Ingredients
Octopus
Left to right: medium (Spain), baby (Taiwan)
Other Names: Ahtapot (Turkish); devilfish; gewöhnlicher krake (German); khtapodi, oktápous (Greek); kraak (Dutch); ma-dako tako (Japanese); moscardino, polpo di scoglio (Italian); pieuvre, poulpe (French); polvo (Portuguese); pulpo (Spanish); sprut (Russian). Octopodidae.
General Description: Octopuses are cephalopods with eight tentacles. There are more than 140 species of octopus found in temperate and tropical waters around the world. The common octopus (Octopus vulgaris_) is found in cooler waters worldwide. The large red octopus (O. dofleini_) is
found in cold waters of the northern Pacific. The white spotted octopus (O. macropus) is found in the Mediterranean and temperate waters worldwide. Floppy and grayish pink with suction-cupped tentacles, a large raw octopus resting on ice can look pretty scary. Many biologists consider octopus to be the smartest of all invertebrates, with the same intelligence as a house cat. All parts are edible, except for the eyes, mouth area, and inner organs, although the tentacles are the most tender. Once poached for tenderizing, octopus can be grilled briefly, giving it a lightly charred flavor. Because of its natural gelatin, octopus can be made into a terrine simply by cooking and weighting it.
Locale and Season: In the United States, octopus is harvested in California and Hawaii. The primary octopus suppliers are the Philippines, Thailand, and Korea. Octopus is in season year-round.
Characteristics: Octopus bodies are covered by a thin, gelatinous layer of purplish-black spotted skin that may be removed. The raw meat is translucent and cream-colored with
a pink tint. The cooked meat is smooth with a firm, satisfying bite and full-bodied flavor. Octopuses lose about half their weight in cooking, so allow 1 pound of raw octopus per portion.
How to Choose: Fresh or frozen raw octopus is usually purplish in color and most commonly found at 3 pounds. Choose fresh octopus that is glistening and lively looking with a clean, pleasing smell. It’s best to purchase octopus already cleaned. In America, much octopus is sold frozen, because it is so perishable.
Storage: Fresh and defrosted octopus is highly perishable and should be cooked within 1 to 2 days. Once cooked, the octopus will keep well for another 2 to 3 days.
Preparation:
1. Simmer a 3- to 4-pound octopus in broth for about
1 hour. Don’t boil and don’t overcook. Poke the thickest portion with a skewer; if tender, it is done.
2. Rub off the pinkish gelatinous skin if desired.
3. Grill, simmer in sauce, dress for salad, or cool and
weight for a terrine.
Suggested Recipe: Grilled Octopus Salad (serves 6): Poach a 2- to 3-pound cleaned octopus in court bouillon (broth flavored with onion, celery, thyme, white wine, lemon zest, and black pepper) for 1 hour, or until tender. Drain, cool, peel, and cut into small pieces. Combine 1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil, the juice and grated zest of 1 lemon, 2 tablespoons red wine vinegar, 1 teaspoon each dried oregano and hot red pepper flakes, 2 teaspoons chopped garlic, and salt and pepper to taste. Toss half the dressing with the octopus and
marinate 1 hour, refrigerated. Drain, then grill the octopus until lightly charred. Toss with 1/4 cup kalamata olive halves, 1/2 cup diced red onion, 1 diced cucumber, and 1 cup diced fresh tomatoes, and the remaining dressing.
Flavor Affinities: Bay leaf, capers, cured olives, dill, garlic, lemon, olive oil, onion, oregano, pomegranate, red onion, red
wine, red wine vinegar, thyme, tomato, white wine.
from Quirk Books: www.quirkbooks.com
