Now the last part of the trip-- to Singapore from HK. Before landing at Changi, I must say the food & service lived up to the hype even in economy for Singapore Airlines. You get a choice of an "American" or "Asian" meal. I chose the latter and very much enjoyed a terrific vegetarian rice plate with sweet soy milk to drink (hey, this was good by airplane standards, so let's keep things in perspective).
Singapore Airlines offers free Singapore Slings...I didn't sample it but somebody needs to do a taste-off between that and quickly sprint to Raffles for comparison. I bet the Airlines win.
After an airplane lunch, it was off to Restaurant André for dinner.
I'd put André right smack dab in the middle of the classical to modernist spectrum, central between say, The French Laundry and Paul Bocuse on the right and Alinea/Noma on the left.
Many, many very special dishes. Very personal restaurant and you can tell Chef André cares a great deal about each diners' experience (none of this it's all about global press, World's Top 50, being a celebrity chef stuff). No, he's in the present.
This clearly is a team that knows how to work with each other. After all, there's only 4-5 servers period doing everything, including wine service. It's really more a theatre troupe than a typical wait staff. These are pros who are absolutely in sync with each other.
On the subject of wine-- definitely try the pairings. The opening Champagne was hands down the best I've ever had, a Brut Blanc de Blancs from Michel Turgy. Ken Hasegawa's wine "book" (it's literally within a novel) presents on biodynamic wines from small producers and growers in France. Very few Bordeaux and Burgundy. Big time creativity and flavor with even some very good values to be found.
I'm not the biggest fan of the all cream white parlor look but it is charming to me (some would find it a bit stuffy I bet). The black sheep guarding each table help add levity, as does the enormous human sculpture outside.
Ok, I'll just recite the night's menu, then highlight my top, top favorites.
Snacks: Green Chicken Curry; Scallop/vitelotte/chard chips; Pineapple olive martini; patatas bravas; fish and chips; onion/onion/onion
Pure: Stone crab raviolis/ pear snow/ leek water
Musk melon/ Muscat Grape
Camambert with hay ice cream
Kaya toast/ popcorn/ raspberry sangria chupa chip/ French earl gray crustalline/ chestnut madeleine/ churros/ nutella/ pain d'epices
Highlights: green chicken curry bite on chicken skin, "Pure" (beautiful flavors, clear with no seasoning), "Artisan" (come on, perfect aubergine, uni, and caviar...), "Terroir" (perfect steak, I mean as good as I've had anywhere, anytime), "Camambert" (brilliant how André re-engineers the cheese and adds the hay ice cream), kaya toast macaron (is there a better Singapore-French hybrid than this?), and Churros with nutella (this is cheating, how can this not be good?).
Only decent: Very few but I wasn't moved by pineapple olive martini (nothing stuck out to me), patatas bravas, and the chestnut madeleine (a perfectly fine madeleine, no chestnut detected). The "unique" was enjoyable to me but others might be turned off from so much mushroom-truffle going on. Not me.
Other quibble-- too many dishes with "soil." I counted three. I think one is enough and I'm sure André is aware of this and will make a change. Soil is fun briefly. But not with bites, "unique," and "Snickers."
At the end of the day, André is a beautiful experience, very unique, and one I will cherish as long as I eat.
Nightcap-- at long last, the 27 Singapore Dollars Singapore Sling at Raffles' Long Bar. Worth it? Once. Way too much grenadine and pineapple juice, not enough cherry heering. And is it me or is the long bar not actually that long like at the Waldorf in Shanghai?
Ok, to the 2 full days.
Day 1: met my friend for a lunch of tastes around Old Airport Road. He and his friends just kept bringing foods to the table and quickly explaining what they were. I could never remember everything. 2 types of oyster omelettes (best was Xing Li Cooked Food). A pork noodle soup. A shrimp and pork soup with just broth. "dark" carrot cake (love it). A dish of like 6 pig offal parts, cabbage, and hard boiled egg. A bland flat, thick noodle brown broth soup. Tan Beng Otah Delights' fish curry mousse in banana leaf. Kah Ping Ri Ye Xiang's excellent rojak was a joy. Lao Bay soya beancurd (tried cold and warm, both are great).
Then best espresso of Singapore at Assembly by the botanical gardens.
I realized Tian Tian wouldn't be open my only other da (Monday) so I tried for an early dinner there at Maxwell Center. Well, I got there at 7 and despite saying it closes at 8, it was closed. I wasn't the only one bummed there. Alas, we all went next door to Ah Tai. IMO, it's excellent. Not a salty broth. Beautifully moist, slightly cold chicken with fragrant gravy. A winner. Maybe the rice could be a bit fluffier and have a bit more perk to it.
