General Description: Arugula (Eruca sativa) is a member of the Brassica family. Native to the Mediterranean region, arugula grows wild throughout southern Europe. A close relative of the radish, arugula has slender, multilobed leaves that resemble elongated oak leaves and have a mild bite with a mustardy tang. The young, milder leaves can be eaten raw, while older, spicier leaves are cooked and added to soups and sauces. Its Latin name, Eruca, means “caterpillar,” and it describes the plant’s hairy stems. The explosive hot-mustard quality of late-season arugula may be the reason it is known as “rocket salad” in Britain.

Arugula has many levels of intensity—mild if greenhouse-grown or heavily irrigated, extremely peppery if grown in a lot of sunlight. Baby arugula from California, sold cut and washed, is generally milder, though it has a tendency to turn yellow in a few days. Field-grown arugula is stronger and may be extremely sandy. Hothouse arugula picked when very young is often added to mesclun or spring mix salad greens.

Arugula from local farms is often sold in bunches with the roots attached. This arugula has thin, easily bruised leaves and may develop rot where the bunch has been rubber-banded together.

Season: Arugula is available year-round, but is more plentiful in late summer. When grown in very hot weather, arugula will have a strong biting taste and will be extra vulnerable to spoilage.

Purchase: Look for bright emerald green leaves that are delicately crisp, and stems that are neither withered nor slimy. Leaves that are 2 to 3 inches long will generally be young and tender.

Avoid: Avoid arugula with yellowed or limp leaves. Avoid any arugula with a strong, unpleasant odor.

Storage: Loosely wrap arugula in damp paper towels and place in a plastic bag. Refrigerate for up to 3 days.

Preparation:

Cut off and discard the stems. Discard any yellowed or bruised leaves.

Place the leaves in a large bowl of cold water and swish around vigorously to release the sandy soil the arugula was grown in.

Gently lift the leaves out of the water. Drain and spread out on paper or cloth towels to dry.

Serving Suggestions: Purée leaves with olive oil, garlic, pine nuts, and grated hard cheese to make a pesto that can be used as a dip for crudités, a pasta sauce, or a sandwich spread. Serve in a salad with roasted beets and baked goat cheese and balsamic vinaigrette. Add arugula to sandwiches.

Flavor Affinities: Beets, goat cheese, mozzarella, nuts, olives, pancetta, pasta, roasted peppers, tomato, vinaigrette.