General Description: Sweet basil (Ocimum basilicum) is one of the most beloved of all herbs because its sweet, clovelike aroma is so appealing. Basil originated in Iran, Africa, and India and was well-known in ancient Egypt, Greece, and Rome. In Italy basil symbolizes love—a woman would leave a pot of basil in her window to indicate to her lover that he was welcome. However, for the early Greeks and Romans, basil was a symbol of hatred. Basil is said to derive its name from its use as a magical cure against the terrifying basilisk, a mythical Greek half lizard, half dragon creature with a fatal piercing stare. The herb is still considered a cure for venomous snake bites in parts of Europe and Britain, and in Africa it’s believed to protect against scorpions.

Sweet basil has an ineffable flavor reminiscent of anise, clove, and mint. Although its aroma is heady, the flavor of most varieties is mild and sweet enough that it can be used in abundance. Dried basil loses much of the sweet delicacy and subtlety of its fresh counterpart, with a spicier, clove-mint flavor that works best in long-cooked sauces.

There are more than 50 species of basil, differing in size, color, appearance, and flavor, and even more cultivars. Large-leafed sweet basil is the variety most commonly used in the kitchen. Holy basil (O. sanctum) has an intense, pungent aroma and attractive, deep purple blossoms. Sacred in India, it is often planted around Hindu shrines. Genovese (or bush) basil (O. minimum) has small leaves with mild flavor and is used for classic pesto. The highly aromatic basil napoletano is grown in the region of Naples, Italy, and has large, rounded, light green, crinkled leaves; a sweet fragrance; and a mellow, rich flavor. Purple ruffled basil (O. basilicum ‘Purple Ruffles’) has a mild, pleasing flavor and deeply colored ruffled leaves that are attractive in a salad or as garnish. Strikingly beautiful dark opal basil (O. basilicum ‘Purpureum’) is deep purple with smooth leaves and a minty flavor.

Thai basil (O. basilicum ‘Thai Queen’ and others) has slender oval leaves with purple stems and blossoms. Because only cooking fully releases its exotic peppery flavor, this type is not eaten raw, but added in generous amounts to stir-fries and spicy soups. Cinnamon basil (O. basilicum ‘Cinnamon’) has a distinct cinnamon fragrance that complements Southeast Asian dishes. Refreshing lemon basil (O. citriodora) and lime basil (O. americanum), both from Thailand, and anise-scented basil (O. basilicum ‘Anise’), from Persia, may be found. Curly (or lettuce-leafed) basil (O. crispum) has leaves almost as large as lettuce and may be added to salad or used to wrap fish before steaming.

Season: Basil is best in summer months, when field-grown basil is available. Hothouse basil is available and satisfactory most of the year. Look for Thai holy basil in Southeast Asian stores and at farmers’ markets. Look for flavored basil plants at garden stores or buy flavored basil in bunches at farmers’ markets.

Purchase and Avoid: For powerfully fragrant basil that will last, choose field-grown basil. It may be very sandy and should be washed thoroughly. In hot weather, basil can become bitter and harsh, especially after flowering.

Sometimes local basil is sold roots and all; this type may be replanted in soil. For kitchen use, cut away the roots, wash the branches, and spin dry before storing.

Hothouse basil is more tender, less fragrant, and more fragile than field-grown, but makes the brightest green pesto because its leaves crush easily. Avoid basil that is wilting or that has dark spots, a sign of overchilling, or slimy dark-colored leaves, a sign that the leaves have spoiled.

Storage: Basil is quite tender and perishable. To store, trim the stems, pull off any lower side leaves, and stand the bunch in a jar with enough cool water to just cover the base of the stems. Leave at room temperature for 2 to 3 days, changing the water daily. Alternatively, wrap the basil in paper towels and place in a plastic bag. Refrigerate in the warmest part of the refrigerator—usually under the light or on the top shelf—for 1 to 2 days.

Note: Basil blackens easily when bruised or cut, especially if the knife is dull or made from carbon rather than stainless steel.

Serving Suggestions: Make basil chiffonade (shredded basil) by layering washed and dried leaves, rolling into a cylinder, and slicing crosswise into thin strips using a sharp knife. Toss with olive oil, diced ripe yellow and red tomatoes, red onions, and fresh mozzarella, heat gently, and toss with capellini. Add torn Thai basil to pad thai, a noodle dish with shrimp, bean sprouts, and toasted peanuts. Process together softened butter with chopped garlic and basil. Spread on split Italian bread, wrap in foil, and bake to make garlic bread.