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Large family group requires dining advice in Venice
I have not spent much time in Treviso, only a couple of day trips from Venice. Couple years ago, had very good lunch at Le Basilisco; food creative rather than traditional, very good ingredients. We had a house made charcuterie plate with pickled vegetables, warm octopus salad with bean puree; secondi of veal liver with crispy onions and potato and red wine braised beef cheek serve with a terrific radicchio tart; and a great version of tiramisu. Think was about 70 euros for two including a bottle of raboso. Friendly staff but the decor is sort of mish-mash modern. A previous visit, we had lunch at Antica Portico; fine for an informal traditional lunch. Not expensive at all.
Ice cream in Venice
My favorite gelaterias in Venice for different flavors: sadly I am hardy ever in Venice when ripe peaches and melons are in full season. The first three are my favorites.
Il Doge: Crema del doge, pistachio, stracciatella (especially if they scoop from the top where all the chocolates are), chocolate fondante (the case inside the shop has the dark chocolate flavors),\;the M&M boys are great people.
Lo Squero: texture is softer than most of the other' Bacio, pistachio bronte, nocciola, chocolate (not their chocolate fondante which has a very pronounce bitter orange flavor which I don't care for);
Le Mele Verde: amareno with almonds if one like heavy duty cherry, stracciatella, fiore de latte
Nico: peach (probably made with canned peaches but still good), malaga
Alaska: pistachio, fragola; the rest nothing special
Ca D'Oro: nocciola, any chocolate
Paolin: only the lemon
Designers: I hesitate to spend at least twice (or more) as much for a single as the above. Occasionally, I've given in:
Venchi: it is a chocolate maker, therefore, all the chocolate flavors are excellent
Vizio Virtu: sell by the 100 gram and in cups only; has only 6 revolving flavors and some very unusual combinations which I am not a fan of; rich and intense. Too precious for me. The two shops, one for chocolate confections and ice creams the other pastries and tea are worth a look.
I like Grom and at 2.5 euro for two flavors, not bad but I still don't understand the constant lines at both of their shops.
Large family group requires dining advice in Venice
40 to 50 euros before wine will allow your party to eat at some of the better restaurants in Venice. Keep in mind that 'wonderful' is very subjective and that Venetian cooking, especially seafood can be quite simple, even at the best places. Some diners hesitate or wonder why a trattoria charges 25 euro for a simple grilled whole sole. For most places, the seafood antipasti are almost as expensive as the secondi, therefore, no problem in sharing them. Except for the smallest places such as Alle Testiere, no harm in calling a restaurant that you are especially interested in.
Open Sunday and Mondays:
Fiaschetteria Toscana and Al Covo. FT is a very traditional Venetian restaurant with a large menu. There has been some mixed feedback on this board but we had a good meal with friends a couple weeks ago. Will post a write up with others shortly. It is somewhat more formal but not stuffy than others. If you decide, make sure you reserve on the ground floor. If they put you in the second floor because of the size of your party, personally, I would decline as the room is very bland and service there can be hit or miss. Al Covo is a little more informal and cozy with a varied menu of a few traditional options and some a bit more creative .Both would be about 50 euros for a three course meal.
The rest should be cheaper but most are not inexpensive.
Alla Vedova is a very homey and friendly osteria serving simple food. They are better known for their cichetti but the traditional food is good and not expensive.
Il Refolo is an upscale pizzeria but also has a full menu. Unlike most other pizzerias, food on the non-pizza menu is very good. The inside is very small but should accommodate your party if you want to sit outside on the secluded campo next to a small canal.
Open Sundays but not Mondays:
Bancogiro has a good number of tables outside in the loggia facing the Grand Canal. The second floor dining room consists of three alcoves, which one should be able to accommodate 15. The cooking is probably the most creative on this list but nothing too far out.
