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10 days in Buenos Aires

Ok, let me preface this by saying I had MUCH better food on the second leg of my journey in Peru. Maybe it's just personal taste, but I found the food in BA rather bland, generally under seasoned for my gringo palate. That said, we did have some memorable meals, and there a few places I'd definitely return to next time around.

On the parilla front, we only made it to two big names: Don Julio & La Cabrera. I'd absolutely recommend Don Julio (lots of locals, high quality of meat, what a parilla should feel like, even if in a toursity neighborhood). The food at La Cabrera was definitely good (maybe the best chorizo sausage I've ever had, and the blood sausage was awesome too), but not good enough to justify the throngs of tourists it attracts. Again, at both parillas I appreciated the quality of meat, but even with the addition of the bright chimichurri, I still wanted my beef to be better seasoned. Biggest parilla regret was choosing to go to La Cabrera instead of Parilla Peña.

A lesser known parilla that we found - to extraordinary results - was Don Lechon. Not sure if it's even correct to call it a parilla; more like a cafe with a grill in the back. We were visiting an artist in Colegiales, and he and his wife backed up my hunch that this place was legit. The suckling pig was obviously wonderful, but shockingly, I also had one of the most memorable chicken breasts of my life (we were steaked out by this point). Why so memorable? Pounded thin and thrown on the grill, I had prepared myself - mentally, physically, and otherwise - for a dried out bird. Not so! This thing was so moist that I had to take a picture with the grill master. This guy was such a pro - my new Argentinean hero. If you eat here, get the suckling pig and surprise yourself by ordering the chicken. Nothing fancy, but a great "light" lunch if you're in the hood.

Pizza in Argentina lived up to the hype. One late night/morning we had a fugazetta somewhere at a place I can't recall, but it was awesome; another night we had the fugazetta and the napolitana at El Cuartito, and it was even awesome-er. Really, really great pizza. Definitely do El Cuartito if you're looking to try some Argentinean pizza.

Tried to go to La Cupertina for empandas, but unfortunately it had closed permanently. Ended up at El Sanjuanino and wasn't all that impressed. Their best offering was the fried version. We had better empanadas at random side street cafes throughout the city.

Last must eat for our group was the choripan, their version of a sausage sandwich that you can customize with all the accessories a stomach could ever handle. We walked a really long way along in Puerto Madero before settling on the Mi Sueño food truck. I'm sure there are better ones out there, but by this point, this more than did the trick. Makes for great late night food too.

Other Odds & Ends
We stayed in Palermo Hollywood, and this little cafe called Oui Oui was right by our apartment, so we ended up there for a couple lunches. Think there are two locations nearby - surprisingly, really good. Had a great roast beef sandwich here with perfectly fried potato wedges. Lots of other light offerings too. Cute place, trendy crowd, reasonable prices.

Places to Avoid
I'd definitely suggest avoiding El Preferido de Palermo. Lousy food, lousy service, not really anything to see here, although the people watching is half decent if you're just drinking a couple beers outside. And I'd also skip NYTimes-reviewed Tegui. Yeah, the space is cool, but you don't come to Buenos Aires for fine dining, and you'll regret wasting a meal here. If, for some reason, you ignore my advice, you can do worse than starting with their strawberry gazpacho (not at all sweet).

Feb 25, 2012
telichte in Latin America & Caribbean

10 days in Buenos Aires

Hey everyone,

I'm 5 days out from my trip to Buenos Aires, and here's my most recent list. Appreciate any and all feedback, especially with regard to a puerta cerrada (Casa Felix isn't open while I'm there, so I'm in need of another suggestion). Thanks!

Parillas:
Parilla Pena
La Cabrera
Desnivel
Miranda

Other:
Preferido de Palermo
El Cuartito (pizza)
Cumana (emapandas)
El Sanjuanino (empanadas)
Fierron Hotel (brunch)
Paraje Arevalo
Las Pizzaras

Jan 22, 2012
telichte in Latin America & Caribbean

10 days in Buenos Aires

Thanks, jjo. Parilla Pena is definitely a must go for me, but I'm still torn about Cabana Las Lilas. Seems like reviewers are split. I planned on skipping Osaka because I'm in LA so often for work, but if their ceviche is as good as you describe, guess I'd be crazy not to include (I'm also doing a week in Peru). Can't wait for the reviews, emodrama.

Dec 23, 2011
telichte in Latin America & Caribbean

10 days in Buenos Aires

Hi, Emodrama. I'll be in BA at the end of January and wanted to hear you about top picks. Anything to report?

Dec 18, 2011
telichte in Latin America & Caribbean

Current recommendations around Dubrovnik

I'm also heading out to Dubronvnik. Anyone have any suggestions? Please, help...

Nov 26, 2009
telichte in Europe

Best Gyros?

You're right - they did do doner kebabs. Bread was out of this world.

May 07, 2009
telichte in Manhattan

Best Gyros?

Manhattan's best gyro used to live on the UES around 94th until the 2nd ave subway killed the place. Was called Kebap. In the E. Village I like Kebab Garden, but my new favorite--still undiscovered place--is Lezette. Not sure how everyone feels about this, but they don't use a spit. The gyro is made fresh every day and cooked in a skillet with onions, etc. It's out of this world.

May 06, 2009
telichte in Manhattan

Going to Paris for my 1st time in May - What do you think of my "food itinerary"?

Chamorro,

Incredibly thorough review! Thanks for all the help and advice. My lunch at Taillevent is booked for the beginning of the trip, so all should be well. Anyone have suggestions for Bruges or Portugal?

I know, I know...wrong board. But you people do seem to know your food!

Jun 15, 2007
telichte in France

Going to Paris for my 1st time in May - What do you think of my "food itinerary"?

Will do. Thanks!

Jun 05, 2007
telichte in France

Going to Paris for my 1st time in May - What do you think of my "food itinerary"?

thanks, haapi. do i need a reservation for 404?

Jun 05, 2007
telichte in France

Paris' Best Restaurants Revisited

Thanks everyone for the thoughtful advice. I'm now leaning toward a lunch, either at Guy Savoy or Taillevent. And Souphie, please do let me know how your lunch goes, and if anyone else has experienced either, would love to know which to book. Thanks again!

Jun 04, 2007
telichte in France

Paris' Best Restaurants Revisited

So I'm an NYCer going to Paris with my dad in a few weeks. I've read and re-read the boards and could not be more confused. We'll be there for 5 days and are staying at the Hotel Mayfair on Rue Rouget de L’Isle. We'd love some recommendations for great local casual within walking distance but also for at least one muti, Michelin-starred restaurant.

At first I thought it should be Taillevent for dinner, then I was persuaded to think it should be Guy Savoy for lunch. And now I'm thinking it should be Plaza Athénée, L'Ambroise, or Pierre Gagnaire. What gives?

To say that I'm confused is a gross understatement. We don't want stuffy and we don't enjoy heavy, but we do want an amazing dining experience that we'll remember for the rest of our lives. Please help! And if you know of any, please throw in some bistro or other suggestions around our hotel. Have heard good things about 404 and Le Florimond.

So many thanks!

Jun 03, 2007
telichte in France

Going to Paris for my 1st time in May - What do you think of my "food itinerary"?

Chamorro, what was the verdict on all the above? I'm a NYCer going to Paris for 4 nights at the beginning of July. Had a lot of the same ideas you did with the N. African addition of 404.

What did you like/dislike? How was dinner at Taillevent? Should it have been a lunch?

Sincerely,

Lost, confused, and indecisive.

Jun 03, 2007
telichte in France