Ingredients
John dory and oreo dory
Other Names: John Dory: Christópsaro (Greek); dülger baligi (Turkish); gallo, pez de San Pedro (Spanish); galo negro, peixe galo (Portuguese); kuznets (Russian); matôdai (Japanese); poule-de-mer, Saint Pierre (French); Saint Peter’s fish; Sanktpetersfisk (Danish). Oreo dory: Ôme-matodai-zoku (Japanese); samonete (Spanish); tiefsee Petersfisch (German). Zeidae.
General Description: John Dories (Zeus faber) are famed in many places as Saint Peter’s fish because of the prominent gold-ringed black spot that is the supposed mark of Saint Peter. They are the most prized and expensive member of their family and have rich-textured, firm, well-flavored flesh. They are an odd-looking, primitive, spinyfinned flatfish (not related to flounder) with a very small proportion of meat. One French name, poule de mer, means “chicken of the sea” (not the tuna).
American dories (Zenopsis ocellata) swim in the western Atlantic and are just as delicious as their European counterpart, but because they are not fished commercially, they are only occasionally found for sale. The similar, though unrelated, black oreo dory (Allocyttus niger) and the smooth oreo dory (Pseudocyttus maculatus) from New Zealand are occasionally found for sale in the United States. They are trawl-caught, both as targeted fish and as bycatch of the orange roughy fishery in New Zealand. The firm meat of oreo dory holds together in cooking, so it is a good choice for soups, chowders, and stews.
Locale and Season: John Dories are found in the Mediterranean and off the coast of Great Britain and the western coast of Africa. Oreo dories are found off the coasts of Australia, New Zealand, and South Africa. Although they are found year-round, supply is low in the summer.
Characteristics: John Dories weigh up to 15 pounds, but average size is much less. Market size for oreo dories is 1 to 2 pounds. The skin is not eaten. Yield for John Dory is 25 percent. The lean flesh of oreo dory easily dries out.
How to Choose: John Dory has smooth, silvery skin with a dark spot behind the pectoral fin. Black oreo dory has rough black skin; smooth oreo dory has brown skin and is more highly regarded. Because the fish are harvested far offshore, they are generally sold as skin-off frozen fillets, making it hard to tell the species apart.
Storage: Cook John Dory the same day it is purchased. Defrost oreo dory fillets overnight in the refrigerator and cook within 1 day.
Preparation:
Roast or bake a whole cleaned John Dory.
Pan-fry, steam, or sauté John Dory or oreo dory fillets or use in soups and stews.
Suggested Recipe: Pan-Fried John Dory (serves 4): Lightly beat 2 eggs and season with salt, pepper, and cayenne. Make fresh bread crumbs from crustless Italian bread and mix with finely chopped oregano. Dust 4 skinless fillets with flour, then dip in the egg, and then in the crumbs. Pan-fry in olive oil until crisp and brown on both sides. Drain and serve with lemon wedges.
Flavor Affinities: Avocado, basil, butter, cilantro, fennel, lemon, lobster, marjoram, olive oil, orange, oregano, Pernod, red onion, tarragon, thyme, tomato, white wine.
from Quirk Books: www.quirkbooks.com