Da Rioba’s inside seats about 40 and has outside seating on a wide residential canal. Beside the seafood, the menu has some good meat choices as well as some creative primi. Two other good options are the nearby Orto dei Mori and Anice Stellato. Neither is very large with only a few outside tables. I mentioned them because we had very good meals there recently. No harm in trying for a reservation. For all four, should be able do 3 courses for about 40 euros.
Da Alberto is warm, friendly with good traditional Venetian cooking (nothing creative. Because it’s moderate cost, it is very popular.
An above post recommended Taverna San Trovaso is a large bustling restaurant with a comprehensive menu (something for everyone). They are use to serving large groups. I found the food to be somewhat generic and the total experience is nothing special though have not been there in a number of years. It might be a good choice if budget is a consideration. A three course meal should not cost much more than 30euro, a good value for Venice.
You will find a good number of tourists in just about any good restaurant; that is the nature of Venice. None of the above places are large, therefore, I would reserve once you decide. Because of the small kitchen, some may not offer your party the full menu options. Rather than everyone order their own, a good option is to see they would serve your party platters for sharing. If they do, chances the meal will cost less.
Looking for International Market and Best Coffee Beans in Venice
If you are looking for fresh horseradish, I have seen it sometimes at the produce vendor on the corner of Campo C Battisti Bella Vienna off the Railto Market. It is a permanent stall next to the Muro wine bar. It is only produce vendor that carries some 'exotic' items such as fresh cilantro, ginger, fresh chilies, etc.
Large family group requires dining advice in Venice
Many of the larger restaurants will have no problem serving 15 people if one make reservations early enough. Other than looking for places that serve seafood as well as other options, assuming that you are not looking for places that are too formal, it would be helpful if you can give some idea of what your budget is. The other difficulty is that many good places are closed Sundays or Mondays or both.
Looking for International Market and Best Coffee Beans in Venice
The big supermarket Billa at Strada Nuova and the Zattere should have mustard powder and prepared horseradish. Drogheria Mascari on ruga degli Spezieri near the Rialto market for sure. Also, one of the better and larger alimentari, Pane Rizzo on San Leonardo will.
If you are looking for cups of dark roasted coffee to drink in cafes, I can't think of many. The only place that actually roast coffee in Venice proper is Torrefazione Marchi (sometimes call Costarica as the above post). They sell excellent dark roasted beans (single origin as well as blends) but only serves espresso in their standup bar, one of the best in Venice. Caffe del Doge on calle dei Cinque, sells very good beans though not roasted on premise. They also serve French press coffee. This branch in San Polo is the only one actually own by the roasting company, though many cafes use their coffee.
One day in Venice
Most eating places around the Frari are informal cafes and such. One of the better option of this type is Muro Vino e Cucina Frari (just 2 minute walk), a comtemporary space with large menu of pizza, antipasti, primi, salads; good but nothing earth shattering. Better options are about 10 minute stroll up to Campo San Giacomo dell'Orio where there are Alla Zucca and il Refolo. Aside from pizza, Il Refolo has a few good vegetarian antipasti and primi options; should be able to do lunch without a reservation. Better if you have your hotel call that morning.
Also good near San Marco are Osteria Enoteca San Marco. Despite being so near to the mob scene, it has a front wine bar serving good ciccheti and back dining room. Not inexpensive but they are serious about food. Also Osteria ai Assassini, similar but more traditional and less expensive. If you are considering da Alberto the first night, I would make a reservation as it is small and always packed.
If you are taking the 4:30 train, make sure to allow plenty of time. Things always take longer for first time visitors. A five minute walk can turn into 30 minutes if one takes a wrong turn. Cp Santa Maria Formosa is not the most convenient for the vaporetto and quite a long walk to Santa Lucia. Unless you are lunching near your hotel or taking the water taxi, I would finish lunch no later than 2;30.
