Ingredients
Sturgeon
Other Names: Chôzame (Japanese); esturgeon (French); esturión (Spanish); esturjão solho (Portuguese); mersin baligi (Turkish); mouroúna stourióni (Greek); steur (Dutch); stør (Danish, Norwegian); stör (German); storione (Italian). Sevruga sturgeon: Pustruga (Bulgarian); sevryuga (Russian); storione stellato (Italian). Beluga sturgeon: Mersin morinasi (Turkish); morun (Romanian); moruna (Bulgarian). Green sturgeon: Sakhalin or sterlyad sturgeon. Acipenseriadae.
General Description: Sturgeons are huge armored fish that are one of the oldest creatures on Earth, remaining unchanged for 300 million years. These fish have a combination skeleton with cartilage and rows of sharp, bony plates known as “buttons” along their bodies. They are renowned as the source of caviar. European sturgeon (Acipenser sturio_), rare today, was relatively common in the Mediterranean in ancient Greek and Roman times. Sterlets (A. ruthenus_) are small, rare, freshwater fish that may venture into salt water, with good-tasting flesh and excellent caviar. The pointy-snouted sevruga sturgeon (A. stellatus) is most abundant in the Azov Sea. The rounded, plumper beluga sturgeon (Huso huso) is most abundant in the Caspian. Belugas are on the endangered list in the United States, so their prized caviar cannot be imported.
White sturgeons (A. transmontanus_), the largest freshwater fish in North America, can reach up to 2,000 pounds. Called belusa when farmed, these firm, white-fleshed fish are raised indoors in recycled well waters. Only white sturgeon and the lesser green sturgeon (A. medirostris_) are still harvested. The three main species of sturgeon used for aquafarming internationally are white sturgeon; Italian sturgeon (A. naccaril), found only rarely in the wild; and Siberian sturgeon (A. baeri).
Locale and Season: Some European sturgeons live on France’s Gironde River, others in the Black Sea, and a few in the Mediterranean, but they are quite rare. Sterlets are found in the Black and Azov Seas and in Siberia. White sturgeons inhabit large Pacific Northwest rivers. Farm-raised white sturgeons are available year-round from California. Wild sturgeon is in season in summer and fall.
Characteristics: Most sturgeons sold in the United States are farm raised white sturgeons. They have firm, dense meat
similar in texture to veal. Raw sturgeon is pale pink and cooks up white with a tendency to dryness. The tough skin is not edible. Yield is 50 percent.
How to Choose: Wild sturgeons can vary greatly in flavor depending on diet and whether they are caught in fresh or brackish water. Green sturgeons (not as highly valued for the table), with orange flesh, may be sold as white sturgeons, which are actually light gray. Farmed sturgeon is sold as skinless fillets that weigh 2 to 3 pounds each. Look for bright, shiny, moist fillets.
Storage: Store sturgeon steaks refrigerated for up to 2 days.
Preparation:
1. Cut into thin slices like veal scaloppine for quick sautés; cut in chunks for skewers or stews; cut into fillet portions for pan-searing, grilling, or broiling.
2. Broil, grill, sauté, pan-sear, or hot-smoke.
Serving Suggestion: Substitute sturgeon for any veal recipe, such as veal piccata or veal Marsala.
Flavor Affinities: Capers, caviar, chives, dill, cream, lemon, Madeira, mushroom, onion, parsley, pine nut, shallot, sour cream, tarragon, thyme, tomato, veal stock, white wine.
from Quirk Books: www.quirkbooks.com
