afters aren't even of the same knife. Thanks for any links or info on this!

Jan 26, 2014
danlind3 in Cookware

Thermal Conductivity and Heat retention in various types of cookware.

I often like using several cookbooks at once so I can see options, get ideas, etc. As for the 'true cooks' discussion, I'm happy for those who enjoy cooking, but some have better instincts and/or are more creative, etc. That's true for many fields of endeavor. I think it takes quite some level of knowledge and feel to follow some recipes, too.

Jan 26, 2014
danlind3 in Cookware
1

Viking Cookware?

Fascinating. Do you think the Viking V7 is their version of the Demeyere Atlantis line, or a different one? They appear to claim, and I've read on the forums (I think!) that Atlantis is the best they've got going. http://www.demeyere.be/default.asp?CI...

BTW, I'm not sure I see the logic of the capacity argument as production = profit; if they can at all produce it, they would. OTOH, focusing on core products is often wise - and given the cr*p so many high end makers get on the forums, that would seem wise. But that's me just making stuff up.

Jan 20, 2014
danlind3 in Cookware

Viking Cookware?

Could It be on clearance b/c Viking discontinued make cookware? I can't find the cookware on vikingrange.com Any news?

Jan 20, 2014
danlind3 in Cookware