Jake Dear's Profile

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Our 1st time in Paris!! Want to do it right!!

I'm just now seeing these posts on Juveniles. We had a good (to me) -- or just OK (says my wife) lunch there in May. Very casual & nicely crowded. We were the second table to order, yet there was a problem in the semi-open and tiny kitchen, resulting in a neary 30-minute delay between courses -- for us and most others. Some drama was going on back there. Tim's daughter, obviously in charge of the room, apologized and then later took one dish off the bill. Classy moves, and it reset what might have otherwise left a slightly bad taste. A nice place if you are in the Palais Royal area, but not something to cross town for. -- Jake

Oct 15, 2014
Jake Dear in France

Provence for 8 Nights - Done my homework but could use some feedback please!

I second Parigi's Maison Gouin, having enjoyed it on her rec. And I would not schedule La Ferme de la Huppe and Bartavelle on the same day, for Parigi's reasons. We too like a nice sit down lunch as well as dinner, but especially prior to lovely Bartavelle, I'd aim for a lighter lunch at a simpler place. -- Jake

Oct 15, 2014
Jake Dear in France

Olivier Laflaive, Pugliny Montrachet tasting dinner

Kurtis,

"Priceless" indeed. We are are traveling vicariously with you.

I imagine it's beautiful there this time of year. -- Jake

Oct 13, 2014
Jake Dear in France
1

Around Vezelay?

Salut Kurtis, How nice to see this post. Ahhh, you got to see the ponts in the morning steamy mist. Dandy pics.

We can imagine you there, chatting with Philippe and his Dutch wife, Marianne (is she still rolling her own strong cigarettes?) sipping on the terrace as those 75 license plates drive by, and then ambling down through the hamlet's "main street" (as you know there are barely any side streets) to the two bridges. Indeed, all of this not far from CDG -- yet a world away.

When we were first there back in November 2007 with some other friends, Marianne suggested we go up to the war memorial, just beyond the big and newer pont, where the whole village (at least 25 folks, plus us) turned out for the traditional Armistice Day ceremony.

Marianne had told the mayor that she had some Americans staying with her and so he apparently revised his speech (all in French of course) to acknowledge the six of us and the 60,000 Americans who had died nearby in the great war. It was a gracious and moving gesture, and even now it reminds us of the many reasons for our love of traveling in France beyond Paris. (See photo, including the mayor, wearing a dashing sash.)


PS, when we returned again with other friends for a fine lunch there in the fall of 2011, I was so glad to see my favorite deux chevaux was still parked right across the street from the hotel. Did it remain for you we hope? (See second picture; and I'll add a third of the hotel in November -- fireplace weather.) – Jake

Oct 12, 2014
Jake Dear in France
1

Paris from mid-September to mid-October!

Salut Carole, your report reminds me of the lovely and similarly convivial dinner we had there, also with one of your dining companions (hint, it was not R) last spring. From your description, I infer that pork belly was not on the menu? That was a standout dish for us, but everything else was top notch as well. We really liked this place.

By my count, you have four dinners, and a few lunches, to go. Like others, I'll be sorry to end this vicarious tour. -- Jake

Oct 12, 2014
Jake Dear in France

Paris, Brittany and Normandy Report (Long)

Salut designetedeater, Thanks for the report (I'll consult it in the future, especially your mention of La Calypso) and also for the update on Petit Hôtel du Grand Large. You were there for dinner? We were at lunch only, and did find it quite simple for a *, but on the other hand enjoyed its casualness. And the restaurant staff, which I assume are also the hotel staff, were indeed delightful. Sounds like a lovely trip, except for the bouchons and crowds in Cancale. -- Jake

Oct 12, 2014
Jake Dear in France

our list/your opinion-- we've done our homework (i think!)

"Or a lamb kebab, sitting side-saddled at Urfa Dürum." We enjoyed that a few weeks ago. Actually, one lamb and one chicken. And two watery but refreshing 1664s in cans -- it was a warm day. Darn, I should have tried one of those home-made white-colored drinks from the big container on the counter. What was that again?

We scrunched down at the small and very low table, sitting in correspondingly miniature sidesaddle stool/seats, with a view, if we craned our necks and looked backwards or up, of the women doing prep in the back room and the fellows grilling over wood in the front. We had to restrain ourselves not to return the next day. (So many other places to sample.)

We thank Ptipois for this rec, but are not at all surprised to now recall, Parigi, that it's a favorite of yours as well. I think we are quite in synch.

We arrived a bit after noon, and by the time we left the line outside looked like this (I think I recall that it's a ticket restaurant, and so there's lots of local lunchtime traffic):
-- Jake

Oct 12, 2014
Jake Dear in France
2

Paris from mid-September to mid-October!

