Ingredients
Shad
Other Names: American shad: Alose savoureuse (French); poplarback shad; shyado (Japanese); white shad. European shad: Alaccia, alosa (Italian); alewife, allis shad (Great Britain); alosa, alse, maifisch (German); alose vraie (French); kepa, sardellomána (Greek); maisild (Dutch, Norwegian); sábalo commun, trisa (Spanish); sável (Portuguese); tirsi (Turkish). Clupeidae.
General Description: The American shad (Alosa sapidissima) is an important fish on the Atlantic coast resembling plump silver-green herring. Shad have sweet, delicate flesh and lots of small bones. A second set of bones perpendicular to the main skeleton makes it a challenge to fillet, and shad-boners get a premium rate. Shad roe is more sought after than the fish in America; in Europe, the opposite is true. According to the Micmac Indians, shad were originally
a discontented porcupine that asked the Great Spirit to change them into something else. The Spirit responded by turning them inside out and tossing them in the river.
European shad (A. alosa) are traditionally served cooked in or accompanied by sorrel sauce, which is supposed to dissolve the small bones.
Locale and Season: American shad range northward up the Atlantic coast from Florida to Labrador, starting in spring. On
the Pacific Coast, the fish work their way up the Columbia River from May to July. After spawning around the first of June, the fish are not good eating. European shad are rare in northern Europe but are common southward. Shad roe has a firm but delicate texture; the light-colored male milt is also eaten.
Characteristics: Shad usually weigh 3 to 5 pounds. The pale gray flesh is rich in flavor and soft in texture. Yield is 55 percent.
How to Choose: Shad fillets are found at upscale fish markets because of the cost of filleting. Look for moist, bright-orange shad roe, removed from the fish while you watch, if possible. Avoid eating shad roe more than once a
week, because it has a tendency to accumulate environmental contaminants. Smaller shad sold early in their season are more delicate in flavor; larger shad may be oily and mushy.
Storage: Store shad refrigerated on ice for up to 1 day before cooking.
Preparation:
Sauté, pan-fry, bake, or stuff and bake shad.
Shad roe is best pan-fried in butter or bacon fat.
Suggested Recipes: Pan-Fried Shad Roe (serves 4): Pull off the outer membrane and fat from 4 pairs of shad roe, leaving the roe sac intact. Fry 1/2 pound thin strips of bacon until crisp; set aside. Dust the roe sacs in flour, then pan-fry in bacon fat until just firm. Pour off any excess fat, then add 1 bunch sliced scallions to the pan; cook until just wilted, about 2 minutes. Add the juice of 1 lemon, 2 tablespoons butter, and salt and pepper to taste. Swirl to combine into a smooth sauce. Pour over roe and served with crisp bacon.
Broiled Shad with Herbs and Onion (serves 4): Season 2 pounds shad fillet with salt and pepper. Arrange skin-side up in a single layer on an oiled baking pan. Brush with a mixture of 1/4 cup melted butter, the juice of 1 lemon, 1/4 cup finely diced onion, 2 teaspoons paprika, and 2 teaspoons chopped fresh thyme, and broil 5 minutes. Turn carefully, brush again with the sauce, and broil 6 minutes longer, or until the fish flakes. Sprinkle with 2 tablespoons chopped parsley, spoon any pan juices and remaining sauce over top, and serve.
Flavor Affinities: Apple, apple cider, bacon, butter, celery, chervil, chive, cream, lemon, onion, paprika, parsley, potato,
scallion, shallot, sorrel, tarragon, thyme, white wine.
from Quirk Books: www.quirkbooks.com