One day in Venice
Not many restaurants near Campo Santa Maria Formosa that meet your criterias. Most restaurants serving traditional Venetian cooking will have a couple vegetarian dishes on the antipasti and primi sections of the menu but rarely as a secondo. The best on your list that is nearby your hotel is da Alberto, lively, warm with good food. The other two, Al Mascaron and it's bacaro Al Mascareta (tight tables and I believe still open only evenings) are nearby but I am not big fan; overpriced, indifferent service, just ok food. Al Bacareta is similar to da Alberto but a bit of a trek. Bancogiro is very good; the food is a bit more creative; outside terrace facing the Grand Canal (among the other next door neighbors) or a cozy second floor alcove. It is just a short walk if you take San Lio to the Rialto Bridge. I would skip Ostario Garanghelo. The traditional food is still pretty good but it has nothing to offer for vegetarians. Acuigheta has a large menu of decent food and throughout the day; the best choice for informal around San Marco. I would use it as a fall back if jet lag sets in. Not many good bacari in the neighborhood. I would recommend Cavatappi behind San Marco. It has a few outside tables (the weather is great right now in Venice). As for snacks, you will have no problem finding as it is the speciality of the neighborhood. There are a couple of pleasant terrace places right on the Campo.
Lunch: Al Covo is not a bad choice since one can order just one or two courses that will not tax the patience of a 2 year old. As stated by an earlier poster, there are a few tables outside but inside is very pleasant. Even though Venice is packed right now with visitors, shouldn't have problem getting a lunch reservation; closed I believe Wednesdays.Or I would pick the fall back, Aciugheta and sit outside if possible.
I am sorry that I can't be of more help as I am not as familiar with that area of Venice as others. A lot more choices if one can venture a little further.
One Week in Paris, Gluten-Free and Pregnant
Some chefs do not use flour/starch in fruit base hot souffles. Just fruit puree, egg yolks and meringue. Also chocolate flavor, just ganache, egg yolks and meringue.
VENICE - Lunch / Dinner open on Sunday? In S. Croce?
Not many choices for Sunday in Santa Croce; if you don't eat seafood, the above mentioned pizzerias are your best choices. For both, lunch service ends at 2:30pm. A branch of Muro Pizzeria con Cucina on Campiello delle Spezier is pretty good. Besides pizza, there are a lot of other choices. Pleasant outside seating on the campiello. I think it is open throughout the day.
Summer dinners in Santa Croce VENICE
I have not been to Osteria Mocenigo da Guido e Luca; the other three places all have outside dining. Nono Risorto and Il Refolo are basically pizzerias, though both have other choices. Santa Croce does not have a lot of restaurants. Depending on where you are at in Santa Croce, might just as convenient to San Polo and Dorsoduro. Must you be confined to Santa Croce? and what is 'too expensive'? A 3 course at Antiche Carampane is around 50euros.
Venice -Romantic w/view, BD dinner & Last Meal
Below is another link to a recent post on romantic Venice.
http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/836898
And also take a look at the links at the end of this post.
Cicchetti in VENICE
There is no one way how cichetti eating is done if Venice. In general, I have found the staff in most bacari and front bar of restauras to be uniformly friendly and speak enough English to be helpful. Some bacari, especially those around the Rialto such as Al Merca, All'Arco, Bancogiro serve very simple things such as small sandwiches, crostini, panini, couple of meatballs, etc and most of the eating are done standing outside. The food is lay out on the counter for one to see and choose. On these, generally, just order something to drink, a couple of things to eat, pay and enjoy them outside. Go back and order more if one wants more. do Mori is simiiar but has good size inside area. The food is mostly different crostini in platters behind the counter. In this case, it depends on if the staff is familiar with you; as a visitor, one usually pay after ordering a drink and choosing the food. Regulars pay at the end or use a credit system.
Other places such as al Bomba, Alle Vedova have a wide selection behind a counter. Choose a few items and will put them on a plate (warm them if necessary). Generally pay when one is finished.
Bacari such as La Cantina serve plated food, usually cured meat/cheeses, raw fish, oysters. One order by weight or by pieces and will served. Pay when finished. Some places such as do Spade, there is a small menu carte or a blackboard.
