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anneinparis16's Profile

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Markets in the 1st - help!

Agree re rue Montorgueil/rue Montmartre area. Because it was near the old Halles (the central wholesale food market, now moved to Rungis near Orly airport), there are lots of traditional restaurants, restaurant /cooking equipment shops; patisseries and food shops plus the market , and the area has recently become foodily fashionable again. For example the Librarie Gourmande (food, cooking and wine bookshop) is there. This isn't an area for haute cuisine, but is lots of fun! And you can eat well!

Jun 12, 2009
anneinparis16 in France

Suggestions for Sunday in Paris

For dinner, the big traditional brasseries near the main railway stations are open seven days a week - just take a taxi! Terminus Nord is a big glitzy traditional art deco brasserie and it and other brasseries near the railway stations serving Normandie and Brittany (where the northern seafood ports are) still have good seafood - but be careful with raw fruit de mer in hot July Paris weather.

Jun 12, 2009
anneinparis16 in France

Where to picnic in Paris, if at all?

I think picnicking at the Bagatelle would be definitely unusual. People certainly do sit on the grass at the Jardins de Ranelagh - I don't remember seeing piccnickers though.. But a picnic on chairs and benches somewhere like the Tuileries would be lovely. We also used to picnic on the dog-free islands (the number of Parisian dogs makes grass picnicking problematic so these dog-free spots are great!) in the Lac Inférieur in the Bois de Boulogne, but there now seems to be a no picnicking rule - not sure how or whether it's policed....And there's a cute little punt to take you across to the islands (for a fee). We avoid the Chalet des Iles - just walk to the left, over the little bridge to the far island. I've even seen people with their cats there - on leads of course!

Jun 12, 2009
anneinparis16 in France

Put Away the Darn Camera

I have been known to photograph food - my own - or on occasion my spouse's. But I think the flash should be left off! And as for bringing a plug-in printer........

Jun 12, 2009
anneinparis16 in Features

Breton restaurants in Paris?

We found a great informal restaurant in southern Bretagne a couple of years ago - the specialities are oysters and whole grilled lobster (homard) with frites! They have a branch in Paris - L'Ecailleur du Bistrot in rue Paul-Bert in the 11th arrondisement. Homard-frites are nearly as good as in Nevez!!

Jun 09, 2009
anneinparis16 in France

Best food region in France for 5 days?

We're off to Bretagne to do precisely that for two weeks in July. A couple of years ago we had a week on Belle-Ile off Quiberon and had a glorious time - we had a house so we bought and cooked the local seabeasts - a stunning lobster comes to mind - and lunched our way through the island's restaurants. And wandered all over the very small island, finding that we like it so much we need to go back!

Re M Roellinger (where we ate possibly the best meal since moving here again in 2005), he has only closed his Cancale haute cuisine restaurant. His other Cancale businesses, including Chateau Richeux and its 'less formal' restaurant, his spice comptoir and dessert/sweet goodies shop and his gites are all still going. As is his cooking school. And I heard he's opened a store in Saint-Malo.

Jun 09, 2009
anneinparis16 in France

Paris Report

You did classically well!

One thing I'd add for your next trip are "real" Paris markets and food streets - eg Marche Aligre, or rue Montorgeuil and environs.

There are two sorts of markets in Paris - local covered markets (we have one very close here in Passy and - joy!! - it's open six days a week) and "marchés volants (flying markets) which are open in particular locations two days a week until 1pm. Examples are the Marche Grenelle (Wednesdays and Sundays under the overhead metro line between Lamotte-Piquet-Grenelle and Dupleix metro stations) and the Marche St Charles (Tuesdays and Fridays on rue St Charles south of Charles Michels metro station) - both in the 15th arrondissement. Most of these markets will have a "food street" with permanent shops close by - for example the rue Cler in the 7th, the rue d'Annunciation at Passy, the rue Lourmel at Dupleix.

Another suggestion would be to try French regional cuisines - for example, Breton (seafood), Basque (more seafood, and piments d'Espelette (mild chiles), Normandie (seafood, cream and apple); Sud-Ouest (foie gras, confit de canard) and I could go on.... Paris abounds in excellent examples of all these and more.

And above all, don't try to do too much and don't waste your holiday in queues! Enjoy!

Jun 09, 2009
anneinparis16 in France