Then a little bar crawl of the Million Dollar Cocktail at Raffles Long Bar-- good, not great, way better than the Sling. Apparently they have a craft cocktail program upstairs now on the 3rd floor someone should try. Then to Waku Ghin's bar in Marina Bay Sands (excellent Jamaica Martini of darm and rum and PX sherry, shows how great ingredients can bet together, very smooth), and Lantern on Fullerton Bay Hotel's rooftop. What a view. What a scene.
Last day: started with kopi and orange ciabatta kaya toast at Good Morning Nanyang Cafe. Great rec!!!
Espresso at Nylon Roasters- terrific. Then taxi and lunch at 328 Katong Laksa at 216 East Coast Rd. Again, excellent. My first laksa...a high standard. Very friendly server/ cook.
Excellent espresso at Toby's Estate (ok, tied for best with Academy) and my first "Piccolo" nearby at Common Man Roasters. Is it me or do Singapore cafés all expect you to eat? It's always strange with table service and just getting a tiny drink.
Met friends for a big Chinatown Food Center dinner...highlight was hands down the fish intestines with gourd and the fish head in spicy sauce from An Ji. Also the decent beer selections from Good Beer Co., I had the chance to try Jungle's Siloso Beach steam lager.
Some mediocre chicken wings and cockles from 188 BBQ. A fish tartare plate. I didn't get pictures of much else but there were a few noodle soups amongst others.
I thought about a second dinner at Burnt Ends for kicks but instead got snacks with a drink at Tippling Club. The "Transatlanticism" was the best cocktail of the trip and definitely get the "chocolate-orange" dessert. A masterpiece. Very fun and talented bartenders. One day I'll do the full tasting experience in the dining room.
Great cocktails also at 28 Hong Kong St and Cufflink Club, and a Tiger beer at on the waterfront because I had to try it to say that I've tried it. I prefer the Sling...(hey, I had to leave at 3 am for my flight back home from Changi, so I chose to stay awake!).
By the way for future reference, the Cufflink Club and Tippling Club bartenders made a list of under the radar cocktail bars to try one day: Manor Bar, The Study, Manhattan Bar at Regents Hotel, Spiffy Dapper on Boat Quay, and Ah Sam.
What a wonderful trip start to finish from Beijing to Singapore. Thank you again every so much for your help. I hope my journeys help others find excellent food and drink. Not that this is a surprise but Singapore is a gem when it comes to eating. Now I need to find laksa and Hainan chicken rice in SF.
Ok, here we go! My belated Hong Kong and Singapore report from late May 2014, picking up after a week and a half in Beijing and Shanghai. Everything went well for the most part...can't control all the rain in HK (why is the pavement like black ice in HK? Made for a nasty spill running in Kowloon Park...)
Day 1: arrived from Shanghai in the afternoon. Great cocktail experience at Wyndham the 4th. The one knock is my drink came on too large a rock in too small a glass (I'm all for the oversized rocks you see everywhere these days...but this one literally blocked most access to the drink. It was a battle with the rock for a half hour).
Then per Chowhound suggestion, solo dinner at Man Wah with their pre-arranged tasting menu. Overall: so-so. There were some real highs and no lows except skip-able dessert. It was just a very lethargic feeling the whole time there. Not a "destination." Terrific braised beef cheek and also the stir fried prawns.
Finished next door with a great view and an overly sweet cocktail when it wasn't supposed to be at MO Bar.
One note-- I did try about 4 days in advance to arrange lunch at Lung Keen Heen. Well, they were booked for about a month out, even for a solo diner. I should've followed Charles' advice and gone to Ming's Court.
Day 2-- excellent lunch at the original Tim Ho Wan. As a party of 1...no wait! Yes, you share a table, but who cares? Tim Ho Wan lived up to the hype. Certainly one of the best $15 USD meals I remember. Best dish? of course the pork buns. The pigs liver vermicelli roll, the glutinous rice dumpling, and shrimp dumplings all close seconds. Skip the steamed egg cake--- just tastes like neutral fluffy vanilla cake.
Then a big coffee crawl. Started at Alchemy in Quarry Bay for good, not great espresso. Excellent flat white next at the first 18 Grams in Causeway Bay. Finally, very much enjoyed the Coffee Academics. Good espresso at those last 2 for sure.
