Ingredients

Salsify and scorzonera

Other Names: Barba di becco (Italy), black oyster plant, black salsify, mock oyster, Oyster plant, salsifis (France), viper’s grass.

General Description: Salsify (Tragopogon porrifolius) and scorzonera (Scorzonera hispanica) are two closely related plants in the Compositae family. Salsify is a hardy perennial native to the Mediterranean region with long, edible white roots. Scorzonera is a close cousin with long, edible, black roots and artichoke-like flavor and texture. Both salsify and scorzonera are rare in American markets nowadays, although in Thomas Jefferson’s time, salsify was common. In the U.S., scorzonera is imported from Belgium, which is the world’s largest producer of this black root.

White salsify has pale tan skin, resembling thin parsnips with thin, often forked roots covered with scraggly rootlets. Salsify can be found growing wild
in both North America and the Mediterranean. Scorzonera is a perennial popular in central Europe with black-skinned roots resembling a long muddy brown stick that may be somewhat slimy with a creamy-colored interior. Its name comes from the Spanish for a venomous toad or lizard, and it was also known as viper’s grass for its supposed ability to fight venom.

Season: Salsify is available in the fall and winter. Scorzonera is available in the winter and spring.

Purchase: Choose firm, full roots. Scorzonera roots are naturally sticky, or even slimy.

Avoid: Pass up limp roots.

Storage: Store the roots wrapped in plastic for up to 2 weeks in the refrigerator.

Preparation:

Note: If your hands get discolored from working with the roots, clean with vinegar and salt.

Scrub scorzonera under running water with a brush. Salsify will likely only need to be lightly scrubbed.
Cut off and discard tops and the portion of the tail that is thin and fibrous.
Peel using a vegetable peeler.
Place in a bowl of water with lemon juice to prevent darkening. Scorzonera exudes a sticky substance that is removed when washed.

Note: Both roots go quickly from tender to mushy, so cook gently by poaching or steaming rather than boiling.

Serving Suggestions: Roast cut, peeled lengths of either root tossed with olive oil and fresh herbs in a 400°F oven for about 20 minutes, or until somewhat shriveled but tender. Braise chicken with scorzonera along with onion, mushroom, and stock and finish with a little lemon juice. Sprinkle cooked roots with Parmesan cheese, roll in thinly sliced prosciutto, and briefly bake in a hot oven till the prosciutto crisps.

Flavor Affinities: Bay leaf, butter, cream, hollandaise sauce, lemon, mushrooms, nutmeg, orange, prosciutto.