Try not order too much to start; order more as you go. Just go and enjoy yourselves. When in doubt just ask; the staff is uniformly friendly and most speak some English.
Bofinger
Definitely one of the main draw of Bofinger is sitting in the main dining room. Under no circumstances that one should be eating in the upstair dining room, big, bare, claustrophobic low ceiling and noisy.
Barcelona April 17th through 22nd
Maybe we have a different definition what is cheap. Yes, crustaceans are expensive; so are many fish: tuna, swordfish, wild seabass. And I don't agree with you that monkfish is cheap; not the last time I shop in Barcelona. There are still some inexpensive seafood out there: sardine, mackerel, squid, anchovy, many farmed fish. But try buying tuna, swordfish, wild turbot. Good olive oil, vinegar, dried beans are not inexpensive. I don't expect more because ordinary olive oil, decent vinegar are what most everyday cooking is all about. But there is a big different if one is using the finest olive oil rather than simple everyday oil.
And for labor: being family owned certain help cut down the cost, so is the lease or ownership of a property. But if one truly top notch food, one has to spend more on labor. At Can Mano, there are two women cooking for the whole dining room, serving probably 150 covers for the evening. They are excellent but they are pumping out dishes after dishes. I happen to love olive oil and don't mind swimming in a dish and it not a criticism of the cooking. Just a comment for those who might prefer a little less.
Barcelona April 17th through 22nd
Cafe de L'Academia is situated right in the middle of the Barri Gotic as well as near the Parliamentary building; its gets fair amount of visitors but by no means ' touristy'. Pleasant ambience and good food. It is true that one can eat well in Barcelona without spending lots of money. But like San Francisco, great ingredients do not come cheap and same for labor. Can't expect great food at a bargain in most cosmopolitan cities without some compromises. Can Mano is one of those simple, inexpensive places that one can get good everyday food; not everything will be great and some can be a bit heavy and douse with olive oil; more like sausage with bean, fried sardines, braise squids, simple pork cutlet; a full meal for two with their house wine can be had for about 20euro, so don't expect high quality seafood, etc but everything will be fresh and cooked to order. I prefer these places to the more expensive kiosks in the Boqueria.
Smart to skip Los Caracoles. Stop by on your stroll in the Barri Gotic to check out the place. It has history. Have a great time.
Bofinger
My opinion on Bofinger is the same is yours. It is always there when needed. My favorite place after the L'Opera Bastille. The food actually improved after the Flo group took it over. And also spent a mint to bring the neglected decor back to its beautiful current state. The prix-fixed menu of oysters, some simple plate and a chocolate dessert is not bad for 30 something euros. The waiter are crusty but truly efficient.
Duck No 1108912
Thank you for such a wonderful descriptive post. I feel absolutely ancient. Went there in 1979 and our number for the Caneton Tour d'Argent was 561040. I love the whole tableside service, the ceremonial presentation of the semi-roasted duck, the pressing, the legs sent back for further roasting and served as a separate course. Just curious, did the captain steered you into ordering the quenelles and asparagus with truffles? I remembered our captain suggested what we should ordered for our entrees: the quenelles and scrambled eggs with truffles.
May 2012: Thoughts (and help) on my choices for Rome, Florence & Venice
For Venice: there is no problem if your husband does not eat fish, cheese or certain vegetables. There are plenty of shellfish and most places will have some meat dishes for a main plate as well as other vegetables.
As for your choices, if you are looking for "solid choices" and a little local flavor of Venice during your two day visit, neither Harry's Bar or Il Refolo fit that. Both are 'safe' choices if money is not an issue and offer a sense of being "exclusive". Nothing more need to written about Harry's Bar that has not already been written. If your husband loves Cipriani in NYC (I have not been, therefore, can't compare the two except they are own by the same) and insist on it, it will make him feel like just being in NYC. It is always packed, therefore, they are doing something right.
