Ingredients

Gooseneck barnacle

Other Names: Balano, lepade cornucopia, pico (Italian); balanus (Turkish); felsen-entenmuschle (German); fujitsubo (Japanese); lamperna (Basque); percebe (Spanish); perceve (Portuguese); pouce-pied (French); stidóna (Greek). Scalpellidae.

General Description: The odd-looking gooseneck barnacle is a crustacean that attaches itself to rocks exposed to heavy surf. Two species, Pollicipes cornucopia and Lepas anatifera, grow in the same region and are prepared and eaten the same ways. Both have a tubelike appendage with dark, parchmentlike skin covered with tiny scales. The barnacles are topped by a pair of hooflike, bony white pads, from between which emerge the creature’s edible feet. Barnacles are usually found in groups attached to rocks and are said to be most easily harvested at full moon when the tide is low. Demand for them in Portugal and Spain is so great that they have become rare. A similar species (P. polymerus) is found on rocky cliffs on the Pacific Northwest coast, where they were a delicacy of native people.

Locale and Season: Gooseneck barnacles are found in the Mediterranean and close-lying areas of the eastern Atlantic. Spaniards prize those from Galicia in northwest Spain. They are in season in summer but are most in demand for Christmas. They are farmed in Washington state and harvested in limited amounts from the wild in British Columbia and are considered to be best in summer.

Characteristics: Gooseneck barnacles have a strong but pleasing taste of the sea. If the waters are relatively calm, the barnacles grow long and thin; when rough seas batter the rocks, they grow short and stubby and are considered to have the best texture and fullest flavor. These are also the most dangerous to gather. American gooseneck barnacles are fatter and less intense in flavor.

How to Choose: Choose barnacles with a strong but sweet ocean smell. Spanish barnacles have a red fringe around the shell plates. They must be alive.

Storage: Store up to 1 day refrigerated topped with a damp towel to keep them moist.

Preparation:
1. Thoroughly rinse barnacles, rubbing gently to dislodge any sand.
2. Boil briefly in salted water, or steam until firm.
3. Eat only the inner tube: Pinch the outer skin near the upper hoofs and pull it off. Inside is the edible part, a white, stalklike protuberance. Bite this off whole. When removing the skin, a bit of staining orange liquid sometimes spurts out, so take care.

Serving Suggestion: Gooseneck barnacles are steamed in their shells above stock or seasoned wine for about 10 minutes, then peeled and served hot, allowing about 1 dozen per person, eaten as is or with drawn butter for dipping.

Flavor Affinities: Bay leaf, butter, coriander, lemon, mustard, oregano, paprika, parsley, thyme, white wine.

from Quirk Books: www.quirkbooks.com