Ingredients
Radish
General Description: Radishes (Raphanus sativus) are root vegetables in the Brassica family. The sharp, biting flavor of radishes ranges from the juicy crispness of red globe radishes to the pungency of turnip-shaped black radishes. They were first cultivated thousands of years ago in China, then in Egypt and Greece. In the U.S., radishes are usually eaten raw; however, they can also be briefly steamed, sautéed, or stir-fried. Their green tops are edible and lend a peppery taste to salads. Growers classify radishes by shape—round, oval, oblong, and long—while markets frequently label them by color.
Black radishes are turniplike in size and shape, with dull black or dark brown skin. When peeled, their flesh is white, pungent, and drier than other radishes. Daikon radishes are native to Asia and are cucumber-shaped. Their white flesh is juicy and hotter than red radishes but milder than black ones. French breakfast radishes are shaped like small carrots with red skin tapering to white at the root end and white flesh. They are mild tasting and juicy.
Korean radishes are large, jade green, squat radishes that are juicy with sweet-tasting flesh that ranges from green to white. Red globes are the familiar small round or oval “button” radishes and have solid, crisp flesh. Red globe bunch radishes are sold complete with their greens. Bagged radishes have had their tops removed and keep better but aren’t as fresh.
Watermelon radishes are about the size and shape of black radishes with green outer skin and pink to red color radiating out from the center. They are sweet and crunchy. White icicle radishes are long and tapered with white flesh that is milder than red radishes.
Season: Red and white radishes are sold year-round with peak season during the spring. Black radishes, which have a long shelf life, are at their peak in winter and early spring. Daikons are most flavorful in fall and winter, though they are available all year.
Purchase: Look for fresh, bright radishes that are firm, well formed, tender, and crisp with a smooth, unblemished surface. If the tops are attached, they should be fresh and perky. Choose radishes that feel firm when gently squeezed. Check bagged radishes to make sure they are free of mold and excessive cracking. Black radishes (often sold in Russian or Polish neighborhoods) should be solid, heavy, and free of cracks. Daikon and Korean radishes should be evenly shaped and firm, with a glossy, almost translucent sheen.
Avoid: Pass up radishes with growth, cracks, cuts, pithiness, or yellowing. If the radish gives to pressure, the interior will likely be pithy instead of crisp.
Storage: If you’ve bought radishes with their leaves attached, remove the tops unless you’ll be serving them the same day. Radishes will not keep as well with their tops left on. Place radishes in a plastic bag if they are not already packaged. Red radishes and daikons will keep for up to 2 weeks in the refrigerator. Black radishes can be stored for months if they remain dry; store them in a perforated plastic bag in the refrigerator.
Preparation:
- Wash radishes in cool water.
- Trim off the stem end and tip.
- Peel, if desired. The skin contains most of the enzymes that give radishes their mustardy tang. Daikons have a very thin skin that can be removed with a vegetable peeler, if you wish.
Serving Suggestions: Steam shredded daikon alone or with shredded carrots, then dress with vinaigrette made with rice wine vinegar, sesame oil, and chopped cilantro. Stir-fry sliced radishes or matchsticks of daikon, being careful not to overcook so that they retain most of their crispness. Cook black radishes as turnips—the heat will tame their rather harsh flavor. Serve fresh young radishes, preferably French breakfast, with sweet butter and salt. If the leaves are fresh and green, cook them like other greens or use in soups—they have a peppery taste similar to arugula.
Flavor Affinities: Chicken livers, chives, lettuce, mild fish, mint, scallions, scallops, smoked salmon, sweet butter, vinaigrette.
from Quirk Books: www.quirkbooks.com
