Top: Atlantic whiting. Bottom: Pacific whiting

General Description: Hake (Merluccius merluccius) is a deepwater member of the cod family. The fish have mild-tasting and sweet meat, with creamy flesh and a rather coarse, watery texture. Capensis, from South Africa, is the firmest type of hake, followed by Atlantic and Argentine hake. Atlantic whiting (M. bilinearis) are sold inexpensively in U.S. fish markets simply as whiting, often whole with their heads. In New England, they are salted like cod. Though there are subtle differences between hake and whiting, they are sold interchangeably and make a good, less expensive substitute for pollock or cod.

While both hake and whiting have a reputation for mushy texture, fresh and well-handled fish does not suffer from this. They are fairly bland fish that take well to all sorts of seasonings. They are often used for commercial fish sticks. White hake (Urophycis tennuis), also known as Boston ling or steakfish, is large hake that can weigh up to 30 pounds, though market weight is 1 to 2 pounds. Antarctic queen (_M. australis_), or New Zealand hake, has firmer flesh than other hake and mild flavor.

Locale and Season: Atlantic whiting from the northwest Atlantic are the most common species in the United States and are in season from October to December. Pacific whiting are found from the Bering Sea to Baja California. The United States also imports large quantities of Argentine whiting (M. hubbsi) and Chilean hake (_M. gayi)). Argentine hake is in season from November through February. Pacific whiting is in season in May and June. Cape capensis is in season year-round.

Characteristics: These fish range in size from small (1- to 2-pound) Pacific whiting to large (6-pound) capensis. Hakes and whiting have fragile white meat with small flake that is highly perishable, so much of the Pacific catch is immediately frozen.

How to Choose: Whiting are best in February and March, just before they spawn. There is a wide range of hake species, and because these fish are quite soft and fragile, there is a great deal of variation in quality from excellent to poor. Large whiting may be sold filleted.

Storage: Store hake and whiting up to 1 day refrigerated.

Preparation:
For fillets, pull out the pin bones and remove the skin, if desired. Or cut into steaks.
Bake, broil, deep-fry coated in bread crumbs or batter, sauté, or pan-fry.

Suggested Recipe: Spanish Hake with Spinach (serves 4): Wilt 1 1/2 pounds fresh spinach briefly, then squeeze out water and chop. Season 1 1/2 pounds whiting fillet with salt and pepper and then dust with flour. Fry in 2 tablespoons hot olive oil until brown on both sides. Remove fish to a plate. In the same pan, heat 2 tablespoons more olive oil, add 1 cup finely chopped onion, and cook over low heat 10 minutes, or until softened. Stir in 2 teaspoons chopped garlic, cook 1 minute, then add the spinach and salt and pepper, and toss together. Spoon the spinach mixture into a shallow baking dish and top with the fish. Sprinkle with 2 tablespoons pine nuts, 1/2 cup dry sherry, and 1 tablespoon olive oil. Bake at 375°F for 15 minutes, or until the fish flakes.

Flavor Affinities: Anchovy, balsamic vinegar, bay leaf, capers, cilantro, coriander, cumin, cured black olives, garlic, lemon, marjoram, mayonnaise, olive oil, orange, preserved lemon, thyme, tomato, white wine.