Ingredients

Mackerel

Other Names: Atlantic mackerel: Boston mackerel; caballa (Spanish); hirasaba, marusaba, saba (Japanese); makreel (Dutch); makrele (German); maquereau (French); ronnach (Irish); sarda (Portuguese); scombro (Italian); skumbriya (Russian); skoumbri (Greek); uskumru (Turkish). King mackerel: A‘u (Hawaiian); carite lucio (Spanish); kingfish; königsmakrele (German); maccarello reale (Italian); serra azul (Portuguese); taiseiyo saba (Japanese); thazard barré (French); vasilikó skoumbri (Greece). Spanish mackerel: Thazard (German); sierra (Spanish); maccarello reale maculato (Italian). Scombridae.

General Description: Though handsome, mackerel are often underrated, especially in America, because of their dark, full-bodied meat. Mackerel travel in large schools and are rich in beneficial omega-3 fatty acids. Atlantic mackerel (Scomber scombrus) is a highly migratory fish found in the icy waters of the Atlantic. Because mackerel spoil quickly, vendors in London were permitted as early as 1698 to sell them on Sundays, when all trade was otherwise prohibited. In Europe, mackerel is served with sharp fruit sauces. Hot-smoked mackerel is quite popular in Europe.

King mackerel (Scomberomorus cavalla_), the largest mackerel, are an important commercial and recreational fish. Spanish mackerel (_S. maculatus) are dark blue or blue-green on the back with orange or yellowish oval spots on the sides. Related species are sought after in Southeast Asia for curries, to which their firm, rich flesh is well suited.

Locale and Season: Atlantic mackerel range from the Mediterranean to Iceland and Norway and from Cape Hatteras to Labrador. King mackerel is a subtropical species found from North Carolina to Brazil. Spanish mackerel are
found from Cape Cod to Yucatan and Bermuda. Though caught year-round, mackerel are best in fall and early winter, when they have fattened up.

Characteristics: Atlantic mackerel are slender, slightly flattened from side to side, and covered with very small, hardly visible, loosely attached scales. The fish resemble their cousin the tuna but are much smaller, 1 1/2 to 2 1/2 pounds. King mackerel may weigh almost 100 pounds; Spanish mackerel weigh up to 12 pounds. Mackerel flesh is gray when raw but turns off-white when cooked. The flavor is assertive. The oily flesh spoils quickly, but the meat is firm and free of small bones. Mackerel are susceptible to scombroid poisoning if not stored or handled properly. The fish may be used for sushi and sashimi. Yield is 45 percent.

How to Choose: Mackerel is available fresh or frozen, whole, smoked, pickled, and salted, and can be filleted, butterfly filleted (cut through the belly with both sides attached at the back), or cut into chunks. It is most commonly found in Asian or other ethnic markets. Choose mackerel that are stiff and shiny with clear, protruding eyes and a clean, briny smell. Young mackerel weigh less than 1 pound and are more delicate; they are available in the spring.

Storage: Store fresh mackerel in the refrigerator up to 1 day before cooking.

Preparation:

1. Cut along either side of the dark, central blood line
and discard.

2. Marinate briefly in lime or other citrus juice or vinegar to whiten and firm the flesh before cooking.

3. Grill, barbecue, hot-smoke, broil, or roast.

Suggested Recipe: Spanish Mackerel Escabeche (serves 6): Rub 6 (1-inch-thick) Spanish mackerel steaks with olive oil
and season with salt and pepper. Grill or broil 10 minutes or until the fish is well browned on the outside. Cook 2 cups sliced onions in 4 tablespoons olive oil until soft. Stir in 1 tablespoon each curry powder and ground cumin, and cook briefly. Add 8 cloves thinly sliced garlic, 2 thinly sliced serrano chiles, 6 bay leaves, 1 1/2 cups sherry vinegar, 1 tablespoon dried oregano, 2 teaspoons turmeric, 2 whole cloves, 1 cinnamon stick, 1 teaspoon allspice berries, and salt
to taste. Bring to a simmer, then add the mackerel steaks and 2 cups diced red, yellow, and green bell peppers. Bake at 350°F for 20 minutes, turn the fish, and bake 10 minutes longer, until the fish flakes. Cool and refrigerate 2 days. Toss with lime juice, sliced scallions, and chopped parsley and serve at room temperature.

Flavor Affinities: Allspice, bay leaf, chiles, cinnamon, clove, cranberry, curry, garlic, gooseberry, lime, onion, regano, potato, red wine vinegar, rhubarb, sherry vinegar, thyme.

from Quirk Books: www.quirkbooks.com

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