Ingredients
Turtle
Other Names: Caguama (Mexico); schildkröte (German); tartaruga (Italian); tortue (French); tortuga (Spanish). Cheloniidae (sea turtle), Eemydidae (freshwater turtle), Testudinidae (tortoise).
General Description: The turtle is an ancient four-limbed reptile topped with a hard shell that lives on land and in the sea and fresh water. Freshwater turtles live and are eaten in most regions of the world. Terrapins are freshwater and salt-marsh turtles; tortoises are land turtles. The diamondback terrapin (Malaclemys terrapin_), from the Chesapeake Bay region, is reputed to be the best for eating and for its eggs, though it is illegal to eat in many places in the United States. The leatherback turtle (Dermochelys coriacea_) has eggs that are regarded as an aphrodisiac. The loggerhead turtle (Caretta caretta) is used to make a famous Maltese stew called stuffat tal-fekruna_. There are seven surviving species of large slow-growing sea turtles, all of which are endangered. Early explorers on long voyages captured live turtles and kept them on board for food as needed, especially the Caribbean green turtle (Chelonia mydas_), still a favored island meat. Sea turtle soup became a standard in English cookery. Today in America, snapping turtle (Chelydra serpentina) is used for soup.
Locale and Season: Snapping turtles live in freshwater in the Western Hemisphere only. Diamondback terrapins live along the American Atlantic and Gulf coasts. Soft-shelled turtles live in freshwater in Africa, America, and Asia. Tortoises are found in Africa, Asia, Europe, and the Americas.
Characteristics: American snapping turtles can be dangerous to handle. They account for about half the turtles eaten in the eastern United States. They average 15 to 25
pounds and can live in a wide range of freshwater habitats. The calipee and calipash found inside the green sea turtle impart the characteristic gelatinous quality to British turtle soup. The calipee is a light yellow, fatty gelatinous substance in the upper part of the shell; the calipash is a dull green similar substance found in the lower part of the shell. Connoisseurs judge whether turtle soup is authentic by the lumps of calipash and calipee it contains. Because sea turtles lay their eggs in deep holes on shore, they are vulnerable and the eggs are illegal to eat in most places.
How to Choose: Snapping turtle has the texture of frog legs or lobster. The four legs and the tail are dark meat; the neck and back straps are white meat. The meat is sold semi-boneless and boneless and is frozen. Asian soft-shelled turtle is found for sale, also frozen, but may be from illegal species.
Storage: A live snapping turtle should be kept in a tub of clean water for 1 to 2 weeks, changing the water every few
days until it remains relatively clear.
Preparation:
Because of the complicated purging, cleaning, and preparation involved, many feel that turtle soup should be purchased rather than making it at home.
The best results are obtained by parboiling the meat until it can be easily removed from the bone.
Suggested Recipe: Turtle Soup with Sherry (serves 6): Melt 1/2 pound butter in a heavy pot, add 1 cup flour, and cook, stirring frequently, over medium heat until the roux is light brown. Set aside. In a large soup pot, melt 2 tablespoons butter and add 1 pound diced turtle meat. Brown over high heat, about 8 minutes. Add 1 cup each diced onions and celery, 2 teaspoons chopped garlic, 3 bay leaves, 2 teaspoons dried oregano, and 1 teaspoon dried thyme and cook until the vegetables are soft. Add 1 1/2 cups tomato puree and simmer 10 minutes. Add 1 quart rich beef or veal stock and simmer 30 minutes. Add the roux by the spoonful until the soup is thickened. Season with salt and pepper, add 1/4 cup lemon juice and 1/2 cup chopped parsley, and serve. Garnish with sliced hard-cooked eggs and sherry.
Flavor Affinities: Bay leaf, brandy, butter, celery, cream, egg, garlic, lemon, onion, oregano, thyme, tomato, white wine.
from Quirk Books: www.quirkbooks.com