Lots of sightseeing before the evening stage. Definitely grab a beer at the Globe in Central. Yardbird was a great choice for dinner. Like Tim Ho Wan, the hype didn't drag it down. The Korean fried cauliflower, maitake mushrooms, tsukune, chicken neck, and chicken tail were stand-outs. Pair with sake, not cocktails.
Finished with drinks at Lily (you want the aged Sazerac), Butler (excellent Japanese style cocktails in Kowloon, a worthwhile splurge with $30 HKD cover), and a nightcap at Ned Kelly's Last Stand because a close friend at home frequented there when he lived in HK in the 70's.
Day 3: Pouring rain. Bad injury from running but we move on to lunch at Mak An Kee for won ton soup. Verdict: Great experience and choice but...the soup itself just isn't a real flavor heavy hitter. Maybe I expected more to the broth? Very friendly place, great rec none the less. Won tons just didn't move me nor did the soup...too plain.
Then great espresso tasting at The Cupping Room. Terrific baristas and experience.
Brings up the point-- with espresso routinely over $3 USD, is espresso just really expensive overall in HK?
Then a rapid trip to Macau. As in arrive in Macau by ferry at 4:15 pm, return at 5:45 pm. Yes, 90 mins. That means no eating. When I asked about a nearby Lord Stow's, the tourist desk thought I was crazy. At least I saw the MGM and Wynn to return me to when I lived in Vegas (I'm not a gambler!). But neither had any pasteis de nata despite many French pastries on display.
Dinner: arranged tasting at The Chairman...was on par with Man Wah. Meh, ok. Loved certain dishes like pickled cherry tomatoes, razor clams, and superb fried crab and mushroom dumplings. But I was rarely bowled over. And bland porridge for dessert...Plus, really, they have one wine by the glass and it's a sweet Riesling? I understand that but a restaurant of that caliber should have more...
Finished with drinks at Quinary, Barsmith (recommended by owner of Butler whose wife runs Barsmith, great pick), and Honi Honi. All are highly recommended. Get the Zombie at Honi Honi and prepare for a wait.
Left the next morning for Singapore. Sadly because of the early Hong Kong subway closing time, taxis to Kowloon made the return late and I chose a little sleep over breakfast before the flight at Mui Kee Congee. :( Will report on Singapore tomorrow.
Overall, missed out on congee (outside of the un-impressive one at the Chairman). Great cocktails and coffee. Loved Yardbird and tim Ho Wan. Man Wah and The Chairman...I think you can do much better.
Absolutely...if only Jia-Jia were the size of Yang's and you wouldn't have to wait at either!
Day 5: After seeing the terra cotta warriors, arrived late in Shanghai for dinner at Jesse. It really is great. Yes, the service is brusque and they forgot out wine and took forever to take our order and didn't remember our reservation from the concierge and didn't remember we pre- ordered 2 dishes...but they weren't mean. Just...a not perfect.
Loved the red pork, scallion fish head, tofu wrapped herbs, and glutinous stuffed dates. All terrific Chowhound recs (and thanks to the English speaking couple next to us for saving the day with the ordering procedure).
Day 6: Lots and lots of walking. Great duo lunch of Yang's Fry dumplings, then across the street to Jia Jia Tang Bao. They were out of pork xlb so had pork-crab. Everything was terrific...and boy is Jia Jia quite the atmosphere. Both are essential visits and deserve the hype. Yang's had no wait while Jia Jia was about 30 mins.
Various exploring around town finished with drinks at the Ritz in Pudong's Bar Flair (what a view! Cocktails are decent) then Bar Rouge (gives the expected attitude, good wine list).
Dinner at Mr. and Mrs. Bund. Hmm, what to say? It's a fun, good restaurant. Not to be harsh but for it to be on the World's Top 100 list is simply unfair to hundreds of other restaurants worldwide. It's simply incorrect and must be changed. It's slightly creative French food in a Las Vegas over the top sensory service style. With less expectations, it's a great experience. It's not Robuchon or probably even Ultraviolet.
Decent dishes-- cod in a bag, arugula salad with truffles, cold picnic chicken.
Top notch dishes: lemon tart (definitely lives up to the hype) and truffle bread.
And having a meal suddenly stop as the lights dim and music blares for a proposal was kind of fun the first time. Then just annoying the second time.
Day 7: The casual day. Lunch at Farine, a bakery in the French Concession where the coffee surprisingly surpassed the mediocre but beautiful looking pastries. Salami sandwich on a thin baguette...I was misled since the real baguettes looked so good but this was like stale crostini. The recommended pain aux raisins barely had any crème Chantilly or raisins like I was assured. But a fun, fun atmosphere and great patio.