Il Refolo is a glorified pizzeria with some good antipasti, couple of primi and secondi and mostly seafood based. The outside secluded terrace is pleasant, especially at night when there are no boats loading crates to the nearby Coop Supermarket. There are better and less expensive pizza in Venice because one is not paying for the Martin name. Why come to Venice to eat pizza. I would choose Santa Marina over it. Excellent Venetian cooking with non-fish choices, very good service and outside campo seating.
Cicchetti in VENICE
mbfant pretty much sums up cichetti eating in Venice. At early dinner time of 7pm, you should be able to find good eating at many bacari as well as the front bar area of trattorie/osterie that serve cichetti. If you want to hit more than one, I would go the area around the Strada Nuova in Cannaregio: La Cantina (open until 10pm), the front area of alle Vedova, al Bomba, ai Promissi Sposi. Also places around the Fondamenta Misericordia. This area is quite lively, at least for Venice, in the evenings.
Another area good for midday is around the Rialto market (not Sundays and Mondays). This area have some of the most atmospheric bacari in Venice. Some open early to cater the workers while other open around 11:30am. Just about all are standup only: do Mori, All'Arco, do Spade, Al Merca, Bancogiro. Not good in the evenings.
There are many good bacari as well as front bars for cichetti scattered all over Venice. I wouldn't make a special trip to any of them but great if one is in the area especially during the day as some close by 8:30pm: Cantione gia Schiavi (great wines, friendly owners and atmosphere), Vini di Padanvi, ai Quatro Feri, da Gino in Dorsoduro, Al Prosecco on Campo San Giacomo dell Orio in Santa Croce with outdoor seating is one of the most pleasant during the day. So is Bancogiro on the loggia near the Rialto market.
Barcelona April 17th through 22nd
Sant Joan is lunch only and no weekends. You should be able to eat at most pintxos/tapas places for 50 to 60 euros for two. Exceptions are those that serves molecular style/fusion such as Tickets, Comerc24, Santa Maria. For seafood, go to La Paradeta or the little more upscale Mar de la Ribera in El Born. For everyday cooking besides Sant Joan, try La Cova Fumada or Can Mao or Can Mano if one truly want to eat with locals in Barceloneta. El Convent and Ca Estevet in El Ravel. All are much better and cheaper than Los Caracoles which I have not been. It truly has a reputation for catering to visitors and tour groups because of it's historical ambience in the Barri Gotic; definitely not for the food as the earlier poster wrote. Fonda Gaig is a good restaurant serving updated traditional Catalan cooking but it is not inexpensive, about 50e for 3 courses. "Only if it's really good" depends on the individual. It is not 'expensive' by Barcelona standard and I don't think it will 'blow anyone away'.
Il Ridotto: The Best Place to Eat in Venice
Thank you for the heads up. This is a very old thread; the last post that has any relevance is two years ago. Others considering Il Ridotto in the near future might find your post useful.
Sauc in its new location?
The food has not change much, still excellent. The price has gone up some (now there is a third expensive tasting menu), the ambience more designer (no more of the dark purplish color dining room) and the service is fine tuned but not stuffy. Anna Donate, chef Franco's wife, is still in charge of the dining room. If you have not eaten at there before, my advice is to take one of the two shorter menu unless you have a giant appetit. His food is quite rich and portions are generous.
2.5 day Venice Itinerary - suggestions welcome
For an excellent dining experience with a menu mix of seafood and non, can't do much better than Al Covo; also Osteria Santa Marina. Last year, had a couple of very good dinners at Al Paradiso in San Polo; nice ambience, friendly owner and little more creative food (nothing too far out). All about same in term of cost.
More moderate is Anice Stellato, da Rioba, Orto dei Mori; Bancogiro’s menu is small but always has a couple of good non-seafood secondi. For very traditional with terrific wines is Vini di Gigio. Less expensive are the traditional Ostaria Garanghelo in San Polo and Al Bacareto.
