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newhaven maven's Profile

Trip Planning: Restaurant Feedback (Orvieto, Montalcino, Castellina, Bologna)

Oops--a typo. I meant, of course La Volpe e L'Uva in Orvieto.

Trip Planning: Restaurant Feedback (Orvieto, Montalcino, Castellina, Bologna)

Just now saw the post---it may be too late for your September trip. But I wanted to sing the praises of La Volpe e Lupa, one our favorite modest trattorias in Orvieto. They do all the classics right--and are very welcoming. Their Umbrichelli (the local fat spaghetti) with truffles is terrific. Unfortunately, Asino d'Oro is closed, replaced by a new place we've not yet tried. I also like Etruca, but La Pergola, and La Palomba are better, I think--the food fresher and more fully flavored. And both are filled with locals, families especially, having a good time. We had a really good meal recently at Trattoria La Grotta---and the service couldn't have been more friendly. We were dining with my wife's 85 year old mother, and they treated her like a queen. Don't miss Pasqualetti for wonderful gelati---two shops one across from the Duomo and one on Corso Cavour, the main street of Orvieto.Try the pink grapefruit gelato--amazing!

Passadis del Pep in Barcelona

We just got back from Barcelona and a wonderful meal at this well regarded restaurant. people often disparage it in favor of it's sister Cal Pep, but I think it deserves equal billing. If only because you get the same wonderful seafood tapas, but with a reservation! finding the place is a bit of an adventure--down an alley off a Placa, but once there and seated the food starts coming. And it's all wonderful. If rather exotic. I didn' grow up familiar with or loving shell fish-so almost everything was new to me--seas snails, anyone? or fried baby sardines that taste like the best french fries. After some 8 or 10 plates, you are asked if you want a main course. You can stop there--but we ordered the monkfish--perfectly cooked and redolent of garlic. At meal's end they bring you local liquers--we had green apple and a sort of limonata. the house wine is, remarkably, on the house. Not to be missed.