Ingredients
Cod
Other Names: Bacalao (Spanish); bakaliáros gádos (Greek); cabillaud, morue commune (French); dorsch, kabeljau (German); kabeljautorsk (Danish); madara, taiseiyo tara (Japanese); merluzzo bianco (Italian); morina (Turkish); torsk (Norwegian). Gadidae.
General Description: Three hundred years ago, Atlantic cod (Gadus morhua) was a hugely important, indeed essential, source of food. Historians theorize that the enormous stocks of cod in the western North Atlantic spurred European colonization of America. Fresh cod became the fish of choice in New England, while salted cod was
exported across the ocean. Today, Atlantic cod stocks
are much depleted.
Pacific cod (G. macrocephalus) are similar to Atlantic cod. While the two species are often sold interchangeably, Pacific cod are moister and not as firm. Cod have a mild flavor, so they take well to rich sauces and strong flavors and tastes. The cod family also includes cusk, grenadier, haddock, hake and whiting, pollock, and scrod. Much cod is processed and made into frozen foods such as fish sticks.
Locale and Season: Atlantic cod are fished from North Carolina to Greenland and are available year-round. Wild Atlantic cod are caught in late fall and early winter, transferred to net pens or sea cages, fed on a natural diet of fish, and kept for 3 to 4 months until they reach market size.
Pacific cod are found from California to Alaska and from northern Japan to Russia; they are in season from January 1 until quotas are reached.
Characteristics: Cod are brown or green-gray with dark brown mottling. Market average for Atlantic cod is 4 to 6 pounds; for Pacific cod it’s 5 to 15 pounds. Cod are mild in flavor, somewhat gelatinous, and lean. When cooked, their texture is moderately firm with large, moist flakes and delicate, sweet flavor. Cod cheeks have firm, dense, yet succulent meat, and the tongues are a delicacy. Yield is 30 to 40 percent.
How to Choose: Fresh whole cod can be recognized by the single barbel (whisker) jutting out of the chin and the clear
white lateral line that curves up toward the head. They may be purchased whole with head on or off, as skinless or skin-on fillets, as center-bone steaks, or they may be salted. Lesser-quality cod from New England is often treated with sodium tripolyphosphate to help it retain moisture. The quality of cod varies greatly depending on how well it has been handled. Excellent quality cod comes from longliners that
process and freeze the fish immediately upon harvest. Pacific cod may have been twice frozen, once when headed and gutted and a second time when filleted. Because Alaskan trawlers do not bleed their fish on board, their fish is usually not as white. Remove the skin before cooking to avoid parasites.
Preparation:
Bake, broil, fry, microwave, or add to soups, chowder,
and sauces.
Suggested Recipe: Braised Cod Cheeks (serves 4): Trim 8 cod cheeks, pat dry, and season with salt and pepper. Mix 2 eggs with 1 cup heavy cream, 1 tablespoon Dijon mustard, and 2 tablespoons each chopped dill and basil in a bowl and coat cheeks in the mix. Fry the cheeks in butter until brown, about 5 minutes per side. Remove from the pan and keep warm. Return the pan to the heat, pour in 1 cup fish stock and 1/4 cup Madeira, and boil until syrupy. Add 1/4 cup chopped leeks and the cheeks to the pan and simmer 5 minutes longer. Serve with boiled potatoes.
Flavor Affinities: Arugula, bacon, bay leaf, butter, capers, celery, celery root, cranberry beans, cream, dill, lemon, mustard, potato, salt pork, shallot, thyme, tomato, white wine.
from Quirk Books: www.quirkbooks.com