Salut Carole, so glad to hear Les Climats was good for you. That back room under the glass ceiling is wonderful at night as well, as we learned a few weeks ago when we diverted back there after we received a call late in the pm saying that Roseval had to be closed that night due to an accident. Les Climats at night, with its pure Bourgogne focus, was just as good as the prior lunch we'd had there. By the way, I hope you make it out to Bones, that will be a completely different vibe (and likely noisy). The cooking was bright, the wines we ordered were great, and the house-made bread is fantastic. -- Jake

Oct 10, 2014
Jake Dear in France

Paris and Avignon Restaurant Report

The "Infiniment Vanille" is what we had. Lovely; sweet but not overly; even my wife had half of hers, a rarity -- she is not a dessert lover.

Oct 08, 2014
Jake Dear in France

Paris and Avignon Restaurant Report

Salut tastebudseattle,

Thanks for the thoughtful report. Re A. Noste and tweezers: When we were upstairs there a few weeks ago (and for us it also was not crowded, yet not empty) we were each brought rather substantial tweezers with which to grab the slice of beef as it was being cut off the spit at the table. The meats were excellent, but as you suggest, challenging after what came before.

And re one of those prior dishes -- as you say, "a play on mussels and frites where the mussels were puréed with potato and deep fried to resemble frites" -- they were indeed fantastic for us too. I'm not sure that "the same combination was then baked off in the mussel shell" though -- I thought that part was more a take on gnocchi? We really enjoyed that dish in particular -- clearly the chef was having fun. I'll attach a photo.

Oh, and re Gigondas, and
L'Oustalet -- glad to hear it was good for you. We still recall lunch there in early May as one of the most pleasant, amiable, and memorable anywhere. Next time we will follow your lead and book a room at the inn.

Enjoy your Comte! We are as well -- this time, selections from la Ferme Saint Hubert, http://www.la-ferme-saint-hubert-de-p... (thanks for the rec, DCM), where he has four, and nicely gave us tastes before we bought big slices. And he packs sous vide / vacuum as well, just like Dubois.

PS, for other lovers of Comte, I'm just now reading an excellent 9 year old cover article in the Art of Eating (2005, no. 70, and for this I'll thank mangeur) -- I wish I'd understood all I'm learning about Comte earlier, but better late than never.
-- Jake

Oct 08, 2014
Jake Dear in France

Chamonix... anything hound worthy?

Sorry, nothing to report on Chamonix. But re "Flocons de Sel" -- the three-star place:

Four weeks ago, while staying there, we had a special celebration dinner for four. We all agreed the next morning that it was one of the best dinners ever, anywhere.

Chef Renalt ended up proposing and making a series of special plates for all four of us, improvising and embellishing -- after getting our assent to his open-ended suggestion -- on our initial orders.

Wine service was both affable and professional, focusing, at our request, entirely on very local producers.

Our experience may have been due to a series of events that are not replicable. But still, it was quite an evening, and we will be back. More later. -- Jake

Oct 06, 2014
Jake Dear in France
1

Paris from mid-September to mid-October!

"soufflé au marrons" at Le Kigawa. I enjoyed that there too a month ago; glad to hear this tiny and rather elegant place was good for you. Did you peek into L'Assiette, nearly right across the street? Another very fine place with a totally different feel. -- Jake

Oct 06, 2014
Jake Dear in France

Eric Briffard leaving Le Cinq

And it certainly does add perspective to Ptipois' comments about the "stars" (distinguished from the rest of red guide itself) in the other contemporaneous thread.

I am recalling fondly the generous lunch (and spontaneous post- repast kitchen tour) we had there about a year ago -- and am doubting that experiences like that can be replicated now. -- Jake

Oct 06, 2014
Jake Dear in France

Neige d'Eté?

We will be interested to read responses to this thread. From the link it appears very promising. -- Jake

Oct 04, 2014
Jake Dear in France

5 days in Brittany--advice on places to eat and stay

Hi Randy, We as well as mangeur thank you for the La Telline recommendation, what a lovely place. In only small recompense, I'll mention, not too far from Auray, and nearish Carnac: Le Petit Hôtel du Grand Large -- a simple and casual (at least for lunch) one star place that we enjoyed in Sept 2013: http://www.lepetithoteldugrandlarge.fr/. (We had excellent seafood accompanied by an aged Muscadet, and we enjoyed speaking with the three women who run the front of the house.) -- Jake

Oct 03, 2014
Jake Dear in France

5 days in Brittany--advice on places to eat and stay

Indeed it was closed when we were there in late 2012. It is now only a small boutique hotel, with a few rooms with nice views onto the water. -- Jake

Oct 03, 2014
Jake Dear in France

Clamato

Here's another vote for Le Kigawa. We were a table for 4, three weeks ago. The only Japanese influence in the tiny room was the plainly elegant setting and the clientele, 50 percent of whom appeared to be Japanese. Oh, and reservation is easy 15 days in advance on la
Fourchette/ the Fork.-- Jake

Sep 28, 2014
Jake Dear in France

Our 1st time in Paris!! Want to do it right!!