Great espresso at Café del Volcan...put this on the list with Farine (and Sumerian later in the trip).
In the evening, enjoyed a dinner of pork and vegetable won ton in clear soup that a friend from home now living in Shanghai took me to. Anybody know this? It's right by IAPM.
Some great cocktails or cocktail attempts (give El Coctel a chance but the avocado Margarita had way too much Cayenne pepper on the rim, coating actually half the tumbler and the avocado was barely detectable). Best cocktail of maybe the whole trip was the "Jerico" (Rye, green Chartreuse, St. Germain, PX Sherry) at Senator Saloon. And of course the Jazz Bar at the Fairmount Peace Hotel...the Manhattan was properly stiff and out of balance. I didn't dig the drinks at Salon de Né in the Peninsula either (that was the first night).
Day 8: Din Tai Fung for lunch. As great as I've had in LA and Taipei. Really, the shrimp and pork "shao mai" are even more the highlight than the xlb. Seaweed and bean curd salad is the perfect partner for the xlb I found.
Visited Sumerian for coffee. Indeed, great espresso. I thought "Kyoto Iced Coffee" didn't already have sugar and milk mixed in (it doesn't in SF). Well, it did here. So I just had a few sips and discarded the rest.
Since there was a big Asian Leaders Conference this day, literally every museum was closed, so I ambled to Boxing Cat Brewery for a surprisingly good tasting (not as great as Great Leap in Beijing). Right Hook Helles and Sucker Punch Pale Ale were highlights. Lowlights were Ringside Red Lager and Contender Extra Pale Ale.
I can't say how great the Waldorf Astoria's Long Bar is. It actually is long and not a tourist relic (the one in Singapore is all for tourists, bad drinks, and the bar isn't even long). Get the "Waldorf Cocktail" Rye, Absinthe, sweet Vermouth, bitters.
For some reason, why did I think Commune Social was on the Bund? I kept asking and asking where is it since I thought it was right by the Waldorf. By phone wouldn't work at all for internet in China...so I finally gave up and went to Mercato.
Mercato was very reliable California-Italian (loved the capellini with a Chez Panisse level asparagus pesto). Great gelato too. Tuna tartare and octopus were reliable if unspectacular. Most importantly, the pizzas look great and I got to try China wine! Both the Grace Vineyards Chardonnay and Cab Sauvignon are actually very good and balanced.
The half way point of the trip...to Hong Kong next!
O.k., after 2 weeks of fighting jet lag and catching up on work, here's the recap from the trip! I'll give a post on Beijing & Xi'an and then one on Shanghai. Then Singapore and Hong Kong in my other thread.
First of all, thank you, thank you to all of the Chowhound who sent their advice! It's hard to say the dining matched sights like the Great Wall and Terra Cotta Warriors...but it came close!
Day 1: great lunch of carrot-cilantro-tofu dumplings and cumin beef dumplings at Xi'an Lao Dumplings. Yes, it's on the radar of tourists but not really. Superb dumplings and great if you're visiting hutongs/ Lama Temple.
Drinks at Kerry Hotel Bar and on top of China World Summit Wing (the latter you'll see...smog/fog and a little city). Both are just fine and very civilized.
Dinner at Da Dong's original on Dongsishitao. No, we didn't get any sea cucumber dishes though if you didn't know better, from the menu you'd think this is a sea cucumber restaurant. The lean duck is indeed very lean but the razor thin skin is downright candy when dipped in the sugar. Superb! But...
Day 2: On that sour note, I will say the Sofitel Beijing makes tremendous coffee...for the equivalent of $7 USD. Seriously. It's outstanding coffee but wow. And we thought Intelligentsia/Blue Bottle are expensive.
Went to Mutianyu and driver took us to a regular spot near a parking lot. It was fine...I think the something "Family" restaurant if that rings a bell for anyone.
Then dinner at Temple...the service was top tier, maybe even better than we'd get in SF. The opposite of Da Dong. And yes, they had taxis waiting for us.
The wine program, the gravlax, and the chocolate and Grand Marnier soufflés were highlights, along with the gorgeous space. They gave out several freebies and a glass of Champagne which helps explain why prices might be a tick higher than they should be (an entrée could be $30 USD when really it should be $25...). Skip the highly recommended suckling pig-- a meager serving and banal preparation.
