Ingredients
Smelt
Other Names: Candlefish; capelin; cucumber fish; éperlan (French); eperlano (Spanish); eulachon; grunion; jacksmelt; korjuszka (Russian); kyûrino (Japanese); nors (Swedish); sperlano (Italian); spiering (Dutch); stint (German); whitebait. Ammotidytidae.
General Description: Smelt (Osmerus mordax_) live most of their life in salt water but migrate to lakes and streams to spawn. These small, silvery fish get their name from an Anglo-
Saxon word meaning “shiny.” Smelt are much appreciated for their fresh, clean aroma reminiscent of fresh-mowed grass or sliced cucumber. They are well-known in parts of France, especially Normandy, and are also found in the Baltic, around the British Isles, and the Bay of Biscay. In America, rainbow
smelt (O. mordax_) are most common. The larger and more oily Pacific or Columbia River smelt (Thleichthys pacificus), also called the eulachon, are popular. Larger smelts can be butterflied or filleted for broiling or grilling (using a wire fish cage). Smaller whole smelts are often dipped in batter and
deep-fried.
Locale and Season: Smelt catches are greatest in spring; they are also ice-fished in frozen lakes. They are usually sold fresh but may be found frozen. Pacific smelts are in season in
late winter and spring.
Characteristics: Smelt have lean, white flesh with fine, soft bones. Their cooked flesh is soft and very finely flaked. If
small enough, they may be eaten bones and all; if larger, the cooked meat easily flakes off the bones. The delicate skin is also eaten. Market average is 1 pound or less. Yield is 45 percent.
How to Choose: Smelt are quite delicate and highly perishable. Select smelt with bright eyes, shiny taut skin, a minimum of bruising or dents, and a fresh cucumber smell.
Storage: Store smelt up to 1 day refrigerated on ice.
Preparation:
1. Remove the heads and gut the fish. Rinse under cold
water and then pat dry.
2. Pan-fry, deep-fry, bake, broil, grill, or sauté.
Suggested Recipe: Dutch Smelt (serves 4): Cut 4 celery ribs into short sections, simmer in salted water until tender, drain, and keep warm. Boil 1 1/2 pounds gold potatoes until
cooked through but still firm, about 15 minutes. Cool, then slice and pan-fry in 4 tablespoons butter until browned, about 10 minutes. Reserve. Season 2 pounds cleaned, headed smelt with salt and pepper, then dust with flour. Pan-fry in 4 tablespoons oil over high heat until brown and crisp, about 8 minutes. Serve with the celery and potatoes.
Flavor Affinities: Almond, butter, celery, cucumber, daikon, dill, hot sauce, lemon, mustard, olive oil, paprika, potato, red
onion, shallot, thyme, vinegar, white wine.
from Quirk Books: www.quirkbooks.com