Re Bones: The radiance extends to and includes the house-made country loaf bread. Fantastic crust and crumb; among the best I remember in France, and on par with that of Tartine in San Francisco (and disciples thereof). -- Jake

Sep 28, 2014
Jake Dear in France

Jancis Robinson On Wine Shops In Paris

And at the end, we see yet another endorsement of "Juan Sanchez’s La Dernière Goutte." He does have a good selection, and his hours and English speaking sales staff makes it very easy. But, not too surprisingly, it comes with a premium? --Jake

Sep 27, 2014
Jake Dear in France

Paris from mid-September to mid-October!

Making the best of a long delay sitting here at CDG, thanks to the AF strike:

I'm catching up on my CH meeting, and this thread is fun.

I will very quickly mention three places for your fine evolving list:

Le Kigawa, which was mentioned earlier, was indeed very nice a couple weeks ago.

Les Climats, two nights ago, was as good as we remembered from a prior visit.

And Bones, where we dined last night with two others from this board, was one of the best dinners in our last 20 nights on this trip. -- Jake

Sep 26, 2014
Jake Dear in France

A Noste from a Curmudgeonly Minority Perspective

"Upstairs there is a more serious gastronomical restaurant with a fixed price menu. It may very well be worth trying."

We did, a couple days ago.

It was one of the best and most interesting dinners of many on this most recent trip. More about it later, and maybe a couple pictures as well, after Delta takes us home (we were supposed to be on Air France but that is another story) and I have time to write. -- Jake

Sep 25, 2014
Jake Dear in France

Angéla is alive and hopping at 81 rue de Turbigo

(That was likely Saigon Sandwich? My fav on that street near my office, but there are other new places as well.)

Sep 01, 2014
Jake Dear in France

Irouleguy Basque Wine Region worth visiting?

At the recommendation of both Parigi and mangeur we visted the area few years ago, and totally loved it. I posted a report back then. Irouléguy wines taste better "on site," I think; they go so well with the local foods. -- Jake

Aug 25, 2014
Jake Dear in France

Trip Report, May 10 - 17 (Fish, Le Villaret, Chez Casimir, A La Biche au Bois, Other)

Hi Ptipois, Very good; and maybe we can visit those sources -- Mo would love to do that I'm sure. (And our two particular containers of Keri Gosse (yikes, I now realize that I've been adding an "r"!) that we got from Bruno shows an Aurey address, the producer being "E. Pouezat." We were told it came from a drugstore there. We also understand it is (mostly?) made by drugstores in Lorient?) -- Jake

Aug 24, 2014
Jake Dear in France

Trip Report, May 10 - 17 (Fish, Le Villaret, Chez Casimir, A La Biche au Bois, Other)

Hi Ptipois, Mo says she will take you up on that! We know that the Kerri Grosse comes from Auray. But she also says that what she misses most from l'epicerie de Bruno is his "Tandoori masala." We figure there must be other places in Paris where we can get a similar thing?

Aug 24, 2014
Jake Dear in France

Trip Report, May 10 - 17 (Fish, Le Villaret, Chez Casimir, A La Biche au Bois, Other)

Thank you for the update, mangeur. Again we wish the best for him. And now we need a new place to get Kari Grosse.

Aug 24, 2014
Jake Dear in France

Trip Report, May 10 - 17 (Fish, Le Villaret, Chez Casimir, A La Biche au Bois, Other)

"Bruno, who has been hospitalized with pneumonia recently" --

And when we were there last, the shop was closed. He's a nice fellow, and we hope he's OK. Can anyone here say, is he open now? We hope to stock up in a few weeks . . . . -- Jake

Aug 23, 2014
Jake Dear in France

Specialties from the Vaucluse (Avignon) part of Provence?

"Is L'Oustalet the kind of place where you can count on them offering bouillabaisse?" -- Certainly not in our experience a couple months ago, unless we just happened to miss it on the carte. But we saw no one else with it either. -- Jake

Aug 21, 2014
Jake Dear in France

Roseval

Thanks mangeur, once again you are reconfirming places on our list for September…. -- Jake

Aug 01, 2014
Jake Dear in France

Le Galopin

And you have just sent us there in September. -- Jake

Jul 30, 2014
Jake Dear in France