Day 3: Went to Forbidden City and Temple of Heaven. This was our only day with the guide. I had requested for her to take us to Noodle Loft but alas, Beijing has traffic and sightseeing takes time ;) So my one concession was to eat lunch at a dumpling shop of her choosing near Temple of Heaven. It was quite good, especially the cuttlefish dumplings stained black. She said literally the name is "Dumpling Restaurant."
Very much enjoyed drinks at Mai Bar (serious craft cocktails in a hutong...someone will copy this in the U.S. for sure) and the brews at Great Leap Brewing Co. The latter is of terrific quality, a great surprise.
Dinner at Dali Courtyard...meh. Maybe since we were seated inside. But really, most dishes were just decent. The pace was very rapid. One chicken dish could've been generic kung pao chicken. Did really enjoy the lemongrass shrimp, chilled tofu with mint, tomato, and Szechuan peppers, and the whole tilapia Yunnan style. Still, the vibe felt sold out to tourists. Nice to go once but I think I wish I chose Noodle Loft instead.
Day 4: High speed train to Xi'an
Then to Shanghai.
The trip is complete...17 days, 4 countries (really 3 since I didn't have time to eat in Macau), at least 30 excellent meals of the highest end to some very exciting street food. Sadly no durian or fish head curry (but I did get fish head in sauce at Chinatown Hawker Center).
I'll report back at the end of the week after I combat this jet lag. But I'm curious, thoughts on Tian Tian vs Ah Tai @ Maxwell when it comes to Hainan chicken rice?
Haha...I didn't make it to Yan Toh Heen in the end but after trying Long Bar's super grenadine driven rendition, I don't think I'll be ordering a Sling again anywhere.
With how sweet my drink at MO Bar was, I wouldn't dare to ask them for one!
Greetings everyone from Shanghai!
Heading to Hong Kong now...almost all set on my plan but still curious about choosing between Man Wah and Seventh Son for one dinner and a dim sum lunch at Tim's Kitchen or Tim Ho Wan. Any tie-breakers?
Re: Man Wah, they're willing to do a tasting menu and sent a copy of it to me (looked far better than Yan Toh Heen's offer) but I'll still go to the latter at least for that glass of Pinot Noir Domenexx.
Other 2 lunch: Mak An Kee and Mui Kee Congee. Other 2 dinners: Yardbird and Chairman (menu arranged already).
How about desserts and any cafes/ morning pastries for my half day visit to Macau?
Thanks Domenexx-- terrific advice. The coin flip will be Man Wah and 7th Son to go with dinners at Chairman and Yardbird.
Then the question for lunch dim sum-- Tim's Kitchen, Tom Ho Wan or one of the other major dim sum spots?
For the board-- for time, I'm going to stick to coffee/pastries in Macau. Any favorites for something light but excellent and local. Maybe Lord Stow's?
Alrighty, it's off to Beijing in the morning. Here's how the line-up looks like. Feel free to help me update it upon arrival. Speak now or...I don't eat as well :(
Xi'an: still very undecided but badly want pao ma.
Looking for again bakeries, coffee, and if my bar choices look good in the original post.
Thanks and talk to you from China!
Oh no, hate to hear about the service at Jesse. Did you have the scallion fish head or red pork at Jesse? Any favorite dishes from Yun Se and Mercato (both I'm seriously considering)?
Definitely now have Noodle Loft on the to do list. I had been meaning to ask about a good place to try Zha Jiang Mian. Is there a dumpling spot considered a must-hit like Bao Yuan or Xian Lao Man?The latter I'm guessing is a lot like De Fa Cheng in Xi'an.
Haha, good points. Will definitely pre-order the red pork and fish head. If they're finished, they're finished. If not...it's not exactly the $ of French Laundry.
Now I'm hoping Jesse isn't losing quality despite all of us English speakers going there nowadays...
Oh my! That's worth a try for the novelty.
Ah, need to try a Million Dollar Cocktail too...maybe a little Raffles crawl of Million Dollar at Writers Bar and Sling at Long Bar...not worrying much about quality but soaking up classic atmospheres.
Of "not touristy" Singapore cocktail bars, Tippling Club seems like the biggest must-hit...any other favorites anyone from the my initial list or ones I don't know about?
Excellent, thanks Bruce! I'll certainly be there. Any experience with Coffee Academics, Accro, Knockbox, or The Cupping Room?
Just saw this after looking up more on 18 Grams:
No worries Bellachefa and Beach Chick...I don't think anyone wants Kauai to become Maui (the day will never come when Poipu looks like Kaanapali. I also don't think anyone wants Kauai's dining to become about celebrity chefs like Maui is starting to (well, other than Roy).