2.5 day Venice Itinerary - suggestions welcome
Alle Testiere can be loud as it is very small, about 24 seats with very little space between tables. Antiche Carampane is larger, more comfortable with outside terrace seating on a very quiet calle. Alle Testiere gets a lot of writeup on this board and I like it very much but it is by no mean head and shoulder above many other good places. Many places that are not seafood specific have very good seafood including those from the lagoon that should be in season. Think moleche, canoce, tiny baby scallop with roe, spider crab. From my experiences of eating in Venice for more than 20 years, it does not have great restaurants such as those in Paris, NYC, etc. The good places are basically trattorie/osterie with their quirks and off nights. What makes Venice special is Venice itself, therefore, don’t expect your eating itinerary to be perfect. There is so much more than sitting inside a stuffy restaurant two meals a day. There is outdoor sitting in the campos or snacking in bacari where the real Venice still exists. Pick good and convenient places and try not to have sky high expectations.
I would consider Al Covo traditional with a little creativity. The menu has a few traditional items such as saor, bigoli, frito misto as well as others with a twist. Definitely nothing unusal or far out.
I agree with jen kalb that Murano and Burano with lunch at Venessi will probably take up most of the day. Things always take longer in Venice. Try not to hurry and whisk from one sight to another.
As for Friday morning, nothing wrong of taking breakfast in the hotel. There are not many food choices in Marco Polo Airport. I would pick up something at a nearby bakery or go to Punto supermarket for rolls, cheese, cured meat. Or drop by at a nearby bacaro and have a couple cichetti.
2.5 day Venice Itinerary - suggestions welcome
If your mother does not eat seafood, I would skip Alle Testiere. Just about every item on their daily changing menu has seafood (except maybe a primi). I am sure they will cook some vegetable dishes but I just don’t think they will be good enough for our mom. As for Antiche Carampane, from the numerous times eating there, I have never seen any non-seafood item on their menu. Since you found them on their website, maybe I wasn’t reading carefully. I have not eaten at Il Ridotto but someone stated on another post that they will do a non-seafood menu. It might be a better choice. The ambience will be different as both Alle Testiere and Antiche are both trattorie: simple, lively and crowded; also the cooking more creative at Il Ridotto. One can find excellent in many non-exclusive seafood places such as Anice Stellato, Fiaschetteria Toscana.
Just to clarify jen kalb, we have an apartment near Campo San Polo where we spend a couple months each year. As for Friday breakfast in Dorosduro, hearty breakfast is not big in Venice and there are not any high-end hotels nearby. I would get a flavor of Venice by going to a bacaro such as Al Bottegon/Cantinone gia Shiavi or Da Gino for some crostini/panini; or Pane Vino e San Danieli for excellent prosciutto and such. All have table seating. Or outside terrace seating at Al Chioschetto on the Zattere. There are couple of seat down cafes near the Accademia and on Campo Santa Margherita open early for coffee, pastries and snacks. Nothing right on Campo San Barnaba.
With your elderly father, Jen kalb’s advice of not packing too much is good. To see Venice requires a lot of walking. The vaporetto and traghetto are great but they just park on the docks of the Grand Canals or the islands. The rest is walking to get to the various sites. For example, just walking from the vaporetto stop at Torcello to get to the church is a bit of a distant.
Getting to Celler can Roca from Train Station?
Except for breakfast, I have not eaten at any place in Girona (other can Can Roca). If you haven't been to Girona, I would take an early train to Girona, the morning to see the rmedieval part of the city, then stroll to the restaurant. The walk from the old city to the restaurant is much more pleasant then from the train station. The last lunch we had, we didn't get out until 5pm, therefore, not much time left in Girona unless you are staying for the night. I would just train back to Barcelona and spend the evening there.
Getting to Celler can Roca from Train Station?
About a 30 minute walk, much of it non descript. You can go the tourist office (located 5 minutes from the train station in the old town next to the river) and ask for a city map and direction. Or maybe Goggle map will do. Otherwise, taxi as there is no bus servfice to the restaurant.
