General Description: Dungeness crab (Cancer magister) is one of the Pacific Northwest region’s greatest delicacies. Dungeness, with its sweet, moist flesh and briny tang, has extraordinary flavor and buttery richness. Dungeness is usually eaten right out of the shell, though crab Louis, crab cakes, and cioppino are also traditional. Dungeness crabs have been harvested off San Francisco Bay since 1848, and the crab industry is considered to be the best managed in terms of sustainability.

Locale and Season: Dungeness crab is found from Alaska to southern California. In Alaska and British Columbia, peak season is late spring and early summer; Washington and Oregon follow, and California is later.

Characteristics: Live Dungeness crabs are reddish-brown with short, thick legs. They weigh an average of 2 pounds. When cooked, the shell turns orange and the cooked meat will be opaque white with reddish-brown areas on the outside. The meat is sweet, flavorful, and semi-nutty; the leg meat is firmer than the rich body meat.

The internal organs of Dungeness crab may contain a natural toxin that can result in paralytic shellfish poisoning (PSP), so do not eat them.

How to Choose: Live crabs should be active in a holding tank and have bright shells. The back should not be cracked, and all legs should be attached. Local crabs harvested by small day boats, which return to shore every day, are best. Frozen crab is available but not desirable. Avoid lightweight crabs, which have been harvested before they can refill their shells after a seasonal molt. They are known as “air crabs” because they contain so little meat.

Storage: Store refrigerated in a perforated container over a second container to catch the drips and completely covered in crushed ice for up to 1 day before cooking.

Preparation:
1. Scrub the crabs with a brush and rinse thoroughly.
2. To cook live 2- to 21/2-pound Dungeness crabs, boil in seasoned water for 18 minutes, or until brightly colored all over, drain, chill in an ice bath, and serve on newspapers, allowing one crab for every two people.
3. To clean whole cooked Dungeness crab, hold the crab with one hand and place the thumb of other hand under the shell at its midpoint to lift off the shell.
4. Scrape out and discard the orange-colored soft organs and the feather gills. Rinse the crab thoroughly under cool, running water.
5. Grasp the crab in both hands and break in half. Pull off the legs.
6. Crack the shell with a small meat mallet to expose the meat. Remove the meat using the tip of the leg shell, a small pick, or a fork.
7. Serve crabmeat in seafood stews, soups, sautés, and salads; in bisques, creamed dishes, and casseroles; or crack and serve with homemade mayonnaise.

Suggested Recipe: Oven-Roasted Dungeness Crab (serves 4): Preheat the oven to 500°F. In a large, heavy, ovenproof skillet, lightly brown 1/4 cup chopped shallots, 2 tablespoons chopped garlic, 2 teaspoons hot red pepper flakes, and 1 tablespoon each chopped thyme and marjoram in 1/4 cup each extra-virgin olive oil and butter. Add 2 large boiled, cleaned, and cracked Dungeness crabs, sprinkle with salt and pepper, turn and roast 12 minutes, or until sizzling, then transfer to a platter. Add 1/2 cup orange juice and 2 tablespoons Pernod to the skillet; boil until syrupy, about 5 minutes, and spoon over crabs.

Flavor Affinities: Artichoke, bell pepper, butter, cilantro, cucumber, garlic, marjoram, olive oil, orange, oregano, Pernod, red onion, shallot, tarragon, thyme, white wine.