I would love to see the equivalent of what Bev Gannon and Sheldon Simeon are doing for Maui though...I feel like Josselin's has always had the potential to be like that but just doesn't feel the urge to leave the status quo Roy's, Beach House level.
Haha...then that brings up the question, who in Singapore serves a great Sling for comparison to the Long Bar?
Should add to Beijing I just saw that Ippudo opened there in Kerry Centre...getting ramen doesn't really seem right (though it is from China originally, right?) but I've always wanted to try an Ippudo and have no idea when I'd get a chance in NY or Tokyo.
Definitely will try Three Guizhou Men and just one duck (leaning to Da Dong). Now you've got me researching all those other cuisines!
The dumpling tasting looks pretty epic there...definitely will consider it. But my hope with just one real meal in town is to try the Shaanxi knife cut chilled noodles and pao ma. Lao Sun Jia is known for the pao ma...but I'm guessing there's a great option I don't know about somewhere.
There will just be 2 of us...so can't make too much of a dent in the menu. Definitely have to do the fish head w/ scallions (pre-ordered), the dates stuffed w/ glutinous rice, and tofu wrapped wild herbs. Red braised pork might be overkill though unless it's obligatory...or a small serving available?
Definitely will try Yang's and Jia Jia, along with Din Tai Fung. Anybody been to Jian Guo 328?
You know, now that I do the math with plane arrival/departure times, it really seems like it can just be the 3 dinners, 1 lunch, 1 early lunch/late breakfast (does Singapore Airlines serve food in economy HKG to SIN?), and then either 1 more lunch or lunch in Macau on my daytrip day to Macau.
The early lunch should probably be for congee? Or, should I scratch that and do a really early Mak An Kee, dim sum for the other HK lunch, and then a lunch in Macau? If I eat in Macau, I'd certainly consider Robuchon au Dome (strangely I just lived for 3 months in Vegas for an assignment about 3 mins walk from his L'Atelier and never went there) or local Macaunese.
For Macaunese, it looks like from previous threads Fernando's, Litorai, and A Lorcha are good choices, or at least they were.
Klyeoh, that would be great! I won't be arriving until May 24th though...not sure if that works. On that subject, are lots of the street food/hawker centres closed on Sundays?
Funny you mention Buena Vista—though I've lived here almost all my life, only been there once. BUT, I actually thought the Irish Coffee was pretty good. As in, it wasn't bad and sure you have to go once.
Thank you so much for the list—I'm especially interested in the Ocean @ Teluk Ayer St fish head curry. They seem to ebb and flow with opening hours...
Has anybody been to Burnt Ends? Menu looks terrific and it sure is getting the global magazine press (which can be a good sign or...not so much).
Agreed—in a way, it seems the highlights of Kauai's food & drink are in the artisans (whether it's jam makers, bakeries, farmers, mead & beer) and less in regards to the middle and upscale restaurants. I'm guessing though there will be spots opening soon on par food & service-wise with Alan Wong's, Chef Mavro's, Salt Kitchen...Kauai Ono is a very good sign of things to come.
Haha, you know I just read like a CNN or Travel & Leisure thing from 2011 on Liberty Private Works yesterday. It sounded great. Then looked up the website and it looked the same as described a few years ago. So, I thought, hey why not see what Chowhound thinks? But you're right, no reason for me to try it when we have speakeasy type dinners everywhere.
Charles, what would you recommend on doing with The Chairman as a solo diner? Should I go for the 3 course lunch or maybe try to arrange with them beforehand a one person dinner banquet? So many dishes there worth trying...same dilemma I'm having with Seventh Son.
Mak An Kee it is! I knew not to even ask about Wing Wah. I'll skip Bo Innovation. Thoughts on what to order at Mui Kee Congee/are they open at lunch or just mornings?
Forgot to ask about a lunch in Macau too...
And now the 2nd part of my 17 night, 5 city trip (this is actually the first portion of the trip, however). First will be Beijing, then a quick hop to Xi'an, and then Shanghai, before continuing to Singapore & Hong Kong as discussed in a separate post.
Beijing: 4 nights/days, so basically 4 dinners and 4 lunches, though one day will be at the Great Wall...Staying in the CBD. We'll do the usual tourist attractions, visit some hutongs, and I really want to venture out and see the Bird's Nest.
Peking Duck-- sounds like it should be between Da Dong and Made In China. Any tie-breakers? Should I just say screw it and try both?
