Ingredients
Wrasse
Tautog
Other Names: Ballan wrasse: Ballach (Irish); berggylte (Norwegian); durdo, maragota (Spanish); labre, vieille (French); lippfisch (German); lipvis (Dutch); margota (Portuguese); sweetlips; twrach (Welsh). Floral wrasse: Akatenmochino-uo (Japanese); bungat, maming (Filipino); cá mó (Vietnamese); damelfish; parrotfish; see fa (Thai); tsing yi (Hong Kong). Tautog: Austernfisch (German); black porgy; blackfish; bodião da ostra (Portuguese); chub; matiote, tautogue noir (French); oyster-fish. Labridae.
General Description: There are about 450 species of wrasse mainly found in tropical waters. Although they do not have high culinary reputations today, in Roman times, wrasse were prized, perhaps for their vivid coloring. Ballan wrasse
(Labrus bergylta_) are eaten in Scotland and Ireland, though they are considered by some to be insipid or coarse. Floral wrasse (Cheilinus chlorourus_) are a Southeast Asian member of this family, usually sold live for high prices in Hong Kong and steamed whole. Hogfish (Lachnolaimus maximus_) are colorful tropical fish with three distinctive long spines at the front of their bodies. The large, delicious California sheephead (_Semicossyphus pulcher) is a Pacific wrasse
occasionally caught or speared by sport fishers and sometimes seen in California retail markets. The plump, black calico tautog (Tautoga onitis) is a large member of the wrasse family. Tautogs are found near the mussel beds on which they feed. With its firm texture, tautog is often used for chowder on Cape Cod.
Locale and Season: Ballan wrasse range from the Mediterranean to Norway. Floral wrasse range from eastern Africa to the western Pacific, as far south as northern Australia. Hogfish are found on the north coast of South
America and the northern Gulf of Mexico to Bermuda and North Carolina. They are common year-round in shallow waters off Florida and the islands of the Caribbean. California sheepheads may be found from Monterey Bay to Baja California. Tautog range from Nova Scotia to South Carolina
and are more abundant between Cape Cod and Delaware Bay.
Characteristics: They average 8 to 10 ounces in weight. Their sweet, delicate white meat is sold fresh and frozen. The fillets are small, 3 to 4 ounces each. Hogfish have been
linked to ciguatera poisoning. Tautogs weigh up to 25 pounds, with 3 pounds average. They have lean, white, firm, and delicately flavored flesh with tight, white flake. Yield is 40 percent.
How to Choose: Select brightly colored fish with shiny skin and clear eyes. California sheepheads are seldom found in retail markets but are a popular sport fish.
Storage: Store whole fish up to 2 days refrigerated. Store fillets up to 1 day refrigerated.
Preparation:
Remove the bitter-tasting skin from tautogs before
cooking.
Steam, poach, bake, sauté, pan-fry, or use for fish
soup, sandwiches, or tacos.
Suggested Recipe: Island-Style Hogfish Sandwich (serves 6): Soak 6 hogfish fillets (about 1 1/2 pounds) in 1 cup buttermilk seasoned with salt, pepper, and 1 teaspoon hot
sauce for 1 hour. Drain and dredge in cornmeal. In a large heavy skillet, preferably cast-iron, heat 1 cup canola oil until shimmering. Shake off excess cornmeal and pan-fry the fish until well-browned, 2 to 3 minutes on each side. Drain on paper towels. Split open 6 (6-inch) sections of French baguette bread and spread each side with 1 to 2 tablespoons tartar sauce. Layer the fish, tomato slices, and lettuce leaves on the bread.
Flavor Affinities: Apple, bay leaf, butter, capers, celery, chervil, chives, cider, dill, lemon, lime, key lime, marjoram, onion, parsley, shallot, tarragon, teriyaki sauce, thyme, tomato.
from Quirk Books: www.quirkbooks.com
