Ingredients

Squid and cuttlefish

Other Names: Squid: Akkar (Norwegian); calamar (Spanish); calamaro (Italian); gewöhnlicher kalmar (German); gewone pijlinktvis (Dutch); ika (Japanese); kalamári (Greek); lübje (Turkish); lula vulgar (Portuguese). Ommastrephidae (summer squid); Loliginidae (winter squid). Cuttlefish: Blekksprut (Norwegian); choco (Portuguese); inktvis (Dutch); jibia, sepia commún (Spanish); ko-ika, ma-ika, mongoika (Japanese); sèche (French); seppia (Italian); sepya (Turkish); tintenfisch (German). Sepiidae.

General Description: Squid have a fleshy, cigar-shaped, soft body with two fins on either side. A thin, transparent, flat, pen-shaped “bone” lies inside its body, and it has ten arms, two of which are long tentacles. There are more than 300 squid species worldwide, though only a dozen represent
90 percent of the harvest. Giant squid, over 100 feet long, are rumored to live in the depths of the Atlantic Ocean. The long-finned or winter squid (Loligo pealei_) is preferred for its finer, more tender meat to the less expensive, coarser, short-finned or summer squid (Illex illecebrosus_). The Pacific squid (L. opalescens) is highly appreciated on the West Coast. Squid absorbs water quickly and should not be marinated more than overnight (refrigerated) or the meat will
soften. Squid defend themselves by shooting dark ink at intruders. The ink is a salty, black liquid that makes an excellent flavoring. When heated, squid protein becomes firm rapidly and then turns chewy until long cooking breaks down the muscle, so squid should either be cooked briefly, no longer than three minutes, or simmered or braised no less than twenty minutes.

The closely related cuttlefish (Sepia officinalis) is also a ten-armed mollusk with a body larger and wider than the squid, so it is meatier, with narrow fins and obvious teeth. Its ink sac is larger than a squid’s and the ink darker and more abundant. The ink was formerly used to make sepia pigment. Baby cuttlefish, called seppioline, are prized in Venice for risotto.

Locale and Season: Squid and cuttlefish are all wild-caught. Squid are found in all the world’s oceans. Long-finned squid are in season inshore from April to September and offshore (a much larger catch) from October to March. Shortfinned squid are abundant from May to October. The
roe may be present in females. Cuttlefish are harvested all over the Mediterranean, the west coast of Africa, northern Europe, and Asia, but they are not found in North America. Cuttlefish are best in spring and summer.

Characteristics: Young squid, as little as 1 inch long, are sought after for their tender texture and mild, delicate flavor and may be cleaned, then cooked whole. Large squid are
often tough, will have a more pronounced flavor, and are best suited for stuffing and braising. Cuttlefish range in size from 2 inches to 2 feet. A thin, purplish brown membrane covers the bodies of both squid and cuttlefish and is usually removed. Cleaned squid and cuttlefish will be bright white. The meat is tender and sweet as long as it is not overcooked. All parts of squid and cuttlefish can be eaten except for the eyes, mouth area, inner organs, and the clear, hard “bone.” The cuttlefish’s large ink sac ruptures easily and will usually be broken by the time of purchase, but the ink rinses off easily.

How to Choose: Because fresh squid and cuttlefish spoil quickly, be especially attentive when purchasing them. Choose fresh squid with a clean, sweet smell and bright eyes.
When properly frozen, both squid and cuttlefish will retain flavor and texture. Squid have usually been frozen and defrosted when sold at retail and may be purchased already cleaned. Choose cuttlefish that quickly change color when poked, darkening from brown to black, and that are glossy, sweet-smelling, and somewhat translucent. Frozen or bottled squid ink is sold by specialty suppliers.

Storage: Defrost frozen squid or cuttlefish in the refrigerator and use within 1 day. Refrigerate in a bowl and keep extra-cold by covering with a freezer gel-pack enclosed
in a plastic ziplock bag for up to 1 day after purchase.

Preparation:

1. To clean whole squid, pull the head and everything
that comes along with it from the body tube, including the clear, hard bone. Slice the head across just in back of the eyes and discard everything in back of the eyes. Reserve the head. Cut off and save the tentacles at the front of the head if desired, cutting them into smaller pieces or leaving them whole if the squid are small. To clean cuttlefish, place the knife over the hard cuttlebone that can be felt inside the body. Slice open to reveal the cuttlebone. Push back the skin and remove the cuttlebone. Slice across just behind the eyes and discard all the innards.

2. Push the head in, popping out the hard “beak.” Discard the beak. Pull off the grayish membrane, leaving only shiny white meat. Rinse well on the inside and drain.

3. Cut off, skin, and reserve the side “fins.”

4. Drain, rinse, and pat dry to cook immediately or marinate up to overnight refrigerated.

5. Slice the body into rings for salad or frying, or leave
whole to stuff, or cut in half, turn inside-out, and cut shallow crisscrosses into the inner flesh for grilling. Cuttlefish tentacles are usually small and left whole. Serve squid raw in sashimi. Stew in wine, steam, stir-fry, sauté, or dip in batter or crumbs and deep-fry, or marinate and grill. Marinate cuttlefish strips and then grill briefly over high heat. Make black pasta or risotto using purchased squid ink.

Suggested Recipe: Crunchy Spiced Calamari (serves 4): Soak 2 pounds cleaned sliced calamari in 1 cup buttermilk mixed with 1 tablespoon chopped garlic up to overnight refrigerated. In a large bowl, mix together 2 tablespoons chili
powder, 2 tablespoons paprika, 1 tablespoon ground cumin, 1 teaspoon black pepper, and 2 cups all-purpose flour. Heat 1 quart canola oil to 365°F, or until shimmering hot. Drain the calamari and toss with the seasoned flour. Shake in a sieve over a second bowl so excess flour is shaken off. Fry, without crowding, until crispy, about 6 minutes. Drain on paper towels, toss with fine sea salt, and serve.

Flavor Affinities: Chili powder, cilantro, cumin, garlic, ginger, lemon, lime, olive oil, onion, paprika, parsley, rosemary, scallion, sesame, shallot, thyme, vinegar, white wine.

from Quirk Books: www.quirkbooks.com

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