The rest, looking for a nice blend of upscale, casual, street food, local cuisine, other Chinese regions, exciting non-Chinese restaurants...In other words I'll consider anything. Would love to hear about bakery gems and spots with great espresso shots too.
The list shows right now: Temple, Transit, Dali Courtyard, Middle 8, Mosto & Modo, Sureno, Black Sesame Kitchen, Three Guizhou Men, amd Xian Lao Man for dumplings. Sounds like Green T House should be scratched.
Bars: Mai Bar, El Nido, Great Leap Brewing, Migas.
Xi'an: 1 dinner. I've heard about Lao Sun Jia. Can I do better? Shaanxi hand pulled noodles have to be one of my ten favorite food concepts. Big fan of paomo too.
Shanghai: 4 dinners, 3 lunches. Staying on the Bund.
Reserved one dinner at Mr. and Mrs. Bund. Another dinner meeting with people has to be on the Bund, so I'm considering Commune Social/ Table No.1, Mercadito, and M on the Bund for that.
Traditional Shanghai: thoughts between the much written-up original Jesse, Lao Kele, and Jian Guo 328?
XLB: Din Tai Fung for sure (been to Arcadia and flagship in Taipei...have to go here). Should I also try any like Fu De, Jia Jia Tong Bao (not exactly xlb it sounds like), and Yangs?
Other: Considering and would love thoughts on Die Yuan, Butterfly Garden, Cha's, and Fu 1088. Any other suggestions of course appreciated and looking for bakeries and good coffee/espresso too.
Bars: Long list, I won't come close to trying them all: Long Bar Waldorf, Jazz Bar Fairmont, Vue Hyatt, Flair Ritz, Glamour Bar, Alchemist, El coctel, Bar Untouchable, Mojito Heaven, Banyan's Ba, Salon de Ning Peninsula, House of Roosevelt, Boxing Cat Brewery
Cheers and thanks so much for your help!
Greetings Chowhounds of Singapore & Hong Kong! I've been thoroughly enjoying reading the various threads of the past few years on both subjects...what excellent information!
I'm embarking on a 17 day trip in 2 weeks to China (Beijing, Xi'an, and Shanghai). Then 3 nights each in Hong Kong and Singapore. I feel for the sake of space, I'll split the first half in China's cities and the 2nd half into 2 threads...better than cramming everything in 1 thread or making 4 different ones. This will be my first visit to all of these cities, as a diner who lives in SF and also has lived recently in LA and Paris, and spent good time in Tokyo. No need to go to Mozza in Singapore as much as I love it in Hollywood.
The catch on Hong Kong is it is the only leg of the trip where I will be on my own. I know that can make certain restaurants more awkward/too much food ordered but perhaps I can arrange tasting portions beforehand for such places (Tim's Kitchen, Seventh Son, Chairman...)? A little communication maybe can go a long ways...
Here's what I'm working with after lots and lots of reading. Please, please offer thoughts!
Hong Kong (3 dinners, 2 lunch, plus 1 lunch Macau)
Lunch: Won ton soup (Charles, should I do Mak Man Kee or Mak An Kee or one of the others from your list as a first timer?) and Mui Kee Congee
Dessert: Australian Dairy Co.
Others Still thinking About: Bo Innovation, Lung Keen Heen, Yan Toh Heen, Fook Lam Moon, Liberty Private Works, Hoi King Heen, Tung Po, Tim Ho Wan (I do need a good dim sum meal, right?), Tim's Kitchen...
Cocktails/drinks: Honi Honi, MO Bar, Ozone Ritz, Butler Bar, Quinary, Totts or Hooray for a view, Wyndham the 4th
Staying either in Central or lower Kowloon by Star Ferry...still being decided.
Now, Singapore! Wow have I wanted to visit and eat here for years...beyond excited.
3 dinners, 2 lunch: Reserved at Andre for one dinner. Burnt Ends looks very unique and special for another. Hainan chicken-- sounds like Tian Tian despite people adoring it or despising it? Laksa-- 328 Katong Laksa. Then decisions to best enjoy carrot cake, satay, fish head curry, durian, kaya toast...hard to trim the suggestions in various threads. And would love thoughts on other spots that aren't on my radar.
Drinks: Hey, I have to go to Raffles Long Bar for the Singapore Sling and history. Do it once. also, B28, Tippling Club, 28 Hong Kong Street, Jigger & Pony, Cufflink Club, Nektar, Maison Ikkoku, The Library.
Staying in Downtown by Raffles Place.
For both Hong Kong and Singapore, I'm open to all ideas. Great espresso baristas, bakeries, breweries, wine bars...you name it. This will be a special trip and I know it will be even more special because of your help. Many thanks!
Aloha Everyone! Here's my long report from Kauai this month...
Mahalo again for your advice, this was another wonderful trip to Kauai for dining and enjoying the island from Ke'e to Polihale.
Here are my thoughts/new and old spots visited over the course of 10 days. The big winner? Hard to say but Kauai Ono certainly was most unique. Big Loser? Plantation Gardens.
Plantation Gardens: I've always loved the atmosphere, thought the food was decent, and service for the birds. It was exactly as before. No need to go again. Do note, they offer only 2 fresh fish dishes a night...nothing compared to its peers around Poipu.
Kilauea Fish Market in Kapa'a: Great hidden gem. The ahi tuna wrap does live up to the hype. The poke was extremely salty...a bit strange.
Puka Dog: I tried the vegetarian dog for the first time for comparison and since I'm not a fan of their garlic special sauce, I got just the mango relish. The Polish sausage wins and the lone relish needed to be doubled. I'm still not Puka Dog's biggest advocate.
The Beach House: Fortunately stepped up its game with food & service from past years. Must get the beet salad with guava alae smoked salt and just the right amount of truffle oil. I forget the decent fish that came with coconut scented Thai rice but oh was that one of the best sides I've had in recent memory! For fish, get the excellent furikake dusted ahi.
Hamura Saimin Stand: Maybe I've had too much excellent ramen the past year but all of a sudden the Saimin Special went from "special" to "good" for me. Broth was a touch too musty and thin...Still a great experience though and the saimin is by no means not worth ordering. Their won tons aren't my favorite...
Josselin's: I took matters into my own hands and paced the meal in 3 parts. I can't trust their pacing anymore. Lots of good to excellent small plates-- the roasted lamb meatballs, mushrooms w/ bacon, slow cooked butterfish, mahi w/ nori vinaigrette all were highlights. Avoid the pork belly (dry). They need a real dessert menu...no effort put into it compared to the rest of the menu. And above all else, AVOID THE SANGRIA. Boring, watery, off-measured...literally nobody of the table of 5 drank more than 1/2 of their glass.
Lappert's vs Papalani Gelato: Lappert's. Papalani's flavors just aren't as powerful, the texture a bit chalky. Can you really beat Lappert's Kauai Pie?
Roy's: Like Beach House, stepped up its game and was better than probably last 5 visits. The new highlight was either a beautiful crispy fried Brussels sprouts starter or entrée of grilled Singapore peppercorn crusted opah w/ fried tofu, snow peas, and shiitakes. Classics like the blackened ahi, misoyaki butterfish & chocolate souffle all were on the mark.
Still love those li hing mui and taro chips from Taro Ko in Hanapepe. Not a fan of Kauai Kookie (does anyone taste guava in the guava mac nut flavor?).
For coffee, Living Foods is always decent (and their cookies are way more than decent). However I really enjoyed the new Little Fish Cafe in Hanapepe. This is a treasure, please visit!
Poke and fresh fish to grill-- hard to beat Koloa Fish Market.
Didn't get a chance to try Jean Georges or Roy's in Princeville. I did sample a few drinks but no food at Tiki Iniki. Drinks were good...none were great. The Mai Tai in my view tied the Grand Marnier version at Waiohai's Honu Bar and Tahiti Nui. The others felt it was a step down.
In terms of my Mai Tai fatigue...I admit to having ordered Negronis at the end of the trip I was so tired of Mai Tais being juice and rum.
Really enjoyed Nani Moon Meadery in Kapa'a, Kauai Island Brewing, and the new Kauai Brewing in Lihue. All are really showing some great strength. I'm excited to see their growth.
Lastly, Kauai Ono. I love the concept. First and foremost as mentioned by other posters: beware of mosquitoes. My family got drilled by them. It's true everything everyone says, rain or dry.
Lots of great tastes as always...mahalo nui loa Kauai!
Quick update thus far—loved the ahi wrap at Kilauea Fish Market in Kapa'a...even convinced the family next to me on the plane to go thereand sure enough they showed up right after we finished lunch. Excellent poke there too.
Superb fish from Koloa Fish Market...monchong needs to be better known.
Plantation Gardens & Kauai Ono reservations set...they will join Beach House, Josselin's, and Roy's for dinners out.
Also tried Anahola Granola for the first time--we need that imported to CA! Also now a fan of Hanalei Poi Co but my family keeps calling me crazy.